Thanks to invalualble input from this forum, I was able to get the 'devil radio' (the Airline 62-316) up and running--the problem turned out to be a faulty 'Micamold' capacitor. The radio now works great on all 3 bands.
I have seen several 316s which have had a period retrofit of a 'tuning eye' (they did not come with this originally). For aesthetic reasons I'd like to add one as well.
I have an original Amphenol Magic Eye assembly, complete with the appropriate escutcheon and attaching parts.
To the specifics. I am using an NOS 6E5 6-prong tuning eye tube in the assembly. I have a tuning tube socket as well (cannibalised from a donor chassis). The socket has a 6 wire harness coming out of it: yellow, white, blue, green, red, black. The Amphenol instruction sheet is as follows: "Wiring instructions. RED WIRE-Connect to "B"plus, from 200 to 250 volts. BLACK WIRE-Connect or chassis or to ground. GREEN AND BLUE WIRES-Connect to the filament terminals of any tube socket except the rectifier. YELLOW WIRE--In most installations the yellow wire can be connected directly to the diode load. If Eye remains closed or shows only slight actions, disconnect the yellow wire and connect as instructed in the border"; there are wiring instructions for using the tube as a tuning eye on the right hand border of the Instructions.
I've connected red to a B+ terminal on the speaker socket in the chassis (which reads 195VDC). The black is to the chassis. The green and black (should they be connected together) are linked to pin 4 of the 6Q7 'Duplex Diode Triode Second Detector, AVC and First Audio'. The voltage @ pin 4 is 6.5VDC, which I assuming is the 'filament'. Would I be right about the latter?
The tube does not light up at all. I'd be very grateful for any advice as to where to attach the yellow wire (there is no mention of the white wire anywhere in the instructions). The instructions mention that if the yellow wire does not produce tuning functionality, it can be connected 'at any place in the AVC network'.
I'm not sure what connecting directly to 'diode load' means. Also, I might be going the wrong thing by running the filament voltage (for the blue and green wires) off the same pin of the same tube; if the 6Q7 is in fact the 'direct diode load', I'd be running the yellow wire off that tube as well. And what about the white wire?
As always, thanks in advance for your help.
Cheers,
Leslie
Best to trace wires with an ohm meter. Pin #1 and #6 are filament. Should have 6.3 volts between these. Pin #4 is cathode and should ground to chassis. It may be the same as pin #1 or #4, depending on your radio.
Pin #2 is plate of the eye tube. It should have a 1 meg resistor connecting to pin #4. This resistor is often built into the socket. No other wire should be on this pin.
Pin #3 is AVC and goes to line which is negative on strong stations.
Pin #4 is target and needs to have B+, around 250 volts would be best.
Norm
:Hello All,
:
:Thanks to invalualble input from this forum, I was able to get the 'devil radio' (the Airline 62-316) up and running--the problem turned out to be a faulty 'Micamold' capacitor. The radio now works great on all 3 bands.
:
:I have seen several 316s which have had a period retrofit of a 'tuning eye' (they did not come with this originally). For aesthetic reasons I'd like to add one as well.
:
:I have an original Amphenol Magic Eye assembly, complete with the appropriate escutcheon and attaching parts.
:
:To the specifics. I am using an NOS 6E5 6-prong tuning eye tube in the assembly. I have a tuning tube socket as well (cannibalised from a donor chassis). The socket has a 6 wire harness coming out of it: yellow, white, blue, green, red, black. The Amphenol instruction sheet is as follows: "Wiring instructions. RED WIRE-Connect to "B"plus, from 200 to 250 volts. BLACK WIRE-Connect or chassis or to ground. GREEN AND BLUE WIRES-Connect to the filament terminals of any tube socket except the rectifier. YELLOW WIRE--In most installations the yellow wire can be connected directly to the diode load. If Eye remains closed or shows only slight actions, disconnect the yellow wire and connect as instructed in the border"; there are wiring instructions for using the tube as a tuning eye on the right hand border of the Instructions.
:
:I've connected red to a B+ terminal on the speaker socket in the chassis (which reads 195VDC). The black is to the chassis. The green and black (should they be connected together) are linked to pin 4 of the 6Q7 'Duplex Diode Triode Second Detector, AVC and First Audio'. The voltage @ pin 4 is 6.5VDC, which I assuming is the 'filament'. Would I be right about the latter?
:
:The tube does not light up at all. I'd be very grateful for any advice as to where to attach the yellow wire (there is no mention of the white wire anywhere in the instructions). The instructions mention that if the yellow wire does not produce tuning functionality, it can be connected 'at any place in the AVC network'.
:
:I'm not sure what connecting directly to 'diode load' means. Also, I might be going the wrong thing by running the filament voltage (for the blue and green wires) off the same pin of the same tube; if the 6Q7 is in fact the 'direct diode load', I'd be running the yellow wire off that tube as well. And what about the white wire?
:
:As always, thanks in advance for your help.
:
:Cheers,
:
:Leslie
:
Thanks. I'll check out the continuity of the wires on the Magic Eye socket I took from the 'donor chassis'--I can't vouch for the 1 MEG resistor but I'll test it and see.
The B+ in the Airline 62-316 is around 205VDC at full (spec. 210VDC I think), which I hope would be enough to light up the 6E5.
If, having tested out the wires on the socket, all is OK, I'll just be puzzling over where these wires connect to the tube sockets/terminals in the 61-316 chassis; particularly there is no mention in the Instructions as to where the white wire from the Magic Eye socket goes.
Cheers,
Leslie
:Hi Leslie
:
: Best to trace wires with an ohm meter. Pin #1 and #6 are filament. Should have 6.3 volts between these. Pin #4 is cathode and should ground to chassis. It may be the same as pin #1 or #4, depending on your radio.
:
: Pin #2 is plate of the eye tube. It should have a 1 meg resistor connecting to pin #4. This resistor is often built into the socket. No other wire should be on this pin.
:
: Pin #3 is AVC and goes to line which is negative on strong stations.
:
: Pin #4 is target and needs to have B+, around 250 volts would be best.
:
:Norm
:
::Hello All,
::
::Thanks to invalualble input from this forum, I was able to get the 'devil radio' (the Airline 62-316) up and running--the problem turned out to be a faulty 'Micamold' capacitor. The radio now works great on all 3 bands.
::
::I have seen several 316s which have had a period retrofit of a 'tuning eye' (they did not come with this originally). For aesthetic reasons I'd like to add one as well.
::
::I have an original Amphenol Magic Eye assembly, complete with the appropriate escutcheon and attaching parts.
::
::To the specifics. I am using an NOS 6E5 6-prong tuning eye tube in the assembly. I have a tuning tube socket as well (cannibalised from a donor chassis). The socket has a 6 wire harness coming out of it: yellow, white, blue, green, red, black. The Amphenol instruction sheet is as follows: "Wiring instructions. RED WIRE-Connect to "B"plus, from 200 to 250 volts. BLACK WIRE-Connect or chassis or to ground. GREEN AND BLUE WIRES-Connect to the filament terminals of any tube socket except the rectifier. YELLOW WIRE--In most installations the yellow wire can be connected directly to the diode load. If Eye remains closed or shows only slight actions, disconnect the yellow wire and connect as instructed in the border"; there are wiring instructions for using the tube as a tuning eye on the right hand border of the Instructions.
::
::I've connected red to a B+ terminal on the speaker socket in the chassis (which reads 195VDC). The black is to the chassis. The green and black (should they be connected together) are linked to pin 4 of the 6Q7 'Duplex Diode Triode Second Detector, AVC and First Audio'. The voltage @ pin 4 is 6.5VDC, which I assuming is the 'filament'. Would I be right about the latter?
::
::The tube does not light up at all. I'd be very grateful for any advice as to where to attach the yellow wire (there is no mention of the white wire anywhere in the instructions). The instructions mention that if the yellow wire does not produce tuning functionality, it can be connected 'at any place in the AVC network'.
::
::I'm not sure what connecting directly to 'diode load' means. Also, I might be going the wrong thing by running the filament voltage (for the blue and green wires) off the same pin of the same tube; if the 6Q7 is in fact the 'direct diode load', I'd be running the yellow wire off that tube as well. And what about the white wire?
::
::As always, thanks in advance for your help.
::
::Cheers,
::
::Leslie
::
:
:
If the filament is lit, ground is on pin #5 and B+ on pin #4 you should see green. With lower voltage you will still see green glow but not as bright. Many used tubes will be very dim.
I typed the wrong number in the earlier post. Cathode, ground, is Pin #5 not 4.
Norm
:HI NORM,
:
:Thanks. I'll check out the continuity of the wires on the Magic Eye socket I took from the 'donor chassis'--I can't vouch for the 1 MEG resistor but I'll test it and see.
:
:The B+ in the Airline 62-316 is around 205VDC at full (spec. 210VDC I think), which I hope would be enough to light up the 6E5.
:
:If, having tested out the wires on the socket, all is OK, I'll just be puzzling over where these wires connect to the tube sockets/terminals in the 61-316 chassis; particularly there is no mention in the Instructions as to where the white wire from the Magic Eye socket goes.
:
:Cheers,
:
:Leslie
:
:
:
::Hi Leslie
::
:: Best to trace wires with an ohm meter. Pin #1 and #6 are filament. Should have 6.3 volts between these. Pin #4 is cathode and should ground to chassis. It may be the same as pin #1 or #4, depending on your radio.
::
:: Pin #2 is plate of the eye tube. It should have a 1 meg resistor connecting to pin #4. This resistor is often built into the socket. No other wire should be on this pin.
::
:: Pin #3 is AVC and goes to line which is negative on strong stations.
::
:: Pin #4 is target and needs to have B+, around 250 volts would be best.
::
::Norm
::
:::Hello All,
:::
:::Thanks to invalualble input from this forum, I was able to get the 'devil radio' (the Airline 62-316) up and running--the problem turned out to be a faulty 'Micamold' capacitor. The radio now works great on all 3 bands.
:::
:::I have seen several 316s which have had a period retrofit of a 'tuning eye' (they did not come with this originally). For aesthetic reasons I'd like to add one as well.
:::
:::I have an original Amphenol Magic Eye assembly, complete with the appropriate escutcheon and attaching parts.
:::
:::To the specifics. I am using an NOS 6E5 6-prong tuning eye tube in the assembly. I have a tuning tube socket as well (cannibalised from a donor chassis). The socket has a 6 wire harness coming out of it: yellow, white, blue, green, red, black. The Amphenol instruction sheet is as follows: "Wiring instructions. RED WIRE-Connect to "B"plus, from 200 to 250 volts. BLACK WIRE-Connect or chassis or to ground. GREEN AND BLUE WIRES-Connect to the filament terminals of any tube socket except the rectifier. YELLOW WIRE--In most installations the yellow wire can be connected directly to the diode load. If Eye remains closed or shows only slight actions, disconnect the yellow wire and connect as instructed in the border"; there are wiring instructions for using the tube as a tuning eye on the right hand border of the Instructions.
:::
:::I've connected red to a B+ terminal on the speaker socket in the chassis (which reads 195VDC). The black is to the chassis. The green and black (should they be connected together) are linked to pin 4 of the 6Q7 'Duplex Diode Triode Second Detector, AVC and First Audio'. The voltage @ pin 4 is 6.5VDC, which I assuming is the 'filament'. Would I be right about the latter?
:::
:::The tube does not light up at all. I'd be very grateful for any advice as to where to attach the yellow wire (there is no mention of the white wire anywhere in the instructions). The instructions mention that if the yellow wire does not produce tuning functionality, it can be connected 'at any place in the AVC network'.
:::
:::I'm not sure what connecting directly to 'diode load' means. Also, I might be going the wrong thing by running the filament voltage (for the blue and green wires) off the same pin of the same tube; if the 6Q7 is in fact the 'direct diode load', I'd be running the yellow wire off that tube as well. And what about the white wire?
:::
:::As always, thanks in advance for your help.
:::
:::Cheers,
:::
:::Leslie
:::
::
::
:
:
I've looked at the socket from the donor chassis and (of course) it has no 1Meg resistor between any of the pins--I guess the resistor would have been in the chassis circuitry itself rather than on the socket. A couple of questions.
i) Which pins would the resistor connect?
ii) How can one tell the numbers of a Magic Eye tube such as the 6E5. I know how to do this with ordinary tubes that use a protruding 'tab' on the bottom centre connector, the 6E5 doesn't have one.
I have noticed a tiny arrow at the bottom of the 6E5 pointing to the outside edge of the bakelite base, and wonder if that serves (for prong identification purposes) in place of the mounting tab.
The 6E5 has two adjacent prongs that are larger than the other four.
Cheers, and thanks for spending part of President's Day online :o)
:Hi Leslie
:
: If the filament is lit, ground is on pin #5 and B+ on pin #4 you should see green. With lower voltage you will still see green glow but not as bright. Many used tubes will be very dim.
:
: I typed the wrong number in the earlier post. Cathode, ground, is Pin #5 not 4.
:
:Norm
:
:
:
::HI NORM,
::
::Thanks. I'll check out the continuity of the wires on the Magic Eye socket I took from the 'donor chassis'--I can't vouch for the 1 MEG resistor but I'll test it and see.
::
::The B+ in the Airline 62-316 is around 205VDC at full (spec. 210VDC I think), which I hope would be enough to light up the 6E5.
::
::If, having tested out the wires on the socket, all is OK, I'll just be puzzling over where these wires connect to the tube sockets/terminals in the 61-316 chassis; particularly there is no mention in the Instructions as to where the white wire from the Magic Eye socket goes.
::
::Cheers,
::
::Leslie
::
::
::
:::Hi Leslie
:::
::: Best to trace wires with an ohm meter. Pin #1 and #6 are filament. Should have 6.3 volts between these. Pin #4 is cathode and should ground to chassis. It may be the same as pin #1 or #4, depending on your radio.
:::
::: Pin #2 is plate of the eye tube. It should have a 1 meg resistor connecting to pin #4. This resistor is often built into the socket. No other wire should be on this pin.
:::
::: Pin #3 is AVC and goes to line which is negative on strong stations.
:::
::: Pin #4 is target and needs to have B+, around 250 volts would be best.
:::
:::Norm
:::
::::Hello All,
::::
::::Thanks to invalualble input from this forum, I was able to get the 'devil radio' (the Airline 62-316) up and running--the problem turned out to be a faulty 'Micamold' capacitor. The radio now works great on all 3 bands.
::::
::::I have seen several 316s which have had a period retrofit of a 'tuning eye' (they did not come with this originally). For aesthetic reasons I'd like to add one as well.
::::
::::I have an original Amphenol Magic Eye assembly, complete with the appropriate escutcheon and attaching parts.
::::
::::To the specifics. I am using an NOS 6E5 6-prong tuning eye tube in the assembly. I have a tuning tube socket as well (cannibalised from a donor chassis). The socket has a 6 wire harness coming out of it: yellow, white, blue, green, red, black. The Amphenol instruction sheet is as follows: "Wiring instructions. RED WIRE-Connect to "B"plus, from 200 to 250 volts. BLACK WIRE-Connect or chassis or to ground. GREEN AND BLUE WIRES-Connect to the filament terminals of any tube socket except the rectifier. YELLOW WIRE--In most installations the yellow wire can be connected directly to the diode load. If Eye remains closed or shows only slight actions, disconnect the yellow wire and connect as instructed in the border"; there are wiring instructions for using the tube as a tuning eye on the right hand border of the Instructions.
::::
::::I've connected red to a B+ terminal on the speaker socket in the chassis (which reads 195VDC). The black is to the chassis. The green and black (should they be connected together) are linked to pin 4 of the 6Q7 'Duplex Diode Triode Second Detector, AVC and First Audio'. The voltage @ pin 4 is 6.5VDC, which I assuming is the 'filament'. Would I be right about the latter?
::::
::::The tube does not light up at all. I'd be very grateful for any advice as to where to attach the yellow wire (there is no mention of the white wire anywhere in the instructions). The instructions mention that if the yellow wire does not produce tuning functionality, it can be connected 'at any place in the AVC network'.
::::
::::I'm not sure what connecting directly to 'diode load' means. Also, I might be going the wrong thing by running the filament voltage (for the blue and green wires) off the same pin of the same tube; if the 6Q7 is in fact the 'direct diode load', I'd be running the yellow wire off that tube as well. And what about the white wire?
::::
::::As always, thanks in advance for your help.
::::
::::Cheers,
::::
::::Leslie
::::
:::
:::
::
::
:
:
Often the resistor is built into a socket and open. You can add a 1 meg between pin #2 and #4.
To count pins look at a tube from the bottom. Two large pins toward you. Pin #1 is on the left counting clockwise to pin #6, other large pin.
Norm
:Hi Norm,
:
:I've looked at the socket from the donor chassis and (of course) it has no 1Meg resistor between any of the pins--I guess the resistor would have been in the chassis circuitry itself rather than on the socket. A couple of questions.
:
:i) Which pins would the resistor connect?
:ii) How can one tell the numbers of a Magic Eye tube such as the 6E5. I know how to do this with ordinary tubes that use a protruding 'tab' on the bottom centre connector, the 6E5 doesn't have one.
:
:I have noticed a tiny arrow at the bottom of the 6E5 pointing to the outside edge of the bakelite base, and wonder if that serves (for prong identification purposes) in place of the mounting tab.
:
:The 6E5 has two adjacent prongs that are larger than the other four.
:
:Cheers, and thanks for spending part of President's Day online :o)
:
::Hi Leslie
::
:: If the filament is lit, ground is on pin #5 and B+ on pin #4 you should see green. With lower voltage you will still see green glow but not as bright. Many used tubes will be very dim.
::
:: I typed the wrong number in the earlier post. Cathode, ground, is Pin #5 not 4.
::
::Norm
::
::
::
:::HI NORM,
:::
:::Thanks. I'll check out the continuity of the wires on the Magic Eye socket I took from the 'donor chassis'--I can't vouch for the 1 MEG resistor but I'll test it and see.
:::
:::The B+ in the Airline 62-316 is around 205VDC at full (spec. 210VDC I think), which I hope would be enough to light up the 6E5.
:::
:::If, having tested out the wires on the socket, all is OK, I'll just be puzzling over where these wires connect to the tube sockets/terminals in the 61-316 chassis; particularly there is no mention in the Instructions as to where the white wire from the Magic Eye socket goes.
:::
:::Cheers,
:::
:::Leslie
:::
:::
:::
::::Hi Leslie
::::
:::: Best to trace wires with an ohm meter. Pin #1 and #6 are filament. Should have 6.3 volts between these. Pin #4 is cathode and should ground to chassis. It may be the same as pin #1 or #4, depending on your radio.
::::
:::: Pin #2 is plate of the eye tube. It should have a 1 meg resistor connecting to pin #4. This resistor is often built into the socket. No other wire should be on this pin.
::::
:::: Pin #3 is AVC and goes to line which is negative on strong stations.
::::
:::: Pin #4 is target and needs to have B+, around 250 volts would be best.
::::
::::Norm
::::
:::::Hello All,
:::::
:::::Thanks to invalualble input from this forum, I was able to get the 'devil radio' (the Airline 62-316) up and running--the problem turned out to be a faulty 'Micamold' capacitor. The radio now works great on all 3 bands.
:::::
:::::I have seen several 316s which have had a period retrofit of a 'tuning eye' (they did not come with this originally). For aesthetic reasons I'd like to add one as well.
:::::
:::::I have an original Amphenol Magic Eye assembly, complete with the appropriate escutcheon and attaching parts.
:::::
:::::To the specifics. I am using an NOS 6E5 6-prong tuning eye tube in the assembly. I have a tuning tube socket as well (cannibalised from a donor chassis). The socket has a 6 wire harness coming out of it: yellow, white, blue, green, red, black. The Amphenol instruction sheet is as follows: "Wiring instructions. RED WIRE-Connect to "B"plus, from 200 to 250 volts. BLACK WIRE-Connect or chassis or to ground. GREEN AND BLUE WIRES-Connect to the filament terminals of any tube socket except the rectifier. YELLOW WIRE--In most installations the yellow wire can be connected directly to the diode load. If Eye remains closed or shows only slight actions, disconnect the yellow wire and connect as instructed in the border"; there are wiring instructions for using the tube as a tuning eye on the right hand border of the Instructions.
:::::
:::::I've connected red to a B+ terminal on the speaker socket in the chassis (which reads 195VDC). The black is to the chassis. The green and black (should they be connected together) are linked to pin 4 of the 6Q7 'Duplex Diode Triode Second Detector, AVC and First Audio'. The voltage @ pin 4 is 6.5VDC, which I assuming is the 'filament'. Would I be right about the latter?
:::::
:::::The tube does not light up at all. I'd be very grateful for any advice as to where to attach the yellow wire (there is no mention of the white wire anywhere in the instructions). The instructions mention that if the yellow wire does not produce tuning functionality, it can be connected 'at any place in the AVC network'.
:::::
:::::I'm not sure what connecting directly to 'diode load' means. Also, I might be going the wrong thing by running the filament voltage (for the blue and green wires) off the same pin of the same tube; if the 6Q7 is in fact the 'direct diode load', I'd be running the yellow wire off that tube as well. And what about the white wire?
:::::
:::::As always, thanks in advance for your help.
:::::
:::::Cheers,
:::::
:::::Leslie
:::::
::::
::::
:::
:::
::
::
:
:
Leslie:
The tuning tuning eye is a vacuum tube Voltmeter connected across the AVC line. You should be able to look at other schematics and find out the correct Voltage for the plate of the triode, and the other Voltages. A big source of trouble in these things is the one meg. resistor that is located on the tube socket. A VTVM connected to the AVC will indicate the strength of the received station, and this is what works the eye tube. You need Voltage on the target of the eye tube, as it works somewhat like a CRT. I wish radios had tuning indicators today. As a youngster, I loved to watch the eye tube open and close as you tuned in a staton.
Lewis
::
:
:
Thanks for that. I love the Magic Eye tubes as well, and several of my sets have them. I remember as a child watching the eye of an Deforest Crosly floor model (c. 1938 I'm guessing; my father said that he heard the news broadcasts about the sinking of the Graf Spee on it in 1939). Anyway, I really liked the way the eye would open and close as stations were tuned in and out.
Cheers,
Leslie
::Hi Leslie
::
:: Best to trace wires with an ohm meter. Pin #1 and #6 are filament. Should have 6.3 volts between these. Pin #4 is cathode and should ground to chassis. It may be the same as pin #1 or #4, depending on your radio.
::
:: Pin #2 is plate of the eye tube. It should have a 1 meg resistor connecting to pin #4. This resistor is often built into the socket. No other wire should be on this pin.
::
:: Pin #3 is AVC and goes to line which is negative on strong stations.
::
:: Pin #4 is target and needs to have B+, around 250 volts would be best.
::
::Norm
::
:::Hello All,
:::
:::Thanks to invalualble input from this forum, I was able to get the 'devil radio' (the Airline 62-316) up and running--the problem turned out to be a faulty 'Micamold' capacitor. The radio now works great on all 3 bands.
:::
:::I have seen several 316s which have had a period retrofit of a 'tuning eye' (they did not come with this originally). For aesthetic reasons I'd like to add one as well.
:::
:::I have an original Amphenol Magic Eye assembly, complete with the appropriate escutcheon and attaching parts.
:::
:::To the specifics. I am using an NOS 6E5 6-prong tuning eye tube in the assembly. I have a tuning tube socket as well (cannibalised from a donor chassis). The socket has a 6 wire harness coming out of it: yellow, white, blue, green, red, black. The Amphenol instruction sheet is as follows: "Wiring instructions. RED WIRE-Connect to "B"plus, from 200 to 250 volts. BLACK WIRE-Connect or chassis or to ground. GREEN AND BLUE WIRES-Connect to the filament terminals of any tube socket except the rectifier. YELLOW WIRE--In most installations the yellow wire can be connected directly to the diode load. If Eye remains closed or shows only slight actions, disconnect the yellow wire and connect as instructed in the border"; there are wiring instructions for using the tube as a tuning eye on the right hand border of the Instructions.
:::
:::I've connected red to a B+ terminal on the speaker socket in the chassis (which reads 195VDC). The black is to the chassis. The green and black (should they be connected together) are linked to pin 4 of the 6Q7 'Duplex Diode Triode Second Detector, AVC and First Audio'. The voltage @ pin 4 is 6.5VDC, which I assuming is the 'filament'. Would I be right about the latter?
:::
:::The tube does not light up at all. I'd be very grateful for any advice as to where to attach the yellow wire (there is no mention of the white wire anywhere in the instructions). The instructions mention that if the yellow wire does not produce tuning functionality, it can be connected 'at any place in the AVC network'.
:::
:::I'm not sure what connecting directly to 'diode load' means. Also, I might be going the wrong thing by running the filament voltage (for the blue and green wires) off the same pin of the same tube; if the 6Q7 is in fact the 'direct diode load', I'd be running the yellow wire off that tube as well. And what about the white wire?
:::
:::As always, thanks in advance for your help.
:::
:::Cheers,
:::
:::Leslie
:
:Leslie:
:The tuning tuning eye is a vacuum tube Voltmeter connected across the AVC line. You should be able to look at other schematics and find out the correct Voltage for the plate of the triode, and the other Voltages. A big source of trouble in these things is the one meg. resistor that is located on the tube socket. A VTVM connected to the AVC will indicate the strength of the received station, and this is what works the eye tube. You need Voltage on the target of the eye tube, as it works somewhat like a CRT. I wish radios had tuning indicators today. As a youngster, I loved to watch the eye tube open and close as you tuned in a staton.
:Lewis
:
:
:
:
:::
::
::
:
: