Ok, so here's the scenario. I finally achieved a hum in the speaker. NOW, I only have a hum and the radio doesn't receive any thing. I have checked all the tubes and they are in good condition. I also know I need to check the Voltages in the tubes. I am learning how to read schematics so please be patient with me. Any one have any other ideas?? Will a resistor that's gone out of tolerence cause this???

There is a voltage pin out chart on the schematic. You do need to check for B+ .. Use a VOM from B- and test for the voltage listed.

I think that should be from B- bus. PL

:There is a voltage pin out chart on the schematic. You do need to check for B+ .. Use a VOM from B- and test for the voltage listed.
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If the set was damaged by water, there is a possibility for open coils due to corrosion, bad connections, and a whole lot of other stuff. If the set was wet recently, I'd make sure that coils, open capacitors, and tubes are all dry. Of course also check for open resistors and leaky capacitors. Resistors should be within value by about 20%. Capacitors usually do not change in value, but occasionally open up, and, if paper, often develop leakage. In low voltage low impedance circuits, this leakage, which is often in the millions of ohms, won't affect anything, but in high impedance circuits and/or high voltage circuits, this can cause all kinds of trouble. Electrolytic capacitors can dry up and become ineffective (causing the loud hum you sometimes hear from an old radio), or become leaky. Sometimes the leakage can be cured by reforming, and sometimes they are beyond repair. The safest bet is to replace, but I have had quite a bit of luck with reforming many old electrolytics.

Once you get the hang of things, you'll find that most sets are quite conventional in design, and that there is a straight-forward methodical approach to troubleshooting a radio from one end to the other, but they can still be a nightmare when you run into things like water damage. My Philco 60 was soaked in a flood, which is how I was able to find it at the curbside. This destroyed the power transformer (and the cabinet). The oscillator coil opened up, but this seems to be a common problem even without water damage. The output transformer was also open, but the tone capacitor was shorted, and may have been the cause. Luckily I was able to salvage all of the other coils, including the field coil, and, as luck would have it, a larger, but still capable of mounting, power transformer was for sale at American Science and Surplus for only $9.50. It works great without even getting warm!

T.

In my previous reply I mentioned making sure that 'open' capacitors are dry, and to check for 'open' resistors. This was poor wording on my part. What I meant by 'open' for capacitors is a capacitor whose plates are exposed (variable capacitors, mostly) and not encapsulated in mica or cardboard/wax, but did not mean capacitors whose electrical connection has opened.

On the other hand, when referring to 'open' resistors, I was, in fact, referring to resistors whose electrical circuit had opened.

T.