I need a 10k vol control pot with a switch:
It's used in a Realistic 12-689a AM/FM solid state radio

10k [b]mini-pot[/b] with spst switch.
It needs to be audio taper of course and have a 1 inch long shaft knurled (panel mount).

I can't seem to locate [b]anything[/b] knurled ..with that shaft length at the major suppliers though I can't understand why.

Anybody have any ideas?

Please.. thanks

:I need a 10k vol control pot with a switch:
:It's used in a Realistic 12-689a AM/FM solid state radio
:
:10k [b]mini-pot[/b] with spst switch.
:It needs to be audio taper of course and have a 1 inch long shaft knurled (panel mount).
:
:I can't seem to locate [b]anything[/b] knurled ..with that shaft length at the major suppliers though I can't understand why.
:
:Anybody have any ideas?
:
:Please.. thanks
:
T.

:I need a 10k vol control pot with a switch:
:It's used in a Realistic 12-689a AM/FM solid state radio
:
:10k [b]mini-pot[/b] with spst switch.
:It needs to be audio taper of course and have a 1 inch long shaft knurled (panel mount).
:
:I can't seem to locate [b]anything[/b] knurled ..with that shaft length at the major suppliers though I can't understand why.
:
:Anybody have any ideas?
:
:Please.. thanks
:
:
:Hi! Peter,
If you google " volume control 10k with switch" then click on the Radio Shack link you'll find one there but I don't think the shaft is knurled. Maybe you can improvise.
Bob Masse
:
;

::I need a 10k vol control pot with a switch:
::It's used in a Realistic 12-689a AM/FM solid state radio
::
::10k [b]mini-pot[/b] with spst switch.
::It needs to be audio taper of course and have a 1 inch long shaft knurled (panel mount).
::
::I can't seem to locate [b]anything[/b] knurled ..with that shaft length at the major suppliers though I can't understand why.
::
::Anybody have any ideas?
::
::Please.. thanks
::
::
::Hi! Peter,
:If you google " volume control 10k with switch" then click on the Radio Shack link you'll find one there but I don't think the shaft is knurled. Maybe you can improvise.
:Bob Masse
::
:;
:
Maybe I'm searching wrong?

I can find many but not one like I need with the 1-inch long knurled shaft.

If you can find a pot with the same diameter and tabs located the same as the original, you may be able to disassemble both and use the old shaft and new element to make up a replacement. Most are held together with tabs and a ring holding the shaft in place. Once you take one apart you'll see how to do the changeover.

:::I need a 10k vol control pot with a switch:
:::It's used in a Realistic 12-689a AM/FM solid state radio
:::
:::10k [b]mini-pot[/b] with spst switch.
:::It needs to be audio taper of course and have a 1 inch long shaft knurled (panel mount).
:::
:::I can't seem to locate [b]anything[/b] knurled ..with that shaft length at the major suppliers though I can't understand why.
:::
:::Anybody have any ideas?
:::
:::Please.. thanks
:::
:::
:::Hi! Peter,
::If you google " volume control 10k with switch" then click on the Radio Shack link you'll find one there but I don't think the shaft is knurled. Maybe you can improvise.
::Bob Masse
:::
::;
::
:
:Thanks Bob... Yes I've been there... and AES too .. also can't seem to find one at Mouser, or Digikey or Newark-in-one.
:Maybe I'm searching wrong?
:
:I can find many but not one like I need with the 1-inch long knurled shaft.
:

Thanks Mike but that wont work on this little pot.

Hi Mike:
The end of the shaft is crimped or peened over into a flat tab to fit the on/off switch mechanism. So I can't change shafts.

However I got lucky ... sort-of.
I did find a mini-pot at RadioShack tonight that is small enough to fit the pc board area just perfectly.. however, the shaft is way too short and not knurled either.

So I used it anyway ....and I was going to saw off a knurled shaft section from the old pot to solder to the end ofthe new pot as I've done often before.. but that was using brass and this one is aluminum.. so solder is no good.

Both the new-pot shaft and the old section of knurled shaft are split... so I took a piece of brass shim-stock and cut off a small flat strip and folded it over a few times to fit tightly into each of the split shafts and butted them together end to end for alignment.

Then I crazy-glued them end-to-end with extra glue in the split on the brass-shimstock wedge.

It seemed ok until I had to saw off the tiny bit of the knurled shaft stub.

That caused half the split section to fall off....lol

So I re-clamped and re-glued them.... and so far so good.

Next... the plastic knob itself was a bit too tight now to fit down over the knurled shaft that I just glued on.
...and I didn't want to close-up the split w/pliers anymore fearing I'd break the glue-joint again.

So instead, I sawed a slit down the plastic knob's outer shaft-sleeve itself allowing the knob sleeve to open just slightly as it slips down over the newly attached knurled shaft.
So far it looks quite good.

Cross your fingers....lol

Thanks for your help.

:Hi Mike:
:The end of the shaft is crimped or peened over into a flat tab to fit the on/off switch mechanism. So I can't change shafts.
:

I didn't explain this very well. You take both pots apart and then put the element from the new one into the old body and use the old shaft. So you are really just changing the element.

In any case glad you got it working.

By the way, another way to splice shafts is to drill through the splice and put a small pin through both. This makes things a lot stronger and won't pull apart.