( Hm m m m m Micro9 ? . . . Micro9 ? . . . I don't think that I'm even going to ask. . . Now Standards Micronic Ruby . . . I can handle.) For your troubleshooting assistance, herewith submitted, one each, LARGE unitized schematic of the Philips "Merkur" series . . circa '57'ish. The old printing had a little lateral ink creeping into the pores of the cheeeeep paper used, so I blew it on up to the point of best attainable resolution and then combined its 3 parts into one LARGE unitized format. |
PHILIPS BD-473 A . . . SCHEMATIC: ![]() |
: : : ![]() : : : : : : : :Sir Micro 9 . . . . . . : : : :( Hm m m m m Micro9 ? . . . Micro9 ? . . . I don't think that I'm even going to ask. . . Now Standards Micronic Ruby . . . I can handle.) : : : :For your troubleshooting assistance, herewith submitted, one each, LARGE unitized schematic of the Philips "Merkur" series . . circa '57'ish. : :The old printing had a little lateral ink creeping into the pores of the cheeeeep paper used, so I blew it on up to the point of best attainable resolution and then combined its 3 parts into one LARGE unitized format. : : :Just use "Winders" Photo / Image Viewer mode to scale / shrink down its overall viewing size, if perusing w a a a a y cross page to cross page in circuit flow observations. : : : : : : :73's de Edd : : : ![]() : |
: : : :PHILIPS BD-473 A . . . SCHEMATIC: : : : ![]() : : : : : |
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::Sir Micro 9 . . . . . .
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::( Hm m m m m Micro9 ? . . . Micro9 ? . . . I don't think that I'm even going to ask. . . Now Standards Micronic Ruby . . . I can handle.)
::
::
::
::For your troubleshooting assistance, herewith submitted, one each, LARGE unitized schematic of the Philips "Merkur" series . . circa '57'ish.
::
::The old printing had a little lateral ink creeping into the pores of the cheeeeep paper used, so I blew it on up to the point of best attainable resolution and then combined its 3 parts into one LARGE unitized format.
::
::
::Just use "Winders" Photo / Image Viewer mode to scale / shrink down its overall viewing size, if perusing w a a a a y cross page to cross page in circuit flow observations.
::
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::73's de Edd
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::PHILIPS BD-473 A . . . SCHEMATIC:
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::Looking for a Schematic for a Philips BD743A...Anyone know where I can get one...EDD can you help...Thanks..
::
::
:
:Thanks for the quick reply!!!!The extra large Sche is what I needed for these OLE eyes.....Have a ?..Where does the voltage from Pin 7 of EL84(plate) come from??
:I have good voltage on pin 9 but nothing on 7????
:
Voltage on pin #7 comes from the audio output transformer. The winding may be open.
Edd does a great job. He comes up with schematics and details for just about everything.
Norm
:Thanks for the quick reply!!!!The extra large Sche is what I needed for these OLE eyes.....Have a ?..Where does the voltage from Pin 7 of EL84(plate) come from??
:I have good voltage on pin 9 but nothing on 7????
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:::Sir Micro 9 . . . . . .
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:::( Hm m m m m Micro9 ? . . . Micro9 ? . . . I don't think that I'm even going to ask. . . Now Standards Micronic Ruby . . . I can handle.)
:::
:::
:::
:::For your troubleshooting assistance, herewith submitted, one each, LARGE unitized schematic of the Philips "Merkur" series . . circa '57'ish.
:::
:::The old printing had a little lateral ink creeping into the pores of the cheeeeep paper used, so I blew it on up to the point of best attainable resolution and then combined its 3 parts into one LARGE unitized format.
:::
:::
:::Just use "Winders" Photo / Image Viewer mode to scale / shrink down its overall viewing size, if perusing w a a a a y cross page to cross page in circuit flow observations.
:::
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:::73's de Edd
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:::PHILIPS BD-473 A . . . SCHEMATIC:
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:::Looking for a Schematic for a Philips BD743A...Anyone know where I can get one...EDD can you help...Thanks..
:::
:::
::
::Thanks for the quick reply!!!!The extra large Sche is what I needed for these OLE eyes.....Have a ?..Where does the voltage from Pin 7 of EL84(plate) come from??
::I have good voltage on pin 9 but nothing on 7????
::
:
:Hi
:
: Voltage on pin #7 comes from the audio output transformer. The winding may be open.
:
: Edd does a great job. He comes up with schematics and details for just about everything.
:
:Norm
:
::Thanks for the quick reply!!!!The extra large Sche is what I needed for these OLE eyes.....Have a ?..Where does the voltage from Pin 7 of EL84(plate) come from??
::I have good voltage on pin 9 but nothing on 7????
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::::Sir Micro 9 . . . . . .
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::::( Hm m m m m Micro9 ? . . . Micro9 ? . . . I don't think that I'm even going to ask. . . Now Standards Micronic Ruby . . . I can handle.)
::::
::::
::::
::::For your troubleshooting assistance, herewith submitted, one each, LARGE unitized schematic of the Philips "Merkur" series . . circa '57'ish.
::::
::::The old printing had a little lateral ink creeping into the pores of the cheeeeep paper used, so I blew it on up to the point of best attainable resolution and then combined its 3 parts into one LARGE unitized format.
::::
::::
::::Just use "Winders" Photo / Image Viewer mode to scale / shrink down its overall viewing size, if perusing w a a a a y cross page to cross page in circuit flow observations.
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::73's de Edd
::::
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::::PHILIPS BD-473 A . . . SCHEMATIC:
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::::
::::
::::
::::
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::::
::::Looking for a Schematic for a Philips BD743A...Anyone know where I can get one...EDD can you help...Thanks..
::::
::::
:::
:::Thanks for the quick reply!!!!The extra large Sche is what I needed for these OLE eyes.....Have a ?..Where does the voltage from Pin 7 of EL84(plate) come from??
:::I have good voltage on pin 9 but nothing on 7????
:::
::
:
You don't need a special output transformer for a German radio. Your radio uses a single EL84/6BQ5 which matches 4500 ohm impedance. AES, www.tubesandmore.com and Radio Daze, www.radiodaze.com both sell universal audio output transformers. However transformers won't have the primary tap shown in the schematic. This tap is used for hum bucking and can be bypassed. Similar circuit is used in some US made radios.
Norm
:Thanks Norm...
:That's what I was afraid of...
:Anyone have a junker chassis with a output tranny???
:Does anyone know of a source for output trannies for these German sets...Thanks for the Help!!!!
:
:
:
::Hi
::
:: Voltage on pin #7 comes from the audio output transformer. The winding may be open.
::
:: Edd does a great job. He comes up with schematics and details for just about everything.
::
::Norm
::
:::Thanks for the quick reply!!!!The extra large Sche is what I needed for these OLE eyes.....Have a ?..Where does the voltage from Pin 7 of EL84(plate) come from??
:::I have good voltage on pin 9 but nothing on 7????
:::
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:::::Sir Micro 9 . . . . . .
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::( Hm m m m m Micro9 ? . . . Micro9 ? . . . I don't think that I'm even going to ask. . . Now Standards Micronic Ruby . . . I can handle.)
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::For your troubleshooting assistance, herewith submitted, one each, LARGE unitized schematic of the Philips "Merkur" series . . circa '57'ish.
:::::
:::::The old printing had a little lateral ink creeping into the pores of the cheeeeep paper used, so I blew it on up to the point of best attainable resolution and then combined its 3 parts into one LARGE unitized format.
:::::
:::::
:::::Just use "Winders" Photo / Image Viewer mode to scale / shrink down its overall viewing size, if perusing w a a a a y cross page to cross page in circuit flow observations.
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::73's de Edd
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::PHILIPS BD-473 A . . . SCHEMATIC:
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:::::
:::::Looking for a Schematic for a Philips BD743A...Anyone know where I can get one...EDD can you help...Thanks..
:::::
:::::
::::
::::Thanks for the quick reply!!!!The extra large Sche is what I needed for these OLE eyes.....Have a ?..Where does the voltage from Pin 7 of EL84(plate) come from??
::::I have good voltage on pin 9 but nothing on 7????
::::
:::
::
:
With your info given on the open continuity to the plate winding, it leaves us with yet another possibility for further examination of the present, special tapped , transformer. Let's look into the possibility of the doing of a minor surgical examination of that transformer for checking out the chance of an internal poor /broken connection being made to either of the wire leads which I have marked up with the ( RED ) dots and its beefier main terminal wire. For simplicity / clarity of the drawing the overlaying secondary "voice coil secondary winding and its two heavier interconnect wires are being omitted. You have already confirmed that the winding from the main B+ to the sub B+ is intact. So lets mechanically pull the transformer, for better access and manipulation, and set up under a BRIGHT light and use a magnifier for visual assistance. Use a #11 Exacto knife blade and start VERY carefully removing the layering of insulating to eventually expose what I have shown in the drawing above. I have just pre-guessed at the common color coding of the assigned transformer wiring color coding and have used that which is usually the norm. I certainly hope that the failure mode is a time related contracting stress of the exposed wire interconnects. . Time to stand by for feed back or any procedural queries . . . Note: |
:http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103254#
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:Sir Joe. . . . . .
:
:
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:
:
:
:
:
:With your info given on the open continuity to the plate winding, it leaves us with yet another possibility for further examination of the present, special tapped , transformer.
:
:
:
:Let's look into the possibility of the doing of a minor surgical examination of that transformer for checking out the chance of an internal poor /broken connection being made to either of the wire leads which I have marked up with the ( RED ) dots and its beefier main terminal wire.
:
:
:
:For simplicity / clarity of the drawing the overlaying secondary "voice coil secondary winding and its two heavier interconnect wires are being omitted.
:
:You have already confirmed that the winding from the main B+ to the sub B+ is intact.
:
:
:
:So lets mechanically pull the transformer, for better access and manipulation, and set up under a BRIGHT light and use a magnifier for visual assistance.
:
:
:
:Use a #11 Exacto knife blade and start VERY carefully removing the layering of insulating to eventually expose what I have shown in the drawing above.
:
:
:
:I have just pre-guessed at the common color coding of the assigned transformer wiring color coding and have used that which is usually the norm.
:
:
:If you were to then take an ohmmeter there should be decades of ohms resistance between the "Orange" wire and the "Red" wire.
:
:
:What I do then is leave my "Orange" wire connected to the ohmmeter and then take note of the two fine wires that are being routed up beside the bobbin, then to be soldered to the HEAVY RED wire. One should then be able to mechanically examine to see if the wire solder connections are being made OR if time and thermal contraction has caused a wire to shrink and break off from its connection point.
:
:
:For my own confirmation I will take a common single edge blade with its wrap around aluminum band and make finger pressure connection between the two to the free ohmmeter lead and make an exploratory test to the "Red" wire for an initial continuity check.
:I then move to the side where the fine bare wires are and then make an angled lateral micro scraping of the enameled wire to confirm a connection and then test for continuity to the other enameled lead of that wire loop.
:
:
:That would then confirm that the tap wire on into the winding of the transformer is good and then you hopefully might have found the open up at the end of that winding coming out and connecting on to the "Blue" wire.
:
:
:
:I certainly hope that the failure mode is a time related contracting stress of the exposed wire interconnects.
:
:
:If one finds that, you only have the existing lead length of that fine wire, so my repair procedure is to get a fine single copper strand of AC line cord wire, pre-tin all of it, and then solder one end to the main heavy wire and cut a short remaining length.
:That will then reach over to the end of the broken transformers fine wire and then one fashions a small "needle eye" loop in the end of the copper splice wire.
:
:
:Then the broken wire is carefully scraped to the point of then applying rosin fluxing and then getting finally getting a bit of tinning being accepted by it.
:
:
:Lastly, the tinned wire tip is placed in the "eye of the needle" and a drop of solder then makes the continuity repair.
:
: .
:
:Time to stand by for feed back or any procedural queries . . .
:
:
:
:Note:
:
:
:Someone has given the referenced Radius Shack-a -men-ta- tor Transformium . . . just above . . but alas, it is of a pocket radio transistor impedance orientatation, as well as having but a like flea power capability.
:
:
:
:73's de Edd
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::http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103254#
::
:
As per the speakers mentoned, I don't particularly see it (them ?) shown. I see two specified speakers and one of which, that seems to suggest as being connected to the end "C" terminals. If it . . . the tweeter . . . then only reproduces the lisps and sss's of speech or the crisp very highest notes of music, the unit is then doing all that is expected to do. |
FONT SIZE=4 FACE="Comic Sans MS"COLOR=00C000>
:Thanks again to MR EDD and Norm.....
:After Norm confired that the plate voltage came fron the Output tranny I took it apart(UGG)what a chore it sure is tight in there and sure enough it was open at the fine wire to the connector....Got it back together and got sound out of the main speaker...but nothing out of the ES speakers.....What voltage goes across them..I have 215VDC.....I think I have to rebuild them...Any hints???
:FONT SIZE=4 FACE="Comic Sans MS"COLOR=000000>
:
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::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::Sir Joe. . . . . .
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::With your info given on the open continuity to the plate winding, it leaves us with yet another possibility for further examination of the present, special tapped , transformer.
::
::
::
::Let's look into the possibility of the doing of a minor surgical examination of that transformer for checking out the chance of an internal poor /broken connection being made to either of the wire leads which I have marked up with the ( RED ) dots and its beefier main terminal wire.
::
::
::
::For simplicity / clarity of the drawing the overlaying secondary "voice coil secondary winding and its two heavier interconnect wires are being omitted.
::
::You have already confirmed that the winding from the main B+ to the sub B+ is intact.
::
::
::
::So lets mechanically pull the transformer, for better access and manipulation, and set up under a BRIGHT light and use a magnifier for visual assistance.
::
::
::
::Use a #11 Exacto knife blade and start VERY carefully removing the layering of insulating to eventually expose what I have shown in the drawing above.
::
::
::
::I have just pre-guessed at the common color coding of the assigned transformer wiring color coding and have used that which is usually the norm.
::
::
::If you were to then take an ohmmeter there should be decades of ohms resistance between the "Orange" wire and the "Red" wire.
::
::
::What I do then is leave my "Orange" wire connected to the ohmmeter and then take note of the two fine wires that are being routed up beside the bobbin, then to be soldered to the HEAVY RED wire. One should then be able to mechanically examine to see if the wire solder connections are being made OR if time and thermal contraction has caused a wire to shrink and break off from its connection point.
::
::
::For my own confirmation I will take a common single edge blade with its wrap around aluminum band and make finger pressure connection between the two to the free ohmmeter lead and make an exploratory test to the "Red" wire for an initial continuity check.
::I then move to the side where the fine bare wires are and then make an angled lateral micro scraping of the enameled wire to confirm a connection and then test for continuity to the other enameled lead of that wire loop.
::
::
::That would then confirm that the tap wire on into the winding of the transformer is good and then you hopefully might have found the open up at the end of that winding coming out and connecting on to the "Blue" wire.
::
::
::
::I certainly hope that the failure mode is a time related contracting stress of the exposed wire interconnects.
::
::
::If one finds that, you only have the existing lead length of that fine wire, so my repair procedure is to get a fine single copper strand of AC line cord wire, pre-tin all of it, and then solder one end to the main heavy wire and cut a short remaining length.
::That will then reach over to the end of the broken transformers fine wire and then one fashions a small "needle eye" loop in the end of the copper splice wire.
::
::
::Then the broken wire is carefully scraped to the point of then applying rosin fluxing and then getting finally getting a bit of tinning being accepted by it.
::
::
::Lastly, the tinned wire tip is placed in the "eye of the needle" and a drop of solder then makes the continuity repair.
::
:: .
::
::Time to stand by for feed back or any procedural queries . . .
::
::
::
::Note:
::
::
::Someone has given the referenced Radius Shack-a -men-ta- tor Transformium . . . just above . . but alas, it is of a pocket radio transistor impedance orientatation, as well as having but a like flea power capability.
::
::
::
::73's de Edd
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
:::http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103254#
:::
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:Sir Joe . . . . . .
:
:
:Good deal on the recovery of the output transformers lifespan. I would be scared to say the number of transformers that I have found that has a failure analysis in the nature of the varnish used in the soaking of the windings is just fine in the initial years. The covering is pliant and conforming to the wire . . . . specifically the fine gauge wires. After decades of years the varnish hardens, tightens more closely around the wires, buts starts a progressive minor shirinkage, then in some cases the pull snaps the wire in a weaker / poor varnish coverage area.
:
:
:On cabinetry, one sees a similar effect where MULTIPLE overall fissures progressively develop in the finish coverage, after multiple decades.
:
:
:
:As per the speakers mentoned, I don't particularly see it (them ?) shown. I see two specified speakers and one of which, that seems to suggest as being connected to the end "C" terminals.
:
:
:BUT, with 200 + volts before the mentioned "tweeter, would suggest it as being an electrostatic unit coupled into via an isolative capacitor. . . . or a leaky tweeter coupling capacitor ?
:
:
:If you are not familiar with their operation, they definitely do NOT have the acoustical output of a coned tweeter.
:
:
:Best to sub in a 10 ohm or so 5 watt dummy load resistor for each coned woofer/ speaker as one lead from each is disconnected and and then you will be able to hear ONLY the electrostatic tweeter.
:
:
:
:If it . . . the tweeter . . . then only reproduces the lisps and sss's of speech or the crisp very highest notes of music, the unit is then doing all that is expected to do.
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:73's de Edd
:
:
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:FONT SIZE=4 FACE="Comic Sans MS"COLOR=00C000>
:
:
::Thanks again to MR EDD and Norm.....
::After Norm confired that the plate voltage came fron the Output tranny I took it apart(UGG)what a chore it sure is tight in there and sure enough it was open at the fine wire to the connector....Got it back together and got sound out of the main speaker...but nothing out of the ES speakers.....What voltage goes across them..I have 215VDC.....I think I have to rebuild them...Any hints???
::FONT SIZE=4 FACE="Comic Sans MS"COLOR=000000>
::
:::
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:::
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:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::Sir Joe. . . . . .
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::With your info given on the open continuity to the plate winding, it leaves us with yet another possibility for further examination of the present, special tapped , transformer.
:::
:::
:::
:::Let's look into the possibility of the doing of a minor surgical examination of that transformer for checking out the chance of an internal poor /broken connection being made to either of the wire leads which I have marked up with the ( RED ) dots and its beefier main terminal wire.
:::
:::
:::
:::For simplicity / clarity of the drawing the overlaying secondary "voice coil secondary winding and its two heavier interconnect wires are being omitted.
:::
:::You have already confirmed that the winding from the main B+ to the sub B+ is intact.
:::
:::
:::
:::So lets mechanically pull the transformer, for better access and manipulation, and set up under a BRIGHT light and use a magnifier for visual assistance.
:::
:::
:::
:::Use a #11 Exacto knife blade and start VERY carefully removing the layering of insulating to eventually expose what I have shown in the drawing above.
:::
:::
:::
:::I have just pre-guessed at the common color coding of the assigned transformer wiring color coding and have used that which is usually the norm.
:::
:::
:::If you were to then take an ohmmeter there should be decades of ohms resistance between the "Orange" wire and the "Red" wire.
:::
:::
:::What I do then is leave my "Orange" wire connected to the ohmmeter and then take note of the two fine wires that are being routed up beside the bobbin, then to be soldered to the HEAVY RED wire. One should then be able to mechanically examine to see if the wire solder connections are being made OR if time and thermal contraction has caused a wire to shrink and break off from its connection point.
:::
:::
:::For my own confirmation I will take a common single edge blade with its wrap around aluminum band and make finger pressure connection between the two to the free ohmmeter lead and make an exploratory test to the "Red" wire for an initial continuity check.
:::I then move to the side where the fine bare wires are and then make an angled lateral micro scraping of the enameled wire to confirm a connection and then test for continuity to the other enameled lead of that wire loop.
:::
:::
:::That would then confirm that the tap wire on into the winding of the transformer is good and then you hopefully might have found the open up at the end of that winding coming out and connecting on to the "Blue" wire.
:::
:::
:::
:::I certainly hope that the failure mode is a time related contracting stress of the exposed wire interconnects.
:::
:::
:::If one finds that, you only have the existing lead length of that fine wire, so my repair procedure is to get a fine single copper strand of AC line cord wire, pre-tin all of it, and then solder one end to the main heavy wire and cut a short remaining length.
:::That will then reach over to the end of the broken transformers fine wire and then one fashions a small "needle eye" loop in the end of the copper splice wire.
:::
:::
:::Then the broken wire is carefully scraped to the point of then applying rosin fluxing and then getting finally getting a bit of tinning being accepted by it.
:::
:::
:::Lastly, the tinned wire tip is placed in the "eye of the needle" and a drop of solder then makes the continuity repair.
:::
::: .
:::
:::Time to stand by for feed back or any procedural queries . . .
:::
:::
:::
:::Note:
:::
:::
:::Someone has given the referenced Radius Shack-a -men-ta- tor Transformium . . . just above . . but alas, it is of a pocket radio transistor impedance orientatation, as well as having but a like flea power capability.
:::
:::
:::
:::73's de Edd
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
::::http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103254#
::::
:::
::
:
|
:EDD...
: These are ES(electrostatic)speakers...The material used for the press fit came out as brown dust...What material would be a good sub for this material???Foam rubber,wool???
:
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::Sir Joe . . . . . .
::
::
::Good deal on the recovery of the output transformers lifespan. I would be scared to say the number of transformers that I have found that has a failure analysis in the nature of the varnish used in the soaking of the windings is just fine in the initial years. The covering is pliant and conforming to the wire . . . . specifically the fine gauge wires. After decades of years the varnish hardens, tightens more closely around the wires, buts starts a progressive minor shirinkage, then in some cases the pull snaps the wire in a weaker / poor varnish coverage area.
::
::
::On cabinetry, one sees a similar effect where MULTIPLE overall fissures progressively develop in the finish coverage, after multiple decades.
::
::
::
::As per the speakers mentoned, I don't particularly see it (them ?) shown. I see two specified speakers and one of which, that seems to suggest as being connected to the end "C" terminals.
::
::
::BUT, with 200 + volts before the mentioned "tweeter, would suggest it as being an electrostatic unit coupled into via an isolative capacitor. . . . or a leaky tweeter coupling capacitor ?
::
::
::If you are not familiar with their operation, they definitely do NOT have the acoustical output of a coned tweeter.
::
::
::Best to sub in a 10 ohm or so 5 watt dummy load resistor for each coned woofer/ speaker as one lead from each is disconnected and and then you will be able to hear ONLY the electrostatic tweeter.
::
::
::
::If it . . . the tweeter . . . then only reproduces the lisps and sss's of speech or the crisp very highest notes of music, the unit is then doing all that is expected to do.
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::73's de Edd
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::FONT SIZE=4 FACE="Comic Sans MS"COLOR=00C000>
::
::
:::Thanks again to MR EDD and Norm.....
:::After Norm confired that the plate voltage came fron the Output tranny I took it apart(UGG)what a chore it sure is tight in there and sure enough it was open at the fine wire to the connector....Got it back together and got sound out of the main speaker...but nothing out of the ES speakers.....What voltage goes across them..I have 215VDC.....I think I have to rebuild them...Any hints???
:::FONT SIZE=4 FACE="Comic Sans MS"COLOR=000000>
:::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::Sir Joe. . . . . .
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::With your info given on the open continuity to the plate winding, it leaves us with yet another possibility for further examination of the present, special tapped , transformer.
::::
::::
::::
::::Let's look into the possibility of the doing of a minor surgical examination of that transformer for checking out the chance of an internal poor /broken connection being made to either of the wire leads which I have marked up with the ( RED ) dots and its beefier main terminal wire.
::::
::::
::::
::::For simplicity / clarity of the drawing the overlaying secondary "voice coil secondary winding and its two heavier interconnect wires are being omitted.
::::
::::You have already confirmed that the winding from the main B+ to the sub B+ is intact.
::::
::::
::::
::::So lets mechanically pull the transformer, for better access and manipulation, and set up under a BRIGHT light and use a magnifier for visual assistance.
::::
::::
::::
::::Use a #11 Exacto knife blade and start VERY carefully removing the layering of insulating to eventually expose what I have shown in the drawing above.
::::
::::
::::
::::I have just pre-guessed at the common color coding of the assigned transformer wiring color coding and have used that which is usually the norm.
::::
::::
::::If you were to then take an ohmmeter there should be decades of ohms resistance between the "Orange" wire and the "Red" wire.
::::
::::
::::What I do then is leave my "Orange" wire connected to the ohmmeter and then take note of the two fine wires that are being routed up beside the bobbin, then to be soldered to the HEAVY RED wire. One should then be able to mechanically examine to see if the wire solder connections are being made OR if time and thermal contraction has caused a wire to shrink and break off from its connection point.
::::
::::
::::For my own confirmation I will take a common single edge blade with its wrap around aluminum band and make finger pressure connection between the two to the free ohmmeter lead and make an exploratory test to the "Red" wire for an initial continuity check.
::::I then move to the side where the fine bare wires are and then make an angled lateral micro scraping of the enameled wire to confirm a connection and then test for continuity to the other enameled lead of that wire loop.
::::
::::
::::That would then confirm that the tap wire on into the winding of the transformer is good and then you hopefully might have found the open up at the end of that winding coming out and connecting on to the "Blue" wire.
::::
::::
::::
::::I certainly hope that the failure mode is a time related contracting stress of the exposed wire interconnects.
::::
::::
::::If one finds that, you only have the existing lead length of that fine wire, so my repair procedure is to get a fine single copper strand of AC line cord wire, pre-tin all of it, and then solder one end to the main heavy wire and cut a short remaining length.
::::That will then reach over to the end of the broken transformers fine wire and then one fashions a small "needle eye" loop in the end of the copper splice wire.
::::
::::
::::Then the broken wire is carefully scraped to the point of then applying rosin fluxing and then getting finally getting a bit of tinning being accepted by it.
::::
::::
::::Lastly, the tinned wire tip is placed in the "eye of the needle" and a drop of solder then makes the continuity repair.
::::
:::: .
::::
::::Time to stand by for feed back or any procedural queries . . .
::::
::::
::::
::::Note:
::::
::::
::::Someone has given the referenced Radius Shack-a -men-ta- tor Transformium . . . just above . . but alas, it is of a pocket radio transistor impedance orientatation, as well as having but a like flea power capability.
::::
::::
::::
::::73's de Edd
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
:::::http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103254#
:::::
::::
:::
::
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:Sir Joe . . . . . .
:
:
:This topic was just mentioned recently, so just refer to this quite thorough write up being hosted at this site.
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:73's de Edd
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
::EDD...
:: These are ES(electrostatic)speakers...The material used for the press fit came out as brown dust...What material would be a good sub for this material???Foam rubber,wool???
::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::Sir Joe . . . . . .
:::
:::
:::Good deal on the recovery of the output transformers lifespan. I would be scared to say the number of transformers that I have found that has a failure analysis in the nature of the varnish used in the soaking of the windings is just fine in the initial years. The covering is pliant and conforming to the wire . . . . specifically the fine gauge wires. After decades of years the varnish hardens, tightens more closely around the wires, buts starts a progressive minor shirinkage, then in some cases the pull snaps the wire in a weaker / poor varnish coverage area.
:::
:::
:::On cabinetry, one sees a similar effect where MULTIPLE overall fissures progressively develop in the finish coverage, after multiple decades.
:::
:::
:::
:::As per the speakers mentoned, I don't particularly see it (them ?) shown. I see two specified speakers and one of which, that seems to suggest as being connected to the end "C" terminals.
:::
:::
:::BUT, with 200 + volts before the mentioned "tweeter, would suggest it as being an electrostatic unit coupled into via an isolative capacitor. . . . or a leaky tweeter coupling capacitor ?
:::
:::
:::If you are not familiar with their operation, they definitely do NOT have the acoustical output of a coned tweeter.
:::
:::
:::Best to sub in a 10 ohm or so 5 watt dummy load resistor for each coned woofer/ speaker as one lead from each is disconnected and and then you will be able to hear ONLY the electrostatic tweeter.
:::
:::
:::
:::If it . . . the tweeter . . . then only reproduces the lisps and sss's of speech or the crisp very highest notes of music, the unit is then doing all that is expected to do.
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::73's de Edd
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::FONT SIZE=4 FACE="Comic Sans MS"COLOR=00C000>
:::
:::
::::Thanks again to MR EDD and Norm.....
::::After Norm confired that the plate voltage came fron the Output tranny I took it apart(UGG)what a chore it sure is tight in there and sure enough it was open at the fine wire to the connector....Got it back together and got sound out of the main speaker...but nothing out of the ES speakers.....What voltage goes across them..I have 215VDC.....I think I have to rebuild them...Any hints???
::::FONT SIZE=4 FACE="Comic Sans MS"COLOR=000000>
::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::Sir Joe. . . . . .
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::With your info given on the open continuity to the plate winding, it leaves us with yet another possibility for further examination of the present, special tapped , transformer.
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::Let's look into the possibility of the doing of a minor surgical examination of that transformer for checking out the chance of an internal poor /broken connection being made to either of the wire leads which I have marked up with the ( RED ) dots and its beefier main terminal wire.
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::For simplicity / clarity of the drawing the overlaying secondary "voice coil secondary winding and its two heavier interconnect wires are being omitted.
:::::
:::::You have already confirmed that the winding from the main B+ to the sub B+ is intact.
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::So lets mechanically pull the transformer, for better access and manipulation, and set up under a BRIGHT light and use a magnifier for visual assistance.
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::Use a #11 Exacto knife blade and start VERY carefully removing the layering of insulating to eventually expose what I have shown in the drawing above.
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::I have just pre-guessed at the common color coding of the assigned transformer wiring color coding and have used that which is usually the norm.
:::::
:::::
:::::If you were to then take an ohmmeter there should be decades of ohms resistance between the "Orange" wire and the "Red" wire.
:::::
:::::
:::::What I do then is leave my "Orange" wire connected to the ohmmeter and then take note of the two fine wires that are being routed up beside the bobbin, then to be soldered to the HEAVY RED wire. One should then be able to mechanically examine to see if the wire solder connections are being made OR if time and thermal contraction has caused a wire to shrink and break off from its connection point.
:::::
:::::
:::::For my own confirmation I will take a common single edge blade with its wrap around aluminum band and make finger pressure connection between the two to the free ohmmeter lead and make an exploratory test to the "Red" wire for an initial continuity check.
:::::I then move to the side where the fine bare wires are and then make an angled lateral micro scraping of the enameled wire to confirm a connection and then test for continuity to the other enameled lead of that wire loop.
:::::
:::::
:::::That would then confirm that the tap wire on into the winding of the transformer is good and then you hopefully might have found the open up at the end of that winding coming out and connecting on to the "Blue" wire.
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::I certainly hope that the failure mode is a time related contracting stress of the exposed wire interconnects.
:::::
:::::
:::::If one finds that, you only have the existing lead length of that fine wire, so my repair procedure is to get a fine single copper strand of AC line cord wire, pre-tin all of it, and then solder one end to the main heavy wire and cut a short remaining length.
:::::That will then reach over to the end of the broken transformers fine wire and then one fashions a small "needle eye" loop in the end of the copper splice wire.
:::::
:::::
:::::Then the broken wire is carefully scraped to the point of then applying rosin fluxing and then getting finally getting a bit of tinning being accepted by it.
:::::
:::::
:::::Lastly, the tinned wire tip is placed in the "eye of the needle" and a drop of solder then makes the continuity repair.
:::::
::::: .
:::::
:::::Time to stand by for feed back or any procedural queries . . .
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::Note:
:::::
:::::
:::::Someone has given the referenced Radius Shack-a -men-ta- tor Transformium . . . just above . . but alas, it is of a pocket radio transistor impedance orientatation, as well as having but a like flea power capability.
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::73's de Edd
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
::::::http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103254#
::::::
:::::
::::
:::
::
:
"CONGRANULATIONS" . . . on getting the 'lectrostatic Tweeters tweeting again, as I said, they don't put out a whole lot of power . . AT ALL . . mainly just the crispness of music's highest frequencies and the lisping sounds of audio. First point of interest is the final AM IF transformer [YELLOW] markup and its top lead [Yellow / Blk trace] that flows up and over to the AM detector diode plate, where all + going IF RF nodes are conducted off thru the diode. Then meter down at the 1st grid of the EM 80 and see if it is also up in the negative 5 V or greater at that point also, that high of a level should start the noticable change of the eye display. |
TECH REFERENCING: . . .Thumbnail of PHILIPS BD473A Schematic: |
:The ES speakers have been rebuilt and sound pretty good for tweeters..now for the next issue....eye tube not working....there is a -.35 volts on drive pin 1!!!Also pin 9 of the EF89 has .5 volts on it...where is that voltage coming from???Schematic shows it should be 65 volts...pin 2 of the Eabc80 show the same voltage.....the 5 uf cap has been replaced with the same results...
:
:
:
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::Sir Joe . . . . . .
::
::
::This topic was just mentioned recently, so just refer to this quite thorough write up being hosted at this site.
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::73's de Edd
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
:::EDD...
::: These are ES(electrostatic)speakers...The material used for the press fit came out as brown dust...What material would be a good sub for this material???Foam rubber,wool???
:::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::Sir Joe . . . . . .
::::
::::
::::Good deal on the recovery of the output transformers lifespan. I would be scared to say the number of transformers that I have found that has a failure analysis in the nature of the varnish used in the soaking of the windings is just fine in the initial years. The covering is pliant and conforming to the wire . . . . specifically the fine gauge wires. After decades of years the varnish hardens, tightens more closely around the wires, buts starts a progressive minor shirinkage, then in some cases the pull snaps the wire in a weaker / poor varnish coverage area.
::::
::::
::::On cabinetry, one sees a similar effect where MULTIPLE overall fissures progressively develop in the finish coverage, after multiple decades.
::::
::::
::::
::::As per the speakers mentoned, I don't particularly see it (them ?) shown. I see two specified speakers and one of which, that seems to suggest as being connected to the end "C" terminals.
::::
::::
::::BUT, with 200 + volts before the mentioned "tweeter, would suggest it as being an electrostatic unit coupled into via an isolative capacitor. . . . or a leaky tweeter coupling capacitor ?
::::
::::
::::If you are not familiar with their operation, they definitely do NOT have the acoustical output of a coned tweeter.
::::
::::
::::Best to sub in a 10 ohm or so 5 watt dummy load resistor for each coned woofer/ speaker as one lead from each is disconnected and and then you will be able to hear ONLY the electrostatic tweeter.
::::
::::
::::
::::If it . . . the tweeter . . . then only reproduces the lisps and sss's of speech or the crisp very highest notes of music, the unit is then doing all that is expected to do.
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::73's de Edd
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::FONT SIZE=4 FACE="Comic Sans MS"COLOR=00C000>
::::
::::
:::::Thanks again to MR EDD and Norm.....
:::::After Norm confired that the plate voltage came fron the Output tranny I took it apart(UGG)what a chore it sure is tight in there and sure enough it was open at the fine wire to the connector....Got it back together and got sound out of the main speaker...but nothing out of the ES speakers.....What voltage goes across them..I have 215VDC.....I think I have to rebuild them...Any hints???
:::::FONT SIZE=4 FACE="Comic Sans MS"COLOR=000000>
:::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::Sir Joe. . . . . .
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::With your info given on the open continuity to the plate winding, it leaves us with yet another possibility for further examination of the present, special tapped , transformer.
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::Let's look into the possibility of the doing of a minor surgical examination of that transformer for checking out the chance of an internal poor /broken connection being made to either of the wire leads which I have marked up with the ( RED ) dots and its beefier main terminal wire.
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::For simplicity / clarity of the drawing the overlaying secondary "voice coil secondary winding and its two heavier interconnect wires are being omitted.
::::::
::::::You have already confirmed that the winding from the main B+ to the sub B+ is intact.
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::So lets mechanically pull the transformer, for better access and manipulation, and set up under a BRIGHT light and use a magnifier for visual assistance.
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::Use a #11 Exacto knife blade and start VERY carefully removing the layering of insulating to eventually expose what I have shown in the drawing above.
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::I have just pre-guessed at the common color coding of the assigned transformer wiring color coding and have used that which is usually the norm.
::::::
::::::
::::::If you were to then take an ohmmeter there should be decades of ohms resistance between the "Orange" wire and the "Red" wire.
::::::
::::::
::::::What I do then is leave my "Orange" wire connected to the ohmmeter and then take note of the two fine wires that are being routed up beside the bobbin, then to be soldered to the HEAVY RED wire. One should then be able to mechanically examine to see if the wire solder connections are being made OR if time and thermal contraction has caused a wire to shrink and break off from its connection point.
::::::
::::::
::::::For my own confirmation I will take a common single edge blade with its wrap around aluminum band and make finger pressure connection between the two to the free ohmmeter lead and make an exploratory test to the "Red" wire for an initial continuity check.
::::::I then move to the side where the fine bare wires are and then make an angled lateral micro scraping of the enameled wire to confirm a connection and then test for continuity to the other enameled lead of that wire loop.
::::::
::::::
::::::That would then confirm that the tap wire on into the winding of the transformer is good and then you hopefully might have found the open up at the end of that winding coming out and connecting on to the "Blue" wire.
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::I certainly hope that the failure mode is a time related contracting stress of the exposed wire interconnects.
::::::
::::::
::::::If one finds that, you only have the existing lead length of that fine wire, so my repair procedure is to get a fine single copper strand of AC line cord wire, pre-tin all of it, and then solder one end to the main heavy wire and cut a short remaining length.
::::::That will then reach over to the end of the broken transformers fine wire and then one fashions a small "needle eye" loop in the end of the copper splice wire.
::::::
::::::
::::::Then the broken wire is carefully scraped to the point of then applying rosin fluxing and then getting finally getting a bit of tinning being accepted by it.
::::::
::::::
::::::Lastly, the tinned wire tip is placed in the "eye of the needle" and a drop of solder then makes the continuity repair.
::::::
:::::: .
::::::
::::::Time to stand by for feed back or any procedural queries . . .
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::Note:
::::::
::::::
::::::Someone has given the referenced Radius Shack-a -men-ta- tor Transformium . . . just above . . but alas, it is of a pocket radio transistor impedance orientatation, as well as having but a like flea power capability.
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::73's de Edd
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
:::::::http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103254#
:::::::
::::::
:::::
::::
:::
::
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:Sir Micro9. . . . . .
:
:
:
:"CONGRANULATIONS" . . . on getting the 'lectrostatic Tweeters tweeting again, as I said, they don't put out a whole lot of power . . AT ALL . . mainly just the crispness of music's highest frequencies and the lisping sounds of audio.
:
:
:
:Now, in referrencing to your last queries:
:
:
:
:...eye tube not working....there is a -.35 volts on drive pin 1!!!
:
:
:
:Wel l l l . . . it's for sure, that's certainly not enough to get even the start of a segmental closure.
:
:
:
:Also pin 9 of the EF89 has .5 volts on it..
:
:
:
:Yep . . . thats a variable, and all in accordance to station tuning and signal strength . . .
:
:
:
:.where is that voltage coming from???
:
:
:
:it comes from the pin 2 of the EABC80 . . and I have now enhanced the clarity of the schematic on that involved routing .
:
:
:
:Schematic shows it should be 65 volts...pin 2 of the Eabc80 show the same voltage.....
:
:
:
:You must be misreading and associating it with the the 70V ? spec of the screen grid, located just BELOW it. The supressor grid of the EA89 gets directly connected to the Pin #2 diode of the EABC80.
:
:
:I thinks that I done wents and nevah-evah seens 65 V DC on a supressor-micator grid !
:
:
:
:the 5 uf cap has been replaced with the same results...
:
:
:
:A opened and / or low value C72 summing capacitor will result in very low level and distorted audio output from the FM detector stage.
:
:
:
:
:F.I.O. . . .
:
:
:
:
:The supplied manufacturers schematic used the berry- berry OOOOOOOOLLLDDDE tube element symbolization on the EABC80 tube of this set.
:
:
:I had to peek at a Grunting-dig to see the typical circuitry assignment of the separate diode clusters and their associative anodes and cathodes and assigned them to the EABC 80 now..
:
:
:I have marked on all of the tube pin numbers of the three involved tubes.
:
:
:As per the EABC80 . . .I feel sure that I have the pin 6 appropriately assigned as usually being the AM detector diodes plate.
:
:
:The assignment of the pin 3 cathode and the pin 1 plate are in the correct phase relationship for being the proper connections to the output windings of the FM detector transformer.
:
:
:Then, the pin 7 cathode and pin 2 plate connections then just fall in automatically by default.
:
:
:You said that you changed the 5 ufd electrolytic capacitor, if just swapping out units, no problem by mechanical comparison if it was the OEM original unit, otherwise, had it been changed out before ? check out its currently installed polarity against the schematic.
:
:
:
:
:TROUBLESHOOTING THE EYE TUBE PROBLEM:
:
:
:
:
:Lets start with the unit in AM mode and consult the new smaller thumbnail schematic provided of only the potentially involved circuitry.
:
:
:
:First point of interest is the final AM IF transformer [YELLOW] markup and its top lead [Yellow / Blk trace] that flows up and over to the AM detector diode plate, where all + going IF RF nodes are conducted off thru the diode.
:
:
:The bottom of the IF winding will be the origin of a negative DC voltage from the accumulated negative nodes of the IF RF and also the detected audio of the AM signal.
:
:
:The combined elements then encounter an R/C filter of R38 and C48 that strips off any residual IF RF along with the very -very highest of audio frequencies. Finally there is a dump into the R37 load resistor which enables the 2 above actions to build up from.
:
:
:Two circuit routes now evolve, on the [ YELLOW ] route to the right, is the passage of the audio info thru 2 switching actions and then into the treble tone control and thru it, to a DC isolative C76 capacitor.
:There is then but one more degree of resistive isolation thru R46 to finally have detected AM raw audio being present at the top of the volume control . . . to then be proportionatively tapped off by its rotor to feed on to the 1st audio amp stage of the EABC80 above.
:
:
:
:
:What we are now interested is the DC component of the detected AM signal which is branching off to the left of the detector load resistior and flowing down as the [ YELLOW / GREEN TRACE ] line which encounters two degrees of resistive isolation via R39 and R60 and a bit of filtering via C90 to slow down the tuning response speed a bit before going into the control grid of the EM 80 on its pin 1.
:
:
:Of secondary importance, for now, is the additional routing to the left of the AVC control voltage via the routing of the [ YELLOW / HEAVY GREEN TRACE ] mark-up.
:
:
:
:
:TO DO:
:
:
:
:DC METER your negative AVC voltage at the bottom of R39 and look for the strongest received station . . . .as it will be having the highest produced voltage on the strongest AM station received.
:
: Then meter down at the 1st grid of the EM 80 and see if it is also up in the negative 5 V or greater at that point also, that high of a level should start the noticable change of the eye display.
:
:
:Time to wait for feedback or any procedural queries . . .
:
:
:
:
:
:
:73's de Edd
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:TECH REFERENCING: . . .Thumbnail of PHILIPS BD473A Schematic:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
::The ES speakers have been rebuilt and sound pretty good for tweeters..now for the next issue....eye tube not working....there is a -.35 volts on drive pin 1!!!Also pin 9 of the EF89 has .5 volts on it...where is that voltage coming from???Schematic shows it should be 65 volts...pin 2 of the Eabc80 show the same voltage.....the 5 uf cap has been replaced with the same results...
::
::
::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::Sir Joe . . . . . .
:::
:::
:::This topic was just mentioned recently, so just refer to this quite thorough write up being hosted at this site.
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::73's de Edd
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
::::EDD...
:::: These are ES(electrostatic)speakers...The material used for the press fit came out as brown dust...What material would be a good sub for this material???Foam rubber,wool???
::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::Sir Joe . . . . . .
:::::
:::::
:::::Good deal on the recovery of the output transformers lifespan. I would be scared to say the number of transformers that I have found that has a failure analysis in the nature of the varnish used in the soaking of the windings is just fine in the initial years. The covering is pliant and conforming to the wire . . . . specifically the fine gauge wires. After decades of years the varnish hardens, tightens more closely around the wires, buts starts a progressive minor shirinkage, then in some cases the pull snaps the wire in a weaker / poor varnish coverage area.
:::::
:::::
:::::On cabinetry, one sees a similar effect where MULTIPLE overall fissures progressively develop in the finish coverage, after multiple decades.
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::As per the speakers mentoned, I don't particularly see it (them ?) shown. I see two specified speakers and one of which, that seems to suggest as being connected to the end "C" terminals.
:::::
:::::
:::::BUT, with 200 + volts before the mentioned "tweeter, would suggest it as being an electrostatic unit coupled into via an isolative capacitor. . . . or a leaky tweeter coupling capacitor ?
:::::
:::::
:::::If you are not familiar with their operation, they definitely do NOT have the acoustical output of a coned tweeter.
:::::
:::::
:::::Best to sub in a 10 ohm or so 5 watt dummy load resistor for each coned woofer/ speaker as one lead from each is disconnected and and then you will be able to hear ONLY the electrostatic tweeter.
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::If it . . . the tweeter . . . then only reproduces the lisps and sss's of speech or the crisp very highest notes of music, the unit is then doing all that is expected to do.
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::73's de Edd
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::FONT SIZE=4 FACE="Comic Sans MS"COLOR=00C000>
:::::
:::::
::::::Thanks again to MR EDD and Norm.....
::::::After Norm confired that the plate voltage came fron the Output tranny I took it apart(UGG)what a chore it sure is tight in there and sure enough it was open at the fine wire to the connector....Got it back together and got sound out of the main speaker...but nothing out of the ES speakers.....What voltage goes across them..I have 215VDC.....I think I have to rebuild them...Any hints???
::::::FONT SIZE=4 FACE="Comic Sans MS"COLOR=000000>
::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::Sir Joe. . . . . .
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::With your info given on the open continuity to the plate winding, it leaves us with yet another possibility for further examination of the present, special tapped , transformer.
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::Let's look into the possibility of the doing of a minor surgical examination of that transformer for checking out the chance of an internal poor /broken connection being made to either of the wire leads which I have marked up with the ( RED ) dots and its beefier main terminal wire.
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::For simplicity / clarity of the drawing the overlaying secondary "voice coil secondary winding and its two heavier interconnect wires are being omitted.
:::::::
:::::::You have already confirmed that the winding from the main B+ to the sub B+ is intact.
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::So lets mechanically pull the transformer, for better access and manipulation, and set up under a BRIGHT light and use a magnifier for visual assistance.
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::Use a #11 Exacto knife blade and start VERY carefully removing the layering of insulating to eventually expose what I have shown in the drawing above.
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::I have just pre-guessed at the common color coding of the assigned transformer wiring color coding and have used that which is usually the norm.
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::If you were to then take an ohmmeter there should be decades of ohms resistance between the "Orange" wire and the "Red" wire.
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::What I do then is leave my "Orange" wire connected to the ohmmeter and then take note of the two fine wires that are being routed up beside the bobbin, then to be soldered to the HEAVY RED wire. One should then be able to mechanically examine to see if the wire solder connections are being made OR if time and thermal contraction has caused a wire to shrink and break off from its connection point.
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::For my own confirmation I will take a common single edge blade with its wrap around aluminum band and make finger pressure connection between the two to the free ohmmeter lead and make an exploratory test to the "Red" wire for an initial continuity check.
:::::::I then move to the side where the fine bare wires are and then make an angled lateral micro scraping of the enameled wire to confirm a connection and then test for continuity to the other enameled lead of that wire loop.
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::That would then confirm that the tap wire on into the winding of the transformer is good and then you hopefully might have found the open up at the end of that winding coming out and connecting on to the "Blue" wire.
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::I certainly hope that the failure mode is a time related contracting stress of the exposed wire interconnects.
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::If one finds that, you only have the existing lead length of that fine wire, so my repair procedure is to get a fine single copper strand of AC line cord wire, pre-tin all of it, and then solder one end to the main heavy wire and cut a short remaining length.
:::::::That will then reach over to the end of the broken transformers fine wire and then one fashions a small "needle eye" loop in the end of the copper splice wire.
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::Then the broken wire is carefully scraped to the point of then applying rosin fluxing and then getting finally getting a bit of tinning being accepted by it.
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::Lastly, the tinned wire tip is placed in the "eye of the needle" and a drop of solder then makes the continuity repair.
:::::::
::::::: .
:::::::
:::::::Time to stand by for feed back or any procedural queries . . .
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::Note:
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::Someone has given the referenced Radius Shack-a -men-ta- tor Transformium . . . just above . . but alas, it is of a pocket radio transistor impedance orientatation, as well as having but a like flea power capability.
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::73's de Edd
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
::::::::http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103254#
::::::::
:::::::
::::::
:::::
::::
:::
::
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:Sir Joe . . . . . .
:
:
:This topic was just mentioned recently, so just refer to this quite thorough write up being hosted at this site.
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:73's de Edd
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
::EDD...
:: These are ES(electrostatic)speakers...The material used for the press fit came out as brown dust...What material would be a good sub for this material???Foam rubber,wool???
::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::Sir Joe . . . . . .
:::
:::
:::Good deal on the recovery of the output transformers lifespan. I would be scared to say the number of transformers that I have found that has a failure analysis in the nature of the varnish used in the soaking of the windings is just fine in the initial years. The covering is pliant and conforming to the wire . . . . specifically the fine gauge wires. After decades of years the varnish hardens, tightens more closely around the wires, buts starts a progressive minor shirinkage, then in some cases the pull snaps the wire in a weaker / poor varnish coverage area.
:::
:::
:::On cabinetry, one sees a similar effect where MULTIPLE overall fissures progressively develop in the finish coverage, after multiple decades.
:::
:::
:::
:::As per the speakers mentoned, I don't particularly see it (them ?) shown. I see two specified speakers and one of which, that seems to suggest as being connected to the end "C" terminals.
:::
:::
:::BUT, with 200 + volts before the mentioned "tweeter, would suggest it as being an electrostatic unit coupled into via an isolative capacitor. . . . or a leaky tweeter coupling capacitor ?
:::
:::
:::If you are not familiar with their operation, they definitely do NOT have the acoustical output of a coned tweeter.
:::
:::
:::Best to sub in a 10 ohm or so 5 watt dummy load resistor for each coned woofer/ speaker as one lead from each is disconnected and and then you will be able to hear ONLY the electrostatic tweeter.
:::
:::
:::
:::If it . . . the tweeter . . . then only reproduces the lisps and sss's of speech or the crisp very highest notes of music, the unit is then doing all that is expected to do.
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::73's de Edd
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::FONT SIZE=4 FACE="Comic Sans MS"COLOR=00C000>
:::
:::
::::Thanks again to MR EDD and Norm.....
::::After Norm confired that the plate voltage came fron the Output tranny I took it apart(UGG)what a chore it sure is tight in there and sure enough it was open at the fine wire to the connector....Got it back together and got sound out of the main speaker...but nothing out of the ES speakers.....What voltage goes across them..I have 215VDC.....I think I have to rebuild them...Any hints???
::::FONT SIZE=4 FACE="Comic Sans MS"COLOR=000000>
::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::Sir Joe. . . . . .
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::With your info given on the open continuity to the plate winding, it leaves us with yet another possibility for further examination of the present, special tapped , transformer.
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::Let's look into the possibility of the doing of a minor surgical examination of that transformer for checking out the chance of an internal poor /broken connection being made to either of the wire leads which I have marked up with the ( RED ) dots and its beefier main terminal wire.
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::For simplicity / clarity of the drawing the overlaying secondary "voice coil secondary winding and its two heavier interconnect wires are being omitted.
:::::
:::::You have already confirmed that the winding from the main B+ to the sub B+ is intact.
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::So lets mechanically pull the transformer, for better access and manipulation, and set up under a BRIGHT light and use a magnifier for visual assistance.
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::Use a #11 Exacto knife blade and start VERY carefully removing the layering of insulating to eventually expose what I have shown in the drawing above.
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::I have just pre-guessed at the common color coding of the assigned transformer wiring color coding and have used that which is usually the norm.
:::::
:::::
:::::If you were to then take an ohmmeter there should be decades of ohms resistance between the "Orange" wire and the "Red" wire.
:::::
:::::
:::::What I do then is leave my "Orange" wire connected to the ohmmeter and then take note of the two fine wires that are being routed up beside the bobbin, then to be soldered to the HEAVY RED wire. One should then be able to mechanically examine to see if the wire solder connections are being made OR if time and thermal contraction has caused a wire to shrink and break off from its connection point.
:::::
:::::
:::::For my own confirmation I will take a common single edge blade with its wrap around aluminum band and make finger pressure connection between the two to the free ohmmeter lead and make an exploratory test to the "Red" wire for an initial continuity check.
:::::I then move to the side where the fine bare wires are and then make an angled lateral micro scraping of the enameled wire to confirm a connection and then test for continuity to the other enameled lead of that wire loop.
:::::
:::::
:::::That would then confirm that the tap wire on into the winding of the transformer is good and then you hopefully might have found the open up at the end of that winding coming out and connecting on to the "Blue" wire.
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::I certainly hope that the failure mode is a time related contracting stress of the exposed wire interconnects.
:::::
:::::
:::::If one finds that, you only have the existing lead length of that fine wire, so my repair procedure is to get a fine single copper strand of AC line cord wire, pre-tin all of it, and then solder one end to the main heavy wire and cut a short remaining length.
:::::That will then reach over to the end of the broken transformers fine wire and then one fashions a small "needle eye" loop in the end of the copper splice wire.
:::::
:::::
:::::Then the broken wire is carefully scraped to the point of then applying rosin fluxing and then getting finally getting a bit of tinning being accepted by it.
:::::
:::::
:::::Lastly, the tinned wire tip is placed in the "eye of the needle" and a drop of solder then makes the continuity repair.
:::::
::::: .
:::::
:::::Time to stand by for feed back or any procedural queries . . .
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::Note:
:::::
:::::
:::::Someone has given the referenced Radius Shack-a -men-ta- tor Transformium . . . just above . . but alas, it is of a pocket radio transistor impedance orientatation, as well as having but a like flea power capability.
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::73's de Edd
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
::::::http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103254#
::::::
:::::
::::
:::
::
:
|
:EDD...
: Can I send you a copy of the schematic that I have???
:
:
:
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::Sir Joe . . . . . .
::
::
::This topic was just mentioned recently, so just refer to this quite thorough write up being hosted at this site.
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::73's de Edd
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
:::EDD...
::: These are ES(electrostatic)speakers...The material used for the press fit came out as brown dust...What material would be a good sub for this material???Foam rubber,wool???
:::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::Sir Joe . . . . . .
::::
::::
::::Good deal on the recovery of the output transformers lifespan. I would be scared to say the number of transformers that I have found that has a failure analysis in the nature of the varnish used in the soaking of the windings is just fine in the initial years. The covering is pliant and conforming to the wire . . . . specifically the fine gauge wires. After decades of years the varnish hardens, tightens more closely around the wires, buts starts a progressive minor shirinkage, then in some cases the pull snaps the wire in a weaker / poor varnish coverage area.
::::
::::
::::On cabinetry, one sees a similar effect where MULTIPLE overall fissures progressively develop in the finish coverage, after multiple decades.
::::
::::
::::
::::As per the speakers mentoned, I don't particularly see it (them ?) shown. I see two specified speakers and one of which, that seems to suggest as being connected to the end "C" terminals.
::::
::::
::::BUT, with 200 + volts before the mentioned "tweeter, would suggest it as being an electrostatic unit coupled into via an isolative capacitor. . . . or a leaky tweeter coupling capacitor ?
::::
::::
::::If you are not familiar with their operation, they definitely do NOT have the acoustical output of a coned tweeter.
::::
::::
::::Best to sub in a 10 ohm or so 5 watt dummy load resistor for each coned woofer/ speaker as one lead from each is disconnected and and then you will be able to hear ONLY the electrostatic tweeter.
::::
::::
::::
::::If it . . . the tweeter . . . then only reproduces the lisps and sss's of speech or the crisp very highest notes of music, the unit is then doing all that is expected to do.
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::73's de Edd
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::FONT SIZE=4 FACE="Comic Sans MS"COLOR=00C000>
::::
::::
:::::Thanks again to MR EDD and Norm.....
:::::After Norm confired that the plate voltage came fron the Output tranny I took it apart(UGG)what a chore it sure is tight in there and sure enough it was open at the fine wire to the connector....Got it back together and got sound out of the main speaker...but nothing out of the ES speakers.....What voltage goes across them..I have 215VDC.....I think I have to rebuild them...Any hints???
:::::FONT SIZE=4 FACE="Comic Sans MS"COLOR=000000>
:::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::Sir Joe. . . . . .
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::With your info given on the open continuity to the plate winding, it leaves us with yet another possibility for further examination of the present, special tapped , transformer.
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::Let's look into the possibility of the doing of a minor surgical examination of that transformer for checking out the chance of an internal poor /broken connection being made to either of the wire leads which I have marked up with the ( RED ) dots and its beefier main terminal wire.
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::For simplicity / clarity of the drawing the overlaying secondary "voice coil secondary winding and its two heavier interconnect wires are being omitted.
::::::
::::::You have already confirmed that the winding from the main B+ to the sub B+ is intact.
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::So lets mechanically pull the transformer, for better access and manipulation, and set up under a BRIGHT light and use a magnifier for visual assistance.
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::Use a #11 Exacto knife blade and start VERY carefully removing the layering of insulating to eventually expose what I have shown in the drawing above.
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::I have just pre-guessed at the common color coding of the assigned transformer wiring color coding and have used that which is usually the norm.
::::::
::::::
::::::If you were to then take an ohmmeter there should be decades of ohms resistance between the "Orange" wire and the "Red" wire.
::::::
::::::
::::::What I do then is leave my "Orange" wire connected to the ohmmeter and then take note of the two fine wires that are being routed up beside the bobbin, then to be soldered to the HEAVY RED wire. One should then be able to mechanically examine to see if the wire solder connections are being made OR if time and thermal contraction has caused a wire to shrink and break off from its connection point.
::::::
::::::
::::::For my own confirmation I will take a common single edge blade with its wrap around aluminum band and make finger pressure connection between the two to the free ohmmeter lead and make an exploratory test to the "Red" wire for an initial continuity check.
::::::I then move to the side where the fine bare wires are and then make an angled lateral micro scraping of the enameled wire to confirm a connection and then test for continuity to the other enameled lead of that wire loop.
::::::
::::::
::::::That would then confirm that the tap wire on into the winding of the transformer is good and then you hopefully might have found the open up at the end of that winding coming out and connecting on to the "Blue" wire.
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::I certainly hope that the failure mode is a time related contracting stress of the exposed wire interconnects.
::::::
::::::
::::::If one finds that, you only have the existing lead length of that fine wire, so my repair procedure is to get a fine single copper strand of AC line cord wire, pre-tin all of it, and then solder one end to the main heavy wire and cut a short remaining length.
::::::That will then reach over to the end of the broken transformers fine wire and then one fashions a small "needle eye" loop in the end of the copper splice wire.
::::::
::::::
::::::Then the broken wire is carefully scraped to the point of then applying rosin fluxing and then getting finally getting a bit of tinning being accepted by it.
::::::
::::::
::::::Lastly, the tinned wire tip is placed in the "eye of the needle" and a drop of solder then makes the continuity repair.
::::::
:::::: .
::::::
::::::Time to stand by for feed back or any procedural queries . . .
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::Note:
::::::
::::::
::::::Someone has given the referenced Radius Shack-a -men-ta- tor Transformium . . . just above . . but alas, it is of a pocket radio transistor impedance orientatation, as well as having but a like flea power capability.
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::73's de Edd
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
:::::::http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103254#
:::::::
::::::
:::::
::::
:::
::
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:Sir Micro9. . . . . .
:
:
:Sounds just fine by me for your schematic version being forwarded.
:
:
:I see no design logic whatsoever for a 47 ohm resistor being in series with the FM detector summng capacitor . . but it is very common for a 2 ufd unit to be used as that electrolytic units value.
:
:
:Meanwhile . . . back in the jungle . . . .what were your findings on the eye tubes operation on the AM function mode of the set.
:
:
:In the interim I will check PHILIPS for any variances on other chassis for that FM summing capacitor circuitry .
:
:
:They just don't change overnight.
:
:
:
:
:73's de Edd
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
::EDD...
:: Can I send you a copy of the schematic that I have???
::
::
::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::Sir Joe . . . . . .
:::
:::
:::This topic was just mentioned recently, so just refer to this quite thorough write up being hosted at this site.
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::73's de Edd
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
::::EDD...
:::: These are ES(electrostatic)speakers...The material used for the press fit came out as brown dust...What material would be a good sub for this material???Foam rubber,wool???
::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::Sir Joe . . . . . .
:::::
:::::
:::::Good deal on the recovery of the output transformers lifespan. I would be scared to say the number of transformers that I have found that has a failure analysis in the nature of the varnish used in the soaking of the windings is just fine in the initial years. The covering is pliant and conforming to the wire . . . . specifically the fine gauge wires. After decades of years the varnish hardens, tightens more closely around the wires, buts starts a progressive minor shirinkage, then in some cases the pull snaps the wire in a weaker / poor varnish coverage area.
:::::
:::::
:::::On cabinetry, one sees a similar effect where MULTIPLE overall fissures progressively develop in the finish coverage, after multiple decades.
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::As per the speakers mentoned, I don't particularly see it (them ?) shown. I see two specified speakers and one of which, that seems to suggest as being connected to the end "C" terminals.
:::::
:::::
:::::BUT, with 200 + volts before the mentioned "tweeter, would suggest it as being an electrostatic unit coupled into via an isolative capacitor. . . . or a leaky tweeter coupling capacitor ?
:::::
:::::
:::::If you are not familiar with their operation, they definitely do NOT have the acoustical output of a coned tweeter.
:::::
:::::
:::::Best to sub in a 10 ohm or so 5 watt dummy load resistor for each coned woofer/ speaker as one lead from each is disconnected and and then you will be able to hear ONLY the electrostatic tweeter.
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::If it . . . the tweeter . . . then only reproduces the lisps and sss's of speech or the crisp very highest notes of music, the unit is then doing all that is expected to do.
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::73's de Edd
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::FONT SIZE=4 FACE="Comic Sans MS"COLOR=00C000>
:::::
:::::
::::::Thanks again to MR EDD and Norm.....
::::::After Norm confired that the plate voltage came fron the Output tranny I took it apart(UGG)what a chore it sure is tight in there and sure enough it was open at the fine wire to the connector....Got it back together and got sound out of the main speaker...but nothing out of the ES speakers.....What voltage goes across them..I have 215VDC.....I think I have to rebuild them...Any hints???
::::::FONT SIZE=4 FACE="Comic Sans MS"COLOR=000000>
::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::Sir Joe. . . . . .
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::With your info given on the open continuity to the plate winding, it leaves us with yet another possibility for further examination of the present, special tapped , transformer.
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::Let's look into the possibility of the doing of a minor surgical examination of that transformer for checking out the chance of an internal poor /broken connection being made to either of the wire leads which I have marked up with the ( RED ) dots and its beefier main terminal wire.
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::For simplicity / clarity of the drawing the overlaying secondary "voice coil secondary winding and its two heavier interconnect wires are being omitted.
:::::::
:::::::You have already confirmed that the winding from the main B+ to the sub B+ is intact.
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::So lets mechanically pull the transformer, for better access and manipulation, and set up under a BRIGHT light and use a magnifier for visual assistance.
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::Use a #11 Exacto knife blade and start VERY carefully removing the layering of insulating to eventually expose what I have shown in the drawing above.
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::I have just pre-guessed at the common color coding of the assigned transformer wiring color coding and have used that which is usually the norm.
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::If you were to then take an ohmmeter there should be decades of ohms resistance between the "Orange" wire and the "Red" wire.
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::What I do then is leave my "Orange" wire connected to the ohmmeter and then take note of the two fine wires that are being routed up beside the bobbin, then to be soldered to the HEAVY RED wire. One should then be able to mechanically examine to see if the wire solder connections are being made OR if time and thermal contraction has caused a wire to shrink and break off from its connection point.
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::For my own confirmation I will take a common single edge blade with its wrap around aluminum band and make finger pressure connection between the two to the free ohmmeter lead and make an exploratory test to the "Red" wire for an initial continuity check.
:::::::I then move to the side where the fine bare wires are and then make an angled lateral micro scraping of the enameled wire to confirm a connection and then test for continuity to the other enameled lead of that wire loop.
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::That would then confirm that the tap wire on into the winding of the transformer is good and then you hopefully might have found the open up at the end of that winding coming out and connecting on to the "Blue" wire.
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::I certainly hope that the failure mode is a time related contracting stress of the exposed wire interconnects.
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::If one finds that, you only have the existing lead length of that fine wire, so my repair procedure is to get a fine single copper strand of AC line cord wire, pre-tin all of it, and then solder one end to the main heavy wire and cut a short remaining length.
:::::::That will then reach over to the end of the broken transformers fine wire and then one fashions a small "needle eye" loop in the end of the copper splice wire.
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::Then the broken wire is carefully scraped to the point of then applying rosin fluxing and then getting finally getting a bit of tinning being accepted by it.
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::Lastly, the tinned wire tip is placed in the "eye of the needle" and a drop of solder then makes the continuity repair.
:::::::
::::::: .
:::::::
:::::::Time to stand by for feed back or any procedural queries . . .
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::Note:
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::Someone has given the referenced Radius Shack-a -men-ta- tor Transformium . . . just above . . but alas, it is of a pocket radio transistor impedance orientatation, as well as having but a like flea power capability.
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::73's de Edd
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
::::::::http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103254#
::::::::
:::::::
::::::
:::::
::::
:::
::
:
|
:.now for the next issue....eye tube not working....there is a (-)NEG.35 volts on drive pin 1!!!Also pin 9 of the EF89 has .5 volts on it...where is that voltage coming from???Schematic shows it should be 65 volts...pin 2 of the Eabc80 show the same voltage.....the 5 uf cap has been replaced with the same results...
:
:
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::Sir Micro9. . . . . .
::
::
::Sounds just fine by me for your schematic version being forwarded.
::
::
::I see no design logic whatsoever for a 47 ohm resistor being in series with the FM detector summng capacitor . . but it is very common for a 2 ufd unit to be used as that electrolytic units value.
::
::
::Meanwhile . . . back in the jungle . . . .what were your findings on the eye tubes operation on the AM function mode of the set.
::
::
::In the interim I will check PHILIPS for any variances on other chassis for that FM summing capacitor circuitry .
::
::
::They just don't change overnight.
::
::
::
::
::73's de Edd
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
:::EDD...
::: Can I send you a copy of the schematic that I have???
:::
:::
:::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::Sir Joe . . . . . .
::::
::::
::::This topic was just mentioned recently, so just refer to this quite thorough write up being hosted at this site.
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::73's de Edd
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
:::::EDD...
::::: These are ES(electrostatic)speakers...The material used for the press fit came out as brown dust...What material would be a good sub for this material???Foam rubber,wool???
:::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::Sir Joe . . . . . .
::::::
::::::
::::::Good deal on the recovery of the output transformers lifespan. I would be scared to say the number of transformers that I have found that has a failure analysis in the nature of the varnish used in the soaking of the windings is just fine in the initial years. The covering is pliant and conforming to the wire . . . . specifically the fine gauge wires. After decades of years the varnish hardens, tightens more closely around the wires, buts starts a progressive minor shirinkage, then in some cases the pull snaps the wire in a weaker / poor varnish coverage area.
::::::
::::::
::::::On cabinetry, one sees a similar effect where MULTIPLE overall fissures progressively develop in the finish coverage, after multiple decades.
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::As per the speakers mentoned, I don't particularly see it (them ?) shown. I see two specified speakers and one of which, that seems to suggest as being connected to the end "C" terminals.
::::::
::::::
::::::BUT, with 200 + volts before the mentioned "tweeter, would suggest it as being an electrostatic unit coupled into via an isolative capacitor. . . . or a leaky tweeter coupling capacitor ?
::::::
::::::
::::::If you are not familiar with their operation, they definitely do NOT have the acoustical output of a coned tweeter.
::::::
::::::
::::::Best to sub in a 10 ohm or so 5 watt dummy load resistor for each coned woofer/ speaker as one lead from each is disconnected and and then you will be able to hear ONLY the electrostatic tweeter.
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::If it . . . the tweeter . . . then only reproduces the lisps and sss's of speech or the crisp very highest notes of music, the unit is then doing all that is expected to do.
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::73's de Edd
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::FONT SIZE=4 FACE="Comic Sans MS"COLOR=00C000>
::::::
::::::
:::::::Thanks again to MR EDD and Norm.....
:::::::After Norm confired that the plate voltage came fron the Output tranny I took it apart(UGG)what a chore it sure is tight in there and sure enough it was open at the fine wire to the connector....Got it back together and got sound out of the main speaker...but nothing out of the ES speakers.....What voltage goes across them..I have 215VDC.....I think I have to rebuild them...Any hints???
:::::::FONT SIZE=4 FACE="Comic Sans MS"COLOR=000000>
:::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::Sir Joe. . . . . .
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::With your info given on the open continuity to the plate winding, it leaves us with yet another possibility for further examination of the present, special tapped , transformer.
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::Let's look into the possibility of the doing of a minor surgical examination of that transformer for checking out the chance of an internal poor /broken connection being made to either of the wire leads which I have marked up with the ( RED ) dots and its beefier main terminal wire.
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::For simplicity / clarity of the drawing the overlaying secondary "voice coil secondary winding and its two heavier interconnect wires are being omitted.
::::::::
::::::::You have already confirmed that the winding from the main B+ to the sub B+ is intact.
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::So lets mechanically pull the transformer, for better access and manipulation, and set up under a BRIGHT light and use a magnifier for visual assistance.
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::Use a #11 Exacto knife blade and start VERY carefully removing the layering of insulating to eventually expose what I have shown in the drawing above.
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::I have just pre-guessed at the common color coding of the assigned transformer wiring color coding and have used that which is usually the norm.
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::If you were to then take an ohmmeter there should be decades of ohms resistance between the "Orange" wire and the "Red" wire.
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::What I do then is leave my "Orange" wire connected to the ohmmeter and then take note of the two fine wires that are being routed up beside the bobbin, then to be soldered to the HEAVY RED wire. One should then be able to mechanically examine to see if the wire solder connections are being made OR if time and thermal contraction has caused a wire to shrink and break off from its connection point.
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::For my own confirmation I will take a common single edge blade with its wrap around aluminum band and make finger pressure connection between the two to the free ohmmeter lead and make an exploratory test to the "Red" wire for an initial continuity check.
::::::::I then move to the side where the fine bare wires are and then make an angled lateral micro scraping of the enameled wire to confirm a connection and then test for continuity to the other enameled lead of that wire loop.
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::That would then confirm that the tap wire on into the winding of the transformer is good and then you hopefully might have found the open up at the end of that winding coming out and connecting on to the "Blue" wire.
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::I certainly hope that the failure mode is a time related contracting stress of the exposed wire interconnects.
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::If one finds that, you only have the existing lead length of that fine wire, so my repair procedure is to get a fine single copper strand of AC line cord wire, pre-tin all of it, and then solder one end to the main heavy wire and cut a short remaining length.
::::::::That will then reach over to the end of the broken transformers fine wire and then one fashions a small "needle eye" loop in the end of the copper splice wire.
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::Then the broken wire is carefully scraped to the point of then applying rosin fluxing and then getting finally getting a bit of tinning being accepted by it.
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::Lastly, the tinned wire tip is placed in the "eye of the needle" and a drop of solder then makes the continuity repair.
::::::::
:::::::: .
::::::::
::::::::Time to stand by for feed back or any procedural queries . . .
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::Note:
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::Someone has given the referenced Radius Shack-a -men-ta- tor Transformium . . . just above . . but alas, it is of a pocket radio transistor impedance orientatation, as well as having but a like flea power capability.
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::73's de Edd
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
:::::::::http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103254#
:::::::::
::::::::
:::::::
::::::
:::::
::::
:::
::
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:Sir Micro9 . . . . . .
:
:
:With you comimg back with your repetition of info just now:
:
:
: Your Micro9 on 03/26/2010 21:11, posting seems to be reading as a repetition of your Micro9 on 03/23/2010 20:57 posting info.
:
:
: It seems almost as if you did not find and read my reply back to you, that is contained within my Edd on 03/24/2010 07:45 posting.
:
:
:In which, I go into its detailed answer about the last 3/4 of the posting.
:
:
:Since you had BRANCHED OFF the posting order, I might see where you could have completely missed it.
:
:
:
:
:
:73's de Edd
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
::.now for the next issue....eye tube not working....there is a (-)NEG.35 volts on drive pin 1!!!Also pin 9 of the EF89 has .5 volts on it...where is that voltage coming from???Schematic shows it should be 65 volts...pin 2 of the Eabc80 show the same voltage.....the 5 uf cap has been replaced with the same results...
::
::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::Sir Micro9. . . . . .
:::
:::
:::Sounds just fine by me for your schematic version being forwarded.
:::
:::
:::I see no design logic whatsoever for a 47 ohm resistor being in series with the FM detector summng capacitor . . but it is very common for a 2 ufd unit to be used as that electrolytic units value.
:::
:::
:::Meanwhile . . . back in the jungle . . . .what were your findings on the eye tubes operation on the AM function mode of the set.
:::
:::
:::In the interim I will check PHILIPS for any variances on other chassis for that FM summing capacitor circuitry .
:::
:::
:::They just don't change overnight.
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::73's de Edd
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
::::EDD...
:::: Can I send you a copy of the schematic that I have???
::::
::::
::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::Sir Joe . . . . . .
:::::
:::::
:::::This topic was just mentioned recently, so just refer to this quite thorough write up being hosted at this site.
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::73's de Edd
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
::::::EDD...
:::::: These are ES(electrostatic)speakers...The material used for the press fit came out as brown dust...What material would be a good sub for this material???Foam rubber,wool???
::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::Sir Joe . . . . . .
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::Good deal on the recovery of the output transformers lifespan. I would be scared to say the number of transformers that I have found that has a failure analysis in the nature of the varnish used in the soaking of the windings is just fine in the initial years. The covering is pliant and conforming to the wire . . . . specifically the fine gauge wires. After decades of years the varnish hardens, tightens more closely around the wires, buts starts a progressive minor shirinkage, then in some cases the pull snaps the wire in a weaker / poor varnish coverage area.
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::On cabinetry, one sees a similar effect where MULTIPLE overall fissures progressively develop in the finish coverage, after multiple decades.
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::As per the speakers mentoned, I don't particularly see it (them ?) shown. I see two specified speakers and one of which, that seems to suggest as being connected to the end "C" terminals.
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::BUT, with 200 + volts before the mentioned "tweeter, would suggest it as being an electrostatic unit coupled into via an isolative capacitor. . . . or a leaky tweeter coupling capacitor ?
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::If you are not familiar with their operation, they definitely do NOT have the acoustical output of a coned tweeter.
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::Best to sub in a 10 ohm or so 5 watt dummy load resistor for each coned woofer/ speaker as one lead from each is disconnected and and then you will be able to hear ONLY the electrostatic tweeter.
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::If it . . . the tweeter . . . then only reproduces the lisps and sss's of speech or the crisp very highest notes of music, the unit is then doing all that is expected to do.
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::73's de Edd
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::FONT SIZE=4 FACE="Comic Sans MS"COLOR=00C000>
:::::::
:::::::
::::::::Thanks again to MR EDD and Norm.....
::::::::After Norm confired that the plate voltage came fron the Output tranny I took it apart(UGG)what a chore it sure is tight in there and sure enough it was open at the fine wire to the connector....Got it back together and got sound out of the main speaker...but nothing out of the ES speakers.....What voltage goes across them..I have 215VDC.....I think I have to rebuild them...Any hints???
::::::::FONT SIZE=4 FACE="Comic Sans MS"COLOR=000000>
::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::Sir Joe. . . . . .
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::With your info given on the open continuity to the plate winding, it leaves us with yet another possibility for further examination of the present, special tapped , transformer.
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::Let's look into the possibility of the doing of a minor surgical examination of that transformer for checking out the chance of an internal poor /broken connection being made to either of the wire leads which I have marked up with the ( RED ) dots and its beefier main terminal wire.
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::For simplicity / clarity of the drawing the overlaying secondary "voice coil secondary winding and its two heavier interconnect wires are being omitted.
:::::::::
:::::::::You have already confirmed that the winding from the main B+ to the sub B+ is intact.
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::So lets mechanically pull the transformer, for better access and manipulation, and set up under a BRIGHT light and use a magnifier for visual assistance.
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::Use a #11 Exacto knife blade and start VERY carefully removing the layering of insulating to eventually expose what I have shown in the drawing above.
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::I have just pre-guessed at the common color coding of the assigned transformer wiring color coding and have used that which is usually the norm.
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::If you were to then take an ohmmeter there should be decades of ohms resistance between the "Orange" wire and the "Red" wire.
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::What I do then is leave my "Orange" wire connected to the ohmmeter and then take note of the two fine wires that are being routed up beside the bobbin, then to be soldered to the HEAVY RED wire. One should then be able to mechanically examine to see if the wire solder connections are being made OR if time and thermal contraction has caused a wire to shrink and break off from its connection point.
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::For my own confirmation I will take a common single edge blade with its wrap around aluminum band and make finger pressure connection between the two to the free ohmmeter lead and make an exploratory test to the "Red" wire for an initial continuity check.
:::::::::I then move to the side where the fine bare wires are and then make an angled lateral micro scraping of the enameled wire to confirm a connection and then test for continuity to the other enameled lead of that wire loop.
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::That would then confirm that the tap wire on into the winding of the transformer is good and then you hopefully might have found the open up at the end of that winding coming out and connecting on to the "Blue" wire.
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::I certainly hope that the failure mode is a time related contracting stress of the exposed wire interconnects.
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::If one finds that, you only have the existing lead length of that fine wire, so my repair procedure is to get a fine single copper strand of AC line cord wire, pre-tin all of it, and then solder one end to the main heavy wire and cut a short remaining length.
:::::::::That will then reach over to the end of the broken transformers fine wire and then one fashions a small "needle eye" loop in the end of the copper splice wire.
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::Then the broken wire is carefully scraped to the point of then applying rosin fluxing and then getting finally getting a bit of tinning being accepted by it.
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::Lastly, the tinned wire tip is placed in the "eye of the needle" and a drop of solder then makes the continuity repair.
:::::::::
::::::::: .
:::::::::
:::::::::Time to stand by for feed back or any procedural queries . . .
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::Note:
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::Someone has given the referenced Radius Shack-a -men-ta- tor Transformium . . . just above . . but alas, it is of a pocket radio transistor impedance orientatation, as well as having but a like flea power capability.
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::73's de Edd
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
::::::::::http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103254#
::::::::::
:::::::::
::::::::
:::::::
::::::
:::::
::::
:::
::
:
: : : ![]() : : : : : : : :Sir Micro 9 . . . . . . : : : :( Hm m m m m Micro9 ? . . . Micro9 ? . . . I don't think that I'm even going to ask. . . Now Standards Micronic Ruby . . . I can handle.) : : : :For your troubleshooting assistance, herewith submitted, one each, LARGE unitized schematic of the Philips "Merkur" series . . circa '57'ish. : :The old printing had a little lateral ink creeping into the pores of the cheeeeep paper used, so I blew it on up to the point of best attainable resolution and then combined its 3 parts into one LARGE unitized format. : : :Just use "Winders" Photo / Image Viewer mode to scale / shrink down its overall viewing size, if perusing w a a a a y cross page to cross page in circuit flow observations. : : : : : : :73's de Edd : : : ![]() : |
: : : :PHILIPS BD-473 A . . . SCHEMATIC: : : : ![]() : : : : : |