It's Christmas Eve and there's no rush on this. I just don't have anything better to do. Projection bulb blew up in my big screen so I can't even watch any games until the new one gets here. Had the wife stand back there with a bright flashlight but she quit after about 30 minutes. Richard gave me some instructions for posting a pic here so I'm gonna give it a shot. May take a couple of tries. May get lucky the first time.

I have this Atwater Kent model 46 that actually worked when I got it but I knew it had some problems so I'm recapping it and installing new resistors. I'm following instructions written by D. K. Owens in 2000 I believe. It says "The Old Timers Bulletin/May 2000". The part I'm at now says "Look carefully at the pack. There is a wire going from the left compartment into the center compartment. This is the B+ input from the rectifier tube. Leave this wire alone". I have two wires as noted in this picture I'm gonna try to post. One is red coming from the mallory cap and the other is green. I think. There is also a "Mallory" cap that I can't identify. The one I just mentioned with the red wire. The R/H compartment is not shown in this picture. It has the capacitor bank in it and it is the later version and I have it removed. So let me try to post this pic.
:[img]http://www.speakeasyradios.com/yahoo_site_admin/assets/images/AK46_Power_Pack_001.357115248_std.jpg[/img]
Lets see if I put a pic here. If so I'll continue or try again on the pic.

Johnny

Use the actual square brackets "[" and "]" before and after the img and /img tags. I used the HTML notation so I could display the tags.

:Use the actual square brackets "[" and "]" before and after the img and /img tags. I used the HTML notation so I could display the tags.
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:I wondered if that's what you meant. So instead of the lsqb and rsqb use the actual brackets instead. Correct?

Johnny
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::Use the actual square brackets "[" and "]" before and after the img and /img tags. I used the HTML notation so I could display the tags.
::
::
::
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::I wondered if that's what you meant. So instead of the lsqb and rsqb use the actual brackets instead. Correct?
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:Johnny
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:So now that the picture is there here are my questions. The Mallory cap that has no value I can't locate on the schematic and of course I don't know the value.

Going from the "Left Section" to the "Center Section" there are two wires. One of these is supposed to be B+ from the 80 rectifier. That's what the instructions from the restoration instructions says. It also says there should "Be a wire" but there's two. The red and the green. The red wire comes off of one end of the unknown cap. Other end of that cap is chassis grounded. The green wire goes from tar to tar.

So has anyone worked on one of these and knows what the "Mallory" cap is? Is it a cap? Which wire, red or green is the B+?

Thanks much and have a Merry Christmas,
Johnny

Get a Solar model CB (or CC or similar) capacitor analyzer from eBay, or a Heath model. Replace all paper and electrolytic capacitors. This device will be very handy for you in many ways, and you will not regret buying it.

...Though hopefully in the next few days someone on here will be able to identify that capacitor. However, I put off buying a good capacitor analyzer over and over again, and now that I have one I cannot say enough how nice it is to own one. Modern capacitor 'checkers' are alright, too, but lack high voltage for leakage tests. A modern capacitor checker that also has an insulation tester might work well for higher voltage capacitors.

T.

This looks like an early repair, not by an Atwater Kent service department. The Mallory capacitor is not a stock item, but an add on for a repair of a open capacitor inside the tar box. Would guess it's an 8 MFD. Repairs like this were common back in the day of the Fix-It-Shop.

:This looks like an early repair, not by an Atwater Kent service department. The Mallory capacitor is not a stock item, but an add on for a repair of a open capacitor inside the tar box. Would guess it's an 8 MFD. Repairs like this were common back in the day of the Fix-It-Shop.
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:I agree with you warren because the red wire in the picture is taped to what looks like a green wire in the center compartment. I've powered up transformers on the bench before to check their outputs but I wonder if that's okay to do with this AK 46. I could apply AC to it and look at what's coming from where. Have a nice Christmas guys.

Johnny

When you have an unknown mess like that, before applying any power to it. Have a look at this site for your model Atwater Kent. It does show good schematics and color wire information. You should be able to logic it out.

http://www.atwaterkent.info/TechData/akSvcDataIndex.html

Hi Johnny

For original Atwater Kent Data and modern drawings check this site:

http://www.atwaterkent.info/TechData/akSvcDataIndex.html

If you are unsure about specific wires going into the tar use your ohm meter. On one lead attach a pin. This pin can poke through wire insulation.

Caps can be replaced by removing a little tar from the top. Plenty of room for modern electrolytic caps.

Norm

:When you have an unknown mess like that, before applying any power to it. Have a look at this site for your model Atwater Kent. It does show good schematics and color wire information. You should be able to logic it out.
:
:http://www.atwaterkent.info/TechData/akSvcDataIndex.html
:

:Hi Johnny
:
: For original Atwater Kent Data and modern drawings check this site:
:
:http://www.atwaterkent.info/TechData/akSvcDataIndex.html
:
: If you are unsure about specific wires going into the tar use your ohm meter. On one lead attach a pin. This pin can poke through wire insulation.
:
: Caps can be replaced by removing a little tar from the top. Plenty of room for modern electrolytic caps.
:
:Norm
:
::When you have an unknown mess like that, before applying any power to it. Have a look at this site for your model Atwater Kent. It does show good schematics and color wire information. You should be able to logic it out.
::
::http://www.atwaterkent.info/TechData/akSvcDataIndex.html
::
:
:I'll check those sites out. This set worked but it had problems. I did test the power transformer section by following instructions someone at ARF referenced. Might have been you Norm. That section checked out great. Final test said I should have between 150 and 220Vdc. I had 196Vdc. Thanks for the info. Let me check it out.

Johnny

:Hi Johnny
:
: For original Atwater Kent Data and modern drawings check this site:
:
:http://www.atwaterkent.info/TechData/akSvcDataIndex.html
:
: If you are unsure about specific wires going into the tar use your ohm meter. On one lead attach a pin. This pin can poke through wire insulation.
:
: Caps can be replaced by removing a little tar from the top. Plenty of room for modern electrolytic caps.
:
:Norm
:
::When you have an unknown mess like that, before applying any power to it. Have a look at this site for your model Atwater Kent. It does show good schematics and color wire information. You should be able to logic it out.
::
::http://www.atwaterkent.info/TechData/akSvcDataIndex.html
::
:
:Pulled up all the AK paperwork you referenced and I have all of that. What I didn't have was the "Modern" schematic with the parts list and component values. This will be a great help. Thanks.
!

Johnny