I am referring to the small coil in the cathode circuit that is about 6.4 ohms on the schematic. I think this is what is referred to as the "tickler" coil.
Instead of removing the existing coil, I am thinking of winding on a small form that I can insert inside the existing one and then glue it in. Does anyone see any problem with that method?
Would this make the radio dead after a full recap? I have no voltages on the tubes, but have good voltage on the transformer and the rectifier. All the filaments are heated, but I have no voltage on the plates.
Thanks,
Steve
if you don't have voltage on the plates, something is open. start at where you have voltage and check it as it goes to various parts until you find the open.
:Does anyone know how many turns I need to wind the new coil so it works? The coil checks open.
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:I am referring to the small coil in the cathode circuit that is about 6.4 ohms on the schematic. I think this is what is referred to as the "tickler" coil.
:
:Instead of removing the existing coil, I am thinking of winding on a small form that I can insert inside the existing one and then glue it in. Does anyone see any problem with that method?
:
:Would this make the radio dead after a full recap? I have no voltages on the tubes, but have good voltage on the transformer and the rectifier. All the filaments are heated, but I have no voltage on the plates.
:
:Thanks,
:Steve
:
T.
I think I read the choke and the field coil, they add up to that.
:No voltage on the plates does indicate the field coil is open from what you are saying. 1250 ohm filter choke.
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Ill see if I can test the audio output coil also.
:Test the field coil and audio output transformer primary for shorts to ground. If that is Okay, then test for voltage on both sides of the field coil. If you get nothing the 80 rectifier could be bad.
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