Edd-need advice again
9/7/2011 2:14:38 PMfrank(97213:0)
Well I've had the sx-88 back from restoration less than a week and she started this static crashing noise on all bands 2 days ago and now this morning when I was switching bands they all went out of sync!Now the bands are everywhere they shouldn't be-what happened here guys? Is this hopefully an easy fix? The bands it seems are still in the proper order but are indicating 3 bands above where they should be on the dial
9/7/2011 3:06:49 PMfrank(97214:97213)
:Well I've had the sx-88 back from restoration less than a week and she started this static crashing noise on all bands 2 days ago and now this morning when I was switching bands they all went out of sync!Now the bands are everywhere they shouldn't be-what happened here guys? Is this hopefully an easy fix? The bands it seems are still in the proper order but are indicating 3 bands above where they should be on the dial
:
I'm looking at the indicator belt and wondering if it's not just a matter of taking the belt off the drivesaft wheel and then switching the banswitch down three?
:
I'm looking at the indicator belt and wondering if it's not just a matter of taking the belt off the drivesaft wheel and then switching the banswitch down three?
9/7/2011 3:12:36 PMWarren(97215:97214)
I would bet the problem is the silver mica problem inside the IF cans. This does cause the crashing sound, and the alignment way off. See this link about the repair of the IF cans.
http://oldradio.ca/radio/Tech/IFmica/IFmica.html
I have run into this a lot lately.
9/7/2011 5:54:51 PMfrank(97218:97215)
:I would bet the problem is the silver mica problem inside the IF cans. This does cause the crashing sound, and the alignment way off. See this link about the repair of the IF cans.
:
:http://oldradio.ca/radio/Tech/IFmica/IFmica.html
:
:I have run into this a lot lately.
:
Warren thank you for your reply-I have saved that to copy. If it is an offending can I hope it is easy to remedy. Anyone have any ideas about the bandswitch indicator problem?
:
:http://oldradio.ca/radio/Tech/IFmica/IFmica.html
:
:I have run into this a lot lately.
:
Warren thank you for your reply-I have saved that to copy. If it is an offending can I hope it is easy to remedy. Anyone have any ideas about the bandswitch indicator problem?
9/7/2011 7:11:30 PMBill G.(97221:97218)
::I would bet the problem is the silver mica problem inside the IF cans. This does cause the crashing sound, and the alignment way off. See this link about the repair of the IF cans.
::
::http://oldradio.ca/radio/Tech/IFmica/IFmica.html
::
::I have run into this a lot lately.
::
:Warren thank you for your reply-I have saved that to copy. If it is an offending can I hope it is easy to remedy. Anyone have any ideas about the bandswitch indicator problem?
:
I am not familiar with this radio, but slipping tunig dials and dirty band switches are common problems.
::
::http://oldradio.ca/radio/Tech/IFmica/IFmica.html
::
::I have run into this a lot lately.
::
:Warren thank you for your reply-I have saved that to copy. If it is an offending can I hope it is easy to remedy. Anyone have any ideas about the bandswitch indicator problem?
:
I am not familiar with this radio, but slipping tunig dials and dirty band switches are common problems.
These are mechanical in nature. Slippage is something you can sometimes see. For dirty band switch "Tuner Tonic" or contact cleaner is the remede of choice.
Often silver mica acts like a dirty band switch. Radios built before WWII are rarely afflicted with it. Also, any IF can with screw adjustmend, rather than slug adjustment is not affected by Silver Mica.
Try cleaning on the band switch and fixing any mechanical slippage. If the problem persists, then we can talk about silver mica.
All the Best,
Bill Grimm
9/7/2011 10:56:52 PMfrank(97225:97221)
:::I would bet the problem is the silver mica problem inside the IF cans. This does cause the crashing sound, and the alignment way off. See this link about the repair of the IF cans.
:::
:::http://oldradio.ca/radio/Tech/IFmica/IFmica.html
:::
:::I have run into this a lot lately.
:::
::Warren thank you for your reply-I have saved that to copy. If it is an offending can I hope it is easy to remedy. Anyone have any ideas about the bandswitch indicator problem?
::
:I am not familiar with this radio, but slipping tunig dials and dirty band switches are common problems.
:
:These are mechanical in nature. Slippage is something you can sometimes see. For dirty band switch "Tuner Tonic" or contact cleaner is the remede of choice.
:
:Often silver mica acts like a dirty band switch. Radios built before WWII are rarely afflicted with it. Also, any IF can with screw adjustmend, rather than slug adjustment is not affected by Silver Mica.
:
:Try cleaning on the band switch and fixing any mechanical slippage. If the problem persists, then we can talk about silver mica.
:
:All the Best,
:
:Bill Grimm
:
Thank you Bill I appreciate the direction and the good wish too-I do hope it's something rather mild-she's completely gone-over and running so well till these two bugs hit. I just know she wants to live. Had her for over 23 years now and she's part of the family.
:::
:::http://oldradio.ca/radio/Tech/IFmica/IFmica.html
:::
:::I have run into this a lot lately.
:::
::Warren thank you for your reply-I have saved that to copy. If it is an offending can I hope it is easy to remedy. Anyone have any ideas about the bandswitch indicator problem?
::
:I am not familiar with this radio, but slipping tunig dials and dirty band switches are common problems.
:
:These are mechanical in nature. Slippage is something you can sometimes see. For dirty band switch "Tuner Tonic" or contact cleaner is the remede of choice.
:
:Often silver mica acts like a dirty band switch. Radios built before WWII are rarely afflicted with it. Also, any IF can with screw adjustmend, rather than slug adjustment is not affected by Silver Mica.
:
:Try cleaning on the band switch and fixing any mechanical slippage. If the problem persists, then we can talk about silver mica.
:
:All the Best,
:
:Bill Grimm
:
Thank you Bill I appreciate the direction and the good wish too-I do hope it's something rather mild-she's completely gone-over and running so well till these two bugs hit. I just know she wants to live. Had her for over 23 years now and she's part of the family.
9/8/2011 12:35:59 AMEdd(97227:97225)
If an IF transformer is crashing . . . . I am more in suspect of the units 1.550 and 2.075 Khz Intermediate Frequency transformers. |
::
::::I would bet the problem is the silver mica problem inside the IF cans. This does cause the crashing sound, and the alignment way off. See this link about the repair of the IF cans.
::::
::::http://oldradio.ca/radio/Tech/IFmica/IFmica.html
::::
::::I have run into this a lot lately.
::::
:::Warren thank you for your reply-I have saved that to copy. If it is an offending can I hope it is easy to remedy. Anyone have any ideas about the bandswitch indicator problem?
:::
::I am not familiar with this radio, but slipping tunig dials and dirty band switches are common problems.
::
::These are mechanical in nature. Slippage is something you can sometimes see. For dirty band switch "Tuner Tonic" or contact cleaner is the remede of choice.
::
::Often silver mica acts like a dirty band switch. Radios built before WWII are rarely afflicted with it. Also, any IF can with screw adjustmend, rather than slug adjustment is not affected by Silver Mica.
::
::Try cleaning on the band switch and fixing any mechanical slippage. If the problem persists, then we can talk about silver mica.
::
::All the Best,
::
::Bill Grimm
:Thank you Bill I appreciate the direction and the good wish too-I do hope it's something rather mild-she's completely gone-over and running so well till these two bugs hit. I just know she wants to live. Had her for over 23 years now and she's part of the family.
:
9/8/2011 11:19:06 AMfrank(97231:97227)
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:Hey Edd thanks for your help again!! I will do these tests you have put here and standing by for more info.
Frank
:::::I would bet the problem is the silver mica problem inside the IF cans. This does cause the crashing sound, and the alignment way off. See this link about the repair of the IF cans.
:::::
:::::http://oldradio.ca/radio/Tech/IFmica/IFmica.html
:::::
:::::I have run into this a lot lately.
:::::
:
:
:
:
::::Warren thank you for your reply-I have saved that to copy. If it is an offending can I hope it is easy to remedy. Anyone have any ideas about the bandswitch indicator problem?
::::
:::I am not familiar with this radio, but slipping tunig dials and dirty band switches are common problems.
:::
:::These are mechanical in nature. Slippage is something you can sometimes see. For dirty band switch "Tuner Tonic" or contact cleaner is the remede of choice.
:::
:::Often silver mica acts like a dirty band switch. Radios built before WWII are rarely afflicted with it. Also, any IF can with screw adjustmend, rather than slug adjustment is not affected by Silver Mica.
:::
:::Try cleaning on the band switch and fixing any mechanical slippage. If the problem persists, then we can talk about silver mica.
:::
:::All the Best,
:::
:::Bill Grimm
:
:
:
:::
::Thank you Bill I appreciate the direction and the good wish too-I do hope it's something rather mild-she's completely gone-over and running so well till these two bugs hit. I just know she wants to live. Had her for over 23 years now and she's part of the family.
::
:
:
:
: : : :  : : : : : : : :Sir Frank. . . . . : : :VOT ! ve are no longer beingks ables to be listeninks to der RUSSKIES shortly waving musiks vit der not quite so Sexy-88 . . . now ? : : :Initially if that "crashing" is repetetive and frequent enough . . . does it seem to be having any difference as to whether the set is cold or "HOT" ? : : :Initially start by multi-tapping on the naked sides of all of the RF / IF / AF tubes about as hard as if you were cracking an egg. : : :Any popping show up ? :Well then, lets sequentially work forward from the unsuspect 6AL5 detector of the set and just unplug a tube and and wait for the presence of crashes. :Start with un-ker-plugging 3rd I.F. V8 . . . . and, if it doesn't still crash, plug it back in and move forward in the frontal RF sequencing to: :then V7 :then V6 :then V4 :then V3 :When the pulling of a tube still results in crashes, its sort of indicative of the problem area being associated with the prior tube that had been pulled. : : :Get that ? then . . . speaking into your other ear . . . Example: : : :Set Crashes with V8 plugged in---> unplug V8 . . . .no crashes---> then plug V8 back in . . .still crashes---> : : :unplug V7. . . .no crashes---> then plug V7 back in . . .still crashes ---> : : :unplug V6 . . . . now HAS crashes---> then prior circuitry between V6---V7 is suspect. : : : :If an IF transformer is crashing . . . . I am more in suspect of the units 1.550 and 2.075 Khz Intermediate Frequency transformers. :Those three 50 Khz I.F.'s are some special Hi Q custom units with an external ferrite shroud additionally being around the central ferrite core tuned coils. : : :Will be looking at the manual for researching of your tuning problem. . . . Initially : : : :Wonder if the Palo Alto surfer left a set screw(s) marginally loose in accessing paper bypassing capacitors in the tuning unit nearby. : : :OR a gapped tooth band drive belt. : : :Wait till I supply a drawing of that drive mechanism and I will therein show you how evaluate the drives mechanics. : : : : : : : : : :73's de Edd : : :  : |
:
:
:
:
:
:Hey Edd thanks for your help again!! I will do these tests you have put here and standing by for more info.
Frank
:::::I would bet the problem is the silver mica problem inside the IF cans. This does cause the crashing sound, and the alignment way off. See this link about the repair of the IF cans.
:::::
:::::http://oldradio.ca/radio/Tech/IFmica/IFmica.html
:::::
:::::I have run into this a lot lately.
:::::
:
:
:
:
::::Warren thank you for your reply-I have saved that to copy. If it is an offending can I hope it is easy to remedy. Anyone have any ideas about the bandswitch indicator problem?
::::
:::I am not familiar with this radio, but slipping tunig dials and dirty band switches are common problems.
:::
:::These are mechanical in nature. Slippage is something you can sometimes see. For dirty band switch "Tuner Tonic" or contact cleaner is the remede of choice.
:::
:::Often silver mica acts like a dirty band switch. Radios built before WWII are rarely afflicted with it. Also, any IF can with screw adjustmend, rather than slug adjustment is not affected by Silver Mica.
:::
:::Try cleaning on the band switch and fixing any mechanical slippage. If the problem persists, then we can talk about silver mica.
:::
:::All the Best,
:::
:::Bill Grimm
:
:
:
:::
::Thank you Bill I appreciate the direction and the good wish too-I do hope it's something rather mild-she's completely gone-over and running so well till these two bugs hit. I just know she wants to live. Had her for over 23 years now and she's part of the family.
::
:
:
9/8/2011 9:17:16 PMfrank(97232:97231)
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::Hey Edd thanks for your help again!! I will do these tests you have put here and standing by for more info.
:Frank
::well good news is that I managed to re-align the band indicators to the proper bands simply by disconnecting the driveshaft, spinning the drivebelt shaft till it read the right band, then reconnect the driveshaft. It was an easy fix. I still have the crackling which seems to have gotten moodier as things heated up BUT it is less severe than before and kinda makes me wonder if it aint the contacts?
Cancel EDD on the research sorry I didn't make the fix sooner but it's back in line now. It is running right now. Running nicely yet still the occasional crackel. John has to clear his bench which will take a few weeks then this rig goes back up on the bench. I will keep you updated and many thanks for all the help and valuable knowledge!
Frank
::::::I would bet the problem is the silver mica problem inside the IF cans. This does cause the crashing sound, and the alignment way off. See this link about the repair of the IF cans.
::::::
::::::http://oldradio.ca/radio/Tech/IFmica/IFmica.html
::::::
::::::I have run into this a lot lately.
::::::
::
::
::
::
:::::Warren thank you for your reply-I have saved that to copy. If it is an offending can I hope it is easy to remedy. Anyone have any ideas about the bandswitch indicator problem?
:::::
::::I am not familiar with this radio, but slipping tunig dials and dirty band switches are common problems.
::::
::::These are mechanical in nature. Slippage is something you can sometimes see. For dirty band switch "Tuner Tonic" or contact cleaner is the remede of choice.
::::
::::Often silver mica acts like a dirty band switch. Radios built before WWII are rarely afflicted with it. Also, any IF can with screw adjustmend, rather than slug adjustment is not affected by Silver Mica.
::::
::::Try cleaning on the band switch and fixing any mechanical slippage. If the problem persists, then we can talk about silver mica.
::::
::::All the Best,
::::
::::Bill Grimm
::
::
::
::::
:::Thank you Bill I appreciate the direction and the good wish too-I do hope it's something rather mild-she's completely gone-over and running so well till these two bugs hit. I just know she wants to live. Had her for over 23 years now and she's part of the family.
:::
::
::
:
:
::
:: :: :: :: :: :: :: :: :: :: :: ::Sir Frank. . . . . :: :: ::VOT ! ve are no longer beingks ables to be listeninks to der RUSSKIES shortly waving musiks vit der not quite so Sexy-88 . . . now ? :: :: ::Initially if that "crashing" is repetetive and frequent enough . . . does it seem to be having any difference as to whether the set is cold or "HOT" ? :: :: ::Initially start by multi-tapping on the naked sides of all of the RF / IF / AF tubes about as hard as if you were cracking an egg. :: :: ::Any popping show up ? ::Well then, lets sequentially work forward from the unsuspect 6AL5 detector of the set and just unplug a tube and and wait for the presence of crashes. ::Start with un-ker-plugging 3rd I.F. V8 . . . . and, if it doesn't still crash, plug it back in and move forward in the frontal RF sequencing to: ::then V7 ::then V6 ::then V4 ::then V3 ::When the pulling of a tube still results in crashes, its sort of indicative of the problem area being associated with the prior tube that had been pulled. :: :: ::Get that ? then . . . speaking into your other ear . . . Example: :: :: ::Set Crashes with V8 plugged in---> unplug V8 . . . .no crashes---> then plug V8 back in . . .still crashes---> :: :: ::unplug V7. . . .no crashes---> then plug V7 back in . . .still crashes ---> :: :: ::unplug V6 . . . . now HAS crashes---> then prior circuitry between V6---V7 is suspect. :: :: :: ::If an IF transformer is crashing . . . . I am more in suspect of the units 1.550 and 2.075 Khz Intermediate Frequency transformers. ::Those three 50 Khz I.F.'s are some special Hi Q custom units with an external ferrite shroud additionally being around the central ferrite core tuned coils. :: :: ::Will be looking at the manual for researching of your tuning problem. . . . Initially : :: :: ::Wonder if the Palo Alto surfer left a set screw(s) marginally loose in accessing paper bypassing capacitors in the tuning unit nearby. :: :: ::OR a gapped tooth band drive belt. :: :: ::Wait till I supply a drawing of that drive mechanism and I will therein show you how evaluate the drives mechanics. :: :: :: :: :: :: :: :: :: ::73's de Edd :: :: :: :: |
::
::
::
::
::
::Hey Edd thanks for your help again!! I will do these tests you have put here and standing by for more info.
:Frank
::well good news is that I managed to re-align the band indicators to the proper bands simply by disconnecting the driveshaft, spinning the drivebelt shaft till it read the right band, then reconnect the driveshaft. It was an easy fix. I still have the crackling which seems to have gotten moodier as things heated up BUT it is less severe than before and kinda makes me wonder if it aint the contacts?
Cancel EDD on the research sorry I didn't make the fix sooner but it's back in line now. It is running right now. Running nicely yet still the occasional crackel. John has to clear his bench which will take a few weeks then this rig goes back up on the bench. I will keep you updated and many thanks for all the help and valuable knowledge!
Frank
::::::I would bet the problem is the silver mica problem inside the IF cans. This does cause the crashing sound, and the alignment way off. See this link about the repair of the IF cans.
::::::
::::::http://oldradio.ca/radio/Tech/IFmica/IFmica.html
::::::
::::::I have run into this a lot lately.
::::::
::
::
::
::
:::::Warren thank you for your reply-I have saved that to copy. If it is an offending can I hope it is easy to remedy. Anyone have any ideas about the bandswitch indicator problem?
:::::
::::I am not familiar with this radio, but slipping tunig dials and dirty band switches are common problems.
::::
::::These are mechanical in nature. Slippage is something you can sometimes see. For dirty band switch "Tuner Tonic" or contact cleaner is the remede of choice.
::::
::::Often silver mica acts like a dirty band switch. Radios built before WWII are rarely afflicted with it. Also, any IF can with screw adjustmend, rather than slug adjustment is not affected by Silver Mica.
::::
::::Try cleaning on the band switch and fixing any mechanical slippage. If the problem persists, then we can talk about silver mica.
::::
::::All the Best,
::::
::::Bill Grimm
::
::
::
::::
:::Thank you Bill I appreciate the direction and the good wish too-I do hope it's something rather mild-she's completely gone-over and running so well till these two bugs hit. I just know she wants to live. Had her for over 23 years now and she's part of the family.
:::
::
::
:
:
9/8/2011 11:05:56 PMEdd(97233:97232)
|
Halli SX-88 Band Switching Drive Mechanics:  |
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::Sir Frank. . . . .
:::
:::
:::VOT ! ve are no longer beingks ables to be listeninks to der RUSSKIES shortly waving musiks vit der not quite so Sexy-88 . . . now ?
:::
:::
:::Initially if that "crashing" is repetetive and frequent enough . . . does it seem to be having any difference as to whether the set is cold or "HOT" ?
:::
:::
:::Initially start by multi-tapping on the naked sides of all of the RF / IF / AF tubes about as hard as if you were cracking an egg.
:::
:::
:::Any popping show up ?
:::Well then, lets sequentially work forward from the unsuspect 6AL5 detector of the set and just unplug a tube and and wait for the presence of crashes.
:::Start with un-ker-plugging 3rd I.F. V8 . . . . and, if it doesn't still crash, plug it back in and move forward in the frontal RF sequencing to:
:::then V7
:::then V6
:::then V4
:::then V3
:::When the pulling of a tube still results in crashes, its sort of indicative of the problem area being associated with the prior tube that had been pulled.
:::
:::
:::Get that ? then . . . speaking into your other ear . . . Example:
:::
:::
:::Set Crashes with V8 plugged in---> unplug V8 . . . .no crashes---> then plug V8 back in . . .still crashes--->
:::
:::
:::unplug V7. . . .no crashes---> then plug V7 back in . . .still crashes --->
:::
:::
:::unplug V6 . . . . now HAS crashes---> then prior circuitry between V6---V7 is suspect.
:::
:::
:::
:::If an IF transformer is crashing . . . . I am more in suspect of the units 1.550 and 2.075 Khz Intermediate Frequency transformers.
:::Those three 50 Khz I.F.'s are some special Hi Q custom units with an external ferrite shroud additionally being around the central ferrite core tuned coils.
:::
:::
:::Will be looking at the manual for researching of your tuning problem. . . . Initially :
:::
:::
:::Wonder if the Palo Alto surfer left a set screw(s) marginally loose in accessing paper bypassing capacitors in the tuning unit nearby.
:::
:::
:::OR a gapped tooth band drive belt.
:::
:::
:::Wait till I supply a drawing of that drive mechanism and I will therein show you how evaluate the drives mechanics.
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::73's de Edd
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::Hey Edd thanks for your help again!! I will do these tests you have put here and standing by for more info.
::Frank
:::well good news is that I managed to re-align the band indicators to the proper bands simply by disconnecting the driveshaft, spinning the drivebelt shaft till it read the right band, then reconnect the driveshaft. It was an easy fix. I still have the crackling which seems to have gotten moodier as things heated up BUT it is less severe than before and kinda makes me wonder if it aint the contacts?
:Cancel EDD on the research sorry I didn't make the fix sooner but it's back in line now. It is running right now. Running nicely yet still the occasional crackel. John has to clear his bench which will take a few weeks then this rig goes back up on the bench. I will keep you updated and many thanks for all the help and valuable knowledge!
:Frank
:::::::I would bet the problem is the silver mica problem inside the IF cans. This does cause the crashing sound, and the alignment way off. See this link about the repair of the IF cans.
:::::::
:::::::http://oldradio.ca/radio/Tech/IFmica/IFmica.html
:::::::
:::::::I have run into this a lot lately.
:::::::
:::
:::
:::
:::
::::::Warren thank you for your reply-I have saved that to copy. If it is an offending can I hope it is easy to remedy. Anyone have any ideas about the bandswitch indicator problem?
::::::
:::::I am not familiar with this radio, but slipping tunig dials and dirty band switches are common problems.
:::::
:::::These are mechanical in nature. Slippage is something you can sometimes see. For dirty band switch "Tuner Tonic" or contact cleaner is the remede of choice.
:::::
:::::Often silver mica acts like a dirty band switch. Radios built before WWII are rarely afflicted with it. Also, any IF can with screw adjustmend, rather than slug adjustment is not affected by Silver Mica.
:::::
:::::Try cleaning on the band switch and fixing any mechanical slippage. If the problem persists, then we can talk about silver mica.
:::::
:::::All the Best,
:::::
:::::Bill Grimm
:::
:::
:::
:::::
::::Thank you Bill I appreciate the direction and the good wish too-I do hope it's something rather mild-she's completely gone-over and running so well till these two bugs hit. I just know she wants to live. Had her for over 23 years now and she's part of the family.
::::
:::
:::
::
::
:
:
9/9/2011 9:25:00 AMfrank(97234:97233)
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::::
::::Hey Edd thanks for your help again!! I will do these tests you have put here and standing by for more info.
:::Frank
::::well good news is that I managed to re-align the band indicators to the proper bands simply by disconnecting the driveshaft, spinning the drivebelt shaft till it read the right band, then reconnect the driveshaft. It was an easy fix. I still have the crackling which seems to have gotten moodier as things heated up BUT it is less severe than before and kinda makes me wonder if it aint the contacts?
::Cancel EDD on the research sorry I didn't make the fix sooner but it's back in line now. It is running right now. Running nicely yet still the occasional crackel. John has to clear his bench which will take a few weeks then this rig goes back up on the bench. I will keep you updated and many thanks for all the help and valuable knowledge!
::Frank
::::::::I would bet the problem is the silver mica problem inside the IF cans. This does cause the crashing sound, and the alignment way off. See this link about the repair of the IF cans.
::::::::
::::::::http://oldradio.ca/radio/Tech/IFmica/IFmica.html
::::::::
::::::::I have run into this a lot lately.
::::::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
:::::::Warren thank you for your reply-I have saved that to copy. If it is an offending can I hope it is easy to remedy. Anyone have any ideas about the bandswitch indicator problem?
:::::::
::::::I am not familiar with this radio, but slipping tunig dials and dirty band switches are common problems.
::::::
::::::These are mechanical in nature. Slippage is something you can sometimes see. For dirty band switch "Tuner Tonic" or contact cleaner is the remede of choice.
::::::
::::::Often silver mica acts like a dirty band switch. Radios built before WWII are rarely afflicted with it. Also, any IF can with screw adjustmend, rather than slug adjustment is not affected by Silver Mica.
::::::
::::::Try cleaning on the band switch and fixing any mechanical slippage. If the problem persists, then we can talk about silver mica.
::::::
::::::All the Best,
::::::
::::::Bill Grimm
::::
::::
::::
::::::
:::::Thank you Bill I appreciate the direction and the good wish too-I do hope it's something rather mild-she's completely gone-over and running so well till these two bugs hit. I just know she wants to live. Had her for over 23 years now and she's part of the family.
:::::
::::
::::
:::
:::
::
::
:
:
:
: : : : : : : : : : : :Sir Frank. . . . . : : :Here's the info on the mechanical breakdown of that drive mechanism. : : :And I'm guestimating that the space cogged belt looks something in the order of this: : : : :  : :I was going to provide you the illustration at bottom page and then have you hold the band selector knob fixed in position and then index finger and thumb grip first the left dial plate at its top and move left and then right to see if there is any play in it and then move to the right dial plate and do the same testing. : : :Then move thru each band position to repeat the same test, those tests confirm any loose play or more importantly, a marginally loose cog on the drive belt. . . or forbid . . . one completely missing !. : : :Check tensioning to see just how loose your whole cogged belt is. : : :Lastly . . . if my unit . . . I would always change between bands at about 2 sec intervals just to be "kid gloves" easy on that whole mechanism train. : : :That special cogged belt may now be in the "unobtanium" category . . . . . I can't see its material construction and not be sure as which way to go the . . . neats foot oil or rubber restorer/and/renu . . . . route to rejuvenate and keep it pliable. : : :At least with those big cogs one doesnt have to worry about slippage so much. . . . like a common dial cord. : : :BTW any loose set screws found ? : : : : : : : :73's de Edd : : : : |
:
:
:
: : : : Halli SX-88 Band Switching Drive Mechanics: : : : : : : : : : : |
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
::::
::::
:::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :Gees Edd I think you may have the only SX-88 shop manual in existance-how do I get hold of it? The belt is exactly as your example and I am happy to report that the two tensioners are set at "maximum loose" yet the belt is quite taught and in real good shape too. In fact, I did catch that there were set screws at one end of the driveshaft that were only "snugged" and I just know that was enough to cause a jump. I am thrilled that she plays now without a hitch. I did due diligence on retightening every set screw. I figure I got off easy this time. I am going to set tight here and run her every night till we can get back to John's bench and test equipment and get those contacts cleaned like new. Thank you Edd!! Frank :::: :::: :::: ::::Sir Frank. . . . . :::: :::: ::::VOT ! ve are no longer beingks ables to be listeninks to der RUSSKIES shortly waving musiks vit der not quite so Sexy-88 . . . now ? :::: :::: ::::Initially if that "crashing" is repetetive and frequent enough . . . does it seem to be having any difference as to whether the set is cold or "HOT" ? :::: :::: ::::Initially start by multi-tapping on the naked sides of all of the RF / IF / AF tubes about as hard as if you were cracking an egg. :::: :::: ::::Any popping show up ? ::::Well then, lets sequentially work forward from the unsuspect 6AL5 detector of the set and just unplug a tube and and wait for the presence of crashes. ::::Start with un-ker-plugging 3rd I.F. V8 . . . . and, if it doesn't still crash, plug it back in and move forward in the frontal RF sequencing to: ::::then V7 ::::then V6 ::::then V4 ::::then V3 ::::When the pulling of a tube still results in crashes, its sort of indicative of the problem area being associated with the prior tube that had been pulled. :::: :::: ::::Get that ? then . . . speaking into your other ear . . . Example: :::: :::: ::::Set Crashes with V8 plugged in---> unplug V8 . . . .no crashes---> then plug V8 back in . . .still crashes---> :::: :::: ::::unplug V7. . . .no crashes---> then plug V7 back in . . .still crashes ---> :::: :::: ::::unplug V6 . . . . now HAS crashes---> then prior circuitry between V6---V7 is suspect. :::: :::: :::: ::::If an IF transformer is crashing . . . . I am more in suspect of the units 1.550 and 2.075 Khz Intermediate Frequency transformers. ::::Those three 50 Khz I.F.'s are some special Hi Q custom units with an external ferrite shroud additionally being around the central ferrite core tuned coils. :::: :::: ::::Will be looking at the manual for researching of your tuning problem. . . . Initially : :::: :::: ::::Wonder if the Palo Alto surfer left a set screw(s) marginally loose in accessing paper bypassing capacitors in the tuning unit nearby. :::: :::: ::::OR a gapped tooth band drive belt. :::: :::: ::::Wait till I supply a drawing of that drive mechanism and I will therein show you how evaluate the drives mechanics. :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: ::::73's de Edd :::: :::: :::: :::: |
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::Hey Edd thanks for your help again!! I will do these tests you have put here and standing by for more info.
:::Frank
::::well good news is that I managed to re-align the band indicators to the proper bands simply by disconnecting the driveshaft, spinning the drivebelt shaft till it read the right band, then reconnect the driveshaft. It was an easy fix. I still have the crackling which seems to have gotten moodier as things heated up BUT it is less severe than before and kinda makes me wonder if it aint the contacts?
::Cancel EDD on the research sorry I didn't make the fix sooner but it's back in line now. It is running right now. Running nicely yet still the occasional crackel. John has to clear his bench which will take a few weeks then this rig goes back up on the bench. I will keep you updated and many thanks for all the help and valuable knowledge!
::Frank
::::::::I would bet the problem is the silver mica problem inside the IF cans. This does cause the crashing sound, and the alignment way off. See this link about the repair of the IF cans.
::::::::
::::::::http://oldradio.ca/radio/Tech/IFmica/IFmica.html
::::::::
::::::::I have run into this a lot lately.
::::::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
:::::::Warren thank you for your reply-I have saved that to copy. If it is an offending can I hope it is easy to remedy. Anyone have any ideas about the bandswitch indicator problem?
:::::::
::::::I am not familiar with this radio, but slipping tunig dials and dirty band switches are common problems.
::::::
::::::These are mechanical in nature. Slippage is something you can sometimes see. For dirty band switch "Tuner Tonic" or contact cleaner is the remede of choice.
::::::
::::::Often silver mica acts like a dirty band switch. Radios built before WWII are rarely afflicted with it. Also, any IF can with screw adjustmend, rather than slug adjustment is not affected by Silver Mica.
::::::
::::::Try cleaning on the band switch and fixing any mechanical slippage. If the problem persists, then we can talk about silver mica.
::::::
::::::All the Best,
::::::
::::::Bill Grimm
::::
::::
::::
::::::
:::::Thank you Bill I appreciate the direction and the good wish too-I do hope it's something rather mild-she's completely gone-over and running so well till these two bugs hit. I just know she wants to live. Had her for over 23 years now and she's part of the family.
:::::
::::
::::
:::
:::
::
::
:
:
9/10/2011 2:07:09 PMBill G.(97241:97234)
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::
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:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::Hey Edd thanks for your help again!! I will do these tests you have put here and standing by for more info.
::::Frank
:::::well good news is that I managed to re-align the band indicators to the proper bands simply by disconnecting the driveshaft, spinning the drivebelt shaft till it read the right band, then reconnect the driveshaft. It was an easy fix. I still have the crackling which seems to have gotten moodier as things heated up BUT it is less severe than before and kinda makes me wonder if it aint the contacts?
:::Cancel EDD on the research sorry I didn't make the fix sooner but it's back in line now. It is running right now. Running nicely yet still the occasional crackel. John has to clear his bench which will take a few weeks then this rig goes back up on the bench. I will keep you updated and many thanks for all the help and valuable knowledge!
:::Frank
:::::::::I would bet the problem is the silver mica problem inside the IF cans. This does cause the crashing sound, and the alignment way off. See this link about the repair of the IF cans.
:::::::::
:::::::::http://oldradio.ca/radio/Tech/IFmica/IFmica.html
:::::::::
:::::::::I have run into this a lot lately.
:::::::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
::::::::Warren thank you for your reply-I have saved that to copy. If it is an offending can I hope it is easy to remedy. Anyone have any ideas about the bandswitch indicator problem?
::::::::
:::::::I am not familiar with this radio, but slipping tunig dials and dirty band switches are common problems.
:::::::
:::::::These are mechanical in nature. Slippage is something you can sometimes see. For dirty band switch "Tuner Tonic" or contact cleaner is the remede of choice.
:::::::
:::::::Often silver mica acts like a dirty band switch. Radios built before WWII are rarely afflicted with it. Also, any IF can with screw adjustmend, rather than slug adjustment is not affected by Silver Mica.
:::::::
:::::::Try cleaning on the band switch and fixing any mechanical slippage. If the problem persists, then we can talk about silver mica.
:::::::
:::::::All the Best,
:::::::
:::::::Bill Grimm
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::::
::::::Thank you Bill I appreciate the direction and the good wish too-I do hope it's something rather mild-she's completely gone-over and running so well till these two bugs hit. I just know she wants to live. Had her for over 23 years now and she's part of the family.
::::::
:::::
:::::
::::
::::
:::
:::
::
::
:
:
Hi Frank,
Looks like Edd is giving you good direction, as usual. The idea of removing the tubes in succession is good troubleshooting. Once the location of the problem is found you are then troubleshooting in a circuit, not the whole radio.
::
:: :: :: :: :: :: :: :: :: :: :: ::Sir Frank. . . . . :: :: ::Here's the info on the mechanical breakdown of that drive mechanism. :: :: ::And I'm guestimating that the space cogged belt looks something in the order of this: :: :: :: :: :: ::I was going to provide you the illustration at bottom page and then have you hold the band selector knob fixed in position and then index finger and thumb grip first the left dial plate at its top and move left and then right to see if there is any play in it and then move to the right dial plate and do the same testing. :: :: ::Then move thru each band position to repeat the same test, those tests confirm any loose play or more importantly, a marginally loose cog on the drive belt. . . or forbid . . . one completely missing !. :: :: ::Check tensioning to see just how loose your whole cogged belt is. :: :: ::Lastly . . . if my unit . . . I would always change between bands at about 2 sec intervals just to be "kid gloves" easy on that whole mechanism train. :: :: ::That special cogged belt may now be in the "unobtanium" category . . . . . I can't see its material construction and not be sure as which way to go the . . . neats foot oil or rubber restorer/and/renu . . . . route to rejuvenate and keep it pliable. :: :: ::At least with those big cogs one doesnt have to worry about slippage so much. . . . like a common dial cord. :: :: ::BTW any loose set screws found ? :: :: :: :: :: :: :: ::73's de Edd :: :: :: :: |
::
::
::
:: :: :: :: Halli SX-88 Band Switching Drive Mechanics: :: :: :: :: :: :: :: :: :: :: |
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
:::::
:::::
::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::Gees Edd I think you may have the only SX-88 shop manual in existance-how do I get hold of it? :The belt is exactly as your example and I am happy to report that the two tensioners are set at "maximum loose" yet the belt is quite taught and in real good shape too. In fact, I did catch that there were set screws at one end of the driveshaft that were only "snugged" and I just know that was enough to cause a jump. I am thrilled that she plays now without a hitch. I did due diligence on retightening every set screw. I figure I got off easy this time. :I am going to set tight here and run her every night till we can get back to John's bench and test equipment and get those contacts cleaned like new. :Thank you Edd!! :Frank ::::: ::::: ::::: :::::Sir Frank. . . . . ::::: ::::: :::::VOT ! ve are no longer beingks ables to be listeninks to der RUSSKIES shortly waving musiks vit der not quite so Sexy-88 . . . now ? ::::: ::::: :::::Initially if that "crashing" is repetetive and frequent enough . . . does it seem to be having any difference as to whether the set is cold or "HOT" ? ::::: ::::: :::::Initially start by multi-tapping on the naked sides of all of the RF / IF / AF tubes about as hard as if you were cracking an egg. ::::: ::::: :::::Any popping show up ? :::::Well then, lets sequentially work forward from the unsuspect 6AL5 detector of the set and just unplug a tube and and wait for the presence of crashes. :::::Start with un-ker-plugging 3rd I.F. V8 . . . . and, if it doesn't still crash, plug it back in and move forward in the frontal RF sequencing to: :::::then V7 :::::then V6 :::::then V4 :::::then V3 :::::When the pulling of a tube still results in crashes, its sort of indicative of the problem area being associated with the prior tube that had been pulled. ::::: ::::: :::::Get that ? then . . . speaking into your other ear . . . Example: ::::: ::::: :::::Set Crashes with V8 plugged in---> unplug V8 . . . .no crashes---> then plug V8 back in . . .still crashes---> ::::: ::::: :::::unplug V7. . . .no crashes---> then plug V7 back in . . .still crashes ---> ::::: ::::: :::::unplug V6 . . . . now HAS crashes---> then prior circuitry between V6---V7 is suspect. ::::: ::::: ::::: :::::If an IF transformer is crashing . . . . I am more in suspect of the units 1.550 and 2.075 Khz Intermediate Frequency transformers. :::::Those three 50 Khz I.F.'s are some special Hi Q custom units with an external ferrite shroud additionally being around the central ferrite core tuned coils. ::::: ::::: :::::Will be looking at the manual for researching of your tuning problem. . . . Initially : ::::: ::::: :::::Wonder if the Palo Alto surfer left a set screw(s) marginally loose in accessing paper bypassing capacitors in the tuning unit nearby. ::::: ::::: :::::OR a gapped tooth band drive belt. ::::: ::::: :::::Wait till I supply a drawing of that drive mechanism and I will therein show you how evaluate the drives mechanics. ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: :::::73's de Edd ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: |
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::Hey Edd thanks for your help again!! I will do these tests you have put here and standing by for more info.
::::Frank
:::::well good news is that I managed to re-align the band indicators to the proper bands simply by disconnecting the driveshaft, spinning the drivebelt shaft till it read the right band, then reconnect the driveshaft. It was an easy fix. I still have the crackling which seems to have gotten moodier as things heated up BUT it is less severe than before and kinda makes me wonder if it aint the contacts?
:::Cancel EDD on the research sorry I didn't make the fix sooner but it's back in line now. It is running right now. Running nicely yet still the occasional crackel. John has to clear his bench which will take a few weeks then this rig goes back up on the bench. I will keep you updated and many thanks for all the help and valuable knowledge!
:::Frank
:::::::::I would bet the problem is the silver mica problem inside the IF cans. This does cause the crashing sound, and the alignment way off. See this link about the repair of the IF cans.
:::::::::
:::::::::http://oldradio.ca/radio/Tech/IFmica/IFmica.html
:::::::::
:::::::::I have run into this a lot lately.
:::::::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
::::::::Warren thank you for your reply-I have saved that to copy. If it is an offending can I hope it is easy to remedy. Anyone have any ideas about the bandswitch indicator problem?
::::::::
:::::::I am not familiar with this radio, but slipping tunig dials and dirty band switches are common problems.
:::::::
:::::::These are mechanical in nature. Slippage is something you can sometimes see. For dirty band switch "Tuner Tonic" or contact cleaner is the remede of choice.
:::::::
:::::::Often silver mica acts like a dirty band switch. Radios built before WWII are rarely afflicted with it. Also, any IF can with screw adjustmend, rather than slug adjustment is not affected by Silver Mica.
:::::::
:::::::Try cleaning on the band switch and fixing any mechanical slippage. If the problem persists, then we can talk about silver mica.
:::::::
:::::::All the Best,
:::::::
:::::::Bill Grimm
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::::
::::::Thank you Bill I appreciate the direction and the good wish too-I do hope it's something rather mild-she's completely gone-over and running so well till these two bugs hit. I just know she wants to live. Had her for over 23 years now and she's part of the family.
::::::
:::::
:::::
::::
::::
:::
:::
::
::
:
:
Hi Frank,
Looks like Edd is giving you good direction, as usual. The idea of removing the tubes in succession is good troubleshooting. Once the location of the problem is found you are then troubleshooting in a circuit, not the whole radio.
Good luck. I will tune in to see if I can be of further help. I got busy with work and was away for a few days.
Best Regards,
Bill Grimm
9/10/2011 7:36:12 PMFrank(97244:97241)
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::Hey Edd thanks for your help again!! I will do these tests you have put here and standing by for more info.
:::::Frank
::::::well good news is that I managed to re-align the band indicators to the proper bands simply by disconnecting the driveshaft, spinning the drivebelt shaft till it read the right band, then reconnect the driveshaft. It was an easy fix. I still have the crackling which seems to have gotten moodier as things heated up BUT it is less severe than before and kinda makes me wonder if it aint the contacts?
::::Cancel EDD on the research sorry I didn't make the fix sooner but it's back in line now. It is running right now. Running nicely yet still the occasional crackel. John has to clear his bench which will take a few weeks then this rig goes back up on the bench. I will keep you updated and many thanks for all the help and valuable knowledge!
::::Frank
::::::::::I would bet the problem is the silver mica problem inside the IF cans. This does cause the crashing sound, and the alignment way off. See this link about the repair of the IF cans.
::::::::::
::::::::::http://oldradio.ca/radio/Tech/IFmica/IFmica.html
::::::::::
::::::::::I have run into this a lot lately.
::::::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
:::::::::Warren thank you for your reply-I have saved that to copy. If it is an offending can I hope it is easy to remedy. Anyone have any ideas about the bandswitch indicator problem?
:::::::::
::::::::I am not familiar with this radio, but slipping tunig dials and dirty band switches are common problems.
::::::::
::::::::These are mechanical in nature. Slippage is something you can sometimes see. For dirty band switch "Tuner Tonic" or contact cleaner is the remede of choice.
::::::::
::::::::Often silver mica acts like a dirty band switch. Radios built before WWII are rarely afflicted with it. Also, any IF can with screw adjustmend, rather than slug adjustment is not affected by Silver Mica.
::::::::
::::::::Try cleaning on the band switch and fixing any mechanical slippage. If the problem persists, then we can talk about silver mica.
::::::::
::::::::All the Best,
::::::::
::::::::Bill Grimm
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::::
:::::::Thank you Bill I appreciate the direction and the good wish too-I do hope it's something rather mild-she's completely gone-over and running so well till these two bugs hit. I just know she wants to live. Had her for over 23 years now and she's part of the family.
:::::::
::::::
::::::
:::::
:::::
::::
::::
:::
:::
::
::
:Hi Frank,
: Looks like Edd is giving you good direction, as usual. The idea of removing the tubes in succession is good troubleshooting. Once the location of the problem is found you are then troubleshooting in a circuit, not the whole radio.
:
: Good luck. I will tune in to see if I can be of further help. I got busy with work and was away for a few days.
:
:Best Regards,
:
:Bill Grimm
:
Hey thanks Bill I am lucky to be in here with such valuable smart folks. Radio is running just beautifully so far. Not one crackel since that fix. Knock on wood! just did! Where's my excedrin?
:::
::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: :::Sir Frank. . . . . ::: ::: :::Here's the info on the mechanical breakdown of that drive mechanism. ::: ::: :::And I'm guestimating that the space cogged belt looks something in the order of this: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: :::I was going to provide you the illustration at bottom page and then have you hold the band selector knob fixed in position and then index finger and thumb grip first the left dial plate at its top and move left and then right to see if there is any play in it and then move to the right dial plate and do the same testing. ::: ::: :::Then move thru each band position to repeat the same test, those tests confirm any loose play or more importantly, a marginally loose cog on the drive belt. . . or forbid . . . one completely missing !. ::: ::: :::Check tensioning to see just how loose your whole cogged belt is. ::: ::: :::Lastly . . . if my unit . . . I would always change between bands at about 2 sec intervals just to be "kid gloves" easy on that whole mechanism train. ::: ::: :::That special cogged belt may now be in the "unobtanium" category . . . . . I can't see its material construction and not be sure as which way to go the . . . neats foot oil or rubber restorer/and/renu . . . . route to rejuvenate and keep it pliable. ::: ::: :::At least with those big cogs one doesnt have to worry about slippage so much. . . . like a common dial cord. ::: ::: :::BTW any loose set screws found ? ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: :::73's de Edd ::: ::: ::: ::: |
:::
:::
:::
::: ::: ::: ::: Halli SX-88 Band Switching Drive Mechanics: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: |
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
::::::
::::::
:::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::Gees Edd I think you may have the only SX-88 shop manual in existance-how do I get hold of it? ::The belt is exactly as your example and I am happy to report that the two tensioners are set at "maximum loose" yet the belt is quite taught and in real good shape too. In fact, I did catch that there were set screws at one end of the driveshaft that were only "snugged" and I just know that was enough to cause a jump. I am thrilled that she plays now without a hitch. I did due diligence on retightening every set screw. I figure I got off easy this time. ::I am going to set tight here and run her every night till we can get back to John's bench and test equipment and get those contacts cleaned like new. ::Thank you Edd!! ::Frank :::::: :::::: :::::: ::::::Sir Frank. . . . . :::::: :::::: ::::::VOT ! ve are no longer beingks ables to be listeninks to der RUSSKIES shortly waving musiks vit der not quite so Sexy-88 . . . now ? :::::: :::::: ::::::Initially if that "crashing" is repetetive and frequent enough . . . does it seem to be having any difference as to whether the set is cold or "HOT" ? :::::: :::::: ::::::Initially start by multi-tapping on the naked sides of all of the RF / IF / AF tubes about as hard as if you were cracking an egg. :::::: :::::: ::::::Any popping show up ? ::::::Well then, lets sequentially work forward from the unsuspect 6AL5 detector of the set and just unplug a tube and and wait for the presence of crashes. ::::::Start with un-ker-plugging 3rd I.F. V8 . . . . and, if it doesn't still crash, plug it back in and move forward in the frontal RF sequencing to: ::::::then V7 ::::::then V6 ::::::then V4 ::::::then V3 ::::::When the pulling of a tube still results in crashes, its sort of indicative of the problem area being associated with the prior tube that had been pulled. :::::: :::::: ::::::Get that ? then . . . speaking into your other ear . . . Example: :::::: :::::: ::::::Set Crashes with V8 plugged in---> unplug V8 . . . .no crashes---> then plug V8 back in . . .still crashes---> :::::: :::::: ::::::unplug V7. . . .no crashes---> then plug V7 back in . . .still crashes ---> :::::: :::::: ::::::unplug V6 . . . . now HAS crashes---> then prior circuitry between V6---V7 is suspect. :::::: :::::: :::::: ::::::If an IF transformer is crashing . . . . I am more in suspect of the units 1.550 and 2.075 Khz Intermediate Frequency transformers. ::::::Those three 50 Khz I.F.'s are some special Hi Q custom units with an external ferrite shroud additionally being around the central ferrite core tuned coils. :::::: :::::: ::::::Will be looking at the manual for researching of your tuning problem. . . . Initially : :::::: :::::: ::::::Wonder if the Palo Alto surfer left a set screw(s) marginally loose in accessing paper bypassing capacitors in the tuning unit nearby. :::::: :::::: ::::::OR a gapped tooth band drive belt. :::::: :::::: ::::::Wait till I supply a drawing of that drive mechanism and I will therein show you how evaluate the drives mechanics. :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: ::::::73's de Edd :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: |
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::Hey Edd thanks for your help again!! I will do these tests you have put here and standing by for more info.
:::::Frank
::::::well good news is that I managed to re-align the band indicators to the proper bands simply by disconnecting the driveshaft, spinning the drivebelt shaft till it read the right band, then reconnect the driveshaft. It was an easy fix. I still have the crackling which seems to have gotten moodier as things heated up BUT it is less severe than before and kinda makes me wonder if it aint the contacts?
::::Cancel EDD on the research sorry I didn't make the fix sooner but it's back in line now. It is running right now. Running nicely yet still the occasional crackel. John has to clear his bench which will take a few weeks then this rig goes back up on the bench. I will keep you updated and many thanks for all the help and valuable knowledge!
::::Frank
::::::::::I would bet the problem is the silver mica problem inside the IF cans. This does cause the crashing sound, and the alignment way off. See this link about the repair of the IF cans.
::::::::::
::::::::::http://oldradio.ca/radio/Tech/IFmica/IFmica.html
::::::::::
::::::::::I have run into this a lot lately.
::::::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
:::::::::Warren thank you for your reply-I have saved that to copy. If it is an offending can I hope it is easy to remedy. Anyone have any ideas about the bandswitch indicator problem?
:::::::::
::::::::I am not familiar with this radio, but slipping tunig dials and dirty band switches are common problems.
::::::::
::::::::These are mechanical in nature. Slippage is something you can sometimes see. For dirty band switch "Tuner Tonic" or contact cleaner is the remede of choice.
::::::::
::::::::Often silver mica acts like a dirty band switch. Radios built before WWII are rarely afflicted with it. Also, any IF can with screw adjustmend, rather than slug adjustment is not affected by Silver Mica.
::::::::
::::::::Try cleaning on the band switch and fixing any mechanical slippage. If the problem persists, then we can talk about silver mica.
::::::::
::::::::All the Best,
::::::::
::::::::Bill Grimm
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::::
:::::::Thank you Bill I appreciate the direction and the good wish too-I do hope it's something rather mild-she's completely gone-over and running so well till these two bugs hit. I just know she wants to live. Had her for over 23 years now and she's part of the family.
:::::::
::::::
::::::
:::::
:::::
::::
::::
:::
:::
::
::
:Hi Frank,
: Looks like Edd is giving you good direction, as usual. The idea of removing the tubes in succession is good troubleshooting. Once the location of the problem is found you are then troubleshooting in a circuit, not the whole radio.
:
: Good luck. I will tune in to see if I can be of further help. I got busy with work and was away for a few days.
:
:Best Regards,
:
:Bill Grimm
:
Hey thanks Bill I am lucky to be in here with such valuable smart folks. Radio is running just beautifully so far. Not one crackel since that fix. Knock on wood! just did! Where's my excedrin?
9/10/2011 7:41:56 PMFrank(97245:97241)
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::::::Hey Edd thanks for your help again!! I will do these tests you have put here and standing by for more info.
:::::Frank
::::::well good news is that I managed to re-align the band indicators to the proper bands simply by disconnecting the driveshaft, spinning the drivebelt shaft till it read the right band, then reconnect the driveshaft. It was an easy fix. I still have the crackling which seems to have gotten moodier as things heated up BUT it is less severe than before and kinda makes me wonder if it aint the contacts?
::::Cancel EDD on the research sorry I didn't make the fix sooner but it's back in line now. It is running right now. Running nicely yet still the occasional crackel. John has to clear his bench which will take a few weeks then this rig goes back up on the bench. I will keep you updated and many thanks for all the help and valuable knowledge!
::::Frank
::::::::::I would bet the problem is the silver mica problem inside the IF cans. This does cause the crashing sound, and the alignment way off. See this link about the repair of the IF cans.
::::::::::
::::::::::http://oldradio.ca/radio/Tech/IFmica/IFmica.html
::::::::::
::::::::::I have run into this a lot lately.
::::::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
:::::::::Warren thank you for your reply-I have saved that to copy. If it is an offending can I hope it is easy to remedy. Anyone have any ideas about the bandswitch indicator problem?
:::::::::
::::::::I am not familiar with this radio, but slipping tunig dials and dirty band switches are common problems.
::::::::
::::::::These are mechanical in nature. Slippage is something you can sometimes see. For dirty band switch "Tuner Tonic" or contact cleaner is the remede of choice.
::::::::
::::::::Often silver mica acts like a dirty band switch. Radios built before WWII are rarely afflicted with it. Also, any IF can with screw adjustmend, rather than slug adjustment is not affected by Silver Mica.
::::::::
::::::::Try cleaning on the band switch and fixing any mechanical slippage. If the problem persists, then we can talk about silver mica.
::::::::
::::::::All the Best,
::::::::
::::::::Bill Grimm
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::::
:::::::Thank you Bill I appreciate the direction and the good wish too-I do hope it's something rather mild-she's completely gone-over and running so well till these two bugs hit. I just know she wants to live. Had her for over 23 years now and she's part of the family.
:::::::
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:::::
:::::
::::
::::
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:::
::
::
:Hi Frank,
: Looks like Edd is giving you good direction, as usual. The idea of removing the tubes in succession is good troubleshooting. Once the location of the problem is found you are then troubleshooting in a circuit, not the whole radio.
:
: Good luck. I will tune in to see if I can be of further help. I got busy with work and was away for a few days.
:
:Best Regards,
:
:Bill Grimm
:
Hey thanks Bill I am lucky to be in here with such valuable smart folks. Radio is running just beautifully so far. Not one crackel since that fix. Knock on wood! just did! Where's my excedrin?
:::
::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: :::Sir Frank. . . . . ::: ::: :::Here's the info on the mechanical breakdown of that drive mechanism. ::: ::: :::And I'm guestimating that the space cogged belt looks something in the order of this: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: :::I was going to provide you the illustration at bottom page and then have you hold the band selector knob fixed in position and then index finger and thumb grip first the left dial plate at its top and move left and then right to see if there is any play in it and then move to the right dial plate and do the same testing. ::: ::: :::Then move thru each band position to repeat the same test, those tests confirm any loose play or more importantly, a marginally loose cog on the drive belt. . . or forbid . . . one completely missing !. ::: ::: :::Check tensioning to see just how loose your whole cogged belt is. ::: ::: :::Lastly . . . if my unit . . . I would always change between bands at about 2 sec intervals just to be "kid gloves" easy on that whole mechanism train. ::: ::: :::That special cogged belt may now be in the "unobtanium" category . . . . . I can't see its material construction and not be sure as which way to go the . . . neats foot oil or rubber restorer/and/renu . . . . route to rejuvenate and keep it pliable. ::: ::: :::At least with those big cogs one doesnt have to worry about slippage so much. . . . like a common dial cord. ::: ::: :::BTW any loose set screws found ? ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: :::73's de Edd ::: ::: ::: ::: |
:::
:::
:::
::: ::: ::: ::: Halli SX-88 Band Switching Drive Mechanics: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: |
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
::::::
::::::
:::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::Gees Edd I think you may have the only SX-88 shop manual in existance-how do I get hold of it? ::The belt is exactly as your example and I am happy to report that the two tensioners are set at "maximum loose" yet the belt is quite taught and in real good shape too. In fact, I did catch that there were set screws at one end of the driveshaft that were only "snugged" and I just know that was enough to cause a jump. I am thrilled that she plays now without a hitch. I did due diligence on retightening every set screw. I figure I got off easy this time. ::I am going to set tight here and run her every night till we can get back to John's bench and test equipment and get those contacts cleaned like new. ::Thank you Edd!! ::Frank :::::: :::::: :::::: ::::::Sir Frank. . . . . :::::: :::::: ::::::VOT ! ve are no longer beingks ables to be listeninks to der RUSSKIES shortly waving musiks vit der not quite so Sexy-88 . . . now ? :::::: :::::: ::::::Initially if that "crashing" is repetetive and frequent enough . . . does it seem to be having any difference as to whether the set is cold or "HOT" ? :::::: :::::: ::::::Initially start by multi-tapping on the naked sides of all of the RF / IF / AF tubes about as hard as if you were cracking an egg. :::::: :::::: ::::::Any popping show up ? ::::::Well then, lets sequentially work forward from the unsuspect 6AL5 detector of the set and just unplug a tube and and wait for the presence of crashes. ::::::Start with un-ker-plugging 3rd I.F. V8 . . . . and, if it doesn't still crash, plug it back in and move forward in the frontal RF sequencing to: ::::::then V7 ::::::then V6 ::::::then V4 ::::::then V3 ::::::When the pulling of a tube still results in crashes, its sort of indicative of the problem area being associated with the prior tube that had been pulled. :::::: :::::: ::::::Get that ? then . . . speaking into your other ear . . . Example: :::::: :::::: ::::::Set Crashes with V8 plugged in---> unplug V8 . . . .no crashes---> then plug V8 back in . . .still crashes---> :::::: :::::: ::::::unplug V7. . . .no crashes---> then plug V7 back in . . .still crashes ---> :::::: :::::: ::::::unplug V6 . . . . now HAS crashes---> then prior circuitry between V6---V7 is suspect. :::::: :::::: :::::: ::::::If an IF transformer is crashing . . . . I am more in suspect of the units 1.550 and 2.075 Khz Intermediate Frequency transformers. ::::::Those three 50 Khz I.F.'s are some special Hi Q custom units with an external ferrite shroud additionally being around the central ferrite core tuned coils. :::::: :::::: ::::::Will be looking at the manual for researching of your tuning problem. . . . Initially : :::::: :::::: ::::::Wonder if the Palo Alto surfer left a set screw(s) marginally loose in accessing paper bypassing capacitors in the tuning unit nearby. :::::: :::::: ::::::OR a gapped tooth band drive belt. :::::: :::::: ::::::Wait till I supply a drawing of that drive mechanism and I will therein show you how evaluate the drives mechanics. :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: ::::::73's de Edd :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: |
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::Hey Edd thanks for your help again!! I will do these tests you have put here and standing by for more info.
:::::Frank
::::::well good news is that I managed to re-align the band indicators to the proper bands simply by disconnecting the driveshaft, spinning the drivebelt shaft till it read the right band, then reconnect the driveshaft. It was an easy fix. I still have the crackling which seems to have gotten moodier as things heated up BUT it is less severe than before and kinda makes me wonder if it aint the contacts?
::::Cancel EDD on the research sorry I didn't make the fix sooner but it's back in line now. It is running right now. Running nicely yet still the occasional crackel. John has to clear his bench which will take a few weeks then this rig goes back up on the bench. I will keep you updated and many thanks for all the help and valuable knowledge!
::::Frank
::::::::::I would bet the problem is the silver mica problem inside the IF cans. This does cause the crashing sound, and the alignment way off. See this link about the repair of the IF cans.
::::::::::
::::::::::http://oldradio.ca/radio/Tech/IFmica/IFmica.html
::::::::::
::::::::::I have run into this a lot lately.
::::::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
:::::::::Warren thank you for your reply-I have saved that to copy. If it is an offending can I hope it is easy to remedy. Anyone have any ideas about the bandswitch indicator problem?
:::::::::
::::::::I am not familiar with this radio, but slipping tunig dials and dirty band switches are common problems.
::::::::
::::::::These are mechanical in nature. Slippage is something you can sometimes see. For dirty band switch "Tuner Tonic" or contact cleaner is the remede of choice.
::::::::
::::::::Often silver mica acts like a dirty band switch. Radios built before WWII are rarely afflicted with it. Also, any IF can with screw adjustmend, rather than slug adjustment is not affected by Silver Mica.
::::::::
::::::::Try cleaning on the band switch and fixing any mechanical slippage. If the problem persists, then we can talk about silver mica.
::::::::
::::::::All the Best,
::::::::
::::::::Bill Grimm
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::::
:::::::Thank you Bill I appreciate the direction and the good wish too-I do hope it's something rather mild-she's completely gone-over and running so well till these two bugs hit. I just know she wants to live. Had her for over 23 years now and she's part of the family.
:::::::
::::::
::::::
:::::
:::::
::::
::::
:::
:::
::
::
:Hi Frank,
: Looks like Edd is giving you good direction, as usual. The idea of removing the tubes in succession is good troubleshooting. Once the location of the problem is found you are then troubleshooting in a circuit, not the whole radio.
:
: Good luck. I will tune in to see if I can be of further help. I got busy with work and was away for a few days.
:
:Best Regards,
:
:Bill Grimm
:
Hey thanks Bill I am lucky to be in here with such valuable smart folks. Radio is running just beautifully so far. Not one crackel since that fix. Knock on wood! just did! Where's my excedrin?
9/10/2011 7:42:23 PMFrank(97246:97241)
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::Hey Edd thanks for your help again!! I will do these tests you have put here and standing by for more info.
:::::Frank
::::::well good news is that I managed to re-align the band indicators to the proper bands simply by disconnecting the driveshaft, spinning the drivebelt shaft till it read the right band, then reconnect the driveshaft. It was an easy fix. I still have the crackling which seems to have gotten moodier as things heated up BUT it is less severe than before and kinda makes me wonder if it aint the contacts?
::::Cancel EDD on the research sorry I didn't make the fix sooner but it's back in line now. It is running right now. Running nicely yet still the occasional crackel. John has to clear his bench which will take a few weeks then this rig goes back up on the bench. I will keep you updated and many thanks for all the help and valuable knowledge!
::::Frank
::::::::::I would bet the problem is the silver mica problem inside the IF cans. This does cause the crashing sound, and the alignment way off. See this link about the repair of the IF cans.
::::::::::
::::::::::http://oldradio.ca/radio/Tech/IFmica/IFmica.html
::::::::::
::::::::::I have run into this a lot lately.
::::::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
:::::::::Warren thank you for your reply-I have saved that to copy. If it is an offending can I hope it is easy to remedy. Anyone have any ideas about the bandswitch indicator problem?
:::::::::
::::::::I am not familiar with this radio, but slipping tunig dials and dirty band switches are common problems.
::::::::
::::::::These are mechanical in nature. Slippage is something you can sometimes see. For dirty band switch "Tuner Tonic" or contact cleaner is the remede of choice.
::::::::
::::::::Often silver mica acts like a dirty band switch. Radios built before WWII are rarely afflicted with it. Also, any IF can with screw adjustmend, rather than slug adjustment is not affected by Silver Mica.
::::::::
::::::::Try cleaning on the band switch and fixing any mechanical slippage. If the problem persists, then we can talk about silver mica.
::::::::
::::::::All the Best,
::::::::
::::::::Bill Grimm
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::::
:::::::Thank you Bill I appreciate the direction and the good wish too-I do hope it's something rather mild-she's completely gone-over and running so well till these two bugs hit. I just know she wants to live. Had her for over 23 years now and she's part of the family.
:::::::
::::::
::::::
:::::
:::::
::::
::::
:::
:::
::
::
:Hi Frank,
: Looks like Edd is giving you good direction, as usual. The idea of removing the tubes in succession is good troubleshooting. Once the location of the problem is found you are then troubleshooting in a circuit, not the whole radio.
:
: Good luck. I will tune in to see if I can be of further help. I got busy with work and was away for a few days.
:
:Best Regards,
:
:Bill Grimm
:
Hey thanks Bill I am lucky to be in here with such valuable smart folks. Radio is running just beautifully so far. Not one crackel since that fix. Knock on wood! just did!
:::
::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: :::Sir Frank. . . . . ::: ::: :::Here's the info on the mechanical breakdown of that drive mechanism. ::: ::: :::And I'm guestimating that the space cogged belt looks something in the order of this: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: :::I was going to provide you the illustration at bottom page and then have you hold the band selector knob fixed in position and then index finger and thumb grip first the left dial plate at its top and move left and then right to see if there is any play in it and then move to the right dial plate and do the same testing. ::: ::: :::Then move thru each band position to repeat the same test, those tests confirm any loose play or more importantly, a marginally loose cog on the drive belt. . . or forbid . . . one completely missing !. ::: ::: :::Check tensioning to see just how loose your whole cogged belt is. ::: ::: :::Lastly . . . if my unit . . . I would always change between bands at about 2 sec intervals just to be "kid gloves" easy on that whole mechanism train. ::: ::: :::That special cogged belt may now be in the "unobtanium" category . . . . . I can't see its material construction and not be sure as which way to go the . . . neats foot oil or rubber restorer/and/renu . . . . route to rejuvenate and keep it pliable. ::: ::: :::At least with those big cogs one doesnt have to worry about slippage so much. . . . like a common dial cord. ::: ::: :::BTW any loose set screws found ? ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: :::73's de Edd ::: ::: ::: ::: |
:::
:::
:::
::: ::: ::: ::: Halli SX-88 Band Switching Drive Mechanics: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: |
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
::::::
::::::
:::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::Gees Edd I think you may have the only SX-88 shop manual in existance-how do I get hold of it? ::The belt is exactly as your example and I am happy to report that the two tensioners are set at "maximum loose" yet the belt is quite taught and in real good shape too. In fact, I did catch that there were set screws at one end of the driveshaft that were only "snugged" and I just know that was enough to cause a jump. I am thrilled that she plays now without a hitch. I did due diligence on retightening every set screw. I figure I got off easy this time. ::I am going to set tight here and run her every night till we can get back to John's bench and test equipment and get those contacts cleaned like new. ::Thank you Edd!! ::Frank :::::: :::::: :::::: ::::::Sir Frank. . . . . :::::: :::::: ::::::VOT ! ve are no longer beingks ables to be listeninks to der RUSSKIES shortly waving musiks vit der not quite so Sexy-88 . . . now ? :::::: :::::: ::::::Initially if that "crashing" is repetetive and frequent enough . . . does it seem to be having any difference as to whether the set is cold or "HOT" ? :::::: :::::: ::::::Initially start by multi-tapping on the naked sides of all of the RF / IF / AF tubes about as hard as if you were cracking an egg. :::::: :::::: ::::::Any popping show up ? ::::::Well then, lets sequentially work forward from the unsuspect 6AL5 detector of the set and just unplug a tube and and wait for the presence of crashes. ::::::Start with un-ker-plugging 3rd I.F. V8 . . . . and, if it doesn't still crash, plug it back in and move forward in the frontal RF sequencing to: ::::::then V7 ::::::then V6 ::::::then V4 ::::::then V3 ::::::When the pulling of a tube still results in crashes, its sort of indicative of the problem area being associated with the prior tube that had been pulled. :::::: :::::: ::::::Get that ? then . . . speaking into your other ear . . . Example: :::::: :::::: ::::::Set Crashes with V8 plugged in---> unplug V8 . . . .no crashes---> then plug V8 back in . . .still crashes---> :::::: :::::: ::::::unplug V7. . . .no crashes---> then plug V7 back in . . .still crashes ---> :::::: :::::: ::::::unplug V6 . . . . now HAS crashes---> then prior circuitry between V6---V7 is suspect. :::::: :::::: :::::: ::::::If an IF transformer is crashing . . . . I am more in suspect of the units 1.550 and 2.075 Khz Intermediate Frequency transformers. ::::::Those three 50 Khz I.F.'s are some special Hi Q custom units with an external ferrite shroud additionally being around the central ferrite core tuned coils. :::::: :::::: ::::::Will be looking at the manual for researching of your tuning problem. . . . Initially : :::::: :::::: ::::::Wonder if the Palo Alto surfer left a set screw(s) marginally loose in accessing paper bypassing capacitors in the tuning unit nearby. :::::: :::::: ::::::OR a gapped tooth band drive belt. :::::: :::::: ::::::Wait till I supply a drawing of that drive mechanism and I will therein show you how evaluate the drives mechanics. :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: ::::::73's de Edd :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: |
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::Hey Edd thanks for your help again!! I will do these tests you have put here and standing by for more info.
:::::Frank
::::::well good news is that I managed to re-align the band indicators to the proper bands simply by disconnecting the driveshaft, spinning the drivebelt shaft till it read the right band, then reconnect the driveshaft. It was an easy fix. I still have the crackling which seems to have gotten moodier as things heated up BUT it is less severe than before and kinda makes me wonder if it aint the contacts?
::::Cancel EDD on the research sorry I didn't make the fix sooner but it's back in line now. It is running right now. Running nicely yet still the occasional crackel. John has to clear his bench which will take a few weeks then this rig goes back up on the bench. I will keep you updated and many thanks for all the help and valuable knowledge!
::::Frank
::::::::::I would bet the problem is the silver mica problem inside the IF cans. This does cause the crashing sound, and the alignment way off. See this link about the repair of the IF cans.
::::::::::
::::::::::http://oldradio.ca/radio/Tech/IFmica/IFmica.html
::::::::::
::::::::::I have run into this a lot lately.
::::::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
:::::::::Warren thank you for your reply-I have saved that to copy. If it is an offending can I hope it is easy to remedy. Anyone have any ideas about the bandswitch indicator problem?
:::::::::
::::::::I am not familiar with this radio, but slipping tunig dials and dirty band switches are common problems.
::::::::
::::::::These are mechanical in nature. Slippage is something you can sometimes see. For dirty band switch "Tuner Tonic" or contact cleaner is the remede of choice.
::::::::
::::::::Often silver mica acts like a dirty band switch. Radios built before WWII are rarely afflicted with it. Also, any IF can with screw adjustmend, rather than slug adjustment is not affected by Silver Mica.
::::::::
::::::::Try cleaning on the band switch and fixing any mechanical slippage. If the problem persists, then we can talk about silver mica.
::::::::
::::::::All the Best,
::::::::
::::::::Bill Grimm
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::::
:::::::Thank you Bill I appreciate the direction and the good wish too-I do hope it's something rather mild-she's completely gone-over and running so well till these two bugs hit. I just know she wants to live. Had her for over 23 years now and she's part of the family.
:::::::
::::::
::::::
:::::
:::::
::::
::::
:::
:::
::
::
:Hi Frank,
: Looks like Edd is giving you good direction, as usual. The idea of removing the tubes in succession is good troubleshooting. Once the location of the problem is found you are then troubleshooting in a circuit, not the whole radio.
:
: Good luck. I will tune in to see if I can be of further help. I got busy with work and was away for a few days.
:
:Best Regards,
:
:Bill Grimm
:
Hey thanks Bill I am lucky to be in here with such valuable smart folks. Radio is running just beautifully so far. Not one crackel since that fix. Knock on wood! just did!