Hi, I am a new to collecting the antique radio. Last week I bought a Silvertone 7807 (113.414) - Year 1939 Radio from the local flea market. I would like learn how to repair this radio as my first radio restoration project. I have some question and I hope someone can help me out here.
The radio is not working. When I turn it on, the pilot light went on, but no sound. After I researched on the internet in the past couple days and I learn that I should start replacing the Electrolytic filter Capacitor and Paper Capacitor on the old radio as starting point.

Luckily, the original sticker still readable on the bottom of the radio. So that I can find out all the information about the schematic diagram and the part list. Replace all the capacitor on this Silvertone radio seems straight forward for me, except a set of the capacitor I don't understand how to replace them. According to the schematic diagram, it shows all C14, C15 and C16 capacitors are stored inside a sliver can (See picture 1, 2 and 3).

picture 1: http://picasaweb.google.com/chrisweb1/Silvertone7807113414#5527753946224198914
picture 2: http://picasaweb.google.com/chrisweb1/Silvertone7807113414#5527754029687127298
picture 3: http://picasaweb.google.com/chrisweb1/Silvertone7807113414#5527753933162540002

On the Part List, It shows they are: (See picture 4: http://picasaweb.google.com/chrisweb1/Silvertone7807113414#5527753865463988962)

C14, C15 Condenser - Electrolytic 10 mfd. 450 Volt
C16 10 mfd. 450 Volt - 20 mfd. - 600 Volt

1st question: C16 is a range of number. Should I buy 10 mfd 450V or 20 mfd 600V Capacitors?
2nd Question: How are these three capacitors wired in the silver can? Do I need to open it up to check inside to see how they are connected together. There are only three pins (see picture 5) stick out on the bottom of the radio. On the schematic, the C16 is farther away.
picture 5: http://picasaweb.google.com/chrisweb1/Silvertone7807113414#5527754049454615938
If someone can help me, I really appreciate it. Thanks in Advance.

CMM

That silver can has all three capacitors made inside. All three capacitors share the same negative connections. The can itself is the negative side. Use three separate 10 MFD. 450 capacitors. Cut the wires off the three lugs from the old can. Install the new capacitors to the wires. The negative ends can connect to the outside lugs of the old can.
Before doing that though. Test your speaker with an ohm meter for continuity. Same with the Audio output transformer (primary and secondary windings) also the Field coil, and hum bucking coil. These are found open a lot of times.

Thanks so much for your reply. I'll go ahead to test it and see how it goes.....

:That silver can has all three capacitors made inside. All three capacitors share the same negative connections. The can itself is the negative side. Use three separate 10 MFD. 450 capacitors. Cut the wires off the three lugs from the old can. Install the new capacitors to the wires. The negative ends can connect to the outside lugs of the old can.
: Before doing that though. Test your speaker with an ohm meter for continuity. Same with the Audio output transformer (primary and secondary windings) also the Field coil, and hum bucking coil. These are found open a lot of times.
:

Hi Warren

Can you tell me little bit about how to test Audio output transformer, Field Coil and speaker? Do I need to cut the wire in order to test for continuity? I only know the basic about using the multimeter. Thanks!

:Thanks so much for your reply. I'll go ahead to test it and see how it goes.....
:
:
:
::That silver can has all three capacitors made inside. All three capacitors share the same negative connections. The can itself is the negative side. Use three separate 10 MFD. 450 capacitors. Cut the wires off the three lugs from the old can. Install the new capacitors to the wires. The negative ends can connect to the outside lugs of the old can.
:: Before doing that though. Test your speaker with an ohm meter for continuity. Same with the Audio output transformer (primary and secondary windings) also the Field coil, and hum bucking coil. These are found open a lot of times.
::
:

You can read the field coil in curcuit. Should read around 1600 ohms. For an easy quick test of the audio output tansfomer and speaker, touch a 9 volt battery across the primary of the audio output tarnsformer. You should hear a click. If no sound, then test primary of audio output transformer in curcuit. For the secondary test, disconnect the voice coil of speaker first. Then test secondary winding. Speaker voice coil after.