You can find some pictures that include the switch on radiomuseum.org at:

http://www.radiomuseum.org/r/crosley_iv_4.html

Richard

:Hello, I recently acquired a "barn fresh" Crosley IV 2 tube amp and the push-pull switch (sliding portion) is completely missing ! What is it for and does anybody have a detailed picture of the knob, shaft and switch contact assembly, so I can try to make my own ? Thanks for your help,
: Lee Petrie lee_mar_petrie@yahoo.com
:

Sir Lee. . . . . What is it for and does anybody have a detailed picture of the knob With the info which I am providing, you can see that it is the power switch for the unit, which opens the common shared line of the A and B+ supplies. Of the many views shown . . . I have chosen the most optimal one to MAG on up and get the most detail before the onset of any severe pixelation. Catch the blow-up on the far right along with my perceived drawing of a potentially functioning switch. Don't know if you have ANY single piece of the original switch ? Looking at the photos one would assume that frontal basic shaft to be a round black Bakelite rod . . . you still gots the hole . . . so you know its required diameter, now look at the photos central area just to the rear of that mentioned black rod and expect and even vaguely see some polished brass peeking thru. That would be the GOLD area of the drawing, designated as " C ". Then there is the ovaloid end piece at the end of " C " and being marked as " D " and it even appears as there being a like shaped, but slightly larger Bakelite disk placed between " C " and " D " with it having a peripheral, inward sloping chamfer. Those end parts oval shaping should be there to preclude the whole shaft from rotating, with the basic connectivity action then being left to the tensioned "A" and " B " contacts , pressing into the central " C " brass core. Then . . . if one pushes the switch shaft further forward . . . the " C " contact is so far inwards that the A-B bridging connection is opened an the switch turns off, with the A-B contacts then repositioning and tensioning down into the frontal rods groove. That tandem grooved design should assure a definitively "felt" detent position for the switches on and off positions. See what you can do with the provided info or make further queries. 73's de Edd

. . . . . Photo Referencing:. . . . . >

:Lee,
:
:You can find some pictures that include the switch on radiomuseum.org at:
:
:http://www.radiomuseum.org/r/crosley_iv_4.html
:
:Richard

:
::Hello, I recently acquired a "barn fresh" Crosley IV 2 tube amp and the push-pull switch (sliding portion) is completely missing ! What is it for and does anybody have a detailed picture of the knob, shaft and switch contact assembly, so I can try to make my own ? Thanks for your help,
:: Lee Petrie lee_mar_petrie@yahoo.com
::
:
:

Sirs . . . . . Richard and Lee: Yes . . . .I just happened to have been checking out the digital density requirement of that photo cluster of info and noticed that it was approaching a 2 meg density, and not expecting my free hosting site to accept that great of a storage burden. Therefore I . . . (shudder) . . . . decided that it then had to be relegatyed to subjection into a crusty JAY-PEGG reformatting. (That, then REALLY pixelized the close up of the original switch's Mag-up.) Now in that process of hot linking of that photo cluster, I sneaked in a couple of breaks to space those photos down a bit to separate from the initial text . . . . alas . . . now one of the >br<'s got into the URL addee. . . . . fully corrupting it and redirecting it to an itenerant camel jockeys tent just 2.2 clicks Southside of Salisbury, South Rhodesia . . . .alas, but with him only being online accessible on weekends. I usually get my URL's addees knocked out by the invasion of the " flying colons " . . .e.g. . . . look at some posts and you will see them coming back with ( : ) colons prefacing the start of each line, and then, by the final add on to a string there are multiple-multiple-multiple colon sets flying all over the place ! ( Thank goodness that they are not anatomical colons ! ) Since I am universally poking up text on a laptop, using NOTEPAD , but, with an adjunct plug in standard keyboard, so that I can then rip off at up to 100+ WPM speeds, I thereby have no spell check and it is my norm to just leave minor drop outs or reversals staying as they showed up . . . . since . . . . as one should know . . . Aoccdrnig to a rscheearch at Cmabrigde Uinervtisy, it deosn’t mttaer in waht oredr the ltteers in a wrod are, the olny iprmoetnt tihng is taht the frist and lsat ltteer be at the rghit pclae. The rset can be a total mses and you can sitll raed it wouthit a porbelm. Tihs is bcuseae the huamn mnid deos not raed ervey lteter by istlef, but the wrod as a wlohe. Lee: I think that I could sit down with an initial ( probably ? ? ? 1/2 in diameter ? ? ?) bakelite rod and cut to length and then get a solid brass cabinet pull knob at either Lowes or the Homeless Despot. The knob will be pretapped with probably a 10/24 and that would be passed thru ALL of the knob with a smaller drill and then tapped 10/24 thru all the length of the knob. The knob gets joined to the bakelite (with its end tapped 10/24 ) with a small 10/24 stud + Locktite. The end "D" piece is fabricated and gets attached with its screw and lockwasher. The "detent" grooves can be precisely formed by chucking the naked bakelite shaft in a 1/2 in chuck provided drill motor and place it on your lap and lock its switch on and use it " lathe style " to be able to precisely turn your bakelite stock. A Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel is brought up to the bakelite shaft at a right angle to where the groove is needed. Now that 1 inch radius of a new cut off wheel is too wide, so you need to SLOPE it in at an angle such that a groove of any where from that mentioned maximum 1 in width groove DOWN to a minimal groove the width of the cut off wheel could then be made. Adjust the angle of attact to get the proper width of groove and move in vewy-vewy slowly to eventually get the depth of groove needed. Then you quasi-replicate the other needed groove. Modus Operandi Deux: (Lazy or poorly craft equipped mans method) Remember old full sized 1/4 in phone plugs . . . guitar players still do ! . . . some of their mating jacks were made with switches that were activated as a plug was inserted. Now if a person was to use one of those and mount it and have the NOW utilized 1/4 inch bakelite rod prepared to do the detent positions . . . your switch is ready made for you . That would be using a FULL groove depth to create the OFF position, and its "detent" effect, but using just a very minor groove depth to create the desired " detent effect" and yet, still push aside the switch lever to create the ON action. This is a steeeee-ro jack being shown below , but it will let you see the basis switching action and its mode of construction , however, seems like most new units are enclosed within plactic housings , thus precluding the hunting down of one of the NOS units. 73's de Edd

:Richard, thanks for the better look at Edd's pictures, that really answers several questions in my mind ! Thanks again, to you both, Richard & Edd, for your help, Lee Petrie, Joliet, IL.
:
:
: