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:Sirs . . . .
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:Ohhhh . . . . . this is very distressing and disturbing to me, as I am just looking at some of my custom instrumentaton and test equipmemt that I built back in '68 thru the 70's.
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:When I clean off a micro layer of dust . . . .Woe is me . . . . I am not seeing any, checking, alligatoring, or flaking off, being as pristine as the day that I put it on.
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:The product . . . .Krylon Crystal Clear . . .Acrylic Lacquer . .or is that lakker or lacqure ?
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:Lets see now 10, 20, 30 , 40 + 1, that would be 41 years.
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:Plus after also having confirmed you having heated the chassis during cleanup, that was the other aspect in humid times, to apply the Lacquer to that cooled down / degreased /pasteurized / homogenized / sterilized chassis in its only so slightly warm state.
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:Baaaaaack to the KNOBS, Sir Peter, still the little boo-boos of scraped off finish seem to remain on the photos of the reworking of the reworked knobs.
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:Possibly . . . you just spritzed a light stain coating over the flaws ?
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:Can you try one more time, using one WIERD procedure that I use ?
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:First, after looking at the colorization of those knobs , I would say that calls for a base coloring agent used . .in the form of a small tube of BURNT UMBER oil colors (NOT Acrylic).
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:Then the use of the ever so common mineral spirits, in the eee-conomy Star or Crown gallon container, and that brand variance being whether you went to the Homeless Despot or Lowes(T).
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:Put your match head /corn kernel ? sized blob of burnt umber out on your palette, and take the tube back and get your money back . . .Wrong color !
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:Pick out a problem area and get thru the lacquer overcoating to get down to the base wood where the finish was initially chipped / eroded down to.
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:Then I use a common round toothpick and break in half to have its full center width and then place in mouth and salivate until moistened and slightly softened and then rotate slowly and lightly chew on (frontal teeth) to separate its fibers for about 1/4 in inwards from the end. (Former center)
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:This is akin to 'lebenteenth world countries" ( they do be mo' pore' than "thud world countries"), in that manner, where they can make a disposable toothbrush from a wooden stick.(Of course, they can be reused, but boy, do they get STRONG !)
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:You then take the already damp wooden brush and soak in mineral spirits.
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:(Make mental note . . .do not put back into mouth, or else, experience one WIERD taste and one funny looking mouth.)
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:You take the palette area and have multiple drops of thinner on a second area and lightly touch the wooden brush to the burnt umber and start transferring a little to start making that clear puddle approaching a slightly lighter coloring than that needed on the knob, but transfer light test deposits to the knob as you are gradually confirming your approach to a proper blended match.
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:You should finally hit it and then work the "brush" around in vertical stabbing / mottling movements to blend.
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:Let it completely dry and lightly spritz with light lacquer overspray. Confirm if there is color shift after that dries, if so, U have to make adjustment on the "puddle" for its applied color depth on the second knob, by the 3rd knob it should be the right mix to go back and strip and rework the 1st knob, possibly the second if it also didn't quite have that final degree of perfect match.
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:Grille cloth . . . I once found a mans XXL shirt made in the Honduras that was just about the colorizaton of that grille cloth of yours, along with the proper porosity, such that I used it for ~6 grill cloths thru the years.
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:Priced at $1.96 at a thrift store, but on sale on WEDNESDAY for 1/2 price.
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:That top right corner light reflecton is confirming a perfectly uniform matte finish sheen on the frontal cabinet panel !
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:. . . .73's de Edd
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:Los Knobbos: : : : : : : : : :

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