Hi all I have been restoring radios for years and picked up a early 1950s Admiral TV I would like to restore ...Looking for someone who has worked on such and could throw a few pointers my way....I am aware that there will be HIGH volatge on this set...And lots of wire to replace (old and brittle) ..I will replace caps and resistor as needed..same as restoring old radios ..but what eles should I be aware of and any sites for picking up info on such Also all I have is a chassis # (30A1 s-e) and would liek to find a picture of my set or midel # ..THANKS FOR ANY SUGGESTIONS!!!

First off test the CRT. I would bet it's weak and gassy. May check about re-built CRT if needed. Second the Flyback transfomer. Admial sets did burn up alot of there high voltage transformers. Check for open or shorted deflection yolk too. This would be a start to see if it's worth it or not.

:First off test the CRT. I would bet it's weak and gassy. May check about re-built CRT if needed. Second the Flyback transfomer. Admial sets did burn up alot of there high voltage transformers. Check for open or shorted deflection yolk too. This would be a start to see if it's worth it or not.
:
Lewis

Nor sure what u mean by CRT....deflection yolk?

::First off test the CRT. I would bet it's weak and gassy. May check about re-built CRT if needed. Second the Flyback transfomer. Admial sets did burn up alot of there high voltage transformers. Check for open or shorted deflection yolk too. This would be a start to see if it's worth it or not.
::
:
:
:
:About the only thing that will be new is the horizontal circuity and the AGC, if it has AGC. The horiz synch. circuits are not anything in radio, and they produce the high Voltage for the CRT. The Vertical is a little hard to understand, but not too bad.
:Lewis
:
:
:
:

Also how would i check to see if tube is gassy

:Nor sure what u mean by CRT....deflection yolk?
:
:::First off test the CRT. I would bet it's weak and gassy. May check about re-built CRT if needed. Second the Flyback transfomer. Admial sets did burn up alot of there high voltage transformers. Check for open or shorted deflection yolk too. This would be a start to see if it's worth it or not.
:::
::
::
::
::About the only thing that will be new is the horizontal circuity and the AGC, if it has AGC. The horiz synch. circuits are not anything in radio, and they produce the high Voltage for the CRT. The Vertical is a little hard to understand, but not too bad.
::Lewis
::
::
::
::
:

:Also Hi George, CRT stands for Cathode Ray Tube or as the man on the street would call the "picture Tube" about same thing as u looking at to read this. Used to work at furniture store [GE & RCA] that did tv repair work. Customer would always be told "bad CRT"
::::
:::
:::
:::
:::About the only thing that will be new is the horizontal circuity and the AGC, if it has AGC. The horiz synch. circuits are not anything in radio, and they produce the high Voltage for the CRT. The Vertical is a little hard to understand, but not too bad.
:::Lewis
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:::
:::
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:

CRT does mean Picture Tube. If you can have it tested, and shows good emission it is most likely OKAY. What is ment by gassy is air leakage in the tube. The deflection yolk is that coil of wire around the neck of the picture tube. That is what makes the vertical and horizontal deflection for a picture. Leave the Plate cap off of the Horizontal output tube, and check for negative drive voltage from the horizontal oscillator drive circuit to the horizontal output tube. If there was no drive, with the Plate cap connected that would destroy the output tube quick. You do need the schmatic showing where all this stuff is, if you have little experience in TV repair.

I don't see why the CRT would likely be gassy any more than any other tube would likely be gassy. Most tubes aren't, and most last a long time. However, it is possible. Most likely, unless the set was used way too much, the CRT will work alright to well, and won't need to be replaced.

T.

There is really no such thing as perfect vacuum. Some picture tubes are just a little better than others. Remember the old in-line brighteners? A step up transformer that would increase heater voltage for dim looking pictures. This did work for weak tubes, however if the tube was more gassy than others. It still had the out of focus look at increased beam current (brightness).
Small tubes I think are just easy to pull a vacuum on. But with the larger area of a picture tube bell, and shooting a beam that far, need strong emission.

Again, all of this can be true, but I don't see the evidence that the tube will likely be gassy. It is possible, but not likely.

T.

Ok after hrs of research I learned that my TV is a 1948 Admiral model # 30A1 Anyone know where I could find a schematic and DL it like we can here for radio schematics...THANKS!!

:Hi all I have been restoring radios for years and picked up a early 1950s Admiral TV I would like to restore ...Looking for someone who has worked on such and could throw a few pointers my way....I am aware that there will be HIGH volatge on this set...And lots of wire to replace (old and brittle) ..I will replace caps and resistor as needed..same as restoring old radios ..but what eles should I be aware of and any sites for picking up info on such Also all I have is a chassis # (30A1 s-e) and would liek to find a picture of my set or midel # ..THANKS FOR ANY SUGGESTIONS!!!
:

The Sams Photofact for your TV is Folder 57, #2. You can order it from Sams (http://www.samswebsite.com/photofact/pf_search.asp). They sell PDF versions but I've noticed that sometimes they can be a bit fuzzy & hard to read the part #s, viltages, etc. I tend to prefer to order original copies, various web sites have them, & sometimes they can be found on ebay. This guy has what you need: http://tubes_tubes_tubes.tripod.com/tubestubestubes/id36.html. I've bought from him a few times & have been pleased. As a bonus, Sams photofacts usually have a picture of the unit.

Hope this helps, Mark

:Ok after hrs of research I learned that my TV is a 1948 Admiral model # 30A1 Anyone know where I could find a schematic and DL it like we can here for radio schematics...THANKS!!
:
:
::Hi all I have been restoring radios for years and picked up a early 1950s Admiral TV I would like to restore ...Looking for someone who has worked on such and could throw a few pointers my way....I am aware that there will be HIGH volatge on this set...And lots of wire to replace (old and brittle) ..I will replace caps and resistor as needed..same as restoring old radios ..but what eles should I be aware of and any sites for picking up info on such Also all I have is a chassis # (30A1 s-e) and would liek to find a picture of my set or midel # ..THANKS FOR ANY SUGGESTIONS!!!
::
:

You may want to consider posting to the AudioKarma.org forums in the future. There are many there about antique TVs and restoring them.

For a schematic, you might try Sams Photofact at http://www.sams.com or see if Antique Electronic Supply can sell you the schematic at http://www.tubesandmore.com

:Hi all I have been restoring radios for years and picked up a early 1950s Admiral TV I would like to restore ...Looking for someone who has worked on such and could throw a few pointers my way....I am aware that there will be HIGH volatge on this set...And lots of wire to replace (old and brittle) ..I will replace caps and resistor as needed..same as restoring old radios ..but what eles should I be aware of and any sites for picking up info on such Also all I have is a chassis # (30A1 s-e) and would liek to find a picture of my set or midel # ..THANKS FOR ANY SUGGESTIONS!!!
:

:Hi all I have been restoring radios for years and picked up a early 1950s Admiral TV I would like to restore ...Looking for someone who has worked on such and could throw a few pointers my way....I am aware that there will be HIGH volatge on this set...And lots of wire to replace (old and brittle) ..I will replace caps and resistor as needed..same as restoring old radios ..but what eles should I be aware of and any sites for picking up info on such Also all I have is a chassis # (30A1 s-e) and would liek to find a picture of my set or midel # ..THANKS FOR ANY SUGGESTIONS!!!
:
Please make sure you short out the power supply before doing anything to any TV. My dad always took a screwdriver from the top of the power tube cap and shorted it to the doghouse, he called it, the metal box the supply unit was encased in. Be careful, deadly voltage.

That's right about the High Voltage. You can get a good jolt if you don't bleed that off. Use a clip lead to the chassis ground. Connect the other end to a screw drivers shaft. Touch that to the High Voltage anode of the picture tube. Keep it connected for a few seconds. Even after that, it still may have some left. Do it again before you touch it. On solid state sets, It's better to use a bleeder resistor.

:That's right about the High Voltage. You can get a good jolt if you don't bleed that off. Use a clip lead to the chassis ground. Connect the other end to a screw drivers shaft. Touch that to the High Voltage anode of the picture tube. Keep it connected for a few seconds. Even after that, it still may have some left. Do it again before you touch it. On solid state sets, It's better to use a bleeder resistor.
:
Lewis

I am hoping there is someone who use to restore old tvs in this forum (I have tried others with no luck)..I am restoring a 1948 Admiral #30A145 and need the "dog house" top cover or a chassis with good labels...

:Hi all I have been restoring radios for years and picked up a early 1950s Admiral TV I would like to restore ...Looking for someone who has worked on such and could throw a few pointers my way....I am aware that there will be HIGH volatge on this set...And lots of wire to replace (old and brittle) ..I will replace caps and resistor as needed..same as restoring old radios ..but what eles should I be aware of and any sites for picking up info on such Also all I have is a chassis # (30A1 s-e) and would liek to find a picture of my set or midel # ..THANKS FOR ANY SUGGESTIONS!!!
:

I just ( 3 weeks ago) finished one of these. DO you have both chassis? or is there a power transformer mounted on that chssis you have? I didnt have many problems with mine, it is the console version.
Good luck

:I am hoping there is someone who use to restore old tvs in this forum (I have tried others with no luck)..I am restoring a 1948 Admiral #30A145 and need the "dog house" top cover or a chassis with good labels...
:
:
::Hi all I have been restoring radios for years and picked up a early 1950s Admiral TV I would like to restore ...Looking for someone who has worked on such and could throw a few pointers my way....I am aware that there will be HIGH volatge on this set...And lots of wire to replace (old and brittle) ..I will replace caps and resistor as needed..same as restoring old radios ..but what eles should I be aware of and any sites for picking up info on such Also all I have is a chassis # (30A1 s-e) and would liek to find a picture of my set or midel # ..THANKS FOR ANY SUGGESTIONS!!!
::
:

Ian..my Admiral #30A145 TV is the console version...I bought it for $25 ..but the only problem it is missing the top cover on the dog house and the main power resistor in the dog house is bad..COULD YOU PLEASE TELL ME THE VALUE OF THE SECTION ..Thanks (I am waiting to recieve a schematic). I cleaned 60 years of grime off the two chassis. I just started to do the electronic work and as of last night (1/12) I started to work on the power chassis. I don't have any caps at 350V to replace the cans on top ....so I am using 450v caps..(For example: One can is 40 40 @ 350...so for each section I am usuing two 22 @ 450v for a total of 4 22 @ 450v..) gets kind-a bulky under chassis but it will be sound...GEEZ THINK THIS HAS ENOUGH CAPS AND RESISTORS... Ohh hey I don't have any caps in my parts that are 25mf at 50V do you have any I could buy? I only need 2...Thanks for any help...

:I just ( 3 weeks ago) finished one of these. DO you have both chassis? or is there a power transformer mounted on that chssis you have? I didnt have many problems with mine, it is the console version.
:Good luck
:
:
:
:
:
:
::I am hoping there is someone who use to restore old tvs in this forum (I have tried others with no luck)..I am restoring a 1948 Admiral #30A145 and need the "dog house" top cover or a chassis with good labels...
::
::
:::Hi all I have been restoring radios for years and picked up a early 1950s Admiral TV I would like to restore ...Looking for someone who has worked on such and could throw a few pointers my way....I am aware that there will be HIGH volatge on this set...And lots of wire to replace (old and brittle) ..I will replace caps and resistor as needed..same as restoring old radios ..but what eles should I be aware of and any sites for picking up info on such Also all I have is a chassis # (30A1 s-e) and would liek to find a picture of my set or midel # ..THANKS FOR ANY SUGGESTIONS!!!
:::
::
:

Edd In regards to the power resitor..they are using a 500 and a 5300 section together for 5800 ohms eeek...I think i have some of these in my supply...THANKS for the info !!!

:
:

: : : : : : : :Sir "George". . . . . . : : : : :Looks like that power reee-sistor in question . . . and that is HEAV-EE on the power, located at the right :rear chassis corner of the doghouse, is a 50 watter unit that is 500--500--5300 omegas in value. : : :I think that the availability . . . EVER . . . of that doggie house top cover will be an impossibility, unless :you make a midnight . . . wee hours . . . . visit to Sir Ians . : : :A sheet metal fabricator . . . air conditioner duct fabricator . . . would only have to make 2 precise :measurements of size and then two folds /bends plus a lip fold around and 4 spot welds on that lip to duplicate :that original unit. : : :BTW . . .MOST of the units I ever ran across had a small retainer chain attached to KEEP that cover unit :nearby. : : :Also my images detail precludes being able to differentiate as to whether the cover was aluminum :or steel. : : :BUT usually most steel units had louvers molded in for ventilation imstead of the 'lebenteen kazillion holes :your main cage assembly shows. : : :Guess that you will have to put a magnet to the present cage to see if the unit is steel or alum-i-ninny-yum-yum . :That effect is also replicable by a fabricator if he merely scribes lines for the hole locations and then uses his :pneumatic to punch the holes, of course, that would be the first thing to be done before the bends. : : :A co-operative Ian should be able to check his unit and pass on the hole pattern and hole count of the unit :which he has on his set. : : :With what I see of this photos cage, it appears to me to as NOT having a flat paint finish on it, but possibly :being made of aluminum and having a light anodizing and the use of a black analine dye then providing for :the colorization of the unit. : : :ALSO, I would thing that the possibilities of your picture tube not being in gassy low emisson state are :certainly GREATLY improved with its snmall kine size versus the set being a larger 21-24-27 . . .or Dios :Amanecio . . . a 30 inch round as was tried out on the old Hoffmans and Stromberg Carlsons. : : :Foto: . . . . . (Getting down, inside the doghouse) : : : : : : : : : : :73's de Edd : : : :

:
:

You are correct sir... My Tv is connected to the center tap between the two 500 ohm strips and at the bottom of the 5300 ohm strip....for a total of 5800 ohms...The very top 500 ohm section is not used...I do not have a schematic (waiting on one)..Could you verify for me? THANK YOU!!!

:
:

: : : : :Sir "George". . . . . : :Now, are you ‘rat sure on that power reee-sistor., my documentation lists it as : : :schematic symbol R98A . . . . Its being a 50 watt unit . . . and should have 4 straps / terminals : : sticking out of the conformal vitreous over coating. : : :Matter of fact, I am looking at the photo now. : : :In looking downwards from its top, seems like I can almost ? make out the short spacing between the : :series connected (2).500 ohm sections and their 2 bulging convolutions . . then the looong spacing of the 5300 ohm : :winding and then its end being at the very bottom. : : :That shows up as an initial bulge out for the very top end terminal then two outward bulges between : : the 500 ohm sections and then the final bulge out at the very bottom for the last terminal. : : :I did not trace down their circuit positions / functions, with its schematic using up all of two giant : : pages. But assuredly, they are hi power dropping resistors associated with the main power supply : :or the next current hog being the Hoz deflection circuit, with the vertical circuit being next in line. : : : : : : :73's de Edd : : ::

:
:
:
:
:
:
::Edd In regards to the power resitor..they are using a 500 and a 5300 section together for 5800 ohms eeek...I think i have some of these in my supply...THANKS for the info !!!
::
::
::
:::
:::

::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: :::Sir "George". . . . . . ::: ::: ::: ::: :::Looks like that power reee-sistor in question . . . and that is HEAV-EE on the power, located at the right :::rear chassis corner of the doghouse, is a 50 watter unit that is 500--500--5300 omegas in value. ::: ::: :::I think that the availability . . . EVER . . . of that doggie house top cover will be an impossibility, unless :::you make a midnight . . . wee hours . . . . visit to Sir Ians . ::: ::: :::A sheet metal fabricator . . . air conditioner duct fabricator . . . would only have to make 2 precise :::measurements of size and then two folds /bends plus a lip fold around and 4 spot welds on that lip to duplicate :::that original unit. ::: ::: :::BTW . . .MOST of the units I ever ran across had a small retainer chain attached to KEEP that cover unit :::nearby. ::: ::: :::Also my images detail precludes being able to differentiate as to whether the cover was aluminum :::or steel. ::: ::: :::BUT usually most steel units had louvers molded in for ventilation imstead of the 'lebenteen kazillion holes :::your main cage assembly shows. ::: ::: :::Guess that you will have to put a magnet to the present cage to see if the unit is steel or alum-i-ninny-yum-yum . :::That effect is also replicable by a fabricator if he merely scribes lines for the hole locations and then uses his :::pneumatic to punch the holes, of course, that would be the first thing to be done before the bends. ::: ::: :::A co-operative Ian should be able to check his unit and pass on the hole pattern and hole count of the unit :::which he has on his set. ::: ::: :::With what I see of this photos cage, it appears to me to as NOT having a flat paint finish on it, but possibly :::being made of aluminum and having a light anodizing and the use of a black analine dye then providing for :::the colorization of the unit. ::: ::: :::ALSO, I would thing that the possibilities of your picture tube not being in gassy low emisson state are :::certainly GREATLY improved with its snmall kine size versus the set being a larger 21-24-27 . . .or Dios :::Amanecio . . . a 30 inch round as was tried out on the old Hoffmans and Stromberg Carlsons. ::: ::: :::Foto: . . . . . (Getting down, inside the doghouse) ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: :::73's de Edd ::: ::: ::: :::

:::
:::
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:

Yes, it should be on the center tap. (mine is) However, this resistror is in the horizontal damping circut. Mine Was also bad. The tv worked with it(~15meg ohms) but the linearity was awful. Once replaced, the picture went back to normal.

As for the HV cage, it is steel and flat black. I will try to get you more information (what do you need?)

Do you need the schematic? I have the photofact, but would need to scan it though. (not untill friday night/weekend)

Ian

:You are correct sir... My Tv is connected to the center tap between the two 500 ohm strips and at the bottom of the 5300 ohm strip....for a total of 5800 ohms...The very top 500 ohm section is not used...I do not have a schematic (waiting on one)..Could you verify for me? THANK YOU!!!
:
:
::
::

:: :: :: :: ::Sir "George". . . . . :: ::Now, are you ‘rat sure on that power reee-sistor., my documentation lists it as :: :: ::schematic symbol R98A . . . . Its being a 50 watt unit . . . and should have 4 straps / terminals :: :: sticking out of the conformal vitreous over coating. :: :: ::Matter of fact, I am looking at the photo now. :: :: ::In looking downwards from its top, seems like I can almost ? make out the short spacing between the :: ::series connected (2).500 ohm sections and their 2 bulging convolutions . . then the looong spacing of the 5300 ohm :: ::winding and then its end being at the very bottom. :: :: ::That shows up as an initial bulge out for the very top end terminal then two outward bulges between :: :: the 500 ohm sections and then the final bulge out at the very bottom for the last terminal. :: :: ::I did not trace down their circuit positions / functions, with its schematic using up all of two giant :: :: pages. But assuredly, they are hi power dropping resistors associated with the main power supply :: ::or the next current hog being the Hoz deflection circuit, with the vertical circuit being next in line. :: :: :: :: :: :: ::73's de Edd :: :: :::

::
::
::
::
::
::
:::Edd In regards to the power resitor..they are using a 500 and a 5300 section together for 5800 ohms eeek...I think i have some of these in my supply...THANKS for the info !!!
:::
:::
:::
::::
::::

:::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: ::::Sir "George". . . . . . :::: :::: :::: :::: ::::Looks like that power reee-sistor in question . . . and that is HEAV-EE on the power, located at the right ::::rear chassis corner of the doghouse, is a 50 watter unit that is 500--500--5300 omegas in value. :::: :::: ::::I think that the availability . . . EVER . . . of that doggie house top cover will be an impossibility, unless ::::you make a midnight . . . wee hours . . . . visit to Sir Ians . :::: :::: ::::A sheet metal fabricator . . . air conditioner duct fabricator . . . would only have to make 2 precise ::::measurements of size and then two folds /bends plus a lip fold around and 4 spot welds on that lip to duplicate ::::that original unit. :::: :::: ::::BTW . . .MOST of the units I ever ran across had a small retainer chain attached to KEEP that cover unit ::::nearby. :::: :::: ::::Also my images detail precludes being able to differentiate as to whether the cover was aluminum ::::or steel. :::: :::: ::::BUT usually most steel units had louvers molded in for ventilation imstead of the 'lebenteen kazillion holes ::::your main cage assembly shows. :::: :::: ::::Guess that you will have to put a magnet to the present cage to see if the unit is steel or alum-i-ninny-yum-yum . ::::That effect is also replicable by a fabricator if he merely scribes lines for the hole locations and then uses his ::::pneumatic to punch the holes, of course, that would be the first thing to be done before the bends. :::: :::: ::::A co-operative Ian should be able to check his unit and pass on the hole pattern and hole count of the unit ::::which he has on his set. :::: :::: ::::With what I see of this photos cage, it appears to me to as NOT having a flat paint finish on it, but possibly ::::being made of aluminum and having a light anodizing and the use of a black analine dye then providing for ::::the colorization of the unit. :::: :::: ::::ALSO, I would thing that the possibilities of your picture tube not being in gassy low emisson state are ::::certainly GREATLY improved with its snmall kine size versus the set being a larger 21-24-27 . . .or Dios ::::Amanecio . . . a 30 inch round as was tried out on the old Hoffmans and Stromberg Carlsons. :::: :::: ::::Foto: . . . . . (Getting down, inside the doghouse) :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: ::::73's de Edd :::: :::: :::: ::::

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:

Ok Ian.... I I am waiting on a schematic...but it will be a week or so so if you could send that would be GREAT!! I have a schematic someone sent but it was way to blurry...I left email addy (click on my my name abouve to get) As for the dog house ..I have some sheet metal and am going to fabricate a cover..wont be that tought..i have pictures of the dog house I can use... Currently ..I am doing a cap job but it is tough.. The can have some high values and to make up for the 60mf @ 350V I am using two 33mf @ 450..and so forth so it is getting kind-a bulky under both chassis...Although the cans tested good still..I don't wana risk it...Also the 25mf @ 50V and 25mf @ 25v I don't have any ...Think Radio Shack has those values?

:Yes, it should be on the center tap. (mine is) However, this resistror is in the horizontal damping circut. Mine Was also bad. The tv worked with it(~15meg ohms) but the linearity was awful. Once replaced, the picture went back to normal.
:
:As for the HV cage, it is steel and flat black. I will try to get you more information (what do you need?)
:
:Do you need the schematic? I have the photofact, but would need to scan it though. (not untill friday night/weekend)
:
:Ian
:
:
::You are correct sir... My Tv is connected to the center tap between the two 500 ohm strips and at the bottom of the 5300 ohm strip....for a total of 5800 ohms...The very top 500 ohm section is not used...I do not have a schematic (waiting on one)..Could you verify for me? THANK YOU!!!
::
::
:::
:::

::: ::: ::: ::: :::Sir "George". . . . . ::: :::Now, are you ‘rat sure on that power reee-sistor., my documentation lists it as ::: ::: :::schematic symbol R98A . . . . Its being a 50 watt unit . . . and should have 4 straps / terminals ::: ::: sticking out of the conformal vitreous over coating. ::: ::: :::Matter of fact, I am looking at the photo now. ::: ::: :::In looking downwards from its top, seems like I can almost ? make out the short spacing between the ::: :::series connected (2).500 ohm sections and their 2 bulging convolutions . . then the looong spacing of the 5300 ohm ::: :::winding and then its end being at the very bottom. ::: ::: :::That shows up as an initial bulge out for the very top end terminal then two outward bulges between ::: ::: the 500 ohm sections and then the final bulge out at the very bottom for the last terminal. ::: ::: :::I did not trace down their circuit positions / functions, with its schematic using up all of two giant ::: ::: pages. But assuredly, they are hi power dropping resistors associated with the main power supply ::: :::or the next current hog being the Hoz deflection circuit, with the vertical circuit being next in line. ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: :::73's de Edd ::: ::: ::::

:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
::::Edd In regards to the power resitor..they are using a 500 and a 5300 section together for 5800 ohms eeek...I think i have some of these in my supply...THANKS for the info !!!
::::
::::
::::
:::::
:::::

::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: :::::Sir "George". . . . . . ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: :::::Looks like that power reee-sistor in question . . . and that is HEAV-EE on the power, located at the right :::::rear chassis corner of the doghouse, is a 50 watter unit that is 500--500--5300 omegas in value. ::::: ::::: :::::I think that the availability . . . EVER . . . of that doggie house top cover will be an impossibility, unless :::::you make a midnight . . . wee hours . . . . visit to Sir Ians . ::::: ::::: :::::A sheet metal fabricator . . . air conditioner duct fabricator . . . would only have to make 2 precise :::::measurements of size and then two folds /bends plus a lip fold around and 4 spot welds on that lip to duplicate :::::that original unit. ::::: ::::: :::::BTW . . .MOST of the units I ever ran across had a small retainer chain attached to KEEP that cover unit :::::nearby. ::::: ::::: :::::Also my images detail precludes being able to differentiate as to whether the cover was aluminum :::::or steel. ::::: ::::: :::::BUT usually most steel units had louvers molded in for ventilation imstead of the 'lebenteen kazillion holes :::::your main cage assembly shows. ::::: ::::: :::::Guess that you will have to put a magnet to the present cage to see if the unit is steel or alum-i-ninny-yum-yum . :::::That effect is also replicable by a fabricator if he merely scribes lines for the hole locations and then uses his :::::pneumatic to punch the holes, of course, that would be the first thing to be done before the bends. ::::: ::::: :::::A co-operative Ian should be able to check his unit and pass on the hole pattern and hole count of the unit :::::which he has on his set. ::::: ::::: :::::With what I see of this photos cage, it appears to me to as NOT having a flat paint finish on it, but possibly :::::being made of aluminum and having a light anodizing and the use of a black analine dye then providing for :::::the colorization of the unit. ::::: ::::: :::::ALSO, I would thing that the possibilities of your picture tube not being in gassy low emisson state are :::::certainly GREATLY improved with its snmall kine size versus the set being a larger 21-24-27 . . .or Dios :::::Amanecio . . . a 30 inch round as was tried out on the old Hoffmans and Stromberg Carlsons. ::::: ::::: :::::Foto: . . . . . (Getting down, inside the doghouse) ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: :::::73's de Edd ::::: ::::: ::::: :::::

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Opps here is email addy...Thanks

:Yes, it should be on the center tap. (mine is) However, this resistror is in the horizontal damping circut. Mine Was also bad. The tv worked with it(~15meg ohms) but the linearity was awful. Once replaced, the picture went back to normal.
:
:As for the HV cage, it is steel and flat black. I will try to get you more information (what do you need?)
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:Do you need the schematic? I have the photofact, but would need to scan it though. (not untill friday night/weekend)
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:Ian
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::You are correct sir... My Tv is connected to the center tap between the two 500 ohm strips and at the bottom of the 5300 ohm strip....for a total of 5800 ohms...The very top 500 ohm section is not used...I do not have a schematic (waiting on one)..Could you verify for me? THANK YOU!!!
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::: ::: ::: ::: :::Sir "George". . . . . ::: :::Now, are you ‘rat sure on that power reee-sistor., my documentation lists it as ::: ::: :::schematic symbol R98A . . . . Its being a 50 watt unit . . . and should have 4 straps / terminals ::: ::: sticking out of the conformal vitreous over coating. ::: ::: :::Matter of fact, I am looking at the photo now. ::: ::: :::In looking downwards from its top, seems like I can almost ? make out the short spacing between the ::: :::series connected (2).500 ohm sections and their 2 bulging convolutions . . then the looong spacing of the 5300 ohm ::: :::winding and then its end being at the very bottom. ::: ::: :::That shows up as an initial bulge out for the very top end terminal then two outward bulges between ::: ::: the 500 ohm sections and then the final bulge out at the very bottom for the last terminal. ::: ::: :::I did not trace down their circuit positions / functions, with its schematic using up all of two giant ::: ::: pages. But assuredly, they are hi power dropping resistors associated with the main power supply ::: :::or the next current hog being the Hoz deflection circuit, with the vertical circuit being next in line. ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: :::73's de Edd ::: ::: ::::

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::::Edd In regards to the power resitor..they are using a 500 and a 5300 section together for 5800 ohms eeek...I think i have some of these in my supply...THANKS for the info !!!
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::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: :::::Sir "George". . . . . . ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: :::::Looks like that power reee-sistor in question . . . and that is HEAV-EE on the power, located at the right :::::rear chassis corner of the doghouse, is a 50 watter unit that is 500--500--5300 omegas in value. ::::: ::::: :::::I think that the availability . . . EVER . . . of that doggie house top cover will be an impossibility, unless :::::you make a midnight . . . wee hours . . . . visit to Sir Ians . ::::: ::::: :::::A sheet metal fabricator . . . air conditioner duct fabricator . . . would only have to make 2 precise :::::measurements of size and then two folds /bends plus a lip fold around and 4 spot welds on that lip to duplicate :::::that original unit. ::::: ::::: :::::BTW . . .MOST of the units I ever ran across had a small retainer chain attached to KEEP that cover unit :::::nearby. ::::: ::::: :::::Also my images detail precludes being able to differentiate as to whether the cover was aluminum :::::or steel. ::::: ::::: :::::BUT usually most steel units had louvers molded in for ventilation imstead of the 'lebenteen kazillion holes :::::your main cage assembly shows. ::::: ::::: :::::Guess that you will have to put a magnet to the present cage to see if the unit is steel or alum-i-ninny-yum-yum . :::::That effect is also replicable by a fabricator if he merely scribes lines for the hole locations and then uses his :::::pneumatic to punch the holes, of course, that would be the first thing to be done before the bends. ::::: ::::: :::::A co-operative Ian should be able to check his unit and pass on the hole pattern and hole count of the unit :::::which he has on his set. ::::: ::::: :::::With what I see of this photos cage, it appears to me to as NOT having a flat paint finish on it, but possibly :::::being made of aluminum and having a light anodizing and the use of a black analine dye then providing for :::::the colorization of the unit. ::::: ::::: :::::ALSO, I would thing that the possibilities of your picture tube not being in gassy low emisson state are :::::certainly GREATLY improved with its snmall kine size versus the set being a larger 21-24-27 . . .or Dios :::::Amanecio . . . a 30 inch round as was tried out on the old Hoffmans and Stromberg Carlsons. ::::: ::::: :::::Foto: . . . . . (Getting down, inside the doghouse) ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: :::::73's de Edd ::::: ::::: ::::: :::::

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My main porcelain power resistor which uses 5,800 homs at 50 W...is bad ...I am looking for one or one that has the moveable ajuster ...Any help? Where to find?

:You are correct sir... My Tv is connected to the center tap between the two 500 ohm strips and at the bottom of the 5300 ohm strip....for a total of 5800 ohms...The very top 500 ohm section is not used...I do not have a schematic (waiting on one)..Could you verify for me? THANK YOU!!!
:
:
::
::

:: :: :: :: ::Sir "George". . . . . :: ::Now, are you ‘rat sure on that power reee-sistor., my documentation lists it as :: :: ::schematic symbol R98A . . . . Its being a 50 watt unit . . . and should have 4 straps / terminals :: :: sticking out of the conformal vitreous over coating. :: :: ::Matter of fact, I am looking at the photo now. :: :: ::In looking downwards from its top, seems like I can almost ? make out the short spacing between the :: ::series connected (2).500 ohm sections and their 2 bulging convolutions . . then the looong spacing of the 5300 ohm :: ::winding and then its end being at the very bottom. :: :: ::That shows up as an initial bulge out for the very top end terminal then two outward bulges between :: :: the 500 ohm sections and then the final bulge out at the very bottom for the last terminal. :: :: ::I did not trace down their circuit positions / functions, with its schematic using up all of two giant :: :: pages. But assuredly, they are hi power dropping resistors associated with the main power supply :: ::or the next current hog being the Hoz deflection circuit, with the vertical circuit being next in line. :: :: :: :: :: :: ::73's de Edd :: :: :::

::
::
::
::
::
::
:::Edd In regards to the power resitor..they are using a 500 and a 5300 section together for 5800 ohms eeek...I think i have some of these in my supply...THANKS for the info !!!
:::
:::
:::
::::
::::

:::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: ::::Sir "George". . . . . . :::: :::: :::: :::: ::::Looks like that power reee-sistor in question . . . and that is HEAV-EE on the power, located at the right ::::rear chassis corner of the doghouse, is a 50 watter unit that is 500--500--5300 omegas in value. :::: :::: ::::I think that the availability . . . EVER . . . of that doggie house top cover will be an impossibility, unless ::::you make a midnight . . . wee hours . . . . visit to Sir Ians . :::: :::: ::::A sheet metal fabricator . . . air conditioner duct fabricator . . . would only have to make 2 precise ::::measurements of size and then two folds /bends plus a lip fold around and 4 spot welds on that lip to duplicate ::::that original unit. :::: :::: ::::BTW . . .MOST of the units I ever ran across had a small retainer chain attached to KEEP that cover unit ::::nearby. :::: :::: ::::Also my images detail precludes being able to differentiate as to whether the cover was aluminum ::::or steel. :::: :::: ::::BUT usually most steel units had louvers molded in for ventilation imstead of the 'lebenteen kazillion holes ::::your main cage assembly shows. :::: :::: ::::Guess that you will have to put a magnet to the present cage to see if the unit is steel or alum-i-ninny-yum-yum . ::::That effect is also replicable by a fabricator if he merely scribes lines for the hole locations and then uses his ::::pneumatic to punch the holes, of course, that would be the first thing to be done before the bends. :::: :::: ::::A co-operative Ian should be able to check his unit and pass on the hole pattern and hole count of the unit ::::which he has on his set. :::: :::: ::::With what I see of this photos cage, it appears to me to as NOT having a flat paint finish on it, but possibly ::::being made of aluminum and having a light anodizing and the use of a black analine dye then providing for ::::the colorization of the unit. :::: :::: ::::ALSO, I would thing that the possibilities of your picture tube not being in gassy low emisson state are ::::certainly GREATLY improved with its snmall kine size versus the set being a larger 21-24-27 . . .or Dios ::::Amanecio . . . a 30 inch round as was tried out on the old Hoffmans and Stromberg Carlsons. :::: :::: ::::Foto: . . . . . (Getting down, inside the doghouse) :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: :::: ::::73's de Edd :::: :::: :::: ::::

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I need a large porcelain resistor at 5800 ohms or one that has a variable ajuster on it..I have these resistors but I am all out of the clamps to set resistance....I have tried to make the ajuster clamp..but never turns out very good...Any one have the resistor/ajuster as a junk item I could buy???

:My main porcelain power resistor which uses 5,800 homs at 50 W...is bad ...I am looking for one or one that has the moveable ajuster ...Any help? Where to find?
:
:
::You are correct sir... My Tv is connected to the center tap between the two 500 ohm strips and at the bottom of the 5300 ohm strip....for a total of 5800 ohms...The very top 500 ohm section is not used...I do not have a schematic (waiting on one)..Could you verify for me? THANK YOU!!!
::
::
:::
:::

::: ::: ::: ::: :::Sir "George". . . . . ::: :::Now, are you ‘rat sure on that power reee-sistor., my documentation lists it as ::: ::: :::schematic symbol R98A . . . . Its being a 50 watt unit . . . and should have 4 straps / terminals ::: ::: sticking out of the conformal vitreous over coating. ::: ::: :::Matter of fact, I am looking at the photo now. ::: ::: :::In looking downwards from its top, seems like I can almost ? make out the short spacing between the ::: :::series connected (2).500 ohm sections and their 2 bulging convolutions . . then the looong spacing of the 5300 ohm ::: :::winding and then its end being at the very bottom. ::: ::: :::That shows up as an initial bulge out for the very top end terminal then two outward bulges between ::: ::: the 500 ohm sections and then the final bulge out at the very bottom for the last terminal. ::: ::: :::I did not trace down their circuit positions / functions, with its schematic using up all of two giant ::: ::: pages. But assuredly, they are hi power dropping resistors associated with the main power supply ::: :::or the next current hog being the Hoz deflection circuit, with the vertical circuit being next in line. ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: :::73's de Edd ::: ::: ::::

:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
::::Edd In regards to the power resitor..they are using a 500 and a 5300 section together for 5800 ohms eeek...I think i have some of these in my supply...THANKS for the info !!!
::::
::::
::::
:::::
:::::

::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: :::::Sir "George". . . . . . ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: :::::Looks like that power reee-sistor in question . . . and that is HEAV-EE on the power, located at the right :::::rear chassis corner of the doghouse, is a 50 watter unit that is 500--500--5300 omegas in value. ::::: ::::: :::::I think that the availability . . . EVER . . . of that doggie house top cover will be an impossibility, unless :::::you make a midnight . . . wee hours . . . . visit to Sir Ians . ::::: ::::: :::::A sheet metal fabricator . . . air conditioner duct fabricator . . . would only have to make 2 precise :::::measurements of size and then two folds /bends plus a lip fold around and 4 spot welds on that lip to duplicate :::::that original unit. ::::: ::::: :::::BTW . . .MOST of the units I ever ran across had a small retainer chain attached to KEEP that cover unit :::::nearby. ::::: ::::: :::::Also my images detail precludes being able to differentiate as to whether the cover was aluminum :::::or steel. ::::: ::::: :::::BUT usually most steel units had louvers molded in for ventilation imstead of the 'lebenteen kazillion holes :::::your main cage assembly shows. ::::: ::::: :::::Guess that you will have to put a magnet to the present cage to see if the unit is steel or alum-i-ninny-yum-yum . :::::That effect is also replicable by a fabricator if he merely scribes lines for the hole locations and then uses his :::::pneumatic to punch the holes, of course, that would be the first thing to be done before the bends. ::::: ::::: :::::A co-operative Ian should be able to check his unit and pass on the hole pattern and hole count of the unit :::::which he has on his set. ::::: ::::: :::::With what I see of this photos cage, it appears to me to as NOT having a flat paint finish on it, but possibly :::::being made of aluminum and having a light anodizing and the use of a black analine dye then providing for :::::the colorization of the unit. ::::: ::::: :::::ALSO, I would thing that the possibilities of your picture tube not being in gassy low emisson state are :::::certainly GREATLY improved with its snmall kine size versus the set being a larger 21-24-27 . . .or Dios :::::Amanecio . . . a 30 inch round as was tried out on the old Hoffmans and Stromberg Carlsons. ::::: ::::: :::::Foto: . . . . . (Getting down, inside the doghouse) ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: :::::73's de Edd ::::: ::::: ::::: :::::

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Ok I know this is a radio forum..but my 1948 Admiral TV is simmular in restoration to a radio...I previously stated I need a cover for my high voltage power supply and a large wire wound resistor (5800 ohms ...original was bad) Soooo I got to thinking...I had a few 1980s old VCRs laying around that had metal covers that were ventalated with many holes...I took one VCR apart kept electronic for junk box and used a tin snips to cut out a cover for my TVs high voltage box....Bent it in a few places...and...dam thing looks original...As for the power resistor..I had large power resistors with open wire strip..but no way to set resistance...Soooo I took one of those circular capacitor holders..(the kind that are rivveted to radio chassis to hold large caps)..drilled a hole in part of it inserted a small bolt and used nut to squeez circle around resistor to hold it in place and get right resistance....AHHH HAHHH......Good god these early TVs have enough resistors and caps in them...Slow but rewarding restoration this is becomming....

:My main porcelain power resistor which uses 5,800 homs at 50 W...is bad ...I am looking for one or one that has the moveable ajuster ...Any help? Where to find?
:
:
::You are correct sir... My Tv is connected to the center tap between the two 500 ohm strips and at the bottom of the 5300 ohm strip....for a total of 5800 ohms...The very top 500 ohm section is not used...I do not have a schematic (waiting on one)..Could you verify for me? THANK YOU!!!
::
::
:::
:::

::: ::: ::: ::: :::Sir "George". . . . . ::: :::Now, are you ‘rat sure on that power reee-sistor., my documentation lists it as ::: ::: :::schematic symbol R98A . . . . Its being a 50 watt unit . . . and should have 4 straps / terminals ::: ::: sticking out of the conformal vitreous over coating. ::: ::: :::Matter of fact, I am looking at the photo now. ::: ::: :::In looking downwards from its top, seems like I can almost ? make out the short spacing between the ::: :::series connected (2).500 ohm sections and their 2 bulging convolutions . . then the looong spacing of the 5300 ohm ::: :::winding and then its end being at the very bottom. ::: ::: :::That shows up as an initial bulge out for the very top end terminal then two outward bulges between ::: ::: the 500 ohm sections and then the final bulge out at the very bottom for the last terminal. ::: ::: :::I did not trace down their circuit positions / functions, with its schematic using up all of two giant ::: ::: pages. But assuredly, they are hi power dropping resistors associated with the main power supply ::: :::or the next current hog being the Hoz deflection circuit, with the vertical circuit being next in line. ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: :::73's de Edd ::: ::: ::::

:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
::::Edd In regards to the power resitor..they are using a 500 and a 5300 section together for 5800 ohms eeek...I think i have some of these in my supply...THANKS for the info !!!
::::
::::
::::
:::::
:::::

::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: :::::Sir "George". . . . . . ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: :::::Looks like that power reee-sistor in question . . . and that is HEAV-EE on the power, located at the right :::::rear chassis corner of the doghouse, is a 50 watter unit that is 500--500--5300 omegas in value. ::::: ::::: :::::I think that the availability . . . EVER . . . of that doggie house top cover will be an impossibility, unless :::::you make a midnight . . . wee hours . . . . visit to Sir Ians . ::::: ::::: :::::A sheet metal fabricator . . . air conditioner duct fabricator . . . would only have to make 2 precise :::::measurements of size and then two folds /bends plus a lip fold around and 4 spot welds on that lip to duplicate :::::that original unit. ::::: ::::: :::::BTW . . .MOST of the units I ever ran across had a small retainer chain attached to KEEP that cover unit :::::nearby. ::::: ::::: :::::Also my images detail precludes being able to differentiate as to whether the cover was aluminum :::::or steel. ::::: ::::: :::::BUT usually most steel units had louvers molded in for ventilation imstead of the 'lebenteen kazillion holes :::::your main cage assembly shows. ::::: ::::: :::::Guess that you will have to put a magnet to the present cage to see if the unit is steel or alum-i-ninny-yum-yum . :::::That effect is also replicable by a fabricator if he merely scribes lines for the hole locations and then uses his :::::pneumatic to punch the holes, of course, that would be the first thing to be done before the bends. ::::: ::::: :::::A co-operative Ian should be able to check his unit and pass on the hole pattern and hole count of the unit :::::which he has on his set. ::::: ::::: :::::With what I see of this photos cage, it appears to me to as NOT having a flat paint finish on it, but possibly :::::being made of aluminum and having a light anodizing and the use of a black analine dye then providing for :::::the colorization of the unit. ::::: ::::: :::::ALSO, I would thing that the possibilities of your picture tube not being in gassy low emisson state are :::::certainly GREATLY improved with its snmall kine size versus the set being a larger 21-24-27 . . .or Dios :::::Amanecio . . . a 30 inch round as was tried out on the old Hoffmans and Stromberg Carlsons. ::::: ::::: :::::Foto: . . . . . (Getting down, inside the doghouse) ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: :::::73's de Edd ::::: ::::: ::::: :::::

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