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PhilcoTransitone 49-500 (No Power)
11/27/2010 10:56:39 AMDave LeMay
Hi all...I just replaced paper caps and added new power cord to a Philco Transitone 49-500...had full power at test prior installing electrolytics...installed electrolytics now no power.. I know its something basic but i'm stumped...help...
11/27/2010 11:23:19 AMcodefox
By no power, do you mean there is no B+ or tubes are not glowing, or both? Confirm that the AC is in fact getting from the wall plug to the set with a meter. If you get past this, make sure the on/off switch on the volume control still works. Sometimes unsoldering and attaching a new line cord is just enough to make a switch stick. A blast of deoxit followed by several dozen on/off clicks (definitely without power connected) may cure this.

You can find information on this site (under references) specific to this set.

That way, you can be absolutely sure that you have everything in place and hooked up correctly.

There is a pilot lamp on this set, and there will be no B+ if it is removed or burned out. The B- is not the chassis. If you changed out the electrolytic capacitors and "grounded" the negatives to the chassis the set will not work. See the schematic.

I've also fallen prey to mixing up the tubes and scratching my head when the set didn't play. It happens to all of us. Double check.


Be careful, this is a transformerless set. If you are not using an isolation transformer, hook up your test meter with set off, and then plug it in without touching anything. Once out of the wooden cabinet with plastic knobs, these sets are a shock hazard to be well respected.

Well, have a look, and let us know what you find.

:Hi all...I just replaced paper caps and added new power cord to a Philco Transitone 49-500...had full power at test prior installing electrolytics...installed electrolytics now no power.. I know its something basic but i'm stumped...help...
:

11/27/2010 12:09:34 PMDave LeMay
Thanks for the info...I'll be careful

:By no power, do you mean there is no B+ or tubes are not glowing, or both? Confirm that the AC is in fact getting from the wall plug to the set with a meter. If you get past this, make sure the on/off switch on the volume control still works. Sometimes unsoldering and attaching a new line cord is just enough to make a switch stick. A blast of deoxit followed by several dozen on/off clicks (definitely without power connected) may cure this.
:
:You can find information on this site (under references) specific to this set.
:
:That way, you can be absolutely sure that you have everything in place and hooked up correctly.
:
:There is a pilot lamp on this set, and there will be no B+ if it is removed or burned out. The B- is not the chassis. If you changed out the electrolytic capacitors and "grounded" the negatives to the chassis the set will not work. See the schematic.
:
:I've also fallen prey to mixing up the tubes and scratching my head when the set didn't play. It happens to all of us. Double check.
:
:
:Be careful, this is a transformerless set. If you are not using an isolation transformer, hook up your test meter with set off, and then plug it in without touching anything. Once out of the wooden cabinet with plastic knobs, these sets are a shock hazard to be well respected.
:
:Well, have a look, and let us know what you find.
:
::Hi all...I just replaced paper caps and added new power cord to a Philco Transitone 49-500...had full power at test prior installing electrolytics...installed electrolytics now no power.. I know its something basic but i'm stumped...help...
::
:
:

11/27/2010 1:36:20 PMWarren
Look in the power supply section of the schematic. Make sure the line cord is connected as shown. ( to switch and pin 2 ) The dial lamp is across pin 2 and 3 .. If by chance the dial lamp was missing or open, it's possible now there is an open heater tap in the 35Z5. Take the tube out and test for continuity on pins 2-3-7 ..


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