This dial cord is so frustrating it's not funny. It's a nightmare. The stringing diagram makes no sense whatsoever. Where the cord goes over and through the shaft of the station indicator drum shaft. It shows dial cord going in the hole through the shaft but never going through? Does a loop go in there. Any attempt to wind dial cord in that shaft falls right off. It makes no sense. Does anyone have a better stringing diagram? This is extremely frustrating.
All I know is that when the dial cord is on correctly the 5 and 1/2 turns around the tuning shaft holds it and the knob in place.
I understand how the dial cord enters and exists the wheel on the tuning coils too. But on that shaft with a hole in it, it makes absolutely no sense.
Please explain it to me. I think I can get it right if I understand it.
Thanks,
Dave
It's number 109 in this dial stringing guide:
http://www.theoldradiofixerupperguy.com/pdf/DS104_156.pdf
It's odd looking but if someone understands it, please explain it to me. Once it makes sense, I think I can get the cord on correctly.
Maybe if someone adds some color to the cord it will also make more sense. I see a loop that the cord goes through. This is a very frustrating cord. So far I don't get it. Please help.
Thanks,
Dave
:Hello All,
: This dial cord is so frustrating it's not funny. It's a nightmare. The stringing diagram makes no sense whatsoever. Where the cord goes over and through the shaft of the station indicator drum shaft. It shows dial cord going in the hole through the shaft but never going through? Does a loop go in there. Any attempt to wind dial cord in that shaft falls right off. It makes no sense. Does anyone have a better stringing diagram? This is extremely frustrating.
: All I know is that when the dial cord is on correctly the 5 and 1/2 turns around the tuning shaft holds it and the knob in place.
: I understand how the dial cord enters and exists the wheel on the tuning coils too. But on that shaft with a hole in it, it makes absolutely no sense.
: Please explain it to me. I think I can get it right if I understand it.
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:Thanks,
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:Dave
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That might make it easier to get it to stay on the "Tuner Drum" while trying to wrap the 5 and 1/2 turns on the tuning shaft. How long should the cord be? I always get the length wrong and it takes several tries to get it right. Putting on a dial cord is always an exercise in total frustration.
Thanks,
Dave
:I am looking at the dial cord diagram 109. It looks you make a loop in the cord. That loop passes though the hole. A turn on each side of the shaft, and then the cord goes though the loop hole. This would make the cord self holding to the shaft.
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I have tried it several times exactly the way it shows on the diagram and have spent several hours on it, and it does not work. I can turn it using the wheel on the tuning coils but the tuning shaft slips. There is no way it can move the tuning coils or dial drum. When I try to tighten it up just the slightest little bit, the dial cord snaps. This is way way way way way too frustrating. I don't think I can ever get this one on. I give up.
Thanks,
Dave
:When re-stringing a dial cord, there is really no known length to it. Always start with more than you need. Then cut off the excess when you get it right. Sometimes you can experiment with fishing line or a good string until you figure it out. Then use real dial cord after that.
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Steve
Refer to the photos supplied at the bottom: Now there are . . .TWEE . . . . count 'em . . . wun-tew-twee . . . holes around that tensioning springs [ P ] insertion area marked up as A. Now go get your lasso ( dial cord ) in hand and jump on and RIDE THAT THANG ! . . . . just as in the Jack in the Box commercial: |
Car Radio Dial Cord Restringing:  |
:I have the Sams on your radio. The dial cord drive is shown. I took a picture of it and will send it to you. Hope this helps.
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The dial numbers and the pulley on the tuning coils rotate in opposite directions. The way you have diagrammed it, I can visualize it a little better but I still have trouble understanding where the cord goes through the hole. I think I'll figure it out now. I will abandon both ends tied to the spring and tie one end to the pulley. If I'll let you know if I get the cord on, or I have more trouble.
Thanks Very Much,
Dave
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:Sir Dave . . . . .
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:Alllllll right stand back . . . . . . waaaaay back . . . . and hold on real tight . . . . here we go . . ..
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:Refer to the photos supplied at the bottom:
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:First off, we HAVE gripped the steel spindle [ I ] and then grasped the old yellowed thunmb wheel knob [ II ] which encircles it and initially confirmed that the two ARE solidly affixed to each other and do not slip and rotate ?
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:Thats my [ I ] and [ II ] on the mark up of the pair of Photo 2 .
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:The press on tinnerman nut on the end of the shaft, shown in Photos 1 and 3 holds the lateral shifting of the pair, with the locking of the pair being accomplished with either a flat(s) on the shaft or linear milled splines .
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:If there IS rotational slippage I personally would just drill 2 1/16 in holes thru as shown by the red dots and " pin " the two pieces with either cut off end pieces of that drill bit . . . with a Dremel tool cut off wheel . . . or small metal brads / nails segments.
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:Also the tuning treadle does need to slide as freely back and forth as is possible, in considering the ease of the push button as well as the manual tuning aspect.
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:Heavier gauge dial cord seems to be in order here on this particular situatons mechanics.
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:Now there are . . .TWEE . . . . count 'em . . . wun-tew-twee . . . holes around that tensioning springs [ P ] insertion area marked up as A.
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:It would be MUCH easier if you abandoned that " tie both ends of the dial cord to the other end of that spring " and be one "mell of a lot heasier" on you, if you were merely to start with the top two holes and initially pass the dial cord thru them two times and then tie a knot (or a hollow rivet crimp) to tie off that end . . . . . as per the A-B depiction .
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:(That is what the illustration at the VEWY-VEWY bottom of the page is showing)
:Then, after tieing down, you pass the free dial cord end thru the centered hole at the left of the pulley ( no easy open slot access today . . . fuh . .fuh . .folks ) and then you route it up and over the top of the tuning drum pulley.
:This has been the [ RED ] dial cord run of A-B-C-D-E. Now, at F you start your wraps around the tuning shaft, and the sum length of the cord used in those turns will need to be a bit more than 1/2 of the circumference of the tuning pulley. You say:
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:" I understand 5 turns on the tuning shaft. "
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:from your Sams referencing.
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:That will then get you down from F to G at G where I start using numerical sequence, there you have the end of the applied turns as 1 and then you pull up the cord thru the hole to emerge as 2 and then route the cord to the left and down and around the shaft again to be inserted again and come up and emerge out as 4.
:That gave you an extra loop of friction surface area and you could then go across to 5 and go down and under the shaft to come
:out as 6 and finish the turns needed from H-prime, on down to J.
:Now, ANOTHER OPTION is to have that dial cord just emerging as 4 and swing it laterally over to the RED 4 position and across the shaft as shown by the dotted FUCHSIA path and go down the right side of the shaft and go into the bottom hole again and come up and emerge as being in the BLACK 4 position and then go to the left and end up in the BLACK 5 position and then go down around and under and emerge as the Black or RED 6 -prime position and complete your turns up to J.
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:That last option . . . . . well known in the physics fraternity as:> " the Fuchsia option ", has a half life longevity factor of 50 years.
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:And then the BLUE J-K-L-M dial cord run is completed and you pass the dial cord thru the pulley hole at N and loop thru P spring at O end and tension out at about 50% and then make multiple cord loops thru the O end of the spring and do a temporary clamping action with an alligator clip . . . . . so it all doesn't go . . . . s---p---r---o---o---o---i---n---g . . . . . and come loose.
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:Then that will permit you to do a dry run testing of the stringing and make any corrections, if required, before an o-fish-ul tiedown . . . (OR another total restring ! ! ! ).
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:Now considering that the dial scale layout is conventional 550 left to 1750 right arrangement, it would be desirable for the upward rotation of the thumb tuning knob to cause the dial pointer to move upscale to the right .
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:That was initially determined by the installed directon of rotation of the dial cord around the tuning knob shaft.
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:Now, without my turning that main pulley to see whether the inductors treadle causes an increase or decline of their inductance with a CW ? CCW? turn of the pulley . . . I can't fully ascertain at this end . . . . but you can . . . . and I'll bet I'm still 50% correct !
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:Now go get your lasso ( dial cord ) in hand and jump on and RIDE THAT THANG ! . . . . just as in the Jack in the Box commercial:
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:Thassitt . . . . .
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:Pee Ess:
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:( You might have to click on the photos to mag on up . . . . they be JAY _PEGG's . . . 'cause they were so density massive)
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:73's de Edd
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: Car Radio Dial Cord Restringing:
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::I have the Sams on your radio. The dial cord drive is shown. I took a picture of it and will send it to you. Hope this helps.
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