Sir Brett. . . . . I had interpreted your initial explanation / situation as having one MORE than the typical single bypass condenser pack as is used on the 19 or 89, and having a combination of up to 5 floating wires that had been clipped and left off from it. That would seem to me as needing the 26 schematic to compare against. BUT with you now having it back together, without that 26 schematic consultation, would tend to infer differently. If you are now having the unit powering up the filaments and the mere pilot lamp draw, maybe all is not so bad ? particularly if the t-former is not exhibiting any overheating tendencies after tube warm up. There are two aspects to the filaments however, the main tube lineup and ALSO the 80 tube . Seems as though,you are finding the 6.3 volt units working O.K.as you say, BUT there is also the 80 with its SEPARATE and isolated 5 v supply winding, so you need to observe its filament to see if it is glowing also. That might need a dark viewing area to see well if the unit is silvered up on top, or just waiting a bit to feel the eventual heat from its tube envelope. If that 5V winding is open, or that filament supply to an 80 socket conection is bad or the 80 is bad, you WOULD be getting NO B+ and the resultant no nuttin' syndrome. If after that search, and it resulting in 5V filament supply to the 80 . . .GREAT . . but, if not, you might power down and use ohmmic testing to see if the filament winding of the power transformer is giving a low ohms reading when measuring across that 5 V filament winding. Resultant upon your findings on the filament supply, then move on to testing the HV secondary winding of the PT-former. You need to then initially note that the centertap is NOT directly connected to ground, but is held up from ground by the 235 and 32 onm resistors #33 and #32. So, to avoid that metering pitfall, make one lead of your ohms metering being either direct to the HV centertap wiring connection or the - lead(s) of electrolytic #37 or #38. That will then enable you to test the resistance from the center tap of the high voltage secondary winding to either plate connection of the 80 socket to see of there is ~ 200 ohms to each there. Or, lift the ohmmeter leads and measure ~ 400 ohms from plate to plate of the 80. This collective info should then let us know the possibility of there just merely being the initial absence of B+ being created for the set. Standing by . . . . . 73's de Edd

:If the tubes and dial lamp works, the primary of your transformer is good. I would now check the B+ from the rectifier tube, and on up through the audio output transformer to the plate of the output tube. Don't overlook an open speaker or field coil if it has one.
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