2 Section Resistor Replacement with mystery part Philco 112

1/23/2010 5:06:41 PMBob E

I need help here with this 2 section resistor.
It is a Philco 112 (serial no above 174000)

Are A-B and B-C the separate 70 ohm sections of part 69 resistor?

From C to the Chassis ground boltloop thing...what is
missing here?

Part D looks to be a burnt and has 7 or so windings
visible. This is all that was in the set. I saw no pieces laying around.

My question is how to replace this No 69 the two part resistor.
and whatever that is that is burned?
The wire connected to A goes to the transformer
and the wire from B goes to Bakelite BlockCap part number 6 (By-pass condenser) via a hook up on the chassis.
When I measure between A-B and B-C I get roughly 140-150 ohms.
Do I need whatever D is (or was)?
thanks, Bob E.

1/23/2010 6:56:27 PMEdd

Sir Bob E. E. E. E. E. . . . . .(Now, would that combination pronounce out as . .BOBBY ?

Looking at your assigned [D] terminal markup, seems like those multi turns of nichrome wire are to assure a good low ohmmic contact to that strap around it, which assuredly is connected to the mounting ground tab with the internal hole in it . . . all sticking out at the end .

In tracking down those wires to their circuitry tie ins, using your descriptions, seems to confirm their circuitry locations, with cross referencing back to the schematic, and all does seems correct.

Your photo seems to make it look like that MUTER power resistor strip is ACTUALLY a 3 section unit, which has a very crude jumper wire / buss between your C-D designations, thus effectively shunting out that section.

( Do note the high quality drip soldering performed on the C terminal and also to the edge of that surround strap clamp to the right. )

Therefore C is effectively going to ground , with circuit business being as usual at the B tap and the high end of the resistor at A with 70 ohms being between each of them.

(But that thing DO look crappy !)

73's de Edd

:
:
:I need help here with this 2 section resistor.
:It is a Philco 112 (serial no above 174000)
:
:Are A-B and B-C the separate 70 ohm sections of part 69 resistor?
:
:From C to the Chassis ground boltloop thing...what is
:missing here?
:
:Part D looks to be a burnt and has 7 or so windings
:visible. This is all that was in the set. I saw no pieces laying around.
:
:My question is how to replace this No 69 the two part resistor.
:and whatever that is that is burned?
:The wire connected to A goes to the transformer
:and the wire from B goes to Bakelite BlockCap part number 6 (By-pass condenser) via a hook up on the chassis.
:When I measure between A-B and B-C I get roughly 140-150 ohms.
:Do I need whatever D is (or was)?
:thanks, Bob E.
:

1/23/2010 7:02:19 PMWarren

What you have there is a flat wire wound resistor. Here is a Philco link showing this.

http://www.philcorepairbench.com/flexrest.htm

This link will also show those bakelite block capacitors as well. You do need to replace those with modern day equivalent with the same values.

The part "D" is what's left of the original resistor.

1/23/2010 7:45:43 PMBob E to Edd/Warren

Ok, thanks for the input...
Question now is:
That toasted Flex wire wound resistor My Part "designasheown" "D"...
I do not see it on the schematic... do I need to include something in place of it? I am thinking I need to replace the dual resistor as each section (A-B and B-C) each measures twice the rated 70 ohm value at 150-ish ohms. I tested it as you see it pictured. Or should I disconnect one or both of those other wires
at A and/or B? Can I use two 70 ohm replacements of
5 watt value? Should I include a "good low ohmic" value resistor (whatever value that would be) between C and D?
Waiting patiently on the frozen tundra in mid Iowa....
Bob EEEEEEEEEEEE
Only my aunts and uncles and a Seee--lect few cousins still call me Bobby.. :O)165

1/23/2010 7:49:15 PMBob E (typo correction...

make that:
Can I use two 70 ohm replacements of
1/2 watt value?

1/23/2010 8:06:09 PMWarren

Being those were wire wound in the power supply, I would use two 70 ohm resistors of at least 5 watts in series to be on the safe side.

1/24/2010 10:34:37 AMBob E

Warren, So I will connect the two 5 watt 70 ohm resistors in series and where they join that will be where my "B" designated wire connects? The other two
ends connect to "A" and the other to the strap clamp connection to chassis ground "D".
AND I NEED NOT REPLACE THAT TOASTED flat wire wound resistor with anything?
thanks, Bob

:Being those were wire wound in the power supply, I would use two 70 ohm resistors of at least 5 watts in series to be on the safe side.
:

1/24/2010 11:55:25 AMBob E (Further Investigation)

In checking Chuck Schwarks Philco resistor page:

http://www.philcorepairbench.com/flexrest.htm

I see what the whole part of my burnt resistor probably looked like at the upper left of his resistor page. So now I am wondering if that other part which goes from A to C (my photo designations) was a replacement for the burned part? and therefore all I
need are two 70 ohm 5 watt to replace that A-D section?

1/24/2010 12:31:02 PMWarren

Electronically your are simulating that old flex resistor with two new resistors in series. Where the new resistors are soldered together is your new B connection.

1/24/2010 12:41:48 PMBob E.

Thanks Warren,

...and the A to C piece is not needed correct?
(I just noticed that I did not pay very close attention to your first post about the Schwark page.. sorry.)

:Electronically your are simulating that old flex resistor with two new resistors in series. Where the new resistors are soldered together is your new B connection.
:
:

1/24/2010 12:41:48 PMBob E.

Thanks Warren,

...and the A to C piece is not needed correct?
(I just noticed that I did not pay very close attention to your first post about the Schwark page.. sorry.)

:Electronically your are simulating that old flex resistor with two new resistors in series. Where the new resistors are soldered together is your new B connection.
:
:

1/24/2010 12:53:47 PMWarren

That's right. No need for the old toasty part anymore. You are making a new replacement.