Does anybody know why?
Do I need a special bulb? I figure neon bulbs are all the same.
Thanks,
Terry
Considering that you have a common land line "POT" connection, should have worked for you, unless possibly you were trying to use a prepackaged "Flicker Lite" with its somewhat high value of internal series resistor. If using a "naked" Ne-2 or Ne-51, you would then be working between the static 48VDC and the rings 90V INITIAL HOOKUP: Then the phone line high connects to the 4.7 resistor which is tied to the Neon lamp which has its other lead going to one end of the pot, with the center of the pot going to the other phone line connection. |
:At the radio station we always had neon bulbs to indicate when the phones were ringing. I have need of a similar option. I have two neon bulbs that trigger above 50VAC, and the ringer voltage used to be about 90VAC. However, I can't get them to light when connected across the incoming line.
:Does anybody know why?
:Do I need a special bulb? I figure neon bulbs are all the same.
:Thanks,
:Terry
:
:
: : :  : : : : : : : :Sir Terry. . . . . : : : :Considering that you have a common land line "POT" connection, should have worked for you, unless possibly you were trying to use a prepackaged "Flicker Lite" with its somewhat high value of internal series resistor. : : : : :  : : : :If using a "naked" Ne-2 or Ne-51, you would then be working between the static 48VDC and the rings 90V :pulses. : : :Unless in a dark area, nor laterally off central axis, since the flashes aren't all too distinct in a well lit viewing area. : : :Best to try evaluating with an ~ 100k variable linear pot, in series with a range limiting series 4.7k . : : : :INITIAL HOOKUP: : : : :Then the phone line high connects to the 4.7 resistor which is tied to the Neon lamp which has its other lead going to one end of the pot, with the center of the pot going to the other phone line connection. : : :In that manner you can then precisely fine tune the series current limiting resistive elements for the proper activating threshold . . . along with the optimal brighness of flash. : : :Once zeroed in on and optimized, a single resistor value will do it. : : : : : :73's de Edd : : :  : |
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Thanks Edd-
The bulb I have is an ALCO BND-3R. There's a resistor inside, but I have no idea what the value is. That's probably why it's not working.
As you can see it kicks on at about 70VAC.
I have two of these and was hoping to install one on the phone in the studio, and the other in the kitchen.
Any suggestions on something I can find at the "Shack"?
(I really wanted to use these 'cause they are so cool)
T.
:
:
::At the radio station we always had neon bulbs to indicate when the phones were ringing. I have need of a similar option. I have two neon bulbs that trigger above 50VAC, and the ringer voltage used to be about 90VAC. However, I can't get them to light when connected across the incoming line.
::Does anybody know why?
::Do I need a special bulb? I figure neon bulbs are all the same.
::Thanks,
::Terry
::
:
::
:: :: :: :: :: :: :: :: :: :: ::Sir Terry. . . . . :: :: :: ::Considering that you have a common land line "POT" connection, should have worked for you, unless possibly you were trying to use a prepackaged "Flicker Lite" with its somewhat high value of internal series resistor. :: :: :: :: :: :: :: :: ::If using a "naked" Ne-2 or Ne-51, you would then be working between the static 48VDC and the rings 90V ::pulses. :: :: ::Unless in a dark area, nor laterally off central axis, since the flashes aren't all too distinct in a well lit viewing area. :: :: ::Best to try evaluating with an ~ 100k variable linear pot, in series with a range limiting series 4.7k . :: :: :: ::INITIAL HOOKUP: :: :: :: ::Then the phone line high connects to the 4.7 resistor which is tied to the Neon lamp which has its other lead going to one end of the pot, with the center of the pot going to the other phone line connection. :: :: ::In that manner you can then precisely fine tune the series current limiting resistive elements for the proper activating threshold . . . along with the optimal brighness of flash. :: :: ::Once zeroed in on and optimized, a single resistor value will do it. :: :: :: :: :: ::73's de Edd
:: :: |
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:Thanks Edd-
:The bulb I have is an ALCO BND-3R. There's a resistor inside, but I have no idea what the value is. That's probably why it's not working.
:
:
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:As you can see it kicks on at about 70VAC.
:I have two of these and was hoping to install one on the phone in the studio, and the other in the kitchen.
:Any suggestions on something I can find at the "Shack"?
:(I really wanted to use these 'cause they are so cool)
:T.
::
::
:::At the radio station we always had neon bulbs to indicate when the phones were ringing. I have need of a similar option. I have two neon bulbs that trigger above 50VAC, and the ringer voltage used to be about 90VAC. However, I can't get them to light when connected across the incoming line.
:::Does anybody know why?
:::Do I need a special bulb? I figure neon bulbs are all the same.
:::Thanks,
:::Terry
:::
::
:
.With that large square end cap, and seems like they were offered in color options of red, blue, yellow, orange and green, with the red and orange filtering effects being the most compatible with the neons orange. BUT they were also offered with incandescant lamps inside. Just look carefully at that units construction, where you see the bit of an open area just above the silver colored part number band. . . . . when working with a Dremel tool and its cut off wheel . .. is having the part firmly gripped in the left hand and the area of interest at top and then that fists palm area firmly PLANTED upon the table below. (Using that right hand unsupported tool will usually / eventually end up with a "dig in" and a wild lateral unwanted cut being made OR a lateral bind with a stuck cutoff wheel can result in its fracturing and a z i i i i i i i nging away of its shards all over the place.) BTW . . in looking at the bottom photo of the illiminated lamp . . . you STILL missed optimum focus on the lamp . . proper, but depth of field is still good enough for me to catch the expanded scale loggings on your AC voltmeter in the background. |
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:::Sir Terry. . . . .
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:::Considering that you have a common land line "POT" connection, should have worked for you, unless possibly you were trying to use a prepackaged "Flicker Lite" with its somewhat high value of internal series resistor.
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::If using a "naked" Ne-2 or Ne-51, you would then be working between the static 48VDC and the rings 90V
:::pulses.
:::
:::
:::Unless in a dark area, nor laterally off central axis, since the flashes aren't all too distinct in a well lit viewing area.
:::
:::
:::Best to try evaluating with an ~ 100k variable linear pot, in series with a range limiting series 4.7k .
:::
:::
:::
:::INITIAL HOOKUP:
:::
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:::Then the phone line high connects to the 4.7 resistor which is tied to the Neon lamp which has its other lead going to one end of the pot, with the center of the pot going to the other phone line connection.
:::
:::
:::In that manner you can then precisely fine tune the series current limiting resistive elements for the proper activating threshold . . . along with the optimal brighness of flash.
:::
:::
:::Once zeroed in on and optimized, a single resistor value will do it.
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:::73's de Edd
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:Terry:
:Don't know what you're doing wrong, but any 120 Volt pilot lamp should work just fine. In fact, I am doing exactly the same thing with a Radio Shack lamp assembly that cost about a buck and a half, maybe for two of them, even. They work nic and bright. Last a loooong time, too.
:Lewis
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::Thanks Edd-
::The bulb I have is an ALCO BND-3R. There's a resistor inside, but I have no idea what the value is. That's probably why it's not working.
::
::
::
::
::
::As you can see it kicks on at about 70VAC.
::I have two of these and was hoping to install one on the phone in the studio, and the other in the kitchen.
::Any suggestions on something I can find at the "Shack"?
::(I really wanted to use these 'cause they are so cool)
::T.
:::
:::
::::At the radio station we always had neon bulbs to indicate when the phones were ringing. I have need of a similar option. I have two neon bulbs that trigger above 50VAC, and the ringer voltage used to be about 90VAC. However, I can't get them to light when connected across the incoming line.
::::Does anybody know why?
::::Do I need a special bulb? I figure neon bulbs are all the same.
::::Thanks,
::::Terry
::::
:::
::
:
:
: : : : : : : : : : :Sir Terry. . . . . : : : : :Su u u u u re looks like that's a either a NE-2H or A1 lamp tucked away up at the very tip end of that pilot lamp assembly. : : :Matter of fact I think that I even have some stowed away . . . some . . .where? : :.With that large square end cap, and seems like they were offered in color options of red, blue, yellow, orange and green, with the red and orange filtering effects being the most compatible with the neons orange. BUT they were also offered with incandescant lamps inside. : : :Can't even find anything on Alco anymore, since it is currently residing under Tyco's blankie. : : :I would have come up with my units back in late 60's thru 70's, when Alcos REAL forte was in switches. : : : : :Any suggestions on something I can find at the "Shack"? : : : :Why soitanly . . .theys gots NE-2's . . . BUT ! ! ! : : : :(I really wanted to use these 'cause they are so cool) : : : :Oh ye of little faith . . . . . ? : : : :Just look carefully at that units construction, where you see the bit of an open area just above the silver colored part number band. : : :Either a Zona / Exacto micro saw . .or . . . a # 409 cut off wheel mounted in a Dremel tool and cut off tool should permit you to make a (CONTROLLED * * *) radial cut around and JUST thru the plastic tube in that mentioned open area. : : :Then you slide the stuffings down, cast off the present current limiting resistor inside, and work with that existant "naked" neon only, in seeing what actual OPTIMUM value of resistor would be needed, by the procedure previously mentioned. : : :Then install a fixed resistor in place of the old one, slide back together and chemically fuse the acrylic tube together again with acetone, MEK, chloroform . . . or Super glue . . or 2 part clear epoxy . . etc. : : : : :(CONTROLLED * * *) : : . . . . when working with a Dremel tool and its cut off wheel . .. is having the part firmly gripped in the left hand and the area of interest at top and then that fists palm area firmly PLANTED upon the table below. : : :The right hand is then holding the Dremels body and brought up close enough to be able to engage with the work and then that fists palm portion is planted against the table , one then manipulates the tool with the fingers. : : : :(Using that right hand unsupported tool will usually / eventually end up with a "dig in" and a wild lateral unwanted cut being made OR a lateral bind with a stuck cutoff wheel can result in its fracturing and a z i i i i i i i nging away of its shards all over the place.) : : :HOW do I know ? . . . . .I'm probably on about the # 819th broken one . . . thru the years . . . and seems like there are 36 in a tube . . . And that's not even counting the even GREATER number of them, that I have successfully, totally used up, all the way down to the mounting mandrel. : : : :BTW . . in looking at the bottom photo of the illiminated lamp . . . you STILL missed optimum focus on the lamp . . proper, but depth of field is still good enough for me to catch the expanded scale loggings on your AC voltmeter in the background. : : :Which reveals the need of multiple vertical inline applications and buffings of Brasso, to that meters faceplate, to get it loooooking goooood, again. : : : : : : :73's de Edd : : : : |
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:::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: ::::Sir Terry. . . . . :::: :::: :::: ::::Considering that you have a common land line "POT" connection, should have worked for you, unless possibly you were trying to use a prepackaged "Flicker Lite" with its somewhat high value of internal series resistor. :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: ::::If using a "naked" Ne-2 or Ne-51, you would then be working between the static 48VDC and the rings 90V ::::pulses. :::: :::: ::::Unless in a dark area, nor laterally off central axis, since the flashes aren't all too distinct in a well lit viewing area. :::: :::: ::::Best to try evaluating with an ~ 100k variable linear pot, in series with a range limiting series 4.7k . :::: :::: :::: ::::INITIAL HOOKUP: :::: :::: :::: ::::Then the phone line high connects to the 4.7 resistor which is tied to the Neon lamp which has its other lead going to one end of the pot, with the center of the pot going to the other phone line connection. :::: :::: ::::In that manner you can then precisely fine tune the series current limiting resistive elements for the proper activating threshold . . . along with the optimal brighness of flash. :::: :::: ::::Once zeroed in on and optimized, a single resistor value will do it. :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: ::::73's de Edd :: :: :: :: :: :: ::Terry: ::Don't know what you're doing wrong, but any 120 Volt pilot lamp should work just fine. In fact, I am doing exactly the same thing with a Radio Shack lamp assembly that cost about a buck and a half, maybe for two of them, even. They work nic and bright. Last a loooong time, too. ::Lewis :: :: :: :: :: :::: :::: :::: :::: |
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:::Thanks Edd-
:::The bulb I have is an ALCO BND-3R. There's a resistor inside, but I have no idea what the value is. That's probably why it's not working.
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::As you can see it kicks on at about 70VAC.
:::I have two of these and was hoping to install one on the phone in the studio, and the other in the kitchen.
:::Any suggestions on something I can find at the "Shack"?
:::(I really wanted to use these 'cause they are so cool)
I am using a RadioShack 272-707 pilot light. Two for about 3 and a half bucks, orange package that lets the neon color shine thru nicely. Like Edd said, not too good in a real bright room, but works ok next to my computer.
Lewis
:::T.
::::
::::
:::::At the radio station we always had neon bulbs to indicate when the phones were ringing. I have need of a similar option. I have two neon bulbs that trigger above 50VAC, and the ringer voltage used to be about 90VAC. However, I can't get them to light when connected across the incoming line.
:::::Does anybody know why?
:::::Do I need a special bulb? I figure neon bulbs are all the same.
:::::Thanks,
:::::Terry
:::::
::::
:::
::
:
:Does anybody know why?
:Do I need a special bulb? I figure neon bulbs are all the same.
:Thanks,
:Terry
Yeah, I've been meaning to do something to that cover, but you know how it is...
Anyway- the assembly came apart really easily-
It has a 33K resistor in series. I tried going across the bulb itself, without the resistor and still nothing.
I know I'm missing something simple, and it's really bugging me.
When the lamp is hooked to my variable transformer, with or without the resistor, it lights just fine.
When connected across the red and green, (tip and ring- I've actually installed phone systems), nothing.
By the way, my phone is through my cable system. I just thought of that. Would THAT make a difference?
:
::Does anybody know why?
::Do I need a special bulb? I figure neon bulbs are all the same.
::Thanks,
::Terry
:
:Yeah, I've been meaning to do something to that cover, but you know how it is...
:Anyway- the assembly came apart really easily-
:
:
:
:It has a 33K resistor in series. I tried going across the bulb itself, without the resistor and still nothing.
:
:I know I'm missing something simple, and it's really bugging me.
:When the lamp is hooked to my variable transformer, with or without the resistor, it lights just fine.
:When connected across the red and green, (tip and ring- I've actually installed phone systems), nothing.
:By the way, my phone is through my cable system. I just thought of that. Would THAT make a difference?
:
:Cable system, huh? Where are you trying to connect the neon bulb? Maybe you need to connect your meter to the neon and see if you ARE getting about 105 Volts into the bulb in the first place. On that little plastic connector going to the phone, the tip and ring (that's what the phone co calls the wires from the central office from the days when an operator plugged a 327 plug into the switchboard and said "Numbah, purleez") will be the center two connectors, and should be color coded red and green.
Ah, but you know all this, if you ever installed a phone.
Lewis
::
:
:::Does anybody know why?
:::Do I need a special bulb? I figure neon bulbs are all the same.
:::Thanks,
:::Terry
::
::Yeah, I've been meaning to do something to that cover, but you know how it is...
::Anyway- the assembly came apart really easily-
::
::
::
::It has a 33K resistor in series. I tried going across the bulb itself, without the resistor and still nothing.
::
::I know I'm missing something simple, and it's really bugging me.
::When the lamp is hooked to my variable transformer, with or without the resistor, it lights just fine.
::When connected across the red and green, (tip and ring- I've actually installed phone systems), nothing.
::By the way, my phone is through my cable system. I just thought of that. Would THAT make a difference?
::
:
:
:
:
:
::Cable system, huh? Where are you trying to connect the neon bulb? Maybe you need to connect your meter to the neon and see if you ARE getting about 105 Volts into the bulb in the first place. On that little plastic connector going to the phone, the tip and ring (that's what the phone co calls the wires from the central office from the days when an operator plugged a 327 plug into the switchboard and said "Numbah, purleez") will be the center two connectors, and should be color coded red and green.
:Ah, but you know all this, if you ever installed a phone.
:Lewis
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Sometimes I think my senior moments are becoming senior days.
Ha ha
T.
Also looks like that shell of the unit was punier than I remembered, and your just having to "un punch" a couple of side indentions that they had made that was holding the two parts together, and then the shell just pulls apart. I'm just thinking that ring signal / tone now would be at voice levels and with the ring being a square wave probably being at TTL high levels,since most modern phones are using SS ringer circuits. I guess that you are now up to the analysis level of LIBERALLY salivating on your 1st and index fingers, putting them across red and green wires and then calling a friend to give you a ring back . . . . and then you will just see how much of a RING that there really is ! |
At the radio station we always had neon bulbs to indicate when the phones were ringing. I have need of a similar option. I have two neon bulbs that trigger above 50VAC, and the ringer voltage used to be about 90VAC. However, I can't get them to light when connected across the incoming line. Yeah, I've been meaning to do something to that cover, but you know how it is... It has a 33K resistor in series. I tried going across the bulb itself, without the resistor and still nothing. I know I'm missing something simple, and it's really bugging me. Are you kidding? I've installed them thar switchboards. Well, maybe not. You're right though, I haven't put an analogue meter across the line. I don't have enough friends. Nobody calls. I spent most of my life doing two things, being a radio personality, (which pays zip!), and low voltage installer, (which pays for being on the radio). I've installed cable, but I got out before combined cable, internet and phone came across a single RG-6. Heck, we didn't even have compression F connectors. I still have my crimping tool, and somewhere my punch down tool. I've installed ten thousand dollar home theater systems, and can't get a neon bulb to light across the red and green telco lines.
Does anybody know why?
Do I need a special bulb? I figure neon bulbs are all the same.
Thanks,
Terry
Anyway- the assembly came apart really easily-
When the lamp is hooked to my variable transformer, with or without the resistor, it lights just fine.
When connected across the red and green, (tip and ring- I've actually installed phone systems), nothing.
By the way, my phone is through my cable system. I just thought of that. Would THAT make a difference?
Cable system, huh? Where are you trying to connect the neon bulb? Maybe you need to connect your meter to the neon and see if you ARE getting about 105 Volts into the bulb in the first place. On that little plastic connector going to the phone, the tip and ring (that's what the phone co calls the wires from the central office from the days when an operator plugged a 327 plug into the switchboard and said "Numbah, purleez") will be the center two connectors, and should be color coded red and green.
Ah, but you know all this, if you ever installed a phone.
Sometimes I think my senior moments are becoming senior days.
Ha ha
:
:
: : : : : : : : :Sir Terry. . . . . : : : :Wel l l l, it looks like the thread activity has moved over here to the far left . . . with you being way down HERE and adressing your self way up at the TOP . . . just exactly what are you not telling us ? : : : :Also looks like that shell of the unit was punier than I remembered, and your just having to "un punch" a couple of side indentions that they had made that was holding the two parts together, and then the shell just pulls apart. : : : : : :By the way, my phone is through my cable system. I just thought of that. Would THAT make a difference? : : : : : :Bingo . . . that is surely the answer . . . : : : :I'm just thinking that ring signal / tone now would be at voice levels and with the ring being a square wave probably being at TTL high levels,since most modern phones are using SS ringer circuits. : : :An I'll just bet that they don't have an upverter to get that low level ring signal up to the standard 20~ at 90v ring signal UNLESS a customer needs it / requests for his auntie-quated "POT". : : :If you find the ring level being as I mentioned, would you then be in the market for a high . . . no make that a HIGH intensity red LED with a series current limiting resistor, tailored to use the now mentioned lower ring level.With all being stuffed into that same shell housing and end cap which you are so fully mesmerized with. : : : :I guess that you are now up to the analysis level of LIBERALLY salivating on your 1st and index fingers, putting them across red and green wires and then calling a friend to give you a ring back . . . . and then you will just see how much of a RING that there really is ! : : : : : :73's de Edd : : : : |
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I'll take it.
I didn't mean to imply anything by moving back to the top. Well, there's that ego thing of course.
Who knew what an interesting thread this would be.
How do you do that blue squiggly thing anyway?
If I wet those fingers will you hold my hand?
This is the biggest compliment I could ever give-
You remind me of Curt.
Your knowledge, consideration and the time and effort you always take to help even the greenest newbie has always impressed me. And you do it with such panache.
I said this in another comment, and I'll say it again-
You ARE the man.
Thanks for your help.
Terry
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:
:
:At the radio station we always had neon bulbs to indicate when the phones were ringing. I have need of a similar option. I have two neon bulbs that trigger above 50VAC, and the ringer voltage used to be about 90VAC. However, I can't get them to light when connected across the incoming line.
:Does anybody know why?
:Do I need a special bulb? I figure neon bulbs are all the same.
:Thanks,
:Terry
:
:Yeah, I've been meaning to do something to that cover, but you know how it is...
:Anyway- the assembly came apart really easily-
:
:
:
:It has a 33K resistor in series. I tried going across the bulb itself, without the resistor and still nothing.
:
:I know I'm missing something simple, and it's really bugging me.
:When the lamp is hooked to my variable transformer, with or without the resistor, it lights just fine.
:When connected across the red and green, (tip and ring- I've actually installed phone systems), nothing.
:By the way, my phone is through my cable system. I just thought of that. Would THAT make a difference?
:
:
:
:
:
:
:Cable system, huh? Where are you trying to connect the neon bulb? Maybe you need to connect your meter to the neon and see if you ARE getting about 105 Volts into the bulb in the first place. On that little plastic connector going to the phone, the tip and ring (that's what the phone co calls the wires from the central office from the days when an operator plugged a 327 plug into the switchboard and said "Numbah, purleez") will be the center two connectors, and should be color coded red and green.
:Ah, but you know all this, if you ever installed a phone.
:Lewis
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:Are you kidding? I've installed them thar switchboards. Well, maybe not. You're right though, I haven't put an analogue meter across the line. I don't have enough friends. Nobody calls.
:
:I spent most of my life doing two things, being a radio personality, (which pays zip!), and low voltage installer, (which pays for being on the radio). I've installed cable, but I got out before combined cable, internet and phone came across a single RG-6. Heck, we didn't even have compression F connectors. I still have my crimping tool, and somewhere my punch down tool. I've installed ten thousand dollar home theater systems, and can't get a neon bulb to light across the red and green telco lines.
:Sometimes I think my senior moments are becoming senior days.
:Ha ha
:T.
:
:
Too bad. Most likely you are an intelligent person who just never figured out that it might be a good idea to learn something other than how to connect the red wire to the red and the green to the green.
::
::Are you kidding? I've installed them thar switchboards. Well, maybe not. You're right though, I haven't put an analogue meter across the line. I don't have enough friends. Nobody calls.
::
::I spent most of my life doing two things, being a radio personality, (which pays zip!), and low voltage installer, (which pays for being on the radio). I've installed cable, but I got out before combined cable, internet and phone came across a single RG-6. Heck, we didn't even have compression F connectors. I still have my crimping tool, and somewhere my punch down tool. I've installed ten thousand dollar home theater systems, and can't get a neon bulb to light across the red and green telco lines.
::Sometimes I think my senior moments are becoming senior days.
::Ha ha
::T.
::
::
:
:
:Too bad. Most likely you are an intelligent person who just never figured out that it might be a good idea to learn something other than how to connect the red wire to the red and the green to the green.
OUCH! That's mean all right. I'll stand behind every comment I've made, and the resulting comments of appreciation. I've been an installer and repair technician for over 30 years and successfully owned my own business "Reliable Sound and Video" here in Louisville for 10 of those years. At one time I was the only installer in town for every retail outlet. If you can find ONE statement I've made that reflects your comment that I have no idea of what I'm doing, then I will most sincerely apologize for that comment.
I can only assume that you're having a bad day and your way of dealing with it to disparage someone. I don't think thread bashing is it.
I've changed my mind. When I lick those fingers I'd rather have YOU holding them.
Now go drink some more coffee and bug someone else.
Terry Decker
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:::Are you kidding? I've installed them thar switchboards. Well, maybe not. You're right though, I haven't put an analogue meter across the line. I don't have enough friends. Nobody calls.
:::
:::I spent most of my life doing two things, being a radio personality, (which pays zip!), and low voltage installer, (which pays for being on the radio). I've installed cable, but I got out before combined cable, internet and phone came across a single RG-6. Heck, we didn't even have compression F connectors. I still have my crimping tool, and somewhere my punch down tool. I've installed ten thousand dollar home theater systems, and can't get a neon bulb to light across the red and green telco lines.
:::Sometimes I think my senior moments are becoming senior days.
:::Ha ha
:::T.
:::
:::
::
:
::
::Too bad. Most likely you are an intelligent person who just never figured out that it might be a good idea to learn something other than how to connect the red wire to the red and the green to the green.
:
:OUCH! That's mean all right. I'll stand behind every comment I've made, and the resulting comments of appreciation. I've been an installer and repair technician for over 30 years and successfully owned my own business "Reliable Sound and Video" here in Louisville for 10 of those years. At one time I was the only installer in town for every retail outlet. If you can find ONE statement I've made that reflects your comment that I have no idea of what I'm doing, then I will most sincerely apologize for that comment.
:I can only assume that you're having a bad day and your way of dealing with it to disparage someone. I don't think thread bashing is it.
:I've changed my mind. When I lick those fingers I'd rather have YOU holding them.
:Now go drink some more coffee and bug someone else.
:Terry Decker
::
I've seen the same thing as the mean guy. A lot of techs and even successful repair business owners do not really know what they are doing. They are good at hooking things up and fixing obvious problems. Most of their repairs are done by changing parts until things work. Over time they may learn which part to change to fix a certain problem. Exactly what do those parts do? They haven't a clue. All they know is that when the system has sympton A, you change part Z.
These are not stupid men. They just never had the desire to learn how things really work. They often get along fine for many years and are well respected by their friends and business associates. The ones who suffer are the customers who pay for the labor while they are flailing around and the unneeded parts changed before they finally hit on the bad one or happen to stumble on the real problem. All the poor customer knows is his system didn't work before but now it does. Everyone loses. The repair guy has a lower productivity and the customer pays too much.
A little knowledge does not go a long way, it just lets people fool themselves.
:::
:::Too bad. Most likely you are an intelligent person who just never figured out that it might be a good idea to learn something other than how to connect the red wire to the red and the green to the green.
::
::OUCH! That's mean all right. I'll stand behind every comment I've made, and the resulting comments of appreciation. I've been an installer and repair technician for over 30 years and successfully owned my own business "Reliable Sound and Video" here in Louisville for 10 of those years. At one time I was the only installer in town for every retail outlet. If you can find ONE statement I've made that reflects your comment that I have no idea of what I'm doing, then I will most sincerely apologize for that comment.
::I can only assume that you're having a bad day and your way of dealing with it to disparage someone. I don't think thread bashing is it.
::I've changed my mind. When I lick those fingers I'd rather have YOU holding them.
::Now go drink some more coffee and bug someone else.
::Terry Decker
:::
:
:I've seen the same thing as the mean guy. A lot of techs and even successful repair business owners do not really know what they are doing. They are good at hooking things up and fixing obvious problems. Most of their repairs are done by changing parts until things work. Over time they may learn which part to change to fix a certain problem. Exactly what do those parts do? They haven't a clue. All they know is that when the system has sympton A, you change part Z.
:
:These are not stupid men. They just never had the desire to learn how things really work. They often get along fine for many years and are well respected by their friends and business associates. The ones who suffer are the customers who pay for the labor while they are flailing around and the unneeded parts changed before they finally hit on the bad one or happen to stumble on the real problem. All the poor customer knows is his system didn't work before but now it does. Everyone loses. The repair guy has a lower productivity and the customer pays too much.
:
:A little knowledge does not go a long way, it just lets people fool themselves.
:
:
:
Anyway, see my new post about the neon bulb question.
Terry
::::
::::Too bad. Most likely you are an intelligent person who just never figured out that it might be a good idea to learn something other than how to connect the red wire to the red and the green to the green.
:::
:::OUCH! That's mean all right. I'll stand behind every comment I've made, and the resulting comments of appreciation. I've been an installer and repair technician for over 30 years and successfully owned my own business "Reliable Sound and Video" here in Louisville for 10 of those years. At one time I was the only installer in town for every retail outlet. If you can find ONE statement I've made that reflects your comment that I have no idea of what I'm doing, then I will most sincerely apologize for that comment.
:::I can only assume that you're having a bad day and your way of dealing with it to disparage someone. I don't think thread bashing is it.
:::I've changed my mind. When I lick those fingers I'd rather have YOU holding them.
:::Now go drink some more coffee and bug someone else.
:::Terry Decker
::::
::
::I've seen the same thing as the mean guy. A lot of techs and even successful repair business owners do not really know what they are doing. They are good at hooking things up and fixing obvious problems. Most of their repairs are done by changing parts until things work. Over time they may learn which part to change to fix a certain problem. Exactly what do those parts do? They haven't a clue. All they know is that when the system has sympton A, you change part Z.
::
::These are not stupid men. They just never had the desire to learn how things really work. They often get along fine for many years and are well respected by their friends and business associates. The ones who suffer are the customers who pay for the labor while they are flailing around and the unneeded parts changed before they finally hit on the bad one or happen to stumble on the real problem. All the poor customer knows is his system didn't work before but now it does. Everyone loses. The repair guy has a lower productivity and the customer pays too much.
::
::A little knowledge does not go a long way, it just lets people fool themselves.
::
::
::
:
:Gee, THAT didn't make me feel a lot better. I think if you go back and check some of my previous threads and comments you'll find that I AM a little better than some goober who can fit tab "A" into slot "B". I've run into those people too. I just don't try and ruin their day.
:
:And, yeah, I'm getting too defensive. I just got some really bad news today and that's probably affecting my mood.
:Anyway, see my new post about the neon bulb question.
:Terry
::
:
: Hey Terry,
Don't let these comments bother you too much. Some days you're the pigeon and somedays you're the statue.
I've never met anyone who knew everything but some thought they did.
Bob Masse
:
:::::
:::::Too bad. Most likely you are an intelligent person who just never figured out that it might be a good idea to learn something other than how to connect the red wire to the red and the green to the green.
::::
::::OUCH! That's mean all right. I'll stand behind every comment I've made, and the resulting comments of appreciation. I've been an installer and repair technician for over 30 years and successfully owned my own business "Reliable Sound and Video" here in Louisville for 10 of those years. At one time I was the only installer in town for every retail outlet. If you can find ONE statement I've made that reflects your comment that I have no idea of what I'm doing, then I will most sincerely apologize for that comment.
::::I can only assume that you're having a bad day and your way of dealing with it to disparage someone. I don't think thread bashing is it.
::::I've changed my mind. When I lick those fingers I'd rather have YOU holding them.
::::Now go drink some more coffee and bug someone else.
::::Terry Decker
:::::
:::
:::I've seen the same thing as the mean guy. A lot of techs and even successful repair business owners do not really know what they are doing. They are good at hooking things up and fixing obvious problems. Most of their repairs are done by changing parts until things work. Over time they may learn which part to change to fix a certain problem. Exactly what do those parts do? They haven't a clue. All they know is that when the system has sympton A, you change part Z.
:::
:::These are not stupid men. They just never had the desire to learn how things really work. They often get along fine for many years and are well respected by their friends and business associates. The ones who suffer are the customers who pay for the labor while they are flailing around and the unneeded parts changed before they finally hit on the bad one or happen to stumble on the real problem. All the poor customer knows is his system didn't work before but now it does. Everyone loses. The repair guy has a lower productivity and the customer pays too much.
:::
:::A little knowledge does not go a long way, it just lets people fool themselves.
:::
:::
:::
::
::Gee, THAT didn't make me feel a lot better. I think if you go back and check some of my previous threads and comments you'll find that I AM a little better than some goober who can fit tab "A" into slot "B". I've run into those people too. I just don't try and ruin their day.
::
::And, yeah, I'm getting too defensive. I just got some really bad news today and that's probably affecting my mood.
::Anyway, see my new post about the neon bulb question.
::Terry
:::
::
:: Hey Terry,
:Don't let these comments bother you too much. Some days you're the pigeon and somedays you're the statue.
:I've never met anyone who knew everything but some thought they did.
:Bob Masse
Terry:
you can also get a photocell, a sensitive relay, a power source (I used 12 Volts from my security system). The neon bulb and the photocell opeate the relay, and you can make most anything you can think of happen when the phone rings. best of all. you can operate a bunch og neon bulbs without loading the phone line down the least bit.
Lewis
::
::
:
:
:
:
::::::
::::::Too bad. Most likely you are an intelligent person who just never figured out that it might be a good idea to learn something other than how to connect the red wire to the red and the green to the green.
:::::
:::::OUCH! That's mean all right. I'll stand behind every comment I've made, and the resulting comments of appreciation. I've been an installer and repair technician for over 30 years and successfully owned my own business "Reliable Sound and Video" here in Louisville for 10 of those years. At one time I was the only installer in town for every retail outlet. If you can find ONE statement I've made that reflects your comment that I have no idea of what I'm doing, then I will most sincerely apologize for that comment.
:::::I can only assume that you're having a bad day and your way of dealing with it to disparage someone. I don't think thread bashing is it.
:::::I've changed my mind. When I lick those fingers I'd rather have YOU holding them.
:::::Now go drink some more coffee and bug someone else.
:::::Terry Decker
::::::
::::
::::I've seen the same thing as the mean guy. A lot of techs and even successful repair business owners do not really know what they are doing. They are good at hooking things up and fixing obvious problems. Most of their repairs are done by changing parts until things work. Over time they may learn which part to change to fix a certain problem. Exactly what do those parts do? They haven't a clue. All they know is that when the system has sympton A, you change part Z.
::::
::::These are not stupid men. They just never had the desire to learn how things really work. They often get along fine for many years and are well respected by their friends and business associates. The ones who suffer are the customers who pay for the labor while they are flailing around and the unneeded parts changed before they finally hit on the bad one or happen to stumble on the real problem. All the poor customer knows is his system didn't work before but now it does. Everyone loses. The repair guy has a lower productivity and the customer pays too much.
::::
::::A little knowledge does not go a long way, it just lets people fool themselves.
::::
::::
::::
:::
:::Gee, THAT didn't make me feel a lot better. I think if you go back and check some of my previous threads and comments you'll find that I AM a little better than some goober who can fit tab "A" into slot "B". I've run into those people too. I just don't try and ruin their day.
:::
:::And, yeah, I'm getting too defensive. I just got some really bad news today and that's probably affecting my mood.
:::Anyway, see my new post about the neon bulb question.
:::Terry
::::
:::
::: Hey Terry,
::Don't let these comments bother you too much. Some days you're the pigeon and somedays you're the statue.
::I've never met anyone who knew everything but some thought they did.
::Bob Masse
:
:
:
:
:
:Terry:
:you can also get a photocell, a sensitive relay, a power source (I used 12 Volts from my security system). The neon bulb and the photocell opeate the relay, and you can make most anything you can think of happen when the phone rings. best of all. you can operate a bunch og neon bulbs without loading the phone line down the least bit.
:Lewis
:::
:::
::
::
::
::
:
Thanks for the kind words and advice.
I've been dealing with some MAJOR physical issues.
Anyway-
I'd thought about some kind of external device.
I'm just trying to get this going so I can know when a call is coming in while I'm recording.
Thanks for all the time and effort.
(see my comments and results on the other thread)
Speaking of threads, this one sure got weird!
Terry
::::::
::::::Too bad. Most likely you are an intelligent person who just never figured out that it might be a good idea to learn something other than how to connect the red wire to the red and the green to the green.
:::::
:::::OUCH! That's mean all right. I'll stand behind every comment I've made, and the resulting comments of appreciation. I've been an installer and repair technician for over 30 years and successfully owned my own business "Reliable Sound and Video" here in Louisville for 10 of those years. At one time I was the only installer in town for every retail outlet. If you can find ONE statement I've made that reflects your comment that I have no idea of what I'm doing, then I will most sincerely apologize for that comment.
:::::I can only assume that you're having a bad day and your way of dealing with it to disparage someone. I don't think thread bashing is it.
:::::I've changed my mind. When I lick those fingers I'd rather have YOU holding them.
:::::Now go drink some more coffee and bug someone else.
:::::Terry Decker
::::::
::::
::::I've seen the same thing as the mean guy. A lot of techs and even successful repair business owners do not really know what they are doing. They are good at hooking things up and fixing obvious problems. Most of their repairs are done by changing parts until things work. Over time they may learn which part to change to fix a certain problem. Exactly what do those parts do? They haven't a clue. All they know is that when the system has sympton A, you change part Z.
::::
::::These are not stupid men. They just never had the desire to learn how things really work. They often get along fine for many years and are well respected by their friends and business associates. The ones who suffer are the customers who pay for the labor while they are flailing around and the unneeded parts changed before they finally hit on the bad one or happen to stumble on the real problem. All the poor customer knows is his system didn't work before but now it does. Everyone loses. The repair guy has a lower productivity and the customer pays too much.
::::
::::A little knowledge does not go a long way, it just lets people fool themselves.
::::
::::
::::
:::
:::Gee, THAT didn't make me feel a lot better. I think if you go back and check some of my previous threads and comments you'll find that I AM a little better than some goober who can fit tab "A" into slot "B". I've run into those people too. I just don't try and ruin their day.
:::
:::And, yeah, I'm getting too defensive. I just got some really bad news today and that's probably affecting my mood.
:::Anyway, see my new post about the neon bulb question.
:::Terry
::::
:::
::: Hey Terry,
::Don't let these comments bother you too much. Some days you're the pigeon and somedays you're the statue.
::I've never met anyone who knew everything but some thought they did.
::Bob Masse
:
:
:
:
:
:Terry:
:you can also get a photocell, a sensitive relay, a power source (I used 12 Volts from my security system). The neon bulb and the photocell opeate the relay, and you can make most anything you can think of happen when the phone rings. best of all. you can operate a bunch og neon bulbs without loading the phone line down the least bit.
:Lewis
:::
:::
::
::
::
::
:
Sorry it took so long to get back. I'm having this MAJOR problem with a swollen foot-
Anyway. This is bugging the hell out of me. I moved the black lead on the ringer from F to L1 and put the bulb across L1 and L2. It STILL won't light. I've tried it straight across the red and green. Nothing. I picked up this great telephone ringer box the other day. I put the bulb across L1 and L2 and cranked the magneto. The bulb flashes just like it should.
How can the chime work and not the bulb?
I don't get it.
PS, We actually DID solve the problem with the payphone. I just couldn't find a way to physically mount the correct hook switch.
Thanks again for the time and effort-
Terry
:Lewis-
:Sorry it took so long to get back. I'm having this MAJOR problem with a swollen foot-
:Anyway. This is bugging the hell out of me. I moved the black lead on the ringer from F to L1 and put the bulb across L1 and L2. It STILL won't light. I've tried it straight across the red and green. Nothing. I picked up this great telephone ringer box the other day. I put the bulb across L1 and L2 and cranked the magneto. The bulb flashes just like it should.
:How can the chime work and not the bulb?
:I don't get it.
:
:PS, We actually DID solve the problem with the payphone. I just couldn't find a way to physically mount the correct hook switch.
:Thanks again for the time and effort-
:Terry
:
Decisions . . . decisions . . .decisions . . . |
:It has been suggested that you measure the ring voltage. Why do you insist on flailing around instead? All you have to do is measurte the ring voltage and you'll know what is going on. This is a simple problem. Why make it hard?
<><><>
:
:
<><><>
::Lewis-
::Sorry it took so long to get back. I'm having this MAJOR problem with a swollen foot-
::Anyway. This is bugging the hell out of me. I moved the black lead on the ringer from F to L1 and put the bulb across L1 and L2. It STILL won't light. I've tried it straight across the red and green. Nothing. I picked up this great telephone ringer box the other day. I put the bulb across L1 and L2 and cranked the magneto. The bulb flashes just like it should.
::How can the chime work and not the bulb?
::I don't get it.
::
::PS, We actually DID solve the problem with the payphone. I just couldn't find a way to physically mount the correct hook switch.
::Thanks again for the time and effort-
::Terry
::
:
Lewis
:Lewis
:
Actually, I'm pretty proud.
Terry
:At the radio station we always had neon bulbs to indicate when the phones were ringing. I have need of a similar option. I have two neon bulbs that trigger above 50VAC, and the ringer voltage used to be about 90VAC. However, I can't get them to light when connected across the incoming line.
:Does anybody know why?
:Do I need a special bulb? I figure neon bulbs are all the same.
:Thanks,
:Terry
:
:
Actually, it WOULD light across the phone line, since the ring voltage was around 100 volts AC. The princess phone used an external power supply on the yellow and black leads because it was a regular incandescent light. My problem is that the ring voltage from my cable phone is only 50VAC and a neon requires 70VAC or above. I'm working on an LED system, although I probably should have just quit when the neon didn't work. It might have saved me a lot of embarrassment.
::At the radio station we always had neon bulbs to indicate when the phones were ringing. I have need of a similar option. I have two neon bulbs that trigger above 50VAC, and the ringer voltage used to be about 90VAC. However, I can't get them to light when connected across the incoming line.
::Does anybody know why?
::Do I need a special bulb? I figure neon bulbs are all the same.
::Thanks,
::Terry
::
:
And then . . . if you are still HUNG up on using them thar' "freon" "bubs", you could always go to the Dollah' store and get some of those thar' twofer' a dollah . . . or fiffy cents a peez, 9 volts battum-eries and do as shown in the supplied wiring "diaphragm". Experiment with the battery count and the neons series current limiting resistor value to get your desired flash brightness. |
::I think you need to look at the circuit of the phone system. I am not sure about the radio station but many "light up phones" that used Neon Lamps had an external power supply for the lights. I don't think a Neon Lamp can be completly powered and illunimate brightly on the short ring pules over a phone line connected directly across it.
::
:Actually, it WOULD light across the phone line, since the ring voltage was around 100 volts AC. The princess phone used an external power supply on the yellow and black leads because it was a regular incandescent light. My problem is that the ring voltage from my cable phone is only 50VAC and a neon requires 70VAC or above. I'm working on an LED system, although I probably should have just quit when the neon didn't work. It might have saved me a lot of embarrassment.
:::At the radio station we always had neon bulbs to indicate when the phones were ringing. I have need of a similar option. I have two neon bulbs that trigger above 50VAC, and the ringer voltage used to be about 90VAC. However, I can't get them to light when connected across the incoming line.
:::Does anybody know why?
:::Do I need a special bulb? I figure neon bulbs are all the same.
:::Thanks,
:::Terry
:::
::
:
:
: : : : : : : : : :Sir . . . . . . Terry : : : :And then . . . if you are still HUNG up on using them thar' "freon" "bubs", you could always go to the Dollah' store and get some of those thar' twofer' a dollah . . . or fiffy cents a peez, 9 volts battum-eries and do as shown in the supplied wiring "diaphragm". : : :You are then "prebiasing" the NE-2 lamp such that the lower ringer voltage then shoots above the NE-2's firing threshold on its added presence. : : :No quiescent drain on the 9 V batteries, so they should last one loooong - loooong - looong time. : : : :Experiment with the battery count and the neons series current limiting resistor value to get your desired flash brightness. : : : :  : : : : : :73's de Edd : : : : |
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:::I think you need to look at the circuit of the phone system. I am not sure about the radio station but many "light up phones" that used Neon Lamps had an external power supply for the lights. I don't think a Neon Lamp can be completly powered and illunimate brightly on the short ring pules over a phone line connected directly across it.
:::
::Actually, it WOULD light across the phone line, since the ring voltage was around 100 volts AC. The princess phone used an external power supply on the yellow and black leads because it was a regular incandescent light. My problem is that the ring voltage from my cable phone is only 50VAC and a neon requires 70VAC or above. I'm working on an LED system, although I probably should have just quit when the neon didn't work. It might have saved me a lot of embarrassment.
::::At the radio station we always had neon bulbs to indicate when the phones were ringing. I have need of a similar option. I have two neon bulbs that trigger above 50VAC, and the ringer voltage used to be about 90VAC. However, I can't get them to light when connected across the incoming line.
::::Does anybody know why?
::::Do I need a special bulb? I figure neon bulbs are all the same.
::::Thanks,
::::Terry
::::
:::
::
:
As Always,
Thanks-
Terry