Uh Yeah - RUN AWAY from it. - Victor , Greybar , Westinghouse - GE , CGE - they are all the same - I have about 5 of those waiting their turn - and my buddies have several as well.
Distortion and low volume can come from several problems but likely its bad caps. Is it accompanied by crackling in the audio ? To really take care of the problem you need to recap it - problem is - bypass caps are located in a sealed can mounted on top of the chassis. And another can contains the audio transformers.
I did one of these a few years back - 12 hours straight to get it all done. Maybe I'll be faster on the next one.
The can is attached to the chassis with tabs (soldered) - had to remove the I.F. cans to get at them and use a microtorch to heat the solder - lots of wires to remove and mark somehow - make a detailed drawing of the underside of the chassis showing all wire connections before you start.
I don't remember offhand , but the CGE manual might have a chassis wiring diagram showing all the underside components and wiring - and that will help - but you'll have to figure out the values of the individual caps that are potted inside the can.
Great fun if you're up for a challenge !
: "Any suggestions?"
:
:Uh Yeah - RUN AWAY from it. - Victor , Greybar , Westinghouse - GE , CGE - they are all the same - I have about 5 of those waiting their turn - and my buddies have several as well.
: Distortion and low volume can come from several problems but likely its bad caps. Is it accompanied by crackling in the audio ? To really take care of the problem you need to recap it - problem is - bypass caps are located in a sealed can mounted on top of the chassis. And another can contains the audio transformers.
: I did one of these a few years back - 12 hours straight to get it all done. Maybe I'll be faster on the next one.
: The can is attached to the chassis with tabs (soldered) - had to remove the I.F. cans to get at them and use a microtorch to heat the solder - lots of wires to remove and mark somehow - make a detailed drawing of the underside of the chassis showing all wire connections before you start.
: I don't remember offhand , but the CGE manual might have a chassis wiring diagram showing all the underside components and wiring - and that will help - but you'll have to figure out the values of the individual caps that are potted inside the can.
: Great fun if you're up for a challenge !
:
:
Are there individual capacitors actually embedded in tar or wax in the can? How did you go about removing? Any advice most welcome.
:I think I met you at the OVRC auction last year? Sounds like you have a few ahead to do.
:I am afraid to open those cans but maybe someday.
:
:: "Any suggestions?"
::
::Uh Yeah - RUN AWAY from it. - Victor , Greybar , Westinghouse - GE , CGE - they are all the same - I have about 5 of those waiting their turn - and my buddies have several as well.
:: Distortion and low volume can come from several problems but likely its bad caps. Is it accompanied by crackling in the audio ? To really take care of the problem you need to recap it - problem is - bypass caps are located in a sealed can mounted on top of the chassis. And another can contains the audio transformers.
:: I did one of these a few years back - 12 hours straight to get it all done. Maybe I'll be faster on the next one.
:: The can is attached to the chassis with tabs (soldered) - had to remove the I.F. cans to get at them and use a microtorch to heat the solder - lots of wires to remove and mark somehow - make a detailed drawing of the underside of the chassis showing all wire connections before you start.
:: I don't remember offhand , but the CGE manual might have a chassis wiring diagram showing all the underside components and wiring - and that will help - but you'll have to figure out the values of the individual caps that are potted inside the can.
:: Great fun if you're up for a challenge !
::
::
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:Hi- "family guy" right ?
:Its been a long time - I either chipped the tar out or melted it - once you get to them - I don't think they have any markings - so you have to follow the connections back (mark all wires) to figure out their values . I mounted the new ones on multiple connection standoffs and then mounted the standoffs inside the box and then remounted the cans - I suppose you could just snip the wires off and mount new caps under the chassis - but there isn't really any room - and if the audio transformer is no good then there definitely isn't room for that under there.
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