I repaired a old Plymouth car radio, I put in all new capacitors, and installed a new solid state vibrator, it ran fine for a year and suddenly failed, I found the vibrator burned out, I installed a old mechnaical type, it ran for 5 minutes and the 7Y4 rectifier tube burned out. I replaced the tube with 2 diodes. Could the tube have caused the vibrator to fail? Also with the diodes in place of the tubes the B+ runs higher that spec. 25% higher, would that be a problem? It runs just fine so far, I intend to put in a new solid state vibrator before I install it in the car. Any thoughts? Thanks, Ralph.

:I repaired a old Plymouth car radio, I put in all new capacitors, and installed a new solid state vibrator, it ran fine for a year and suddenly failed, I found the vibrator burned out, I installed a old mechnaical type, it ran for 5 minutes and the 7Y4 rectifier tube burned out. I replaced the tube with 2 diodes. Could the tube have caused the vibrator to fail? Also with the diodes in place of the tubes the B+ runs higher that spec. 25% higher, would that be a problem? It runs just fine so far, I intend to put in a new solid state vibrator before I install it in the car. Any thoughts? Thanks, Ralph.
:
Ralph,
Did you check C100 & C101 for shorts after the vibrator went bad per comment on tests of section 1:
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/959/M0013959.pdf
Carl T

Hi Ralph,
An H-K short in the 7Y4 could cause this problem, however, don't counton it. Carl's advice is good, to look first at C100 and C101. However, you may have a short elsewhere. I recommend that you check for shorts before connecting to power agiain, starting with C100 and C101. If they test as good ohm out the B+ to ground on the radio. That should show several K ohms to ground at minimum.

Best Regards,

Bill Grimm

I tested out c 100, all 3 sections, and C101 with a Sparage Capacitor testor, I will try ohming out the B+ line, thanks for the sugestion:Hi Ralph,
: An H-K short in the 7Y4 could cause this problem, however, don't counton it. Carl's advice is good, to look first at C100 and C101. However, you may have a short elsewhere. I recommend that you check for shorts before connecting to power agiain, starting with C100 and C101. If they test as good ohm out the B+ to ground on the radio. That should show several K ohms to ground at minimum.
:
:Best Regards,
:
:Bill Grimm
:

Ralph,
I've recently done 2 of these Mopar 802, and in both cases restored the orig vibrators. I've been told by all the old timers that replacing C101 is a must for every new vibrator, which I did, even tho it measured good on a low voltage cap tester. Also opened and re-stuffed C100 because of age only, before any measurements on it. If a battery replacement occurred after SS vibrator, and radio happened to be on, then reverse polarity (negative ground) was used briefly, that could have destroyed the SS vibrator. I've been told this happens quite frequently with servicemen unfamiliar with the positive ground system on these old Mopars. The second one I did last mo. had an offbeat power xformer replacement (bad), but didn't blow fuses, rectifier or vibrator. I replaced with an original model. After opening vibrator can, and filing the tits off the points, it came up running at spec of 115 cps throughout all further alignment and testing. You'll probably need a dropping resistor in series with the SS recifier. All my voltages ran about 10% below call out on drawing, so don't be alarmed.

marv

:I repaired a old Plymouth car radio, I put in all new capacitors, and installed a new solid state vibrator, it ran fine for a year and suddenly failed, I found the vibrator burned out, I installed a old mechnaical type, it ran for 5 minutes and the 7Y4 rectifier tube burned out. I replaced the tube with 2 diodes. Could the tube have caused the vibrator to fail? Also with the diodes in place of the tubes the B+ runs higher that spec. 25% higher, would that be a problem? It runs just fine so far, I intend to put in a new solid state vibrator before I install it in the car. Any thoughts? Thanks, Ralph.
:

:Ralph,
:I've recently done 2 of these Mopar 802, and in both cases restored the orig vibrators. I've been told by all the old timers that replacing C101 is a must for every new vibrator, which I did, even tho it measured good on a low voltage cap tester. Also opened and re-stuffed C100 because of age only, before any measurements on it. If a battery replacement occurred after SS vibrator, and radio happened to be on, then reverse polarity (negative ground) was used briefly, that could have destroyed the SS vibrator. I've been told this happens quite frequently with servicemen unfamiliar with the positive ground system on these old Mopars. The second one I did last mo. had an offbeat power xformer replacement (bad), but didn't blow fuses, rectifier or vibrator. I replaced with an original model. After opening vibrator can, and filing the tits off the points, it came up running at spec of 115 cps throughout all further alignment and testing. You'll probably need a dropping resistor in series with the SS recifier. All my voltages ran about 10% below call out on drawing, so don't be alarmed.
:
:marv
:
::I repaired a old Plymouth car radio, I put in all new capacitors, and installed a new solid state vibrator, it ran fine for a year and suddenly failed, I found the vibrator burned out, I installed a old mechnaical type, it ran for 5 minutes and the 7Y4 rectifier tube burned out. I replaced the tube with 2 diodes. Could the tube have caused the vibrator to fail? Also with the diodes in place of the tubes the B+ runs higher that spec. 25% higher, would that be a problem? It runs just fine so far, I intend to put in a new solid state vibrator before I install it in the car. Any thoughts? Thanks, Ralph.
::Marv, I found my problem, this radio has a 4 hole socket mounted on the bottom of the set,One of the sockets is hooked to the B+ line another one is hooked to the 6 volt supply in. The other 2 are shorted together. On my set the B+ line at the socket sparked when I switched it on, that must have taken out the solid state vibrator. I removed both of the wires to the socket. What was this socket used for?
:
:

Ralph,
I'm a little confused about your post. Of course there is a 4 pin socket installed on the chassis. That's where the vibrator plugs in. Either electro-mechanical or solid state types. I found no other 4 pin sockets. Have good .jpgs of chassis bottom (as wired) if you contact my email.

marv

::Ralph,
::I've recently done 2 of these Mopar 802, and in both cases restored the orig vibrators. I've been told by all the old timers that replacing C101 is a must for every new vibrator, which I did, even tho it measured good on a low voltage cap tester. Also opened and re-stuffed C100 because of age only, before any measurements on it. If a battery replacement occurred after SS vibrator, and radio happened to be on, then reverse polarity (negative ground) was used briefly, that could have destroyed the SS vibrator. I've been told this happens quite frequently with servicemen unfamiliar with the positive ground system on these old Mopars. The second one I did last mo. had an offbeat power xformer replacement (bad), but didn't blow fuses, rectifier or vibrator. I replaced with an original model. After opening vibrator can, and filing the tits off the points, it came up running at spec of 115 cps throughout all further alignment and testing. You'll probably need a dropping resistor in series with the SS recifier. All my voltages ran about 10% below call out on drawing, so don't be alarmed.
::
::marv
::
:::I repaired a old Plymouth car radio, I put in all new capacitors, and installed a new solid state vibrator, it ran fine for a year and suddenly failed, I found the vibrator burned out, I installed a old mechnaical type, it ran for 5 minutes and the 7Y4 rectifier tube burned out. I replaced the tube with 2 diodes. Could the tube have caused the vibrator to fail? Also with the diodes in place of the tubes the B+ runs higher that spec. 25% higher, would that be a problem? It runs just fine so far, I intend to put in a new solid state vibrator before I install it in the car. Any thoughts? Thanks, Ralph.
:::Marv, I found my problem, this radio has a 4 hole socket mounted on the bottom of the set,One of the sockets is hooked to the B+ line another one is hooked to the 6 volt supply in. The other 2 are shorted together. On my set the B+ line at the socket sparked when I switched it on, that must have taken out the solid state vibrator. I removed both of the wires to the socket. What was this socket used for?
::
::
:
:

:Ralph,
:I'm a little confused about your post. Of course there is a 4 pin socket installed on the chassis. That's where the vibrator plugs in. Either electro-mechanical or solid state types. I found no other 4 pin sockets. Have good .jpgs of chassis bottom (as wired) if you contact my email.
:
:marv
:
:::Ralph,
:::I've recently done 2 of these Mopar 802, and in both cases restored the orig vibrators. I've been told by all the old timers that replacing C101 is a must for every new vibrator, which I did, even tho it measured good on a low voltage cap tester. Also opened and re-stuffed C100 because of age only, before any measurements on it. If a battery replacement occurred after SS vibrator, and radio happened to be on, then reverse polarity (negative ground) was used briefly, that could have destroyed the SS vibrator. I've been told this happens quite frequently with servicemen unfamiliar with the positive ground system on these old Mopars. The second one I did last mo. had an offbeat power xformer replacement (bad), but didn't blow fuses, rectifier or vibrator. I replaced with an original model. After opening vibrator can, and filing the tits off the points, it came up running at spec of 115 cps throughout all further alignment and testing. You'll probably need a dropping resistor in series with the SS recifier. All my voltages ran about 10% below call out on drawing, so don't be alarmed.
:::
:::marv
:::
::::I repaired a old Plymouth car radio, I put in all new capacitors, and installed a new solid state vibrator, it ran fine for a year and suddenly failed, I found the vibrator burned out, I installed a old mechnaical type, it ran for 5 minutes and the 7Y4 rectifier tube burned out. I replaced the tube with 2 diodes. Could the tube have caused the vibrator to fail? Also with the diodes in place of the tubes the B+ runs higher that spec. 25% higher, would that be a problem? It runs just fine so far, I intend to put in a new solid state vibrator before I install it in the car. Any thoughts? Thanks, Ralph.
::::Marv, I found my problem, this radio has a 4 hole socket mounted on the bottom of the set,One of the sockets is hooked to the B+ line another one is hooked to the 6 volt supply in. The other 2 are shorted together. On my set the B+ line at the socket sparked when I switched it on, that must have taken out the solid state vibrator. I removed both of the wires to the socket. What was this socket used for?
:::
:::Marv, the socket is on the bottom of the radio as it sets in the car, it is below the vibrator socket, I am sure it is a factory deal. Looks to be some sort of a way to add a booster amp, has any one ever seen any thing like this for a old Mopar radio? If you give me your e-mail adress I will look up your pictures, thanks ,Ralph.
::
::
:
:

Ralph,
Just clik on my name and email will pop up. My pix won't help tho, because that xtra socket is obviously a modification. Maybe someone tried to install a PM speaker, and used that xtra port for a choke to replace orig field coil.

marv

::Ralph,
::I'm a little confused about your post. Of course there is a 4 pin socket installed on the chassis. That's where the vibrator plugs in. Either electro-mechanical or solid state types. I found no other 4 pin sockets. Have good .jpgs of chassis bottom (as wired) if you contact my email.
::
::marv
::
::::Ralph,
::::I've recently done 2 of these Mopar 802, and in both cases restored the orig vibrators. I've been told by all the old timers that replacing C101 is a must for every new vibrator, which I did, even tho it measured good on a low voltage cap tester. Also opened and re-stuffed C100 because of age only, before any measurements on it. If a battery replacement occurred after SS vibrator, and radio happened to be on, then reverse polarity (negative ground) was used briefly, that could have destroyed the SS vibrator. I've been told this happens quite frequently with servicemen unfamiliar with the positive ground system on these old Mopars. The second one I did last mo. had an offbeat power xformer replacement (bad), but didn't blow fuses, rectifier or vibrator. I replaced with an original model. After opening vibrator can, and filing the tits off the points, it came up running at spec of 115 cps throughout all further alignment and testing. You'll probably need a dropping resistor in series with the SS recifier. All my voltages ran about 10% below call out on drawing, so don't be alarmed.
::::
::::marv
::::
:::::I repaired a old Plymouth car radio, I put in all new capacitors, and installed a new solid state vibrator, it ran fine for a year and suddenly failed, I found the vibrator burned out, I installed a old mechnaical type, it ran for 5 minutes and the 7Y4 rectifier tube burned out. I replaced the tube with 2 diodes. Could the tube have caused the vibrator to fail? Also with the diodes in place of the tubes the B+ runs higher that spec. 25% higher, would that be a problem? It runs just fine so far, I intend to put in a new solid state vibrator before I install it in the car. Any thoughts? Thanks, Ralph.
:::::Marv, I found my problem, this radio has a 4 hole socket mounted on the bottom of the set,One of the sockets is hooked to the B+ line another one is hooked to the 6 volt supply in. The other 2 are shorted together. On my set the B+ line at the socket sparked when I switched it on, that must have taken out the solid state vibrator. I removed both of the wires to the socket. What was this socket used for?
::::
::::Marv, the socket is on the bottom of the radio as it sets in the car, it is below the vibrator socket, I am sure it is a factory deal. Looks to be some sort of a way to add a booster amp, has any one ever seen any thing like this for a old Mopar radio? If you give me your e-mail adress I will look up your pictures, thanks ,Ralph.
:::
:::
::
::
:
:

Ralph,
You may have a set that was meant for export. I have not seen a Chrysler with a plug for the short wave converter, but Philco did make S-W converters for auto radios so that may be a possibility. I have seen Ford radios with a plug as you describe, meant for the S-W converter. An earlier Chrysler radio (Philco C-1808) has a 4-pin plug like you describe: 6 volts, B+, and a jumper between 2 pins; they label it as a “test socket”. I have a Philco dealer service sheet (circa 1940) that mentions a test plug on some Ford radios to facilitate testing at the Ford plant.
Meade

:Ralph,
:Just clik on my name and email will pop up. My pix won't help tho, because that xtra socket is obviously a modification. Maybe someone tried to install a PM speaker, and used that xtra port for a choke to replace orig field coil.
:
:marv
:
:::Ralph,
:::I'm a little confused about your post. Of course there is a 4 pin socket installed on the chassis. That's where the vibrator plugs in. Either electro-mechanical or solid state types. I found no other 4 pin sockets. Have good .jpgs of chassis bottom (as wired) if you contact my email.
:::
:::marv
:::
:::::Ralph,
:::::I've recently done 2 of these Mopar 802, and in both cases restored the orig vibrators. I've been told by all the old timers that replacing C101 is a must for every new vibrator, which I did, even tho it measured good on a low voltage cap tester. Also opened and re-stuffed C100 because of age only, before any measurements on it. If a battery replacement occurred after SS vibrator, and radio happened to be on, then reverse polarity (negative ground) was used briefly, that could have destroyed the SS vibrator. I've been told this happens quite frequently with servicemen unfamiliar with the positive ground system on these old Mopars. The second one I did last mo. had an offbeat power xformer replacement (bad), but didn't blow fuses, rectifier or vibrator. I replaced with an original model. After opening vibrator can, and filing the tits off the points, it came up running at spec of 115 cps throughout all further alignment and testing. You'll probably need a dropping resistor in series with the SS recifier. All my voltages ran about 10% below call out on drawing, so don't be alarmed.
:::::
:::::marv
:::::
::::::I repaired a old Plymouth car radio, I put in all new capacitors, and installed a new solid state vibrator, it ran fine for a year and suddenly failed, I found the vibrator burned out, I installed a old mechnaical type, it ran for 5 minutes and the 7Y4 rectifier tube burned out. I replaced the tube with 2 diodes. Could the tube have caused the vibrator to fail? Also with the diodes in place of the tubes the B+ runs higher that spec. 25% higher, would that be a problem? It runs just fine so far, I intend to put in a new solid state vibrator before I install it in the car. Any thoughts? Thanks, Ralph.
::::::Marv, I found my problem, this radio has a 4 hole socket mounted on the bottom of the set,One of the sockets is hooked to the B+ line another one is hooked to the 6 volt supply in. The other 2 are shorted together. On my set the B+ line at the socket sparked when I switched it on, that must have taken out the solid state vibrator. I removed both of the wires to the socket. What was this socket used for?
:::::
:::::Marv, the socket is on the bottom of the radio as it sets in the car, it is below the vibrator socket, I am sure it is a factory deal. Looks to be some sort of a way to add a booster amp, has any one ever seen any thing like this for a old Mopar radio? If you give me your e-mail adress I will look up your pictures, thanks ,Ralph.
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