Good to hear there is improvement. Chances are good that the radio should have the IF's peaked. Most production radios of that time really suffered in performance due to a lack of tuning the radio after it was assembled. The radio also needs to have a good ground plane for the antenna. Check that there is continuity between the grounding base of the antenna mount, and the engine ground. Be careful not to tighten the base too tight to the fender, as you may deform the fender by over-tightening the base mount.
Best location to tune up and trim the RF section is in the car attached to the antenna you are going to use. You can tune it to some extent on the bench, and get good performance too, but when it is in the car, it is attached to the antenna system that it will be using.
If you have the permeability tuned reciever (I forget what style that one used), you can tune the slugs for optimum performance. It gets time consuming, but the basic tuning principle is the same as that of capacitance tuning.
However, even at 50 years of age, unless something degraded severely on the frame that the slug threads though, or it got bent, or was never tuned very well in the begining, you may not need to do much more than simply peak the IF's for maximum signal at a single peak, and trim the antenna cap.
If all of that has ben done, and the signal remains weak, swap the second detector (most likely a 6SQ7) for another one that reads good, and if that does not correct it, try the first RF and IF stages for the same thing.
: Thanks guys(Denis & John) I found a bad screen droping resistor way out of specs! It's supposed to be 12K ohm and was actualy @ 23K ohm's. Replaced it and now the screenvoltage is correct and plate volts correct, But still seems weak reception. Rechecked the caps and re-aligned set.I am doing this with the antenna inside the shop, mabe in the car will give better results or am I missing somthing still??
: Good to hear there is improvement. Chances are good that the radio should have the IF's peaked. Most production radios of that time really suffered in performance due to a lack of tuning the radio after it was assembled. The radio also needs to have a good ground plane for the antenna. Check that there is continuity between the grounding base of the antenna mount, and the engine ground. Be careful not to tighten the base too tight to the fender, as you may deform the fender by over-tightening the base mount.
: Best location to tune up and trim the RF section is in the car attached to the antenna you are going to use. You can tune it to some extent on the bench, and get good performance too, but when it is in the car, it is attached to the antenna system that it will be using.
: If you have the permeability tuned reciever (I forget what style that one used), you can tune the slugs for optimum performance. It gets time consuming, but the basic tuning principle is the same as that of capacitance tuning.
: However, even at 50 years of age, unless something degraded severely on the frame that the slug threads though, or it got bent, or was never tuned very well in the begining, you may not need to do much more than simply peak the IF's for maximum signal at a single peak, and trim the antenna cap.
:
: If all of that has ben done, and the signal remains weak, swap the second detector (most likely a 6SQ7) for another one that reads good, and if that does not correct it, try the first RF and IF stages for the same thing.
: : Thanks guys(Denis & John) I found a bad screen droping resistor way out of specs! It's supposed to be 12K ohm and was actualy @ 23K ohm's. Replaced it and now the screenvoltage is correct and plate volts correct, But still seems weak reception. Rechecked the caps and re-aligned set.I am doing this with the antenna inside the shop, mabe in the car will give better results or am I missing somthing still??
OK, I will put it in the car and see what happens, Thanks again, Dennis.
: : Good to hear there is improvement. Chances are good that the radio should have the IF's peaked. Most production radios of that time really suffered in performance due to a lack of tuning the radio after it was assembled. The radio also needs to have a good ground plane for the antenna. Check that there is continuity between the grounding base of the antenna mount, and the engine ground. Be careful not to tighten the base too tight to the fender, as you may deform the fender by over-tightening the base mount.
: : Best location to tune up and trim the RF section is in the car attached to the antenna you are going to use. You can tune it to some extent on the bench, and get good performance too, but when it is in the car, it is attached to the antenna system that it will be using.
: : If you have the permeability tuned reciever (I forget what style that one used), you can tune the slugs for optimum performance. It gets time consuming, but the basic tuning principle is the same as that of capacitance tuning.
: : However, even at 50 years of age, unless something degraded severely on the frame that the slug threads though, or it got bent, or was never tuned very well in the begining, you may not need to do much more than simply peak the IF's for maximum signal at a single peak, and trim the antenna cap.
: :
: : If all of that has ben done, and the signal remains weak, swap the second detector (most likely a 6SQ7) for another one that reads good, and if that does not correct it, try the first RF and IF stages for the same thing.
:
: : : Thanks guys(Denis & John) I found a bad screen droping resistor way out of specs! It's supposed to be 12K ohm and was actualy @ 23K ohm's. Replaced it and now the screenvoltage is correct and plate volts correct, But still seems weak reception. Rechecked the caps and re-aligned set.I am doing this with the antenna inside the shop, mabe in the car will give better results or am I missing somthing still??
: OK, I will put it in the car and see what happens, Thanks again, Dennis.
: : : Good to hear there is improvement. Chances are good that the radio should have the IF's peaked. Most production radios of that time really suffered in performance due to a lack of tuning the radio after it was assembled. The radio also needs to have a good ground plane for the antenna. Check that there is continuity between the grounding base of the antenna mount, and the engine ground. Be careful not to tighten the base too tight to the fender, as you may deform the fender by over-tightening the base mount.
: : : Best location to tune up and trim the RF section is in the car attached to the antenna you are going to use. You can tune it to some extent on the bench, and get good performance too, but when it is in the car, it is attached to the antenna system that it will be using.
: : : If you have the permeability tuned reciever (I forget what style that one used), you can tune the slugs for optimum performance. It gets time consuming, but the basic tuning principle is the same as that of capacitance tuning.
: : : However, even at 50 years of age, unless something degraded severely on the frame that the slug threads though, or it got bent, or was never tuned very well in the begining, you may not need to do much more than simply peak the IF's for maximum signal at a single peak, and trim the antenna cap.
: : :
: : : If all of that has ben done, and the signal remains weak, swap the second detector (most likely a 6SQ7) for another one that reads good, and if that does not correct it, try the first RF and IF stages for the same thing.
: :
: : : : Thanks guys(Denis & John) I found a bad screen droping resistor way out of specs! It's supposed to be 12K ohm and was actualy @ 23K ohm's. Replaced it and now the screenvoltage is correct and plate volts correct, But still seems weak reception. Rechecked the caps and re-aligned set.I am doing this with the antenna inside the shop, mabe in the car will give better results or am I missing somthing still??
: : OK, I will put it in the car and see what happens, Thanks again, Dennis.