I normally use a soldering iron and a wet rag to raze dents in wood during refinishing. But this time I have some deep dents in the vertical fluting (not sure of the term for the decorative trim) to the right of the speaker grille and due to the rarity of the set I don’t want to refinish it. I was planning on cleaning it, hitting the scratches with stain, spraying with anti-blush and top coating. I’m afraid if I steam them; a) the steam will not penetrate the lacquer or b) It will turn white. Plus the dents are pretty deep. I realize I can’t eliminate them this way but I would like to minimize them. I am open to suggestions. Also, if anyone knows anything about this I would appreciate the info. I haven’t been able to find a thing on it.

Brett,
I've seen/used putty sticks, but think they're actually wax. If wax or even soft putty, and a good color match, might try hand forming a patch. Experimenting with like products from different mfrs might prove beneficial too.

marv

:I normally use a soldering iron and a wet rag to raze dents in wood during refinishing. But this time I have some deep dents in the vertical fluting (not sure of the term for the decorative trim) to the right of the speaker grille and due to the rarity of the set I don’t want to refinish it. I was planning on cleaning it, hitting the scratches with stain, spraying with anti-blush and top coating. I’m afraid if I steam them; a) the steam will not penetrate the lacquer or b) It will turn white. Plus the dents are pretty deep. I realize I can’t eliminate them this way but I would like to minimize them. I am open to suggestions. Also, if anyone knows anything about this I would appreciate the info. I haven’t been able to find a thing on it.
:

Steam will whiten the lacquer, but you can go over the lacquer with more lacquer. You might also consider filling the dents with putty or plastic wood, and then blending in the area with appropriately colored oil paints (do not use oil paints under lacquer...they must be used last...you can use lacquer paints, but dry time will be very quick and hard to work with). I'm no artist myself, but my father works with model trains, and he did this to the top of my Crosley, where I couldn't patch veneer chips well, and where they'd be very visible. Now it just looks like part of the grain.

Another interesting thing to try (perhaps with a small junker set, first), is to completely enclose the radio (but the enclosure must not touch the radio's finish), with a dish of acetone inside of the enclosure. I'm not sure how this will work with whitening from steam, but it can make a dull finish lay down very nicely. Again, test with a small junker set, first. Make some white steam marks on it, too, and see how those come out. I've had good luck with this on freshly lacquered sets, though I have yet to try it with old lacquer.

T.

I'm not ready to go to putty yet. A very interesting idea with the acetone though. I got a batch of bad nozzles on some Mohawk awhile back. They splattered something terrible, looks like orange peel. I tried to lay it down with blush remover and rubbed it with rottenstone and mineral oil. If it happens again maybe I’ll try this.

:I'm not ready to go to putty yet. A very interesting idea with the acetone though. I got a batch of bad nozzles on some Mohawk awhile back. They splattered something terrible, looks like orange peel. I tried to lay it down with blush remover and rubbed it with rottenstone and mineral oil. If it happens again maybe I’ll try this.
:
:
:
:test
:
:

::I'm not ready to go to putty yet. A very interesting idea with the acetone though. I got a batch of bad nozzles on some Mohawk awhile back. They splattered something terrible, looks like orange peel. I tried to lay it down with blush remover and rubbed it with rottenstone and mineral oil. If it happens again maybe I’ll try this.
::
::
::
::test
::
::
:
:
:
:Sorry!I was having trouble replying , so I ran a test.
:
:Hi! Brett,
In the 1951 NRI radio course there was a procedure for filling imperfections on wood cabinets with a hot-knife and a lacquer stick. If you google (Lee Valley Tools) click on the link, then go to Woodworking, then Finishing and then Repair and Touch-up, you will find several products there. They have the lacquer sticks in several colors. They also have wax filler sticks which you rub on and then they harden.These are also available in several colors. Just another idea.
:Bob Masse
:
:

Brett,
Same problem for me on a couple cans of Mohawk. They make another brand "Belens" Got it at Rocklers. Nozzle appears to be same, but is more controlled, accurate, and a nice small fan spray.

marv

:I'm not ready to go to putty yet. A very interesting idea with the acetone though. I got a batch of bad nozzles on some Mohawk awhile back. They splattered something terrible, looks like orange peel. I tried to lay it down with blush remover and rubbed it with rottenstone and mineral oil. If it happens again maybe I’ll try this.
: