Any ideas???
:Any ideas???
:
Which resistor? A 10 watt resistor will run hot. If you have 130 volts across a 2.7K resistor it's dissipating 6.25 watts. Still within rating but it will be hot.
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/052/M0015052.pdf
Norm
::I have an RCA 612V3 chassis ans my power supply voltage of 100VDC is running at 125-130VDC and is cooking my power resistor 2,7K 10W. New power caps and all power resistors check out in value. Set works again but as I said, cooking power resistor. Have checked V1...2...3 in tuner chassis and all seems well.
::Any ideas???
::
:
:
I'm sorry...what I meant to say was-pin 2 on the power supply socket should be 100VDC and is running at 125-130 VDC. The 2760/10W resistor...one side goes to pins 4 of the output tubes and the other goes to the 16 uf power cap in parallel with 2520/10W power resistor.
The voltage drop across the 2760/10W resistor is only 140 VDC. There is of course a AC component but I'm discounting this, because it's the DC component that the schematics address
BTW..the + side of the 15uf power cap that connents to the spkr field is normal at 270 VDC.
I just can't figgur out whats causing the socket pin #2 voltage to operate at 130VDC when all downstream seems normal. It's cooking the 2760/10/w power resistor and eventually burns it out
H>>>E>>>L>>>P
If voltage is high resistor should run cooloer. It drops 270 volts down to 100 in the schematic. Your radio is only dropping voltage to 130. In the schematic there is 170 volts across the resistor . You have 140. A 10 watt resistor will be hot but should not burn out.
Could R1B be open, 2520 ohms to ground?
Norm
:thanks Norm
:I'm sorry...what I meant to say was-pin 2 on the power supply socket should be 100VDC and is running at 125-130 VDC. The 2760/10W resistor...one side goes to pins 4 of the output tubes and the other goes to the 16 uf power cap in parallel with 2520/10W power resistor.
:The voltage drop across the 2760/10W resistor is only 140 VDC. There is of course a AC component but I'm discounting this, because it's the DC component that the schematics address
:BTW..the + side of the 15uf power cap that connents to the spkr field is normal at 270 VDC.
:I just can't figgur out whats causing the socket pin #2 voltage to operate at 130VDC when all downstream seems normal. It's cooking the 2760/10/w power resistor and eventually burns it out
:H>>>E>>>L>>>P
:
:
:
|
:Steve ::thanks Norm
:
: If voltage is high resistor should run cooloer. It drops 270 volts down to 100 in the schematic. Your radio is only dropping voltage to 130. In the schematic there is 170 volts across the resistor . You have 140. A 10 watt resistor will be hot but should not burn out.
:
: Could R1B be open, 2520 ohms to ground?
:
:Norm
:
::I'm sorry...what I meant to say was-pin 2 on the power supply socket should be 100VDC and is running at 125-130 VDC. The 2760/10W resistor...one side goes to pins 4 of the output tubes and the other goes to the 16 uf power cap in parallel with 2520/10W power resistor.
::The voltage drop across the 2760/10W resistor is only 140 VDC. There is of course a AC component but I'm discounting this, because it's the DC component that the schematics address
::BTW..the + side of the 15uf power cap that connents to the spkr field is normal at 270 VDC.
::I just can't figgur out whats causing the socket pin #2 voltage to operate at 130VDC when all downstream seems normal. It's cooking the 2760/10/w power resistor and eventually burns it out
::H>>>E>>>L>>>P
::
::
::
:
:
:
: : : :  : : : : : : : : :Sir Steve. . . . . : : :That other companion resistor of that functioning voltage/divider pair to ground would be the first suspect. : : :On the 100 v feed to the tuner plug, check the 1k, 27 k and 4.7 k resistors that supply tubes voltages thru them, along with that C43 .005 bypass to ground . : : :Are any of the resistors colorized from overload ? Thanks Ed... : : : :  : |
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
::Steve
::
:: If voltage is high resistor should run cooloer. It drops 270 volts down to 100 in the schematic. Your radio is only dropping voltage to 130. In the schematic there is 170 volts across the resistor . You have 140. A 10 watt resistor will be hot but should not burn out.
::
:: Could R1B be open, 2520 ohms to ground?
::
::Norm
::
:
:
:::thanks Norm
:::I'm sorry...what I meant to say was-pin 2 on the power supply socket should be 100VDC and is running at 125-130 VDC. The 2760/10W resistor...one side goes to pins 4 of the output tubes and the other goes to the 16 uf power cap in parallel with 2520/10W power resistor.
:::The voltage drop across the 2760/10W resistor is only 140 VDC. There is of course a AC component but I'm discounting this, because it's the DC component that the schematics address
:::BTW..the + side of the 15uf power cap that connents to the spkr field is normal at 270 VDC.
:::I just can't figgur out whats causing the socket pin #2 voltage to operate at 130VDC when all downstream seems normal. It's cooking the 2760/10/w power resistor and eventually burns it out
:::H>>>E>>>L>>>P
:::
:::
:::
::
::
:
:
:
: If voltage is high resistor should run cooloer. It drops 270 volts down to 100 in the schematic. Your radio is only dropping voltage to 130. In the schematic there is 170 volts across the resistor . You have 140. A 10 watt resistor will be hot but should not burn out.
:
: Could R1B be open, 2520 ohms to ground?
Norm...
I've speced out that particular part until I'm blue in the face...'cause over the years, I've had to replace most of the power supply...heat and all that kinda stuff. But yup, R1B checks out...
riddle me this...if I have a shorting cap, say w/ excessive current draw[i.e. hot resistor]...shouldn't the voltage go down, not up???
I'm probably loosing it...but...With solid state technology...if the problem aint fixed the circuit won't work... but OH NO, not w/ tube tech.
Thanks again...
Steve
:
:Norm
:
::thanks Norm
::I'm sorry...what I meant to say was-pin 2 on the power supply socket should be 100VDC and is running at 125-130 VDC. The 2760/10W resistor...one side goes to pins 4 of the output tubes and the other goes to the 16 uf power cap in parallel with 2520/10W power resistor.
::The voltage drop across the 2760/10W resistor is only 140 VDC. There is of course a AC component but I'm discounting this, because it's the DC component that the schematics address
::BTW..the + side of the 15uf power cap that connents to the spkr field is normal at 270 VDC.
::I just can't figgur out whats causing the socket pin #2 voltage to operate at 130VDC when all downstream seems normal. It's cooking the 2760/10/w power resistor and eventually burns it out
::H>>>E>>>L>>>P
::
::
::
:
:
Who could ignore that poignant plea of . . .H>>>E>>>L>>>P ? . . . now . . DON'T crash and burn on us, just yet ! Could you take measurements and come back with the following info, with all of them being in the close proximity of the "problem" |
::Norm
::Steve
::
:: If voltage is high resistor should run cooloer. It drops 270 volts down to 100 in the schematic. Your radio is only dropping voltage to 130. In the schematic there is 170 volts across the resistor . You have 140. A 10 watt resistor will be hot but should not burn out.
::
:: Could R1B be open, 2520 ohms to ground?
:
:Norm...
:I've speced out that particular part until I'm blue in the face...'cause over the years, I've had to replace most of the power supply...heat and all that kinda stuff. But yup, R1B checks out...
:riddle me this...if I have a shorting cap, say w/ excessive current draw[i.e. hot resistor]...shouldn't the voltage go down, not up???
:I'm probably loosing it...but...With solid state technology...if the problem aint fixed the circuit won't work... but OH NO, not w/ tube tech.
:Thanks again...
:Steve
::
::
:::thanks Norm
:::I'm sorry...what I meant to say was-pin 2 on the power supply socket should be 100VDC and is running at 125-130 VDC. The 2760/10W resistor...one side goes to pins 4 of the output tubes and the other goes to the 16 uf power cap in parallel with 2520/10W power resistor.
:::The voltage drop across the 2760/10W resistor is only 140 VDC. There is of course a AC component but I'm discounting this, because it's the DC component that the schematics address
:::BTW..the + side of the 15uf power cap that connents to the spkr field is normal at 270 VDC.
:::I just can't figgur out whats causing the socket pin #2 voltage to operate at 130VDC when all downstream seems normal. It's cooking the 2760/10/w power resistor and eventually burns it out
:::H>>>E>>>L>>>P
:::
:::
:::
::
::
:
:
:
: : : : : : : : : : : : :Sir Steve . . . . . : : : :Who could ignore that poignant plea of . . .H>>>E>>>L>>>P ? . . . now . . DON'T crash and burn on us, just yet ! : : : :Could you take measurements and come back with the following info, with all of them being in the close proximity of the "problem"  resistor ?: : :Specifically . . . . the DC voltage being read across the 2760 resistor . . . with you assuredly relegated to using a 2700 ohm , 21st Century value of resistor for its replacement. : : :Also, the reading of AC voltage across it, and since I am not familiar with your specific instrumentation utilized, if you have a large 1-2-3- ufd paper capacitor . . . you might take a series measurement thru it to confirm your instruments AC accuracy . . . with it additionally having its basic and concurrently piggy backed DC component. Edd... My power filter caps are new 'cause the original ones were leaky. In fact, most of the power supply has been replaced with the exception of the low current coupling caps w/ higher volt ratings than the originals. All 500VDC as opposed to 450, 350, 25VDC ratings : : : :What I am basically thinking of there is the potential ESR integrity of your C1 A-B electrolytic units with yet a lesser consideration of the C1 B-C units. : : :E.G. . . . . with your earlier mentioned proclivity towards solid state design . . . taking a case of having a derived power supply feeding into a filter capacitor and then thru a series resistor and then another filter capacitor following it. I hear ya buddy when it comes to solid state...I began my electronic training back in the '70's doing tube repair. There just isn't much call for tube repair anymore. Just my lowly/lovely RCA Victola that I keep going as a hobby. It breaks down roughly once a year. As is now. : : :In that situation, if both filter components are functioning properly, all is well, however if the first filter starts developing an increased ESR, all power flow thru the resistor, to the second filter is further being burdened by an INCREASED AC component also flowing thru the series resistor, so it progressively runs HOTTER. I've scoped all caps in the power supply and all readings are clean DC w/ no fluctuation, and doing their job. I disconnected the 100VDC line from the receiver so that the supposed 100VDC source from the power supply would be completely unmolested from anything downstream, and the power tap still registered 125-130 VDC. So, to me this means that maybe there's nothing wrong with the 130VDC source. The radio works, but the resistor runs very hot, as did the original heat sunk power resistor bar that was riveted to the P.S. frame, and is burned out as well. : : :I find this particularly so in high frequency operated switch mode supplies, they just flat burn that resistor open in short time. : : :Soooooo,for analysis sake, that is why it would desirious to know, what the DC AND AC readings are across the units R1 A-B-C-D filter capacitors. Thats a good question, I have a Beckman digital that is ~ 20 years old and registers the ACV in the circuit. My o'scope is a Dumont 2100 and strangely enough indicates no AC component, only DC. : : :Also confirm that the two sections C1 A-B are sharing common negative filter leads and that those leads then are going to the Resistor 1's C section , which is hulding that circuitry 180 ohms up above ground. Correct... : : :Additionally, that the C1 C section has its POSITIVE lead going to circuit ground. Also correct... Just as a note...the 2520 and 180 ohm resistors run hot but have never cooked like the 2760 ohm. The resistors are allowed a 10% tolerance so if it's only 2.7K it's still within spec. Maybe I need to put a 15 or 20 watt power resistor to replace this one..what you think? : : :Just starting off . . . with some of first my initial musings . . . . : : :ZUJ'ing for feedback . . . . : : : : : :73's de Edd : : : : : |
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:::Steve
:::
::: If voltage is high resistor should run cooloer. It drops 270 volts down to 100 in the schematic. Your radio is only dropping voltage to 130. In the schematic there is 170 volts across the resistor . You have 140. A 10 watt resistor will be hot but should not burn out.
:::
::: Could R1B be open, 2520 ohms to ground?
::
:
:
:
:
::Norm...
::I've speced out that particular part until I'm blue in the face...'cause over the years, I've had to replace most of the power supply...heat and all that kinda stuff. But yup, R1B checks out...
::riddle me this...if I have a shorting cap, say w/ excessive current draw[i.e. hot resistor]...shouldn't the voltage go down, not up???
::I'm probably loosing it...but...With solid state technology...if the problem aint fixed the circuit won't work... but OH NO, not w/ tube tech.
::Thanks again...
::Steve
:::
:
:
:
:::Norm
:::
::::thanks Norm
::::I'm sorry...what I meant to say was-pin 2 on the power supply socket should be 100VDC and is running at 125-130 VDC. The 2760/10W resistor...one side goes to pins 4 of the output tubes and the other goes to the 16 uf power cap in parallel with 2520/10W power resistor.
::::The voltage drop across the 2760/10W resistor is only 140 VDC. There is of course a AC component but I'm discounting this, because it's the DC component that the schematics address
::::BTW..the + side of the 15uf power cap that connents to the spkr field is normal at 270 VDC.
::::I just can't figgur out whats causing the socket pin #2 voltage to operate at 130VDC when all downstream seems normal. It's cooking the 2760/10/w power resistor and eventually burns it out
::::H>>>E>>>L>>>P
::::
::::
::::
:::
:::
::
::
:
:
::
:: :: :: :: :: :: :: ::Sir Steve . . . . .
Refer to the last paragraph for my comeback on that situation. Covering both of your finds now in this info: ::: |
:::
::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: :::Sir Steve . . . . . : : ::: ::: ::: :::Who could ignore that poignant plea of . . .H>>>E>>>L>>>P ? . . . now . . DON'T crash and burn on us, just yet ! : : ::: ::: ::: :::Could you take measurements and come back with the following info, with all of them being in the close proximity of the "problem" resistor ?: : ::: ::: :::Specifically . . . . the DC voltage being read across the 2760 resistor . . . with you assuredly relegated to using a 2700 ohm , 21st Century value of resistor for its replacement. ::: : : ::: :::Also, the reading of AC voltage across it, and since I am not familiar with your specific instrumentation utilized, if you have a large 1-2-3- ufd paper capacitor . . . you might take a series measurement thru it to confirm your instruments AC accuracy . . . with it additionally having its basic and concurrently piggy backed DC component. : : ::: ::Edd... : : ::My power filter caps are new 'cause the original ones were leaky. In fact, most of the power supply has been replaced with the exception of the low current coupling caps w/ higher volt ratings than the originals. : : ::All 500VDC as opposed to 450, 350, 25VDC ratings : ::: ::: : : :::What I am basically thinking of there is the potential ESR integrity of your C1 A-B electrolytic units with yet a lesser consideration of the C1 B-C units. ::: : : ::: :::E.G. . . . . with your earlier mentioned proclivity towards solid state design . . . taking a case of having a derived power supply feeding into a filter capacitor and then thru a series resistor and then another filter capacitor following it. : : ::: ::I hear ya buddy when it comes to solid state...I began my electronic training back in the '70's doing tube repair. There just isn't much call for tube repair anymore. Just my lowly/lovely RCA Victola that I keep going as a hobby. It breaks down roughly once a year. As is now. : : : ::: :::In that situation, if both filter components are functioning properly, all is well, however if the first filter starts developing an increased ESR, all power flow thru the resistor, to the second filter is further being burdened by an INCREASED AC component also flowing thru the series resistor, so it progressively runs HOTTER. : : ::: ::I've scoped all caps in the power supply and all readings are clean DC w/ no fluctuation, and doing their job. I disconnected the 100VDC line from the receiver so that the supposed 100VDC source from the power supply would be completely unmolested from anything downstream, and the power tap still registered 125-130 VDC. So, to me this means that maybe there's nothing wrong with the 130VDC source. The radio works, but the resistor runs very hot, as did the original heat sunk power resistor bar that was riveted to the P.S. frame, and is burned out as well. : : : : :Refer to the last paragraph for my comeback on that situation. : : : ::: :::I find this particularly so in high frequency operated switch mode supplies, they just flat burn that resistor open in short time. : : ::: ::: :::Soooooo,for analysis sake, that is why it would desirious to know, what the DC AND AC readings are across the units R1 A-B-C-D filter capacitors. : : ::: ::Thats a good question, I have a Beckman digital that is ~ 20 years old and registers the ACV in the circuit. : : ::My o'scope is a Dumont 2100 and strangely enough indicates no AC component, only DC. : : :::: :Sooooooo, that Beckman is NOT liking that additional and combined AC-DC combination and is throwing in a faux reading of the DC while being used in the AC mode . . . . so read thru a series blocking capacitor for any future use in acquiring readings of AC. . . . . believe your scope findings . : : ::: :::Also confirm that the two sections C1 A-B are sharing common negative filter leads and that those leads then are going to the Resistor 1's C section , which is holding that circuitry 180 ohms up above ground. : : ::: ::Correct... : : :::: ::: :::Additionally, confirm that the C1 C section has its POSITIVE lead going to circuit ground. : : ::: ::Also correct... : : : : ::Just as a note...the 2520 and 180 ohm resistors run hot but have never cooked like the 2760 ohm. The resistors are allowed a 10% tolerance so if it's only 2.7K it's still within spec. Maybe I need to put a 15 or 20 watt power resistor to replace this one..what you think? : : :::: : :Covering both of your finds now in this info: : : :With your mention of the use of either a Candohm / or/ more likely MUTER brand of power resistor cluster, that somewhat explains the situation of "overheating". : : :With that MUTER unit strapped to the chassis and the chassis metal mass proper carrying off the developed heat, the original power resistor specs were enhanced way on up to a 15-20 watt rating. : : :Yet as you see there is still possibility of failure, but usually aggravated by the manner of mass production of those units. : : :In their case they are using the wrapping around of the strap which is additionally the terminal tie point for the wiring, such that it is making the clamp action around the specific connection point of a long closewound nichrome wire element. : : :Heat and time and pressure contact of dissimilar metals don't always result in long time connectivity reliability, especially if developed into a "hot spot' connection. : : :Also our fingers are not to too reliable means of heat measurement instrumentation "tools", as they always estimate heat seeming greater than it actually is. : : :Should you take a real reading of the source by "shooting" it with a laser IR thermometer, confirmation will be seen. : : :For those . . . 2-3 . . . " hot " units, I suggest you use replacement "DALE" type of resistors , which are insulated from their casings and the casings can be clamped to the chassis proper just as the MUTER unit was. : : :Ref: : : :  : :::: ::: ::: : : :::Just starting off . . . with some of first my initial musings . . . . ::: : : ::: :::ZUJ'ing for feedback . . . . : : : : ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: :::73's de Edd ::: ::: : : ::: ::: ::: |
:
Steve,
Per Rider page 18-10 for the RS123 chassis, if this is what you have, it is recommended that capacitor C1B be changed from 15 ufd. to 50 ufd. which would reduce the AC component being dropped across your hot resistor.
John
:::
::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: :::Sir Steve . . . . . : : ::: ::: ::: :::Who could ignore that poignant plea of . . .H>>>E>>>L>>>P ? . . . now . . DON'T crash and burn on us, just yet ! : : ::: ::: ::: :::Could you take measurements and come back with the following info, with all of them being in the close proximity of the "problem" resistor ?: : ::: ::: :::Specifically . . . . the DC voltage being read across the 2760 resistor . . . with you assuredly relegated to using a 2700 ohm , 21st Century value of resistor for its replacement. ::: : : ::: :::Also, the reading of AC voltage across it, and since I am not familiar with your specific instrumentation utilized, if you have a large 1-2-3- ufd paper capacitor . . . you might take a series measurement thru it to confirm your instruments AC accuracy . . . with it additionally having its basic and concurrently piggy backed DC component. : : ::: ::Edd... : : ::My power filter caps are new 'cause the original ones were leaky. In fact, most of the power supply has been replaced with the exception of the low current coupling caps w/ higher volt ratings than the originals. : : ::All 500VDC as opposed to 450, 350, 25VDC ratings : ::: ::: : : :::What I am basically thinking of there is the potential ESR integrity of your C1 A-B electrolytic units with yet a lesser consideration of the C1 B-C units. ::: : : ::: :::E.G. . . . . with your earlier mentioned proclivity towards solid state design . . . taking a case of having a derived power supply feeding into a filter capacitor and then thru a series resistor and then another filter capacitor following it. : : ::: ::I hear ya buddy when it comes to solid state...I began my electronic training back in the '70's doing tube repair. There just isn't much call for tube repair anymore. Just my lowly/lovely RCA Victola that I keep going as a hobby. It breaks down roughly once a year. As is now. : : : ::: :::In that situation, if both filter components are functioning properly, all is well, however if the first filter starts developing an increased ESR, all power flow thru the resistor, to the second filter is further being burdened by an INCREASED AC component also flowing thru the series resistor, so it progressively runs HOTTER. : : ::: ::I've scoped all caps in the power supply and all readings are clean DC w/ no fluctuation, and doing their job. I disconnected the 100VDC line from the receiver so that the supposed 100VDC source from the power supply would be completely unmolested from anything downstream, and the power tap still registered 125-130 VDC. So, to me this means that maybe there's nothing wrong with the 130VDC source. The radio works, but the resistor runs very hot, as did the original heat sunk power resistor bar that was riveted to the P.S. frame, and is burned out as well. : : : : :Refer to the last paragraph for my comeback on that situation. : : : ::: :::I find this particularly so in high frequency operated switch mode supplies, they just flat burn that resistor open in short time. : : ::: ::: :::Soooooo,for analysis sake, that is why it would desirious to know, what the DC AND AC readings are across the units R1 A-B-C-D filter capacitors. : : ::: ::Thats a good question, I have a Beckman digital that is ~ 20 years old and registers the ACV in the circuit. : : ::My o'scope is a Dumont 2100 and strangely enough indicates no AC component, only DC. : : :::: :Sooooooo, that Beckman is NOT liking that additional and combined AC-DC combination and is throwing in a faux reading of the DC while being used in the AC mode . . . . so read thru a series blocking capacitor for any future use in acquiring readings of AC. . . . . believe your scope findings . : : ::: :::Also confirm that the two sections C1 A-B are sharing common negative filter leads and that those leads then are going to the Resistor 1's C section , which is holding that circuitry 180 ohms up above ground. : : ::: ::Correct... : : :::: ::: :::Additionally, confirm that the C1 C section has its POSITIVE lead going to circuit ground. : : ::: ::Also correct... : : : : ::Just as a note...the 2520 and 180 ohm resistors run hot but have never cooked like the 2760 ohm. The resistors are allowed a 10% tolerance so if it's only 2.7K it's still within spec. Maybe I need to put a 15 or 20 watt power resistor to replace this one..what you think? : : :::: : :Covering both of your finds now in this info: : : :With your mention of the use of either a Candohm / or/ more likely MUTER brand of power resistor cluster, that somewhat explains the situation of "overheating". : : :With that MUTER unit strapped to the chassis and the chassis metal mass proper carrying off the developed heat, the original power resistor specs were enhanced way on up to a 15-20 watt rating. : : :Yet as you see there is still possibility of failure, but usually aggravated by the manner of mass production of those units. : : :In their case they are using the wrapping around of the strap which is additionally the terminal tie point for the wiring, such that it is making the clamp action around the specific connection point of a long closewound nichrome wire element. : : :Heat and time and pressure contact of dissimilar metals don't always result in long time connectivity reliability, especially if developed into a "hot spot' connection. : : :Also our fingers are not to too reliable means of heat measurement instrumentation "tools", as they always estimate heat seeming greater than it actually is. : : :Should you take a real reading of the source by "shooting" it with a laser IR thermometer, confirmation will be seen. : : :For those . . . 2-3 . . . " hot " units, I suggest you use replacement "DALE" type of resistors , which are insulated from their casings and the casings can be clamped to the chassis proper just as the MUTER unit was. : : :Ref: : : : : :::: ::: ::: : : :::Just starting off . . . with some of first my initial musings . . . . ::: : : ::: :::ZUJ'ing for feedback . . . . : : : : ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: :::73's de Edd ::: ::: : : ::: ::: ::: |
:
YUDA MAN big EDD...
I've had such thoughts [the effective power ratings is mush higher 'cause of the heat sink principle of the resistor to case bolting. More heat can be dissipated thru frame contact. So I've ordered just that...20W power resistors that bolt to the case.
Interesting thoughts on the series cap to isolate my digi-meter to stray ACV. The AC component is always something that has concerned me when switching back and forth between volt measurements. I no longer do this [repair of electronics] as a living so my knowledge/skill decays w/ time. It's like being one of the few buggy/stagecoach repairmen in the age of super hi-tech cars...
Just wish I could figure out why the voltage at the power supply [unmolested by downstream circuits] is running high {25-30% high} when ALL volt and resistance readings are normal. Power caps check out and all has been scoped. All's well. Maybe just replacing the @.7K/10W w/ the higher wattage will cure my problem of burn out.
Thanks loads AGAIN...Big Edd