RCA T8-18 speaker problem
7/9/2011 11:37:10 AMTerry Decker(96241:0)
Hi, it's been a very long time. Don't ask.
I've spent literally months restoring and repairing an RCA T8-18. It was damaged in shipping and totally trashed. It was given to me to rebuild or for parts, etc. The circuity had already been repaired, caps replaced, etc.
I decided to restore it. I had a furniture restorer repair the front panel, I got a new dial plate, speaker cloth, and everything else.
BUT- MAJOR BUT. There is no way that the restored front panel will support the weight of the electro-magnetic speaker, which is also totally trashed. I know that there are ways to replace the field coil with resistors, but if possible I'd like to keep it in the circuit. It's there for reason, that being to provide inductance. My thought is to remove the field coil and mount it somewhere in the cabinet, then replace the speaker with a PM.
Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
Terry
I've spent literally months restoring and repairing an RCA T8-18. It was damaged in shipping and totally trashed. It was given to me to rebuild or for parts, etc. The circuity had already been repaired, caps replaced, etc.
I decided to restore it. I had a furniture restorer repair the front panel, I got a new dial plate, speaker cloth, and everything else.
BUT- MAJOR BUT. There is no way that the restored front panel will support the weight of the electro-magnetic speaker, which is also totally trashed. I know that there are ways to replace the field coil with resistors, but if possible I'd like to keep it in the circuit. It's there for reason, that being to provide inductance. My thought is to remove the field coil and mount it somewhere in the cabinet, then replace the speaker with a PM.
Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
Terry
7/9/2011 11:45:17 AMLewis L(96242:96241)
:Hi, it's been a very long time. Don't ask.
:I've spent literally months restoring and repairing an RCA T8-18. It was damaged in shipping and totally trashed. It was given to me to rebuild or for parts, etc. The circuity had already been repaired, caps replaced, etc.
:I decided to restore it. I had a furniture restorer repair the front panel, I got a new dial plate, speaker cloth, and everything else.
:BUT- MAJOR BUT. There is no way that the restored front panel will support the weight of the electro-magnetic speaker, which is also totally trashed. I know that there are ways to replace the field coil with resistors, but if possible I'd like to keep it in the circuit. It's there for reason, that being to provide inductance. My thought is to remove the field coil and mount it somewhere in the cabinet, then replace the speaker with a PM.
:Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
:Terry
:I've spent literally months restoring and repairing an RCA T8-18. It was damaged in shipping and totally trashed. It was given to me to rebuild or for parts, etc. The circuity had already been repaired, caps replaced, etc.
:I decided to restore it. I had a furniture restorer repair the front panel, I got a new dial plate, speaker cloth, and everything else.
:BUT- MAJOR BUT. There is no way that the restored front panel will support the weight of the electro-magnetic speaker, which is also totally trashed. I know that there are ways to replace the field coil with resistors, but if possible I'd like to keep it in the circuit. It's there for reason, that being to provide inductance. My thought is to remove the field coil and mount it somewhere in the cabinet, then replace the speaker with a PM.
:Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
:Terry
Well, Terry, I don't really see any electronic difference in using the old field coil as an inductor, except that it will be a lot bigger than a "store bought" one, and you will have a one heck of an electromagnet there, for whatever you might can think of to use it for.
Lewis
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7/9/2011 3:00:47 PMWarren(96244:96241)
The field coil in your radio is also the power supply's filter choke. I know it's a shame to lose this part. You can use the resistor method, and up the values of C-34 to like 20 MFD. and C-35 to 30 MFD. The other option is to use a frame type choke. The resistance of the frame type choke is normally way less than the field coil. So you still need to add resistance before and or after the frame choke. This would save room and not have to mount that old bulky field coil.
7/9/2011 3:19:03 PMTerry Decker(96246:96244)
:The field coil in your radio is also the power supply's filter choke. I know it's a shame to lose this part. You can use the resistor method, and up the values of C-34 to like 20 MFD. and C-35 to 30 MFD. The other option is to use a frame type choke. The resistance of the frame type choke is normally way less than the field coil. So you still need to add resistance before and or after the frame choke. This would save room and not have to mount that old bulky field coil.
:
Okay, I don't know the math, or the exact reason, but an inductor provides some electrical difference than the resistor/capacitor method. I think it has to do with retarded and leading voltage. I'm sure the resistor/capacitor method is Theoretically capable, but it just strikes me that there's something lost in that arrangement. But hey, what do I know. I'm spending three hours a day in bed dealing with a concussion, so I'm not at my brightest.
T.
:
Okay, I don't know the math, or the exact reason, but an inductor provides some electrical difference than the resistor/capacitor method. I think it has to do with retarded and leading voltage. I'm sure the resistor/capacitor method is Theoretically capable, but it just strikes me that there's something lost in that arrangement. But hey, what do I know. I'm spending three hours a day in bed dealing with a concussion, so I'm not at my brightest.
T.
7/9/2011 9:24:08 PMWarren(96249:96246)
The field coil (Filter Choke) is a nice thing to have to eliminate hum. Especially if it had the hum bucking coil incorporated with the field coil. The filter choke smoothes out AC ripple in the DC power supply. It is then easier to filter with lower value capacitors. A frame type choke would still do this in the power supply. (And Resistors) However you can still do the brut force method with a resistor and upping the values of the filter capacitors. In most cases you will not even notice any hum.
7/10/2011 12:12:02 AMTerry Decker(96252:96249)
:The field coil (Filter Choke) is a nice thing to have to eliminate hum. Especially if it had the hum bucking coil incorporated with the field coil. The filter choke smoothes out AC ripple in the DC power supply. It is then easier to filter with lower value capacitors. A frame type choke would still do this in the power supply. (And Resistors) However you can still do the brut force method with a resistor and upping the values of the filter capacitors. In most cases you will not even notice any hum.
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I admit I might have to go that route as a last resort I still think I'll try mounting the field coil somewhere on the side of the cabinet and using a PM. The field coil is mounted by screws, so I don't have to pop a pot metal joint. The only thing that bothers me is how to compensate for the hum-bucking coil. I'm hoping either I won't need it, or I can find some other way to compensate for it. The voice coil is 2.25 ohms, however that's a nominal impedance. 4 ohms should work. One thing I've learned in years of dealing with audio electronics is that you can go slightly higher in impedance, but NEVER lower.
:
I admit I might have to go that route as a last resort I still think I'll try mounting the field coil somewhere on the side of the cabinet and using a PM. The field coil is mounted by screws, so I don't have to pop a pot metal joint. The only thing that bothers me is how to compensate for the hum-bucking coil. I'm hoping either I won't need it, or I can find some other way to compensate for it. The voice coil is 2.25 ohms, however that's a nominal impedance. 4 ohms should work. One thing I've learned in years of dealing with audio electronics is that you can go slightly higher in impedance, but NEVER lower.
7/10/2011 12:40:49 AMWarren(96253:96252)
If your still going to use the field coil as the filter choke, be sure that the center pole piece stays with the coil. It does need the core to be a choke. You can still use the hum bucking coil as is wired with the audio output transformer. Longer wires to the new PM speaker voice coil won’t hurt anything.
7/10/2011 9:28:06 PMJon.(96275:96241)
:Hi, it's been a very long time. Don't ask.
:I've spent literally months restoring and repairing an RCA T8-18. It was damaged in shipping and totally trashed. It was given to me to rebuild or for parts, etc. The circuity had already been repaired, caps replaced, etc.
:I decided to restore it. I had a furniture restorer repair the front panel, I got a new dial plate, speaker cloth, and everything else.
:BUT- MAJOR BUT. There is no way that the restored front panel will support the weight of the electro-magnetic speaker, which is also totally trashed. I know that there are ways to replace the field coil with resistors, but if possible I'd like to keep it in the circuit. It's there for reason, that being to provide inductance. My thought is to remove the field coil and mount it somewhere in the cabinet, then replace the speaker with a PM.
:Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
:Terry
:I've spent literally months restoring and repairing an RCA T8-18. It was damaged in shipping and totally trashed. It was given to me to rebuild or for parts, etc. The circuity had already been repaired, caps replaced, etc.
:I decided to restore it. I had a furniture restorer repair the front panel, I got a new dial plate, speaker cloth, and everything else.
:BUT- MAJOR BUT. There is no way that the restored front panel will support the weight of the electro-magnetic speaker, which is also totally trashed. I know that there are ways to replace the field coil with resistors, but if possible I'd like to keep it in the circuit. It's there for reason, that being to provide inductance. My thought is to remove the field coil and mount it somewhere in the cabinet, then replace the speaker with a PM.
:Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
:Terry
Terry,
Can you fabricate a backer board to increase the overall thickness to support the original speaker? It will not be seen from the outside and can be stained to match the inside of the cabinet. Good to hear from you.
Jon.
:
7/11/2011 11:37:22 AMTerry Decker(96283:96275)
::Hi, it's been a very long time. Don't ask.
::I've spent literally months restoring and repairing an RCA T8-18. It was damaged in shipping and totally trashed. It was given to me to rebuild or for parts, etc. The circuity had already been repaired, caps replaced, etc.
::I decided to restore it. I had a furniture restorer repair the front panel, I got a new dial plate, speaker cloth, and everything else.
::BUT- MAJOR BUT. There is no way that the restored front panel will support the weight of the electro-magnetic speaker, which is also totally trashed. I know that there are ways to replace the field coil with resistors, but if possible I'd like to keep it in the circuit. It's there for reason, that being to provide inductance. My thought is to remove the field coil and mount it somewhere in the cabinet, then replace the speaker with a PM.
::Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
::Terry
:
:Terry,
:Can you fabricate a backer board to increase the overall thickness to support the original speaker? It will not be seen from the outside and can be stained to match the inside of the cabinet. Good to hear from you.
:Jon.
::
:
:
Thanks Jon. I asked the guy who refinished the cabinet the same thing. He said that any metal thick enough to do that would have to be seen. Believe me, that was my idea too. This speaker is REALLY heavy, a couple of pounds, maybe more-make that definitely. more. The struts on the front are very thin to begin with, and the repair looks great, but are even thinner
I'm gonna try and post a photo. I wish we had preview.
::I've spent literally months restoring and repairing an RCA T8-18. It was damaged in shipping and totally trashed. It was given to me to rebuild or for parts, etc. The circuity had already been repaired, caps replaced, etc.
::I decided to restore it. I had a furniture restorer repair the front panel, I got a new dial plate, speaker cloth, and everything else.
::BUT- MAJOR BUT. There is no way that the restored front panel will support the weight of the electro-magnetic speaker, which is also totally trashed. I know that there are ways to replace the field coil with resistors, but if possible I'd like to keep it in the circuit. It's there for reason, that being to provide inductance. My thought is to remove the field coil and mount it somewhere in the cabinet, then replace the speaker with a PM.
::Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
::Terry
:
:Terry,
:Can you fabricate a backer board to increase the overall thickness to support the original speaker? It will not be seen from the outside and can be stained to match the inside of the cabinet. Good to hear from you.
:Jon.
::
:
:
Thanks Jon. I asked the guy who refinished the cabinet the same thing. He said that any metal thick enough to do that would have to be seen. Believe me, that was my idea too. This speaker is REALLY heavy, a couple of pounds, maybe more-make that definitely. more. The struts on the front are very thin to begin with, and the repair looks great, but are even thinner
I'm gonna try and post a photo. I wish we had preview.
7/11/2011 11:41:10 AMTerry Decker(96284:96283)
:::Hi, it's been a very long time. Don't ask.
:::I've spent literally months restoring and repairing an RCA T8-18. It was damaged in shipping and totally trashed. It was given to me to rebuild or for parts, etc. The circuity had already been repaired, caps replaced, etc.
:::I decided to restore it. I had a furniture restorer repair the front panel, I got a new dial plate, speaker cloth, and everything else.
:::BUT- MAJOR BUT. There is no way that the restored front panel will support the weight of the electro-magnetic speaker, which is also totally trashed. I know that there are ways to replace the field coil with resistors, but if possible I'd like to keep it in the circuit. It's there for reason, that being to provide inductance. My thought is to remove the field coil and mount it somewhere in the cabinet, then replace the speaker with a PM.
:::Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
:::Terry
::
::Terry,
::Can you fabricate a backer board to increase the overall thickness to support the original speaker? It will not be seen from the outside and can be stained to match the inside of the cabinet. Good to hear from you.
::Jon.
:::
::
::
:Thanks Jon. I asked the guy who refinished the cabinet the same thing. He said that any metal thick enough to do that would have to be seen. Believe me, that was my idea too. This speaker is REALLY heavy, a couple of pounds, maybe more-make that definitely. more. The struts on the front are very thin to begin with, and the repair looks great, but are even thinner
:I'm gonna try and post a photo. I wish we had preview.
:
:
Wow, it worked.
Unfortunately I don't have a photo of the rebuild, But believe me, it's a perfect match, but thinner.
:::I've spent literally months restoring and repairing an RCA T8-18. It was damaged in shipping and totally trashed. It was given to me to rebuild or for parts, etc. The circuity had already been repaired, caps replaced, etc.
:::I decided to restore it. I had a furniture restorer repair the front panel, I got a new dial plate, speaker cloth, and everything else.
:::BUT- MAJOR BUT. There is no way that the restored front panel will support the weight of the electro-magnetic speaker, which is also totally trashed. I know that there are ways to replace the field coil with resistors, but if possible I'd like to keep it in the circuit. It's there for reason, that being to provide inductance. My thought is to remove the field coil and mount it somewhere in the cabinet, then replace the speaker with a PM.
:::Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
:::Terry
::
::Terry,
::Can you fabricate a backer board to increase the overall thickness to support the original speaker? It will not be seen from the outside and can be stained to match the inside of the cabinet. Good to hear from you.
::Jon.
:::
::
::
:Thanks Jon. I asked the guy who refinished the cabinet the same thing. He said that any metal thick enough to do that would have to be seen. Believe me, that was my idea too. This speaker is REALLY heavy, a couple of pounds, maybe more-make that definitely. more. The struts on the front are very thin to begin with, and the repair looks great, but are even thinner
:I'm gonna try and post a photo. I wish we had preview.
:
:
Wow, it worked.
Unfortunately I don't have a photo of the rebuild, But believe me, it's a perfect match, but thinner.
7/12/2011 9:14:38 AMJon(96300:96284)
::::Hi, it's been a very long time. Don't ask.
::::I've spent literally months restoring and repairing an RCA T8-18. It was damaged in shipping and totally trashed. It was given to me to rebuild or for parts, etc. The circuity had already been repaired, caps replaced, etc.
::::I decided to restore it. I had a furniture restorer repair the front panel, I got a new dial plate, speaker cloth, and everything else.
::::BUT- MAJOR BUT. There is no way that the restored front panel will support the weight of the electro-magnetic speaker, which is also totally trashed. I know that there are ways to replace the field coil with resistors, but if possible I'd like to keep it in the circuit. It's there for reason, that being to provide inductance. My thought is to remove the field coil and mount it somewhere in the cabinet, then replace the speaker with a PM.
::::Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
::::Terry
:::
:::Terry,
:::Can you fabricate a backer board to increase the overall thickness to support the original speaker? It will not be seen from the outside and can be stained to match the inside of the cabinet. Good to hear from you.
:::Jon.
::::
:::
:::
::Thanks Jon. I asked the guy who refinished the cabinet the same thing. He said that any metal thick enough to do that would have to be seen. Believe me, that was my idea too. This speaker is REALLY heavy, a couple of pounds, maybe more-make that definitely. more. The struts on the front are very thin to begin with, and the repair looks great, but are even thinner
::I'm gonna try and post a photo. I wish we had preview.
::
::
:Wow, it worked.
:Unfortunately I don't have a photo of the rebuild, But believe me, it's a perfect match, but thinner.
:
Terry,
I don't think it has to be metal, just some 1/8 or 1/4 inch board will be plenty. As long as the speaker bolts are long enough.
Jon.
:
::::I've spent literally months restoring and repairing an RCA T8-18. It was damaged in shipping and totally trashed. It was given to me to rebuild or for parts, etc. The circuity had already been repaired, caps replaced, etc.
::::I decided to restore it. I had a furniture restorer repair the front panel, I got a new dial plate, speaker cloth, and everything else.
::::BUT- MAJOR BUT. There is no way that the restored front panel will support the weight of the electro-magnetic speaker, which is also totally trashed. I know that there are ways to replace the field coil with resistors, but if possible I'd like to keep it in the circuit. It's there for reason, that being to provide inductance. My thought is to remove the field coil and mount it somewhere in the cabinet, then replace the speaker with a PM.
::::Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
::::Terry
:::
:::Terry,
:::Can you fabricate a backer board to increase the overall thickness to support the original speaker? It will not be seen from the outside and can be stained to match the inside of the cabinet. Good to hear from you.
:::Jon.
::::
:::
:::
::Thanks Jon. I asked the guy who refinished the cabinet the same thing. He said that any metal thick enough to do that would have to be seen. Believe me, that was my idea too. This speaker is REALLY heavy, a couple of pounds, maybe more-make that definitely. more. The struts on the front are very thin to begin with, and the repair looks great, but are even thinner
::I'm gonna try and post a photo. I wish we had preview.
::
::
:Wow, it worked.
:Unfortunately I don't have a photo of the rebuild, But believe me, it's a perfect match, but thinner.
:
Terry,
I don't think it has to be metal, just some 1/8 or 1/4 inch board will be plenty. As long as the speaker bolts are long enough.
Jon.
:
7/12/2011 12:04:49 PMTerry Decker(96305:96300)
:::::Hi, it's been a very long time. Don't ask.
:::::I've spent literally months restoring and repairing an RCA T8-18. It was damaged in shipping and totally trashed. It was given to me to rebuild or for parts, etc. The circuity had already been repaired, caps replaced, etc.
:::::I decided to restore it. I had a furniture restorer repair the front panel, I got a new dial plate, speaker cloth, and everything else.
:::::BUT- MAJOR BUT. There is no way that the restored front panel will support the weight of the electro-magnetic speaker, which is also totally trashed. I know that there are ways to replace the field coil with resistors, but if possible I'd like to keep it in the circuit. It's there for reason, that being to provide inductance. My thought is to remove the field coil and mount it somewhere in the cabinet, then replace the speaker with a PM.
:::::Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
:::::Terry
::::
::::Terry,
::::Can you fabricate a backer board to increase the overall thickness to support the original speaker? It will not be seen from the outside and can be stained to match the inside of the cabinet. Good to hear from you.
::::Jon.
:::::
::::
::::
:::Thanks Jon. I asked the guy who refinished the cabinet the same thing. He said that any metal thick enough to do that would have to be seen. Believe me, that was my idea too. This speaker is REALLY heavy, a couple of pounds, maybe more-make that definitely. more. The struts on the front are very thin to begin with, and the repair looks great, but are even thinner
:::I'm gonna try and post a photo. I wish we had preview.
:::
:::
::Wow, it worked.
::Unfortunately I don't have a photo of the rebuild, But believe me, it's a perfect match, but thinner.
::
:Terry,
:I don't think it has to be metal, just some 1/8 or 1/4 inch board will be plenty. As long as the speaker bolts are long enough.
:Jon.
::
:
:
That's another good idea, and of course the original struts held the speaker. However, this is a VERY heavy speaker. Any mistake and all of the struts would go and all of my effort would be in vain. Also, I don't know for sure that any other fix, like metal or thick reinforcement would fit, and I wouldn't want to make that kind of mistake. Plus the cone is still
completely trashed. I could spend a lot of time messing with different glue and paper, and it still won't work. I'm aware of our friend in Alabama, but that IS a last resort. Like when I win the lottery.
All of my repairs and restoration are on hold for awhile. Because of my concussion I get confused and I wouldn't want to do any messing around with high voltage in that condition. Zapp!
Once again , thanks for all of the suggestions. I still want to explore the PM speaker. If it doesn't work I'm only out a few bucks.
Terry
:::::I've spent literally months restoring and repairing an RCA T8-18. It was damaged in shipping and totally trashed. It was given to me to rebuild or for parts, etc. The circuity had already been repaired, caps replaced, etc.
:::::I decided to restore it. I had a furniture restorer repair the front panel, I got a new dial plate, speaker cloth, and everything else.
:::::BUT- MAJOR BUT. There is no way that the restored front panel will support the weight of the electro-magnetic speaker, which is also totally trashed. I know that there are ways to replace the field coil with resistors, but if possible I'd like to keep it in the circuit. It's there for reason, that being to provide inductance. My thought is to remove the field coil and mount it somewhere in the cabinet, then replace the speaker with a PM.
:::::Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
:::::Terry
::::
::::Terry,
::::Can you fabricate a backer board to increase the overall thickness to support the original speaker? It will not be seen from the outside and can be stained to match the inside of the cabinet. Good to hear from you.
::::Jon.
:::::
::::
::::
:::Thanks Jon. I asked the guy who refinished the cabinet the same thing. He said that any metal thick enough to do that would have to be seen. Believe me, that was my idea too. This speaker is REALLY heavy, a couple of pounds, maybe more-make that definitely. more. The struts on the front are very thin to begin with, and the repair looks great, but are even thinner
:::I'm gonna try and post a photo. I wish we had preview.
:::
:::
::Wow, it worked.
::Unfortunately I don't have a photo of the rebuild, But believe me, it's a perfect match, but thinner.
::
:Terry,
:I don't think it has to be metal, just some 1/8 or 1/4 inch board will be plenty. As long as the speaker bolts are long enough.
:Jon.
::
:
:
That's another good idea, and of course the original struts held the speaker. However, this is a VERY heavy speaker. Any mistake and all of the struts would go and all of my effort would be in vain. Also, I don't know for sure that any other fix, like metal or thick reinforcement would fit, and I wouldn't want to make that kind of mistake. Plus the cone is still
completely trashed. I could spend a lot of time messing with different glue and paper, and it still won't work. I'm aware of our friend in Alabama, but that IS a last resort. Like when I win the lottery.
All of my repairs and restoration are on hold for awhile. Because of my concussion I get confused and I wouldn't want to do any messing around with high voltage in that condition. Zapp!
Once again , thanks for all of the suggestions. I still want to explore the PM speaker. If it doesn't work I'm only out a few bucks.
Terry
7/12/2011 7:40:04 PMMmakazoo(96324:96305)
Terry: My Stewart Warner has two speakers and one had an open field coil. So, I did use a PM speaker in it's place and mounted a choke next to it on the backer board. The speakers are very heavy and the board supports them fine. Of course, there are many screws holding the board to the inside of the cabinet in this radio. No it's not original looking, but one day I will find a replacement speaker and in the meantime, no permanent changes were made. Mark from Kalamazoo
7/14/2011 11:43:32 AMTerry Decker(96359:96324)
:Terry: My Stewart Warner has two speakers and one had an open field coil. So, I did use a PM speaker in it's place and mounted a choke next to it on the backer board. The speakers are very heavy and the board supports them fine. Of course, there are many screws holding the board to the inside of the cabinet in this radio. No it's not original looking, but one day I will find a replacement speaker and in the meantime, no permanent changes were made. Mark from Kalamazoo
:
Cool, thanks. I've got a bunch of stuff on the bench ahead of it, but I can't wait to get started on it. (I've been incapacitated, but I'm better).
Thanks for all of the great comments. This gonna be a beautiful set when I get it finished.
Terry
:
Cool, thanks. I've got a bunch of stuff on the bench ahead of it, but I can't wait to get started on it. (I've been incapacitated, but I'm better).
Thanks for all of the great comments. This gonna be a beautiful set when I get it finished.
Terry
7/15/2011 4:54:59 PMMmakazoo(96378:96359)
Terry: You'll have to post some pix for us to see when you are done. And sorry to hear about your injury. Hope there are no lasting effects Mark from Kalamazoo
7/15/2011 5:54:02 PMEdd(96381:96378)
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:Terry: You'll have to post some pix for us to see when you are done. And sorry to hear about your injury. Hope there are no lasting effects Mark from Kalamazoo
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7/17/2011 12:46:43 PMTerry Decker(96413:96381)
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::Terry: You'll have to post some pix for us to see when you are done. And sorry to hear about your injury. Hope there are no lasting effects Mark from Kalamazoo
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Thanks edd. If I understand it, one of your suggestions is mounting a board inside the cabinet to support the weight of the field coil. That is the most sensible idea yet, and one I never would have thought of.
However, there's still the problem of the completely trashed cone.
< src=http://a4.l3-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/146/32b327c30a3c4115a96db5963f492789/m.jpg>
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: : : :  : : : : : : : :Sir Terry . . . . . : : :Mmmmmmm . . . ehhhh . . . What's up Doc ? . . . long see . . . . no time ? : : :I could only find a photo of a back cabinet view of an 18 -14 unit, any chance that the speakers are alike in the respect of using a square field coil basket and possibly are being about the same size ? . . . . . . . . . . : : : :  : : : : : : :How about this possibility . . . . as it certainly looks like that unit has one substantial top on it. : : :Is it feasible to consider the possibility of mounting an upwards to maybe 2 inch thick by 6X6---8X8 square ? . . . vat you thinks ? . . . . hardwood block at the tops underside, with "scrue and glews" . :Then . . . in looking at that speaker . . . it appears that its front / to rear center of gravity will be occuring about three quarters of the way to the rear of the unit. : : :One then forms a right angle inverted square "U" bracket from sheet metal to then reach down and mount to the two sides of the speaker frame and fasten/screw/clamp . . . onto/into it. : : :The MAIN mechanical support of the speaker will THEN be accomplished with that mount, and the then transition of minimal dependence upon the 4 frontal mounting plate screws of the speaker proper. : : :Ultra flat black paint . . . OR . . .a matte coloring to the existing finish of the obscured inside bottom of the top, somewhat disguises the support mechanica presence : : : : : : : :73's de Edd : : :  : |
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::Terry: You'll have to post some pix for us to see when you are done. And sorry to hear about your injury. Hope there are no lasting effects Mark from Kalamazoo
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Thanks edd. If I understand it, one of your suggestions is mounting a board inside the cabinet to support the weight of the field coil. That is the most sensible idea yet, and one I never would have thought of.
However, there's still the problem of the completely trashed cone.
< src=http://a4.l3-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/146/32b327c30a3c4115a96db5963f492789/m.jpg>
7/17/2011 12:49:27 PMTerry Decker(96414:96413)
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:::Terry: You'll have to post some pix for us to see when you are done. And sorry to hear about your injury. Hope there are no lasting effects Mark from Kalamazoo
:::
::
::
:Thanks edd. If I understand it, one of your suggestions is mounting a board inside the cabinet to support the weight of the field coil. That is the most sensible idea yet, and one I never would have thought of.
:However, there's still the problem of the completely trashed cone.
:< src=http://a4.l3-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/146/32b327c30a3c4115a96db5963f492789/m.jpg>
:
Okay-let's try the photo again-
::
:: :: :: :: :: :: :: :: :: :: :: ::Sir Terry . . . . . :: :: ::Mmmmmmm . . . ehhhh . . . What's up Doc ? . . . long see . . . . no time ? :: :: ::I could only find a photo of a back cabinet view of an 18 -14 unit, any chance that the speakers are alike in the respect of using a square field coil basket and possibly are being about the same size ? . . . . . . . . . . :: :: :: :: :: :: :: :: :: :: ::How about this possibility . . . . as it certainly looks like that unit has one substantial top on it. :: :: ::Is it feasible to consider the possibility of mounting an upwards to maybe 2 inch thick by 6X6---8X8 square ? . . . vat you thinks ? . . . . hardwood block at the tops underside, with "scrue and glews" . ::Then . . . in looking at that speaker . . . it appears that its front / to rear center of gravity will be occuring about three quarters of the way to the rear of the unit. :: :: ::One then forms a right angle inverted square "U" bracket from sheet metal to then reach down and mount to the two sides of the speaker frame and fasten/screw/clamp . . . onto/into it. :: :: ::The MAIN mechanical support of the speaker will THEN be accomplished with that mount, and the then transition of minimal dependence upon the 4 frontal mounting plate screws of the speaker proper. :: :: ::Ultra flat black paint . . . OR . . .a matte coloring to the existing finish of the obscured inside bottom of the top, somewhat disguises the support mechanica presence :: :: :: :: :: :: :: ::73's de Edd :: :: :: :: |
::
::
::
::
::
:::Terry: You'll have to post some pix for us to see when you are done. And sorry to hear about your injury. Hope there are no lasting effects Mark from Kalamazoo
:::
::
::
:Thanks edd. If I understand it, one of your suggestions is mounting a board inside the cabinet to support the weight of the field coil. That is the most sensible idea yet, and one I never would have thought of.
:However, there's still the problem of the completely trashed cone.
:< src=http://a4.l3-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/146/32b327c30a3c4115a96db5963f492789/m.jpg>
:
Okay-let's try the photo again-
7/19/2011 5:50:37 PMcodefox(96441:96414)
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
::::Terry: You'll have to post some pix for us to see when you are done. And sorry to hear about your injury. Hope there are no lasting effects Mark from Kalamazoo
::::
:::
:::
::Thanks edd. If I understand it, one of your suggestions is mounting a board inside the cabinet to support the weight of the field coil. That is the most sensible idea yet, and one I never would have thought of.
::However, there's still the problem of the completely trashed cone.
::< src=http://a4.l3-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/146/32b327c30a3c4115a96db5963f492789/m.jpg>
::
:Okay-let's try the photo again-
:
:
:
:::
::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: :::Sir Terry . . . . . ::: ::: :::Mmmmmmm . . . ehhhh . . . What's up Doc ? . . . long see . . . . no time ? ::: ::: :::I could only find a photo of a back cabinet view of an 18 -14 unit, any chance that the speakers are alike in the respect of using a square field coil basket and possibly are being about the same size ? . . . . . . . . . . ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: :::How about this possibility . . . . as it certainly looks like that unit has one substantial top on it. ::: ::: :::Is it feasible to consider the possibility of mounting an upwards to maybe 2 inch thick by 6X6---8X8 square ? . . . vat you thinks ? . . . . hardwood block at the tops underside, with "scrue and glews" . :::Then . . . in looking at that speaker . . . it appears that its front / to rear center of gravity will be occuring about three quarters of the way to the rear of the unit. ::: ::: :::One then forms a right angle inverted square "U" bracket from sheet metal to then reach down and mount to the two sides of the speaker frame and fasten/screw/clamp . . . onto/into it. ::: ::: :::The MAIN mechanical support of the speaker will THEN be accomplished with that mount, and the then transition of minimal dependence upon the 4 frontal mounting plate screws of the speaker proper. ::: ::: :::Ultra flat black paint . . . OR . . .a matte coloring to the existing finish of the obscured inside bottom of the top, somewhat disguises the support mechanica presence ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: :::73's de Edd ::: ::: ::: ::: |
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
::::Terry: You'll have to post some pix for us to see when you are done. And sorry to hear about your injury. Hope there are no lasting effects Mark from Kalamazoo
::::
:::
:::
::Thanks edd. If I understand it, one of your suggestions is mounting a board inside the cabinet to support the weight of the field coil. That is the most sensible idea yet, and one I never would have thought of.
::However, there's still the problem of the completely trashed cone.
::< src=http://a4.l3-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/146/32b327c30a3c4115a96db5963f492789/m.jpg>
::
:Okay-let's try the photo again-
:
:
:
7/19/2011 5:51:04 PMcodefox(96442:96441)
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
:::::Terry: You'll have to post some pix for us to see when you are done. And sorry to hear about your injury. Hope there are no lasting effects Mark from Kalamazoo
:::::
::::
::::
:::Thanks edd. If I understand it, one of your suggestions is mounting a board inside the cabinet to support the weight of the field coil. That is the most sensible idea yet, and one I never would have thought of.
:::However, there's still the problem of the completely trashed cone.
:::< src=http://a4.l3-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/146/32b327c30a3c4115a96db5963f492789/m.jpg>
:::
::Okay-let's try the photo again-
::
::
::
:
:
::::
:::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: ::::Sir Terry . . . . . :::: :::: ::::Mmmmmmm . . . ehhhh . . . What's up Doc ? . . . long see . . . . no time ? :::: :::: ::::I could only find a photo of a back cabinet view of an 18 -14 unit, any chance that the speakers are alike in the respect of using a square field coil basket and possibly are being about the same size ? . . . . . . . . . . :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: ::::How about this possibility . . . . as it certainly looks like that unit has one substantial top on it. :::: :::: ::::Is it feasible to consider the possibility of mounting an upwards to maybe 2 inch thick by 6X6---8X8 square ? . . . vat you thinks ? . . . . hardwood block at the tops underside, with "scrue and glews" . ::::Then . . . in looking at that speaker . . . it appears that its front / to rear center of gravity will be occuring about three quarters of the way to the rear of the unit. :::: :::: ::::One then forms a right angle inverted square "U" bracket from sheet metal to then reach down and mount to the two sides of the speaker frame and fasten/screw/clamp . . . onto/into it. :::: :::: ::::The MAIN mechanical support of the speaker will THEN be accomplished with that mount, and the then transition of minimal dependence upon the 4 frontal mounting plate screws of the speaker proper. :::: :::: ::::Ultra flat black paint . . . OR . . .a matte coloring to the existing finish of the obscured inside bottom of the top, somewhat disguises the support mechanica presence :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: ::::73's de Edd :::: :::: :::: :::: |
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
:::::Terry: You'll have to post some pix for us to see when you are done. And sorry to hear about your injury. Hope there are no lasting effects Mark from Kalamazoo
:::::
::::
::::
:::Thanks edd. If I understand it, one of your suggestions is mounting a board inside the cabinet to support the weight of the field coil. That is the most sensible idea yet, and one I never would have thought of.
:::However, there's still the problem of the completely trashed cone.
:::< src=http://a4.l3-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/146/32b327c30a3c4115a96db5963f492789/m.jpg>
:::
::Okay-let's try the photo again-
::
::
::
:
:
7/19/2011 5:58:08 PMcodefox(96443:96441)
Having a little trouble here, but tell me is the voice coil intact? and if so is it rubbing against the pole? And if so, have you banged and sucked out anything in the gap? If all is go, you may be able to either replace the whole cone, or possibly just patch it up with good old rubbber cement and paper towel shreads. When you get all done you can daub it all down with black paint so it doesn't show.
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::Sir Terry . . . . .
::::
::::
::::Mmmmmmm . . . ehhhh . . . What's up Doc ? . . . long see . . . . no time ?
::::
::::
::::I could only find a photo of a back cabinet view of an 18 -14 unit, any chance that the speakers are alike in the respect of using a square field coil basket and possibly are being about the same size ? . . . . . . . . . .
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::How about this possibility . . . . as it certainly looks like that unit has one substantial top on it.
::::
::::
::::Is it feasible to consider the possibility of mounting an upwards to maybe 2 inch thick by 6X6---8X8 square ? . . . vat you thinks ? . . . . hardwood block at the tops underside, with "scrue and glews" .
::::Then . . . in looking at that speaker . . . it appears that its front / to rear center of gravity will be occuring about three quarters of the way to the rear of the unit.
::::
::::
::::One then forms a right angle inverted square "U" bracket from sheet metal to then reach down and mount to the two sides of the speaker frame and fasten/screw/clamp . . . onto/into it.
::::
::::
::::The MAIN mechanical support of the speaker will THEN be accomplished with that mount, and the then transition of minimal dependence upon the 4 frontal mounting plate screws of the speaker proper.
::::
::::
::::Ultra flat black paint . . . OR . . .a matte coloring to the existing finish of the obscured inside bottom of the top, somewhat disguises the support mechanica presence
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::73's de Edd
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
:::::Terry: You'll have to post some pix for us to see when you are done. And sorry to hear about your injury. Hope there are no lasting effects Mark from Kalamazoo
:::::
::::
::::
:::Thanks edd. If I understand it, one of your suggestions is mounting a board inside the cabinet to support the weight of the field coil. That is the most sensible idea yet, and one I never would have thought of.
:::However, there's still the problem of the completely trashed cone.
:::< src=http://a4.l3-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/146/32b327c30a3c4115a96db5963f492789/m.jpg>
:::
::Okay-let's try the photo again-
::
::
::
:
:
7/20/2011 11:29:37 AMTerry Decker(96450:96443)
:Having a little trouble here, but tell me is the voice coil intact? and if so is it rubbing against the pole? And if so, have you banged and sucked out anything in the gap? If all is go, you may be able to either replace the whole cone, or possibly just patch it up with good old rubbber cement and paper towel shreads. When you get all done you can daub it all down with black paint so it doesn't show.
:
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
::::::Terry: You'll have to post some pix for us to see when you are done. And sorry to hear about your injury. Hope there are no lasting effects Mark from Kalamazoo
::::::
:::::
:::::
::::Thanks edd. If I understand it, one of your suggestions is mounting a board inside the cabinet to support the weight of the field coil. That is the most sensible idea yet, and one I never would have thought of.
::::However, there's still the problem of the completely trashed cone.
::::< src=http://a4.l3-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/146/32b327c30a3c4115a96db5963f492789/m.jpg>
::::
:::Okay-let's try the photo again-
:::
:::
:::
::
::
:
:
:
:::::
:::::
::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: :::::Sir Terry . . . . . ::::: ::::: :::::Mmmmmmm . . . ehhhh . . . What's up Doc ? . . . long see . . . . no time ? ::::: ::::: :::::I could only find a photo of a back cabinet view of an 18 -14 unit, any chance that the speakers are alike in the respect of using a square field coil basket and possibly are being about the same size ? . . . . . . . . . . ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: :::::How about this possibility . . . . as it certainly looks like that unit has one substantial top on it. ::::: ::::: :::::Is it feasible to consider the possibility of mounting an upwards to maybe 2 inch thick by 6X6---8X8 square ? . . . vat you thinks ? . . . . hardwood block at the tops underside, with "scrue and glews" . :::::Then . . . in looking at that speaker . . . it appears that its front / to rear center of gravity will be occuring about three quarters of the way to the rear of the unit. ::::: ::::: :::::One then forms a right angle inverted square "U" bracket from sheet metal to then reach down and mount to the two sides of the speaker frame and fasten/screw/clamp . . . onto/into it. ::::: ::::: :::::The MAIN mechanical support of the speaker will THEN be accomplished with that mount, and the then transition of minimal dependence upon the 4 frontal mounting plate screws of the speaker proper. ::::: ::::: :::::Ultra flat black paint . . . OR . . .a matte coloring to the existing finish of the obscured inside bottom of the top, somewhat disguises the support mechanica presence ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: :::::73's de Edd ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: |
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
::::::Terry: You'll have to post some pix for us to see when you are done. And sorry to hear about your injury. Hope there are no lasting effects Mark from Kalamazoo
::::::
:::::
:::::
::::Thanks edd. If I understand it, one of your suggestions is mounting a board inside the cabinet to support the weight of the field coil. That is the most sensible idea yet, and one I never would have thought of.
::::However, there's still the problem of the completely trashed cone.
::::< src=http://a4.l3-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/146/32b327c30a3c4115a96db5963f492789/m.jpg>
::::
:::Okay-let's try the photo again-
:::
:::
:::
::
::
:
:
7/20/2011 11:47:18 AMTerry Decker(96451:96450)
::Having a little trouble here, but tell me is the voice coil intact? and if so is it rubbing against the pole? And if so, have you banged and sucked out anything in the gap? If all is go, you may be able to either replace the whole cone, or possibly just patch it up with good old rubbber cement and paper towel shreads. When you get all done you can daub it all down with black paint so it doesn't show.
::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
:::::::Terry: You'll have to post some pix for us to see when you are done. And sorry to hear about your injury. Hope there are no lasting effects Mark from Kalamazoo
:::::::
::::::
::::::
:::::Thanks edd. If I understand it, one of your suggestions is mounting a board inside the cabinet to support the weight of the field coil. That is the most sensible idea yet, and one I never would have thought of.
:::::However, there's still the problem of the completely trashed cone.
:::::< src=http://a4.l3-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/146/32b327c30a3c4115a96db5963f492789/m.jpg>
:::::
::::Okay-let's try the photo again-
::::
::::
::::
:::
:::
::
::
:
:
Thanks.
I wish I had the steady hands for doing that. Also, the cone paper is so brittle and deteriorated that if you barely touch it the whole section comes out. I fear that trying to put anything on the cone would just cause that section to break away. My furniture guy is on vacation. When he gets back he's going to mount the front panel on the cabinet. I have an incredible backlog on the bench,(I've been sick) so testing will have to wait until the set is back together. I'm still leaning toward a PM speaker. I'm not trying to restore, just fix. This belonged to a friend. It was trashed during shipping and he gave it to me. It'll be mostly for display; but it'd be nice if it worked.
terry
::
::::::
::::::
:::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: ::::::Sir Terry . . . . . :::::: :::::: ::::::Mmmmmmm . . . ehhhh . . . What's up Doc ? . . . long see . . . . no time ? :::::: :::::: ::::::I could only find a photo of a back cabinet view of an 18 -14 unit, any chance that the speakers are alike in the respect of using a square field coil basket and possibly are being about the same size ? . . . . . . . . . . :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: ::::::How about this possibility . . . . as it certainly looks like that unit has one substantial top on it. :::::: :::::: ::::::Is it feasible to consider the possibility of mounting an upwards to maybe 2 inch thick by 6X6---8X8 square ? . . . vat you thinks ? . . . . hardwood block at the tops underside, with "scrue and glews" . ::::::Then . . . in looking at that speaker . . . it appears that its front / to rear center of gravity will be occuring about three quarters of the way to the rear of the unit. :::::: :::::: ::::::One then forms a right angle inverted square "U" bracket from sheet metal to then reach down and mount to the two sides of the speaker frame and fasten/screw/clamp . . . onto/into it. :::::: :::::: ::::::The MAIN mechanical support of the speaker will THEN be accomplished with that mount, and the then transition of minimal dependence upon the 4 frontal mounting plate screws of the speaker proper. :::::: :::::: ::::::Ultra flat black paint . . . OR . . .a matte coloring to the existing finish of the obscured inside bottom of the top, somewhat disguises the support mechanica presence :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: ::::::73's de Edd :::::: :::::: :::::: :::::: |
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
:::::::Terry: You'll have to post some pix for us to see when you are done. And sorry to hear about your injury. Hope there are no lasting effects Mark from Kalamazoo
:::::::
::::::
::::::
:::::Thanks edd. If I understand it, one of your suggestions is mounting a board inside the cabinet to support the weight of the field coil. That is the most sensible idea yet, and one I never would have thought of.
:::::However, there's still the problem of the completely trashed cone.
:::::< src=http://a4.l3-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/146/32b327c30a3c4115a96db5963f492789/m.jpg>
:::::
::::Okay-let's try the photo again-
::::
::::
::::
:::
:::
::
::
:
:
Thanks.
I wish I had the steady hands for doing that. Also, the cone paper is so brittle and deteriorated that if you barely touch it the whole section comes out. I fear that trying to put anything on the cone would just cause that section to break away. My furniture guy is on vacation. When he gets back he's going to mount the front panel on the cabinet. I have an incredible backlog on the bench,(I've been sick) so testing will have to wait until the set is back together. I'm still leaning toward a PM speaker. I'm not trying to restore, just fix. This belonged to a friend. It was trashed during shipping and he gave it to me. It'll be mostly for display; but it'd be nice if it worked.
terry