Sir Anthony . . . . .

I'll just bet that your referring to restring reference # 471 for your Silveringtone didn't help you doodley-squat, as its depicted tie in to the TUNING CONDENSERS PULLEY / DRUM is totally corrupted.

Looking at the photo of the frontal pic of your set model below, leads me to assume the tuning knob is either the far left or right one. And that with the use of incrementally increasing numbering of the dial scale, that the tuning condenser vanes are UNMESHING as you rotate its frontal pulley drum clockwise . .right ?

I am enclosing a blowup of that proper #471 with its correctly shown aspects but with the [A] box indicating useless interfacing of the dial cord to the TC pulley.

Aside . . .Another somewhat abnormal aspect is the placement of the dial cord tensioning spring ,where it is shown located.

I looked at several other Sears stringings and am just placing one of them over to the to the right to suggest a possibility.

Assuredly you must have a completely loosened or missing stringing or you could glean information from its prior, or even partial stringing.

I would say that this is a job for a length of kite / heavy string for a trial stringing to search out the potential trial probabilities or PITFALLS.

When you then have it solved, then, on with the REAL " high yankee dollah " dial cord, even to have prejudged the length of it needed from your trial stringing , drawn up its routing on paper for future re referencing, AND avoidance of ERRORS , on the real thing.

Let me now give you some TRUISMS and FACTOIDS:

You can usually visualize these operations out in your " minds eye " before actually initiating them.

1 . . . Turning the tuning knob to the right should result in the dial pointer moving to the right.

2 . . . Too few turns of dial cord around the 1/4 in tuning shaft will result in slipping, whereas too many turns will result in the
cord folding back over itself after several turns, and locking up or repetetively popping in and out of that lockup conditon .
The norm is 1 1/2 or 2 1/2 turns around.

Also, too loose of a dial cord tensioning spring will cause slippage. I usually shoot for an extenson of its length of 1/4 up to 1/2 of its initial closed coil loops condition.

3 . . . Here is the TRULY BLESSED effect . . .note that the TC drum rotates its 180 degrees and that there is dial cord placed around it from both directions .

Now one of those peripheral wraps will be a partial turn, while the other one will be well on towards being a full turn or more.
Also note the presence of the gap breaking up an outer surface of the drum to permit entry of either one or two tie downs of the dial cord. OR, with one cord end having its associative tensioning spring for the whole dial cord.

Or lastly, even a total encircling of the TC center shaft with the tensioining spring with each dial cord end, connected to outer spring loops.

YOURS just happens to have the spring being shown up near the dial pointer.

HOWEVER I would not etch in stone, that you couldn't move that spring position down to its typical location, in being tied to one end of a slot - metal tab in the tuning drums innards.

Caveat:

"Now one of those TC drum / pulley peripheral wraps will be a partial turn, while the other, will be well on towards being a full turn or more. "

If you get those turns transposed, you can find your dial tuning working beautifully, until that gap of the tuning drum aligns with the tuning shaft and the dial stops there, NOT being able to move further in that direction, because that extra partial turn of cord SHOULD have been THERE !

Transpose the two encircling dial cords degrees of wrap around to correct for that situation.

Come back if you need . . . further info refinement . . .