Does anyone have a "spare" meter for the above unit. Its 200uA FS, 1000 ohms. Willing to pay resonable price. I'm looking at a meter used on a VTVM which has same characteristics but demensions not quite the same and scale would have to be reproduced and proportioned. Ive checked all precision resistors and they are OK, checked all pots and ditto, replaced all others 1/2w resistors with 5% metal film and a 1w with 5% WW. PL

:Does anyone have a "spare" meter for the above unit. Its 200uA FS, 1000 ohms. Willing to pay resonable price. I'm looking at a meter used on a VTVM which has same characteristics but demensions not quite the same and scale would have to be reproduced and proportioned. Ive checked all precision resistors and they are OK, checked all pots and ditto, replaced all others 1/2w resistors with 5% metal film and a 1w with 5% WW. PL
:Let me see if i get it !! You want a meter[ that tells u if a tube is bad or good ??] I have one on a Sencore tube tester. Will see if it fits the specifications

4 1/2" meters are getting hard to find, if this is what you have.
A continuity check across the meter terminals may show continuity as some milliammeters use a shunt in parellel to the meter armature winding.
If one can't be had, I'd try repairing the one that you have.
It is a lot like wrist-watch repair (it is in fact a tiny electric motor). Be gentle, sit steady and comfortably and use a magnifier to see. I've been both lucky and unlucky with them. It may be a poor connection at the fulcrum pivot or other simple repair. I have yet to find an open winding in one.

Walt, the meter front coil spring had a kink in it and would bend back over itself when current applied, reading were erratic, total loss. Was hoping some one may have had one. Have found that the meter on Heathkit VTVM electrically the same (200uA FS, 1000 ohms) but 1/8" narrower and 6/16" shorter. So far meter sacale seem to be exact as far as spread (degrees of swing). Meter face scales were removed and placed in scanner, printed out and compared on light box. PL

: 4 1/2" meters are getting hard to find, if this is what you have.
: A continuity check across the meter terminals may show continuity as some milliammeters use a shunt in parellel to the meter armature winding.
: If one can't be had, I'd try repairing the one that you have.
: It is a lot like wrist-watch repair (it is in fact a tiny electric motor). Be gentle, sit steady and comfortably and use a magnifier to see. I've been both lucky and unlucky with them. It may be a poor connection at the fulcrum pivot or other simple repair. I have yet to find an open winding in one.
:

Or you could try something like this.

http://www.gvtc.com/~edengel/TV7Meter.htm

I have considered a digital replacement of failed S-meters (there was an article about adding a digital S-meter to a Hallicrafters S-38) and test meters). I've put those projects on the backburner while I thought about it.
A kinked hairspring would be in the jewellers realm, you may want to show what you have to one and get suggestions. He may have an appropriate replacement hairspring and the tools to replace it with. Does your meter have a hairspring on the front and rear of the armature so he could use the good one as a reference?

Walt, I don't think it would be worth the effort. A new meter would be $190, jeweler, if he had comprable spring would most likely charge at least half that and then meter accuracy not insured. The other questions is yes, there is a rear spring that appears OK. I'm working on replacing with meter from VTVM. Have scan both scales and they match pretty well just have to move axis point a little. PL

: I have considered a digital replacement of failed S-meters (there was an article about adding a digital S-meter to a Hallicrafters S-38) and test meters). I've put those projects on the backburner while I thought about it.
: A kinked hairspring would be in the jewellers realm, you may want to show what you have to one and get suggestions. He may have an appropriate replacement hairspring and the tools to replace it with. Does your meter have a hairspring on the front and rear of the armature so he could use the good one as a reference?
:

:Walt, I don't think it would be worth the effort. A new meter would be $190, jeweler, if he had comprable spring would most likely charge at least half that and then meter accuracy not insured. The other questions is yes, there is a rear spring that appears OK. I'm working on replacing with meter from VTVM. Have scan both scales and they match pretty well just have to move axis point a little. PL
:
:: I have considered a digital replacement of failed S-meters (there was an article about adding a digital S-meter to a Hallicrafters S-38) and test meters). I've put those projects on the backburner while I thought about it.
:: A kinked hairspring would be in the jewellers realm, you may want to show what you have to one and get suggestions. He may have an appropriate replacement hairspring and the tools to replace it with. Does your meter have a hairspring on the front and rear of the armature so he could use the good one as a reference?
::
:
;
;
:Hi! PL
I bought a Hickok 600A for $5.00 a couple of
years ago and it neeeded a meter and tubes etc.Well
$350.00 later I had it repaired and calibrated
which I did myself.I got the meter from
Alltubetesters.com and it cost about $200.00 with
the shipping.When I got done I had a very good tube
tester that I don't have to worry about and it is
worth everything I have in it.Since an Eico 667 is
a very good tube tester,it is worth spending the
money on a new meter.Keep the receipt as this will
increase the value of the tester.If the old meter
lasted 60yrs. , how long will the new one last?
Good Luck! Bob Masse
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