http://www.intertexelectronics.com/Philmore-PC385-Potentiometer-1Meg-Audio-WSwitch-24mm-P8570.aspx

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: : : : : : : : : : : :Sir Pete . . . . . : : : Don't let a different shaft stop you, if that is the only choice otherwise. : : :REFERENCING: : : : :> > > http://www.nostalgiaair.org/forums/Messages/064/M0072064.htm < < < : : : : :73's de Edd : : : : : He who asks for your known information is a fool for but five minutes, but he who does not ask, remains a fool forever.. : : : : : : :

Sir Pete . . . . . Upon the inspection of the internal carbon resistance wafer, in seeing if its in that 1 meg value range. Additionally do this : Put your ohmmeter in the 10k-100 range(s) and touch one ohmmeter probe to the resiatance element, about 1/4 from one end and then drag the other probe towards the same END of that half of the deposited resistance path. You are then fully noting that the resistance will be increasing, up to that point where the OPEN shows up. Take mental reference that point. Move to the other half of the control and repeat the procedure. By then you, should know if there is an open circuit at BOTH ends . . . in the controls central area . . . or just at one end. If finding both ends open, that is usually where I find the manufacturer of that control using a clamped ring family of contact being used to establish interconnectivity of the end of the resistance element to its companion wiring terminal. And with time, it can then loosen up or else have the union developing a metallic chemical dissimilarity corrosiveness. If I find a loss of connectivity right up at that wiring terminal and the end of a resistance elements end, I will reconnect them. Two ways of doing that . . . . The monied persons manner is to go to the auto supply store and get the rear windshield defroster heater element repair "conductive paint". You then place a drop bridging the pots "open" area requiring the repair. The second way . . . .(Damn Yankee Ingenuity) Is the holistic procedure (* * *), wherein you use the white of an egg as a bonding agent. Microwave warmed hot water is minutely added to about an English pea sized amount of white of egg, and mixed until about milk consistency is attained. To the side, you bare the lead of a #2 or higher (mo' softer lead) . . .if available . . . pencil. (I use either 6's or 8's in working my complex crossword puzzles.) You then amass a pile of micro "graphite dust" with the use of some # 400 or finer Wet 'n Dry Silicon Carbide sand paper. The dust is then added and blended in with the adhesive, up to the point where you have a " medium tempera paint " consistency. One then uses it to paint on the interconnect. The instant ohmmic testing of the repair should have revealed your attaining in the decades or so of ohmmic continuity. Let the unit then fully air dry out a day or so. (Hot blow drying can result in shrinking and fissures.) After dry, a coating of clear fingernail polish or clear Testor dope wuldn't hurt longevity. (* * * ) Explanation . . . . No modern day adhesives wanted here . . . where they would tend to polmerically coat the particles along with being an insulative barrier. Thassitt . . . 73's de Edd He who asks for your known information is a fool for but five minutes, but he who does not ask, remains a fool forever..

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::Take the control apart and read the carbon disk. A one meg pot will most likely work fine in your radio. Philmore makes potentiometers that are used as replacements in a lot of vintage radios. The part number PC385 is an audio taper 1 meg with on-off switch. You may have to graft your original shaft to this one, if it’s not long enough.
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::http://www.intertexelectronics.com/Philmore-PC385-Potentiometer-1Meg-Audio-WSwitch-24mm-P8570.aspx
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