I picked up this tracer for $15.00. Terry warned me!
I know the transformer is good. There is a cap in this unit that has leaked all over the bottom of the chassis. It is T14 by the parts list, Dual .1 MFD 400V Bathtub. Never heard of a Bathtub Cap. Can i just use two .1 MFD 400V caps tied together at the B-? Then wire the leads to K11/O16 and pin 6 of 6HS7.
Is there a polarity on this cap or just a standard cap?
Thanks
Mitch
That procedure will be just fine on solving that "bathtub" parts problem. Thassit . . . . |
:All,
:I picked up this tracer for $15.00. Terry warned me!
:I know the transformer is good. There is a cap in this unit that has leaked all over the bottom of the chassis. It is T14 by the parts list, Dual .1 MFD 400V Bathtub. Never heard of a Bathtub Cap. Can i just use two .1 MFD 400V caps tied together at the B-? Then wire the leads to K11/O16 and pin 6 of 6HS7.
:Is there a polarity on this cap or just a standard cap?
:Thanks
:Mitch
:
:
: : :  : : : : : : :Sir Mitch. . . . . : : : :That procedure will be just fine on solving that "bathtub" parts problem. : : :For one of the 0.1 mfd units, mount it right at the tube socket of the 6HS7 with one lead connected topin 6 and then take that caps other lead and connect it to pin 7 . . . which is the filament GROUND. : : :For the other 0.1 mfd, take note that your K11----016 and 012 resistors are having a common junction connection. : : :See which resistor is the CLOSEST to a ground connection and connect that other cap between "the" resistor and the nearby ground. : : :BTW do you have JUST the single schematic page for that Heath unit or do you have the WHOLE enchilada, as that is what I have . . . even with some taco sauce. : : :PLUSSSSS . . . I still think that you got one " DELL of a HEEL " on that unit . . . in its being considered against that first mentioned EICO, which eventually became a "carpetbagger" rip off. : : : :Thassit . . . . : : : : :73's de Edd : : :  : |
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
::All,
::I picked up this tracer for $15.00. Terry warned me!
::I know the transformer is good. There is a cap in this unit that has leaked all over the bottom of the chassis. It is T14 by the parts list, Dual .1 MFD 400V Bathtub. Never heard of a Bathtub Cap. Can i just use two .1 MFD 400V caps tied together at the B-? Then wire the leads to K11/O16 and pin 6 of 6HS7.
::Is there a polarity on this cap or just a standard cap?
::Thanks
::Mitch
::
:
Thanks all,
I have the whole enchilada with sauce and chips now with the help of the Forum. I will take advice and also change the DC caps as they are leaking.
Will post results.
Thanks much.
Mitch
:
: : : : : : : : : :Sir Mitch. . . . . : : : :That procedure will be just fine on solving that "bathtub" parts problem. : : :For one of the 0.1 mfd units, mount it right at the tube socket of the 6HS7 with one lead connected topin 6 and then take that caps other lead and connect it to pin 7 . . . which is the filament GROUND. : : :For the other 0.1 mfd, take note that your K11----016 and 012 resistors are having a common junction connection. : : :See which resistor is the CLOSEST to a ground connection and connect that other cap between "the" resistor and the nearby ground. : : :BTW do you have JUST the single schematic page for that Heath unit or do you have the WHOLE enchilada, as that is what I have . . . even with some taco sauce. : : :PLUSSSSS . . . I still think that you got one " DELL of a HEEL " on that unit . . . in its being considered against that first mentioned EICO, which eventually became a "carpetbagger" rip off. : : : :Thassit . . . . : : : : :73's de Edd : : : : |
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
::All,
::I picked up this tracer for $15.00. Terry warned me!
::I know the transformer is good. There is a cap in this unit that has leaked all over the bottom of the chassis. It is T14 by the parts list, Dual .1 MFD 400V Bathtub. Never heard of a Bathtub Cap. Can i just use two .1 MFD 400V caps tied together at the B-? Then wire the leads to K11/O16 and pin 6 of 6HS7.
::Is there a polarity on this cap or just a standard cap?
::Thanks
::Mitch
::
:
Need advice,
The DC caps are 8.8 MFD at 475 WV, I want to use 10 MFD at 160 Volt. Will this work, or do i really need 475 Volt caps? If so, where would i get such a cap with this rating?
Mitch
BUT . . . in referencing to page 4 in the Heath manual . . . or page 6 Adobe, in their referencing to the troubleshooting voltage specs . . you then see that the voltage never is above the 260-300 VDC level at that 6X5. |
:::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::Sir Mitch. . . . .
::
::
::
::That procedure will be just fine on solving that "bathtub" parts problem.
::
::
::For one of the 0.1 mfd units, mount it right at the tube socket of the 6HS7 with one lead connected topin 6 and then take that caps other lead and connect it to pin 7 . . . which is the filament GROUND.
::
::
::For the other 0.1 mfd, take note that your K11----016 and 012 resistors are having a common junction connection.
::
::
::See which resistor is the CLOSEST to a ground connection and connect that other cap between "the" resistor and the nearby ground.
::
::
::BTW do you have JUST the single schematic page for that Heath unit or do you have the WHOLE enchilada, as that is what I have . . . even with some taco sauce.
::
::
::PLUSSSSS . . . I still think that you got one " DELL of a HEEL " on that unit . . . in its being considered against that first mentioned EICO, which eventually became a "carpetbagger" rip off.
::
::
::
::Thassit . . . .
::
::
::
::
::73's de Edd
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
:::All,
:::I picked up this tracer for $15.00. Terry warned me!
:::I know the transformer is good. There is a cap in this unit that has leaked all over the bottom of the chassis. It is T14 by the parts list, Dual .1 MFD 400V Bathtub. Never heard of a Bathtub Cap. Can i just use two .1 MFD 400V caps tied together at the B-? Then wire the leads to K11/O16 and pin 6 of 6HS7.
:::Is there a polarity on this cap or just a standard cap?
:::Thanks
:::Mitch
::
:Need advice,
:The DC caps are 8.8 MFD at 475 WV, I want to use 10 MFD at 160 Volt. Will this work, or do i really need 475 Volt caps? If so, where would i get such a cap with this rating?
:Mitch
:
:
:
: : : : : : : : : :Sir Mitch. . . . . : : :I'm a tell a you whatta I thinka. :That they had a WHOLE caboose of those caps left from ham transmitter kits and were just wanting to deplete stock from what was already bought. : : :Now, since that DC power supply level is going to come up s l o w l y by virtue of the filaments of tubes having to warm up, its not going to be there INSTANTLY, as it would be with solid state equipment. : : :I was just going to have you turn on the cold unit and monitor the output of the 6X5 where the volgtage would be rising up to . . . and then declining a bit from its very highest, and then see what was the worst case on peak voltage developed. : : : :BUT . . . in referencing to page 4 in the Heath manual . . . or page 6 Adobe, in their referencing to the troubleshooting voltage specs . . you then see that the voltage never is above the 260-300 VDC level at that 6X5. : : :Go for your, maybe 10 ufd @450 VDC, rated units, as that is quite a cushion there . . . . . as cushiony as Mamma Cass. : : :Thassit . . . . : : : : :73's de Edd : : : : |
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:::
:::
::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: :::Sir Mitch. . . . . ::: ::: ::: :::That procedure will be just fine on solving that "bathtub" parts problem. ::: ::: :::For one of the 0.1 mfd units, mount it right at the tube socket of the 6HS7 with one lead connected topin 6 and then take that caps other lead and connect it to pin 7 . . . which is the filament GROUND. ::: ::: :::For the other 0.1 mfd, take note that your K11----016 and 012 resistors are having a common junction connection. ::: ::: :::See which resistor is the CLOSEST to a ground connection and connect that other cap between "the" resistor and the nearby ground. ::: ::: :::BTW do you have JUST the single schematic page for that Heath unit or do you have the WHOLE enchilada, as that is what I have . . . even with some taco sauce. ::: ::: :::PLUSSSSS . . . I still think that you got one " DELL of a HEEL " on that unit . . . in its being considered against that first mentioned EICO, which eventually became a "carpetbagger" rip off. ::: ::: ::: :::Thassit . . . . ::: ::: ::: ::: :::73's de Edd ::: ::: ::: ::: |
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:
:::
::::All,
::::I picked up this tracer for $15.00. Terry warned me!
::::I know the transformer is good. There is a cap in this unit that has leaked all over the bottom of the chassis. It is T14 by the parts list, Dual .1 MFD 400V Bathtub. Never heard of a Bathtub Cap. Can i just use two .1 MFD 400V caps tied together at the B-? Then wire the leads to K11/O16 and pin 6 of 6HS7.
::::Is there a polarity on this cap or just a standard cap?
::::Thanks
::::Mitch
:
:
:
::::
:::
::Need advice,
::The DC caps are 8.8 MFD at 475 WV, I want to use 10 MFD at 160 Volt. Will this work, or do i really need 475 Volt caps? If so, where would i get such a cap with this rating?
::Mitch
::
:
All ????
The 2 meg R (K11) is physically connected across T14. I am clear on how to replace the caps as Edd explained and i just ordered two 10MFD 450V caps for the filter circuit.
Soooooo where should this R be connected after i replace the caps, can't see a point to point for it.
Thanks,
Mitch
ps Can anyone give me some details on a Bathtub cap, never heard of it.
That K11 resistor merely needs to be connected . . . or stretched between the two top connections that the two lugs of the "bathtub" were getting connected to in the circuitry. Since that original T14 " bathtub " with its two adjunct terminals, was providing a point for you to connect the K11 2 meg resistor between. Now I see the line about . . . the mention of "what is a bathtub capacitor" but I think that you now know that, OR further info and pictures on that identification can be found at the Crosley speaker thread. ::
Sir Mitch . . . . . .
At that time I had no idea what replacement procedure that you were going to utilize, either restuffing that canned units casing or use of external individual caps.
If using individual capacitors and discarding the old bathtub casing, I would have used the procedure below:
(Now if you didn't mechanically gut the old T14 " internals " and restuff with replacement caps.)
Instead you would have used two individual tubulars , in which case you need to install a properly mechanically positioned 2 lug insulated terminal strip, to then be able to receive each of the upper leads of the tubular caps to their appropriate lugs.
The two capacitors bottom leads are both going to ground.
That then, simultaneously, leaves mechanical support and 2 electrical connection points to place the K11 resistor between, akin to the electro / mechanics provided by the original bathtub configuration.
73's de Edd
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::Sir Mitch. . . . .
::
::
::I'm a tell a you whatta I thinka.
::That they had a WHOLE caboose of those caps left from ham transmitter kits and were just wanting to deplete stock from what was already bought.
::
::
::Now, since that DC power supply level is going to come up s l o w l y by virtue of the filaments of tubes having to warm up, its not going to be there INSTANTLY, as it would be with solid state equipment.
::
::
::I was just going to have you turn on the cold unit and monitor the output of the 6X5 where the volgtage would be rising up to . . . and then declining a bit from its very highest, and then see what was the worst case on peak voltage developed.
::
::
::
::BUT . . . in referencing to page 4 in the Heath manual . . . or page 6 Adobe, in their referencing to the troubleshooting voltage specs . . you then see that the voltage never is above the 260-300 VDC level at that 6X5.
::
::
::Go for your, maybe 10 ufd @450 VDC, rated units, as that is quite a cushion there . . . . . as cushiony as Mamma Cass.
::
::
::Thassit . . . .
::
::
::
::
::73's de Edd
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::Sir Mitch. . . . .
::::
::::
::::
::::That procedure will be just fine on solving that "bathtub" parts problem.
::::
::::
::::For one of the 0.1 mfd units, mount it right at the tube socket of the 6HS7 with one lead connected topin 6 and then take that caps other lead and connect it to pin 7 . . . which is the filament GROUND.
::::
::::
::::For the other 0.1 mfd, take note that your K11----016 and 012 resistors are having a common junction connection.
::::
::::
::::See which resistor is the CLOSEST to a ground connection and connect that other cap between "the" resistor and the nearby ground.
::::
::::
::::BTW do you have JUST the single schematic page for that Heath unit or do you have the WHOLE enchilada, as that is what I have . . . even with some taco sauce.
::::
::::
::::PLUSSSSS . . . I still think that you got one " DELL of a HEEL " on that unit . . . in its being considered against that first mentioned EICO, which eventually became a "carpetbagger" rip off.
::::
::::
::::
::::Thassit . . . .
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::73's de Edd
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::
::::
:::::All,
:::::I picked up this tracer for $15.00. Terry warned me!
:::::I know the transformer is good. There is a cap in this unit that has leaked all over the bottom of the chassis. It is T14 by the parts list, Dual .1 MFD 400V Bathtub. Never heard of a Bathtub Cap. Can i just use two .1 MFD 400V caps tied together at the B-? Then wire the leads to K11/O16 and pin 6 of 6HS7.
:::::Is there a polarity on this cap or just a standard cap?
:::::Thanks
:::::Mitch
::
::
::
:::::
::::
:::Need advice,
:::The DC caps are 8.8 MFD at 475 WV, I want to use 10 MFD at 160 Volt. Will this work, or do i really need 475 Volt caps? If so, where would i get such a cap with this rating?
:::Mitch
:::
::
:All ????
:The 2 meg R (K11) is physically connected across T14. I am clear on how to replace the caps as Edd explained and i just ordered two 10MFD 450V caps for the filter circuit.
:Soooooo where should this R be connected after i replace the caps, can't see a point to point for it.
:Thanks,
:Mitch
:
:
:ps Can anyone give me some details on a Bathtub cap, never heard of it.
:
:
:
:
: : : : : : : : : : :Sir Mitch . . . . . . : : : :That K11 resistor merely needs to be connected . . . or stretched between the two top connections that the two lugs of the "bathtub" were getting connected to in the circuitry. : : :At that time I had no idea what replacement procedure that you were going to utilize, either restuffing that canned units casing or use of external individual caps. : : :If using individual capacitors and discarding the old bathtub casing, I would have used the procedure below: : : : : : : :Since that original T14 " bathtub " with its two adjunct terminals, was providing a point for you to connect the K11 2 meg resistor between. : : :(Now if you didn't mechanically gut the old T14 " internals " and restuff with replacement caps.) : : :Instead you would have used two individual tubulars , in which case you need to install a properly mechanically positioned 2 lug insulated terminal strip, to then be able to receive each of the upper leads of the tubular caps to their appropriate lugs. : : :The two capacitors bottom leads are both going to ground. : : :That then, simultaneously, leaves mechanical support and 2 electrical connection points to place the K11 resistor between, akin to the electro / mechanics provided by the original bathtub configuration. : : : :Now I see the line about . . . the mention of "what is a bathtub capacitor" but I think that you now know that, OR further info and pictures on that identification can be found at the Crosley speaker thread. : : : : : :73's de Edd : : : : |
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:::
:::
::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: :::Sir Mitch. . . . . ::: ::: :::I'm a tell a you whatta I thinka. :::That they had a WHOLE caboose of those caps left from ham transmitter kits and were just wanting to deplete stock from what was already bought. ::: ::: :::Now, since that DC power supply level is going to come up s l o w l y by virtue of the filaments of tubes having to warm up, its not going to be there INSTANTLY, as it would be with solid state equipment. ::: ::: :::I was just going to have you turn on the cold unit and monitor the output of the 6X5 where the volgtage would be rising up to . . . and then declining a bit from its very highest, and then see what was the worst case on peak voltage developed. ::: ::: ::: :::BUT . . . in referencing to page 4 in the Heath manual . . . or page 6 Adobe, in their referencing to the troubleshooting voltage specs . . you then see that the voltage never is above the 260-300 VDC level at that 6X5. ::: ::: :::Go for your, maybe 10 ufd @450 VDC, rated units, as that is quite a cushion there . . . . . as cushiony as Mamma Cass. ::: ::: :::Thassit . . . . ::: ::: ::: ::: :::73's de Edd ::: ::: ::: ::: |
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::::
:::::
::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: :::::Sir Mitch. . . . . ::::: ::::: ::::: :::::That procedure will be just fine on solving that "bathtub" parts problem. ::::: ::::: :::::For one of the 0.1 mfd units, mount it right at the tube socket of the 6HS7 with one lead connected topin 6 and then take that caps other lead and connect it to pin 7 . . . which is the filament GROUND. ::::: ::::: :::::For the other 0.1 mfd, take note that your K11----016 and 012 resistors are having a common junction connection. ::::: ::::: :::::See which resistor is the CLOSEST to a ground connection and connect that other cap between "the" resistor and the nearby ground. ::::: ::::: :::::BTW do you have JUST the single schematic page for that Heath unit or do you have the WHOLE enchilada, as that is what I have . . . even with some taco sauce. ::::: ::::: :::::PLUSSSSS . . . I still think that you got one " DELL of a HEEL " on that unit . . . in its being considered against that first mentioned EICO, which eventually became a "carpetbagger" rip off. ::::: ::::: ::::: :::::Thassit . . . . ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: :::::73's de Edd ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: |
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::
:::::
::::::All,
::::::I picked up this tracer for $15.00. Terry warned me!
::::::I know the transformer is good. There is a cap in this unit that has leaked all over the bottom of the chassis. It is T14 by the parts list, Dual .1 MFD 400V Bathtub. Never heard of a Bathtub Cap. Can i just use two .1 MFD 400V caps tied together at the B-? Then wire the leads to K11/O16 and pin 6 of 6HS7.
::::::Is there a polarity on this cap or just a standard cap?
::::::Thanks
::::::Mitch
:::
:::
:::
::::::
:::::
::::Need advice,
::::The DC caps are 8.8 MFD at 475 WV, I want to use 10 MFD at 160 Volt. Will this work, or do i really need 475 Volt caps? If so, where would i get such a cap with this rating?
::::Mitch
::::
:::
::All ????
::The 2 meg R (K11) is physically connected across T14. I am clear on how to replace the caps as Edd explained and i just ordered two 10MFD 450V caps for the filter circuit.
::Soooooo where should this R be connected after i replace the caps, can't see a point to point for it.
::Thanks,
::Mitch
::
::
::ps Can anyone give me some details on a Bathtub cap, never heard of it.
::
:
T14 is removed, R checks show:
012 @ 122K, should be 100K.
016 @580K, should be 470K.
K11@2.5M, should be 2M, this is the R across T14.
I have not pulled T11 @ pin 8 (6X5), should i pull and measure now or wait till i replace all other components and make voltage measurements?
I am changing the DC caps also as they have a creeping crud leaking from the ends.
One last question for now, the DC caps read the MFD value and 25 W.V. and 475 W.V. What does W.V. mean? I assume it is 25 volt and 475 volt. What is W?
Mitch