I am wondering when you are trying to pull out very stubborn large 4-8 prong tubes if they can be damaged by wiggling them out from the glass part.Can the seal be broken or the joint where the glass meets the plastic/bakelite bass come unglued if trying to yank them out?I try to do it from the bass and I am thinking of getting one of those tong tube pullers from Antique Electronic Supply.Or am I just worrying about nothing?

You can damage the tube--seal, wires, etc. Always pull from the base, unless the tube comes out easily, and the bulb is secured well to the base.

T.

:You can damage the tube--seal, wires, etc. Always pull from the base, unless the tube comes out easily, and the bulb is secured well to the base.
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:T.
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I usually put a slot screwdriver under the base while I'm rocking the tube gently. It seems that dirt, moisture and age can lock those pins to the contacts. The loctals should be moved towards the bump on the side of the metal base. Octals should not be moved too far in any direction or you can break the key (use JB Weld if you do).
Johnnysan-

::You can damage the tube--seal, wires, etc. Always pull from the base, unless the tube comes out easily, and the bulb is secured well to the base.
::
::T.
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:
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:I usually put a slot screwdriver under the base while I'm rocking the tube gently. It seems that dirt, moisture and age can lock those pins to the contacts. The loctals should be moved towards the bump on the side of the metal base. Octals should not be moved too far in any direction or you can break the key (use JB Weld if you do).
:Johnnysan-
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:
:
Hardest tube I ever removed LOL

Never pull an old tube out by the glass portion. If it is stuck you can try to spray a little deoxit (from the bottom of the tube socket on the pins, and again between the tube base and socket.) Then very gently rock the tube a couple of degrees in every direction by holding the base only. and pull gently.
If you resort to leverage, and have the room, pry gently with two thin bladed wide screwdrivers or other implements both at the same time 180 degrees apart. I've also tried taking the soldering iron to the tube socket, heating each one as if I was touching up the connection. Sometimes that will help.
I have never gone this far, but I remember someone suggesting putting the chassis in the oven at about 125 degrees for a half hour, and then give it a try.

Loctals are a whole other matter. bend only towards the dimple as was suggested. WD40 sprayed on the locking (center pin) of the tube usually helps. This locking pin, and it's retainer can indeed lock up. You can gently pry it apart after the WD40 sinks in with a dental explorer or tiny screwdriver to bust the corrosion glue that has formed.

Of course everything has to be cleaned up before you re-insert the tube.

One other thing, label each tube with a china marker beause when you attempt to clean them, the decals will come off. Want to preservethe decals? Clean very gently with paint thinner. Hope this helps.

:::You can damage the tube--seal, wires, etc. Always pull from the base, unless the tube comes out easily, and the bulb is secured well to the base.
:::
:::T.
:::
::
::
::I usually put a slot screwdriver under the base while I'm rocking the tube gently. It seems that dirt, moisture and age can lock those pins to the contacts. The loctals should be moved towards the bump on the side of the metal base. Octals should not be moved too far in any direction or you can break the key (use JB Weld if you do).
::Johnnysan-
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::
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:I had a radio that had a bad socket and the last person to work on it soldered the tube to the socket.
:Hardest tube I ever removed LOL
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