Lewis
PS Pls exduse any typos, as I have a cat helping me type this.
L. L.
I would start with the electrolytics
Dave
This thing is so beautifully wired that I want to do as little unsoldering as I can, but equal Voltage across the caps would be a good start. The diodes are OK. Funny they are in clips like giant fuses, but NTE sez the replacement is a 1N4006. My, my, how times have changed.
Lewis
This thing is so beautifully wired that I want to do as little unsoldering as I can, but equal Voltage across the caps would be a good start. The diodes are OK. Funny they are in clips like giant fuses, but NTE sez the replacement is a 1N4006. My, my, how times have changed.
Lewis
Hokay, y'all:
Here's whut I done: Disconnected the load and checked the Voltages and currents. Voltage higher but still low. Current supposed to be around zero with no load, is .330 Ampere. Then, I remembered a trick I used when working on aircraft strobe lights. I let the thing run with only the diodes and capacitors that form the Voltage doubler. After about fifteen minutes, I checked and the doubler capacitors (both in one can) were uncomfortahly warm. Aha! Hoss, you may check good, but you is leaking. This thing has two 50ufd. 200 Volt caps in one twisty lock can, made by Industrial Condenser Corp., of Chicago. No trace on the internet, must be out of business. Anyone know how to find a cross reference to a company that is still in business??
TNX in advance,
Lewis
::::This afternoon, on a whim, I purchased a Heathkit AG-10 sine/square wave audio oscillator. B+ reads about half of the value on the schematic. The B+ is derived from a Voltage doubler. I wonder if I should start troubleshooting the doubler, or start disconnecting resistors to see if something is dragging that B+ down. Any AG-10 experts out there??
::::
::::Lewis
::::
::::PS Pls exduse any typos, as I have a cat helping me type this.
::::L. L.
::::
:::
:::
:::I would start with the electrolytics
:::
:::Dave
::
::This thing is so beautifully wired that I want to do as little unsoldering as I can, but equal Voltage across the caps would be a good start. The diodes are OK. Funny they are in clips like giant fuses, but NTE sez the replacement is a 1N4006. My, my, how times have changed.
::Lewis
:
:
:Hokay, y'all:
:Here's whut I done: Disconnected the load and checked the Voltages and currents. Voltage higher but still low. Current supposed to be around zero with no load, is .330 Ampere. Then, I remembered a trick I used when working on aircraft strobe lights. I let the thing run with only the diodes and capacitors that form the Voltage doubler. After about fifteen minutes, I checked and the doubler capacitors (both in one can) were uncomfortahly warm. Aha! Hoss, you may check good, but you is leaking. This thing has two 50ufd. 200 Volt caps in one twisty lock can, made by Industrial Condenser Corp., of Chicago. No trace on the internet, must be out of business. Anyone know how to find a cross reference to a company that is still in business??
:TNX in advance,
:Lewis
:
::Plenty of information here on how to gut the old capacitor, stuff it with modern replacements. You could also just disconnect the cap, and wire in replacements under the chassis. Use 450 volt types and observer the polarity.
::
::::::This afternoon, on a whim, I purchased a Heathkit AG-10 sine/square wave audio oscillator. B+ reads about half of the value on the schematic. The B+ is derived from a Voltage doubler. I wonder if I should start troubleshooting the doubler, or start disconnecting resistors to see if something is dragging that B+ down. Any AG-10 experts out there??
::::::
::::::Lewis
::::::
::::::PS Pls exduse any typos, as I have a cat helping me type this.
::::::L. L.
::::::
:::::
:::::
:::::I would start with the electrolytics
:::::
:::::Dave
::::
::::This thing is so beautifully wired that I want to do as little unsoldering as I can, but equal Voltage across the caps would be a good start. The diodes are OK. Funny they are in clips like giant fuses, but NTE sez the replacement is a 1N4006. My, my, how times have changed.
::::Lewis
:::
:::
:::Hokay, y'all:
:::Here's whut I done: Disconnected the load and checked the Voltages and currents. Voltage higher but still low. Current supposed to be around zero with no load, is .330 Ampere. Then, I remembered a trick I used when working on aircraft strobe lights. I let the thing run with only the diodes and capacitors that form the Voltage doubler. After about fifteen minutes, I checked and the doubler capacitors (both in one can) were uncomfortahly warm. Aha! Hoss, you may check good, but you is leaking. This thing has two 50ufd. 200 Volt caps in one twisty lock can, made by Industrial Condenser Corp., of Chicago. No trace on the internet, must be out of business. Anyone know how to find a cross reference to a company that is still in business??
:::TNX in advance,
:::Lewis
:::
::
:Oh, choices, choices choices......BG Micro has .47s @450 Volts for $.69, but a %6 shipping charge. I could probably find some in Atlanta, but driving in Atlanta is like going to the dentist, the proctologist and the urulogist all at the same time. Places like Newark, Mouser, and Allied that might have an exact replacement will have me punching keys for fifteen minutes, only to inform me that they never heard of what I need. If I order from BG Micro, for six bucks I will have tha parts later this week, have an oscillator working, and time to search for the exact replacement later. That is what I think I will do.
:Lewis
:
Been here lately? Rush hour starts at 3:00 and lasts 'til 7:00. Most of the drivers are demolition derby wannabees. If it starts raining, all traffic comes to a halt. Had a very little bit of snow here this afternoon. I watched it out of my window. There is a law somewhere that states no two vehicles on the Interstate system may go the same speed. Heck, I just ordered my caps from BG Micro, and since there is a minimum shipping charge, I added a few toys to make it worth while.
Gonna have lots of things to play with!!!
Lewis
:::Plenty of information here on how to gut the old capacitor, stuff it with modern replacements. You could also just disconnect the cap, and wire in replacements under the chassis. Use 450 volt types and observer the polarity.
\
marv
::Well, as best I can recall, in the winter time, Atlanta is a lot nicer than the alternatives you mentioned. Funny how we still all fear the dentist the most, although it's the least likely threat.
:
:Been here lately? Rush hour starts at 3:00 and lasts 'til 7:00. Most of the drivers are demolition derby wannabees. If it starts raining, all traffic comes to a halt. Had a very little bit of snow here this afternoon. I watched it out of my window. There is a law somewhere that states no two vehicles on the Interstate system may go the same speed. Heck, I just ordered my caps from BG Micro, and since there is a minimum shipping charge, I added a few toys to make it worth while.
:Gonna have lots of things to play with!!!
:Lewis
:
:
:
:
::::Plenty of information here on how to gut the old capacitor, stuff it with modern replacements. You could also just disconnect the cap, and wire in replacements under the chassis. Use 450 volt types and observer the polarity.
:\
:
Marv:
It'll be a few days until my replacement caps come in from Texas, so I have time for a little planning. BG Micro has some great prices, 47uFd. @ 450 Volts is $0.69, so I can waste two of them if I can find the correct cap (two 50 uF. @ 200) or maybe I can find a way to neatly place them under the chassis permanantly. I have been called by the one who must be obeyed that dinner is ready, so I must leave my little den to eat.
Lewis
Regarding the originals, if nothing leaked out, most likely they were just reforming. It is normal for electrolytics to get warm during the reforming process. It is best to reform them through a resistor to protect against excessive currents and shorts. Use something on the order of 1 to 5K at perhaps 1 or 2 watts. They should be left for over 15 minutes...more like 30. Then voltage should be measured across the resistor. Hopefully it will have dropped to around 0. Then slowly discharge the electrolytics through a 10K resistor and try them out.
Recently I rejuvenated electrolytics in this way in a near-mint endocardiograph, probably not used in decades, and also in a near-mint Ampro 16mm film projector amplifier. In both amplifiers the electrolytics drew heavy current and showed up as a large short, but after reforming they perform flawlessly.
Install a fuse for good measure.
T.