I speaking of (for example) the tube layout or schematics found inside radios . Mine is peeling. I just want to get it right. Thank you very much

:I speaking of (for example) the tube layout or schematics found inside radios . Mine is peeling. I just want to get it right. Thank you very much
:

Elmer's is long lasting. You could also use rubber cement, that goes bad in a few years and yellows things, or contact cement, that is messy to work with, and doesn't lay down evenly. Manufacturers used different kinds of glues, some of that are waterproof, and some that are not. Elmer's is stable and long lasting, and is highly water resistant, so unless you plan on soaking your cabinet, that would prove to be disasterous in any case, it should work well for you.

T.

If you're looking for something a little more authentic, get a bottle of mucilage glue. It's similar in characteristics to the hide glue used originally - but from a vegetable, rather than animal, source. It's getting harder to find - but I occasionally see it at WalMart and at office and school supply stores.

How about a glue stick? very little mess, and no cleanup afterward. Only drawback is position carefully, you don't get a second chance. I have labels applied with a glue stick five years ago, and there is no sign of lifting, peeling or loosening at all.

I like glue sticks too and use them often. Much neater than liquids...

:I like glue sticks too and use them often. Much neater than liquids...
:

Ok , Now is there some kind of varnish used on those labels? Mine seem to have a shiny smooth surface on them. What I'm trying to do is reproduce some by copying one's that are too far gone . And try to make them appear like they are old . Though I'm sure I can't make them as yellow as 60 YO paper. Many thanks

Andrew,
If you have reasonable PC skills and appropriate photo editing software, should be a breeze. I use MS Visio to make some labels, even water side decals over alum foil look like the real metallic like chassis labels.(even aged ones) Adobe or other editors are equally useful.

marv

:Ok , Now is there some kind of varnish used on those labels? Mine seem to have a shiny smooth surface on them. What I'm trying to do is reproduce some by copying one's that are too far gone . And try to make them appear like they are old . Though I'm sure I can't make them as yellow as 60 YO paper. Many thanks
:

Andrew,
OOPS!! Forgot the glue. Most of the glue back in the day, was hide glue for wood and a lot of other stuff. A modern chemical equiv is available in liquid form, and appropriately named "Hide Glue" The real thing is still available today in dry granules or pebbles. Mixed with hot water 'til dissolved, then brushed on. Dries brownish semi transparent, with a slight gloss (like varnish) It can be softened with steam (iron), but paper labels may be a bit more difficult.

marv

:Ok , Now is there some kind of varnish used on those labels? Mine seem to have a shiny smooth surface on them. What I'm trying to do is reproduce some by copying one's that are too far gone . And try to make them appear like they are old . Though I'm sure I can't make them as yellow as 60 YO paper. Many thanks
:

:Andrew,
:OOPS!! Forgot the glue. Most of the glue back in the day, was hide glue for wood and a lot of other stuff. A modern chemical equiv is available in liquid form, and appropriately named "Hide Glue" The real thing is still available today in dry granules or pebbles. Mixed with hot water 'til dissolved, then brushed on. Dries brownish semi transparent, with a slight gloss (like varnish) It can be softened with steam (iron), but paper labels may be a bit more difficult.
: Thanks Mary ,Yes I had to boil some water and soaked the old label .That got the label ( for the most part) off in one piece. With those programs you were talking about,How does that work ? Would the original get scanned? Thanks again ,Andrew
:marv
:
::Ok , Now is there some kind of varnish used on those labels? Mine seem to have a shiny smooth surface on them. What I'm trying to do is reproduce some by copying one's that are too far gone . And try to make them appear like they are old . Though I'm sure I can't make them as yellow as 60 YO paper. Many thanks
::
:

Andrew,
First off, you'd have to try duplicating the text fonts (not always easy) I've made water slide decals for dial glasses and front name plates, but it takes a bit of experimentation, PC software, photo editors, and a lot of patience. I scan every dial I remove, before any attempt to clean it, and the same with any labels I remove intact. You'd have to be familiar with any software product on your PC for editing photos or creating a new label.

marv

::Andrew,
::OOPS!! Forgot the glue. Most of the glue back in the day, was hide glue for wood and a lot of other stuff. A modern chemical equiv is available in liquid form, and appropriately named "Hide Glue" The real thing is still available today in dry granules or pebbles. Mixed with hot water 'til dissolved, then brushed on. Dries brownish semi transparent, with a slight gloss (like varnish) It can be softened with steam (iron), but paper labels may be a bit more difficult.
:: Thanks Mary ,Yes I had to boil some water and soaked the old label .That got the label ( for the most part) off in one piece. With those programs you were talking about,How does that work ? Would the original get scanned? Thanks again ,Andrew
::marv
::
:::Ok , Now is there some kind of varnish used on those labels? Mine seem to have a shiny smooth surface on them. What I'm trying to do is reproduce some by copying one's that are too far gone . And try to make them appear like they are old . Though I'm sure I can't make them as yellow as 60 YO paper. Many thanks
:::
::
:

:Andrew,
:First off, you'd have to try duplicating the text fonts (not always easy) I've made water slide decals for dial glasses and front name plates, but it takes a bit of experimentation, PC software, photo editors, and a lot of patience. I scan every dial I remove, before any attempt to clean it, and the same with any labels I remove intact. You'd have to be familiar with any software product on your PC for editing photos or creating a new label.
:
:marv
:
:::Andrew,
:::OOPS!! Forgot the glue. Most of the glue back in the day, was hide glue for wood and a lot of other stuff. A modern chemical equiv is available in liquid form, and appropriately named "Hide Glue" The real thing is still available today in dry granules or pebbles. Mixed with hot water 'til dissolved, then brushed on. Dries brownish semi transparent, with a slight gloss (like varnish) It can be softened with steam (iron), but paper labels may be a bit more difficult.
::: Thanks Mary ,Yes I had to boil some water and soaked the old label .That got the label ( for the most part) off in one piece. With those programs you were talking about,How does that work ? Would the original get scanned? Thanks again ,Andrew
:::marv
:::
::::Ok , Now is there some kind of varnish used on those labels? Mine seem to have a shiny smooth surface on them. What I'm trying to do is reproduce some by copying one's that are too far gone . And try to make them appear like they are old . Though I'm sure I can't make them as yellow as 60 YO paper. Many thanks
::::
:::
::
:
Being an experimenter with various materials, I would fare to say, try the coffee tea staining method. Dampen an old cotton cloth with the coffee and dab the paper. So what if it wrinkels a bit. Use a warm iron and there you have it. Done it on many occasions with many other projects. Try it, have fun with it.

The coffee or tea staining does work wonders. Also, brown shoe polish rubbed on a label can add the color effect of aging - with the added benefit of offering some moisture protection...... Carefully baking a repro label in a toaster oven will speed up natural oxidation and add the color and fragility characteristic of age..... Hmmm - maybe we shouldn't be giving away ALL our tricks... ;)

A (real) long time ago we used to use something called "Water Glass" which is sodium silicate dissolved in water, to brush on cartons, then lay down a shipping label, and then brush it again. Slicker 'n snot!

:The coffee or tea staining does work wonders. Also, brown shoe polish rubbed on a label can add the color effect of aging - with the added benefit of offering some moisture protection...... Carefully baking a repro label in a toaster oven will speed up natural oxidation and add the color and fragility characteristic of age..... Hmmm - maybe we shouldn't be giving away ALL our tricks... ;)
:

Ok , Thanks for all the ideas that's very interesting .One last question. I've been using the photo copier at the local library ,Is a photo copy good enough? Maybe office depot could scan it ,and then it could be cleaned up in the computer and printed provided it came out the same size. (shadows ,tears, ect) . I'll try the coffee ,tea ,shoe polish on a photo copy and see what happens. Thanks eveyone