Hello all! I have a great big old power supply and another amp (6L6) push pull that have these long bar shaped components.I have not really got into repairing these yet.I assume these are power resistors of some sort, but why the departure from the regular round ceramic wire wound type?Is this just a solid type resistive element like stove element material and are these types still used or are the wire wound ones better?

:Hello all! I have a great big old power supply and another amp (6L6) push pull that have these long bar shaped components.I have not really got into repairing these yet.I assume these are power resistors of some sort, but why the departure from the regular round ceramic wire wound type?Is this just a solid type resistive element like stove element material and are these types still used or are the wire wound ones better?
:
There are known as "Cand-ohm" brand resistors

They seemed to have used them widely because (I think) it was cost effective and it allowed the manufacturer to have several custom values all in one piece at a good price and it was bolted to the chassis for heat dissipation.

They do seem to go "open" and cause lots of headaches.

Individual resistors of proper wattage are easily substituted and usually all sections should be replaced when any one section goes "open".

::Hello all! I have a great big old power supply and another amp (6L6) push pull that have these long bar shaped components.I have not really got into repairing these yet.I assume these are power resistors of some sort, but why the departure from the regular round ceramic wire wound type?Is this just a solid type resistive element like stove element material and are these types still used or are the wire wound ones better?
::Thankyou Peter!Yes that is exactly it!Now it makes sense because I don't recall ever seeing pictures of these in any book.
:
:I assume you are in reference to flat metal resistor "bars" bolted to the chassis and they typically have several tabs for various taps or values?
:There are known as "Cand-ohm" brand resistors
:
:They seemed to have used them widely because (I think) it was cost effective and it allowed the manufacturer to have several custom values all in one piece at a good price and it was bolted to the chassis for heat dissipation.
:
:They do seem to go "open" and cause lots of headaches.
:
:Individual resistors of proper wattage are easily substituted and usually all sections should be replaced when any one section goes "open".
:

Check this thread for help on candohm resistors. It worked for me on my GE106.

Terry F

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/forums/messages/097/m0056097.htm

Yes, you can replace he open links with wirewound resistors of the appropriate wattage, after you have eliminated the reason for their failure, i.e. a short or defective filter cap. There is little or no reason why they would fail except for a fault downstream, or poor initial design.

A lot of these also had bolts driven through their core to shunt heat to the chassis gtom both sides. Do the same, make sure you have ceramic insulators on both ends of the replacement, and you're good to go. The values were pretty tight, however don't fret if you are off by +-10% or so.

:Hello all! I have a great big old power supply and another amp (6L6) push pull that have these long bar shaped components.I have not really got into repairing these yet.I assume these are power resistors of some sort, but why the departure from the regular round ceramic wire wound type?Is this just a solid type resistive element like stove element material and are these types still used or are the wire wound ones better?
:

I may differ from the pack on this one. I ALWAYS repalce Cand-ohm resistors, even if they measure good.

These are notorious for shorting their elements to their grounded metal jackets. The result will be quite ugly, the recitifier will overheat and suck in. Usually the transformer gets wrecked in the process.

I can't see replacing all those capacitors and leaving a thing like that in the radio. The breakdown of the insulation that causes this is more likely as the Cand-ohm resistor gets older.

My recommendation, replace it, open or not.

Best Regards,

Bill Grimm