Hello All,
I have replaced all the paper and electrolytic capacitors in this radio. The only problem I see is the that the read wafer is cracked in half on the band switch because the Beam-0-scope wires have no strain relief. The two halves stay together due to pulling from components. So the switch does work.
The amplifier works well. I didn't test the 12SA7 Frequency Converter or the 12SQ7 detector tube. I have a "parts" chassis with a completely broken rear wafer on the band switch. I Borrowed those tubes from this set but they could be defective as well. I'll make a check of voltages next to see of there are any defective resistors.
I hope I have it in the MANUAL or DIAL tuning mode. I believe this next to the off button. The one at the other end is the PHONO button. The main amplifier works fine.

Here's another I should be able to find the answer to quick but I still need coaching.

Thanks,

Dave

Hello Again,
I meant to say "rear wafer". But for some reason I typed a "d" instead of an "r". Sorry about that. Somehow an extra "the" got into that sentence. Sorry about that too.
I will check voltages.

Thanks,

Dave
:Hello All,
: I have replaced all the paper and electrolytic capacitors in this radio. The only problem I see is the that the read wafer is cracked in half on the band switch because the Beam-0-scope wires have no strain relief. The two halves stay together due to pulling from components. So the switch does work.
: The amplifier works well. I didn't test the 12SA7 Frequency Converter or the 12SQ7 detector tube. I have a "parts" chassis with a completely broken rear wafer on the band switch. I Borrowed those tubes from this set but they could be defective as well. I'll make a check of voltages next to see of there are any defective resistors.
: I hope I have it in the MANUAL or DIAL tuning mode. I believe this next to the off button. The one at the other end is the PHONO button. The main amplifier works fine.
:
:Here's another I should be able to find the answer to quick but I still need coaching.
:
:Thanks,
:
:Dave
:

Hello Again,
Here are some voltages:

6SA7

1: 0, 2:0, 3: 144.5 4: 99, 5: -7.47 (oscillator must be running_)
6: 0, 7: 0, 8. -.8

6SQ7
1: 0, 2: .5, 3: 0, 4: .32, 5: .004, 6: 69.7, 7: 0, 8: 0

These are DC voltages.

More voltages later.

Thanks,

Dave
:Hello Again,
:I meant to say "rear wafer". But for some reason I typed a "d" instead of an "r". Sorry about that. Somehow an extra "the" got into that sentence. Sorry about that too.
: I will check voltages.
:
:Thanks,
:
:Dave
::Hello All,
:: I have replaced all the paper and electrolytic capacitors in this radio. The only problem I see is the that the read wafer is cracked in half on the band switch because the Beam-0-scope wires have no strain relief. The two halves stay together due to pulling from components. So the switch does work.
:: The amplifier works well. I didn't test the 12SA7 Frequency Converter or the 12SQ7 detector tube. I have a "parts" chassis with a completely broken rear wafer on the band switch. I Borrowed those tubes from this set but they could be defective as well. I'll make a check of voltages next to see of there are any defective resistors.
:: I hope I have it in the MANUAL or DIAL tuning mode. I believe this next to the off button. The one at the other end is the PHONO button. The main amplifier works fine.
::
::Here's another I should be able to find the answer to quick but I still need coaching.
::
::Thanks,
::
::Dave
::
:

Hello Again,
The oscillator is definitely working. When I put a transistor radio near this radio I can tune Short wave on it (the transistor radio). So the 6SA7 is working. Now I'll check the 12SK7 IF amp voltages.

12SK7

1: 0, 2: 0, 3: 2.5, 4: -1.3, 5: 2.5, 6: 98.7, 7: 0, 8: 146.3

This is very odd. It should work but it doesn't. Something must be open somewhere. But where?

Thanks,

Dave
:Hello Again,
: Here are some voltages:
:
:6SA7
:
:1: 0, 2:0, 3: 144.5 4: 99, 5: -7.47 (oscillator must be running_)
:6: 0, 7: 0, 8. -.8
:
:
:6SQ7
:1: 0, 2: .5, 3: 0, 4: .32, 5: .004, 6: 69.7, 7: 0, 8: 0
:
:These are DC voltages.
:
:More voltages later.
:
:
:Thanks,
:
:Dave
::Hello Again,
::I meant to say "rear wafer". But for some reason I typed a "d" instead of an "r". Sorry about that. Somehow an extra "the" got into that sentence. Sorry about that too.
:: I will check voltages.
::
::Thanks,
::
::Dave
:::Hello All,
::: I have replaced all the paper and electrolytic capacitors in this radio. The only problem I see is the that the read wafer is cracked in half on the band switch because the Beam-0-scope wires have no strain relief. The two halves stay together due to pulling from components. So the switch does work.
::: The amplifier works well. I didn't test the 12SA7 Frequency Converter or the 12SQ7 detector tube. I have a "parts" chassis with a completely broken rear wafer on the band switch. I Borrowed those tubes from this set but they could be defective as well. I'll make a check of voltages next to see of there are any defective resistors.
::: I hope I have it in the MANUAL or DIAL tuning mode. I believe this next to the off button. The one at the other end is the PHONO button. The main amplifier works fine.
:::
:::Here's another I should be able to find the answer to quick but I still need coaching.
:::
:::Thanks,
:::
:::Dave
:::
::
:

Hello Again,
Yes, I did hear short wave. Yes, it is a problem with the band switch. How do I glue it back together. It's just snapped in two places. It's not a half. It's less than half affecting only one side of the switch. I'm not talking about front and back sides. I'm talking about left and right sides. But there is no right and left in the switch. One part is attached because it didn't snap at the bolts. It looks like it may be able to be glued. Do I use JB Weld? I have never had much success with super glue. Whatever I try to glue with it falls right off. But maybe it can work here.

Thanks,

Dave

:Hello Again,
: The oscillator is definitely working. When I put a transistor radio near this radio I can tune Short wave on it (the transistor radio). So the 6SA7 is working. Now I'll check the 12SK7 IF amp voltages.
:
:12SK7
:
:1: 0, 2: 0, 3: 2.5, 4: -1.3, 5: 2.5, 6: 98.7, 7: 0, 8: 146.3
:
:This is very odd. It should work but it doesn't. Something must be open somewhere. But where?
:
:Thanks,
:
:Dave
::Hello Again,
:: Here are some voltages:
::
::6SA7
::
::1: 0, 2:0, 3: 144.5 4: 99, 5: -7.47 (oscillator must be running_)
::6: 0, 7: 0, 8. -.8
::
::
::6SQ7
::1: 0, 2: .5, 3: 0, 4: .32, 5: .004, 6: 69.7, 7: 0, 8: 0
::
::These are DC voltages.
::
::More voltages later.
::
::
::Thanks,
::
::Dave
:::Hello Again,
:::I meant to say "rear wafer". But for some reason I typed a "d" instead of an "r". Sorry about that. Somehow an extra "the" got into that sentence. Sorry about that too.
::: I will check voltages.
:::
:::Thanks,
:::
:::Dave
::::Hello All,
:::: I have replaced all the paper and electrolytic capacitors in this radio. The only problem I see is the that the read wafer is cracked in half on the band switch because the Beam-0-scope wires have no strain relief. The two halves stay together due to pulling from components. So the switch does work.
:::: The amplifier works well. I didn't test the 12SA7 Frequency Converter or the 12SQ7 detector tube. I have a "parts" chassis with a completely broken rear wafer on the band switch. I Borrowed those tubes from this set but they could be defective as well. I'll make a check of voltages next to see of there are any defective resistors.
:::: I hope I have it in the MANUAL or DIAL tuning mode. I believe this next to the off button. The one at the other end is the PHONO button. The main amplifier works fine.
::::
::::Here's another I should be able to find the answer to quick but I still need coaching.
::::
::::Thanks,
::::
::::Dave
::::
:::
::
:

Dave:

Try Gorilla Glue. Use very little on each part with a tooth pick. This glue does expand when it starts to dry. Give it a good 24 hours to set up good. Make sure both parts are fitting well together.

Warren,
Both parts do fit together well. But when the band switch is turned it pulls the section away a little bit. That's where it loses contact.
Ok, I'll find and use Gorilla Glue.

Thanks,

Dave
:Dave:
:
: Try Gorilla Glue. Use very little on each part with a tooth pick. This glue does expand when it starts to dry. Give it a good 24 hours to set up good. Make sure both parts are fitting well together.
:

Warren,
Using some bus (buss?) wire and a soldering iron, I was able to hold the broken piece of the broken wafer on and the radio works fine. Applying tension from a terminal (which was conveniently connected to the chassis anyway, I wrapped it around the terminal, and then while pulling tight (taught?), I made a loop around the bolt, and then, still pulling, brought it back to the terminal. This is enough pressure to hold on one side of the broken section. I soldered the wire to the terminal. For the other side it was a similar situation but I had to use a piece of insulation where it went over the bolt, to prevent attaching the terminal to the chassis. The piece is attached, the radio is a "blaster".
All it needs now is a new line cord and a "de-squeak" of the tuning mechanism.

I think I'm all set on the band switch. Before using the wire I tried some "super" glue, held the joints in place for about 2 minutes, let go and it fell right off, as usual. Super Glue is completely useless and far from super in my experience. It's like putting a drop of water on something. Very smelly water! Maybe sometime I'll try Gorilla glue.

Thanks,

Dave
:Warren,
: Both parts do fit together well. But when the band switch is turned it pulls the section away a little bit. That's where it loses contact.
: Ok, I'll find and use Gorilla Glue.
:
:Thanks,
:
:Dave
::Dave:
::
:: Try Gorilla Glue. Use very little on each part with a tooth pick. This glue does expand when it starts to dry. Give it a good 24 hours to set up good. Make sure both parts are fitting well together.
::
:

Glad to hear you got inventive. That's good thinking being able to work with what you have.