The big electrolytic metal can on top of the chassis has two black neg wire and one red pos wire does this sound right? Hooked up two 4mfd 450v common positive and separate negatives turned it on and hisses and crackles????????

Hi Dustin

You must have them in correctly. If reversed caps would have heated and blown. Probably before the radio had a chance to crackle.

What model radio? Schematics for most radios are here on nostalgiaair.

Norm

:The big electrolytic metal can on top of the chassis has two black neg wire and one red pos wire does this sound right? Hooked up two 4mfd 450v common positive and separate negatives turned it on and hisses and crackles????????
:

:Hi Dustin
:
: You must have them in correctly. If reversed caps would have heated and blown. Probably before the radio had a chance to crackle.
:
: What model radio? Schematics for most radios are here on nostalgiaair.
:
:Norm
:
:
:
:
::The big electrolytic metal can on top of the chassis has two black neg wire and one red pos wire does this sound right? Hooked up two 4mfd 450v common positive and separate negatives turned it on and hisses and crackles????????
::
:
:

::Hi Dustin
::
:: You must have them in correctly. If reversed caps would have heated and blown. Probably before the radio had a chance to crackle.
::
:: What model radio? Schematics for most radios are here on nostalgiaair.
::
::Norm
::western auto supply los angeles model 17 I cant find any pictures of it or info on it. I think it might be another brand name under western auto supply.
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::
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:::The big electrolytic metal can on top of the chassis has two black neg wire and one red pos wire does this sound right? Hooked up two 4mfd 450v common positive and separate negatives turned it on and hisses and crackles????????
:::
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::
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:

Gilfillan Made some radios for Western Auto....
What's the tube line up?

Take a look at the Gilfillan 410 as an example. Might be close.
Sometimes you'll see a model number stamped on the back right of the metal chassis if it's a Gilfillan number.

:Gilfillan Made some radios for Western Auto....
:What's the tube line up?
:
:Take a look at the Gilfillan 410 as an example. Might be close.
:Sometimes you'll see a model number stamped on the back right of the metal chassis if it's a Gilfillan number.
:
:Just found it here! Its a western air patrol model 17. Great website. Still cant understand what is wrong I replaced all the caps and me being a novice in radio repair im stumped on two caps it calls for in the diagram c7 and c8. I believe they are the ones in the can on top of the chassis. Thanks for helping me out tonight.

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/560/M0023560.pdf

First off I would like to point out that what the schematic calls out as G2 should really be G1 for all tubes, and what is G1 should be G2. I am not sure why some early schematics are drawn in this way. Actually this is the first schematic in which I have seen G1 and G2 transposed, but I have seen schematics were G2 and G3 are transposed, and I believe that either G2 or G3 is shown surrounding the plate. I'm not sure. In reality some RF pentodes will have a shield around the plate that is tied to the supressor grid, but in the schematics I saw where they were transposed, this 'double grid,' if you will call it, was actually connected as G2 would have been connected.

Anyway, aside from that, C4 and C5 are sometimes prone to arcing, and will both cause crackling and possibly a complete absence of audio signal. C3 usually doesn't arc over due to the high impedances on both sides of the capacitor, but rather normally causes distortion and run-away current in the output tube. It could possibly arc over, though. C2 could arc, and would possibly wipe out reception if arcing was bad enough.

For reliable operation replace all of these capacitors. Also remember that what the schematic shows as G1 should be G2, and what the schematic shows as G2 should be G1. (...Though I could be completely wrong, and the set may in fact be wired exactly as the schematic shows, but in any other set the grids would be wired as I said... ....Normally connecting G1 to a positive voltage, especially in excess of 25, 45, or 200 volts, will cause the tube to run away with current.)

:http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/560/M0023560.pdf
:
:First off I would like to point out that what the schematic calls out as G2 should really be G1 for all tubes, and what is G1 should be G2. I am not sure why some early schematics are drawn in this way. Actually this is the first schematic in which I have seen G1 and G2 transposed, but I have seen schematics were G2 and G3 are transposed, and I believe that either G2 or G3 is shown surrounding the plate. I'm not sure. In reality some RF pentodes will have a shield around the plate that is tied to the supressor grid, but in the schematics I saw where they were transposed, this 'double grid,' if you will call it, was actually connected as G2 would have been connected.
:
:Anyway, aside from that, C4 and C5 are sometimes prone to arcing, and will both cause crackling and possibly a complete absence of audio signal. C3 usually doesn't arc over due to the high impedances on both sides of the capacitor, but rather normally causes distortion and run-away current in the output tube. It could possibly arc over, though. C2 could arc, and would possibly wipe out reception if arcing was bad enough.
:
:For reliable operation replace all of these capacitors. Also remember that what the schematic shows as G1 should be G2, and what the schematic shows as G2 should be G1. (...Though I could be completely wrong, and the set may in fact be wired exactly as the schematic shows, but in any other set the grids would be wired as I said... ....Normally connecting G1 to a positive voltage, especially in excess of 25, 45, or 200 volts, will cause the tube to run away with current.)
:
The 2A5 tube arcing!