Got some very useful info. on rooftop 'long wire' antennas (thanks Walt), but would really appreciate feedback on a couple of 'left field' questions if I may. Our roof is going to be reshingled VERY shortly, and I was wondering whether it would make any sense to string a straight insulated wire along the roof ridge, with the 'cap' shingles being laid down over the top. We live in a single-story house with a peaked roof and a long, uninterrupted roof ridge.

Where the wire comes out at the end, I could add a lightning arrestor (if needed), and/or a junction box which includes a length of coax or other cable which could lead into the radio. There may be various electronic reasons why this might not work, but it seems plausible. I appreciate that one could not then maintain or alter the antenna once it was covered...

Also, I wonder if one could tap directly into one's eavestroughs; ours are aluminum, and resemble the material multi-array antennas are made from. The eavestrough run around the house could thus work as a very long antenna; I understand that 90 degree changes in direction in the system might cause wave cancellation at various points. Just a thought, which seems plausible but probably has practical and theoretical constraints

Have a great day and again, thanks for the feedback.

I think the concensus is that a longwire is probably the best configuration. But, some people claim good results with metal gutters, slinkies, house wiring (isolated with a cap), telephone wiring, you name it. I think you should just try whatever appeals to you, and see what the results are. For SWL, I think antennas are as much an art as a science.

Choosing a SWL antenna design is akin to picking out fishing lures - most people go by the way they look.
Doug

:Got some very useful info. on rooftop 'long wire' antennas (thanks Walt), but would really appreciate feedback on a couple of 'left field' questions if I may. Our roof is going to be reshingled VERY shortly, and I was wondering whether it would make any sense to string a straight insulated wire along the roof ridge, with the 'cap' shingles being laid down over the top. We live in a single-story house with a peaked roof and a long, uninterrupted roof ridge.
:
:Where the wire comes out at the end, I could add a lightning arrestor (if needed), and/or a junction box which includes a length of coax or other cable which could lead into the radio. There may be various electronic reasons why this might not work, but it seems plausible. I appreciate that one could not then maintain or alter the antenna once it was covered...
:
:Also, I wonder if one could tap directly into one's eavestroughs; ours are aluminum, and resemble the material multi-array antennas are made from. The eavestrough run around the house could thus work as a very long antenna; I understand that 90 degree changes in direction in the system might cause wave cancellation at various points. Just a thought, which seems plausible but probably has practical and theoretical constraints
:
:Have a great day and again, thanks for the feedback.

Thanks. One question I have I guess is: if I put an insulated wire and that wire is covered with a single layer of 'roof ridge' asphalt shingles, would the wire still function electronically as an antenna or would the shingles (or the wood in the roof/attic beams, interfere in any way?

An art, as you say. I'm going to try the eavestrough route as a first experiment and see what happens.

:I think the concensus is that a longwire is probably the best configuration. But, some people claim good results with metal gutters, slinkies, house wiring (isolated with a cap), telephone wiring, you name it. I think you should just try whatever appeals to you, and see what the results are. For SWL, I think antennas are as much an art as a science.
:
:Choosing a SWL antenna design is akin to picking out fishing lures - most people go by the way they look.
:Doug
:
::Got some very useful info. on rooftop 'long wire' antennas (thanks Walt), but would really appreciate feedback on a couple of 'left field' questions if I may. Our roof is going to be reshingled VERY shortly, and I was wondering whether it would make any sense to string a straight insulated wire along the roof ridge, with the 'cap' shingles being laid down over the top. We live in a single-story house with a peaked roof and a long, uninterrupted roof ridge.
::
::Where the wire comes out at the end, I could add a lightning arrestor (if needed), and/or a junction box which includes a length of coax or other cable which could lead into the radio. There may be various electronic reasons why this might not work, but it seems plausible. I appreciate that one could not then maintain or alter the antenna once it was covered...
::
::Also, I wonder if one could tap directly into one's eavestroughs; ours are aluminum, and resemble the material multi-array antennas are made from. The eavestrough run around the house could thus work as a very long antenna; I understand that 90 degree changes in direction in the system might cause wave cancellation at various points. Just a thought, which seems plausible but probably has practical and theoretical constraints
::
::Have a great day and again, thanks for the feedback.

No, ideally the wire should not touch shingles, wood, or anything else. That is why egg-type insulators are used to suspend a longwire antenna from each end.

An insulated wire won't help (or hurt). Might as well use a bare wire, and suspend it between insulators. That is the normal practice.

Now, you can pretty do as you please. And, you might be satisfied with the results. But, conventional wisdom is to use a longwire antenna, suspended between egg-type insulators.

Probably not much more to be said, one way or the other.
Doug

:One question I have I guess is: if I put an insulated wire and that wire is covered with a single layer of 'roof ridge' asphalt shingles, would the wire still function electronically as an antenna or would the shingles (or the wood in the roof/attic beams, interfere in any way?
:
:

Thanks, Doug. I'll potter around with various options and let folk know what works/what doesn't when I start stringing wires. I'll avoid burying a long wire antenna under the shingles...

Cheers,

Leslie

:No, ideally the wire should not touch shingles, wood, or anything else. That is why egg-type insulators are used to suspend a longwire antenna from each end.
:
:An insulated wire won't help (or hurt). Might as well use a bare wire, and suspend it between insulators. That is the normal practice.
:
:Now, you can pretty do as you please. And, you might be satisfied with the results. But, conventional wisdom is to use a longwire antenna, suspended between egg-type insulators.
:
:Probably not much more to be said, one way or the other.
:Doug
:
::One question I have I guess is: if I put an insulated wire and that wire is covered with a single layer of 'roof ridge' asphalt shingles, would the wire still function electronically as an antenna or would the shingles (or the wood in the roof/attic beams, interfere in any way?
::
::

There are known 'Best Practice' methods for building antennas, but there is a lot to be said for 'Experimenting' also. The ARRL has excellent antenna books and the public library probably has them. An antenna that is good for transmitting is also likely good for reception.
I have a 'random length' longwire in the attic that I use for AM/SW DXing. It runs in an East/West direction. Sensitivity isn't a problem (it can overload a cheap receiver) but there is a lot of electrical noise/interference at times from all of the digital/wireless devices in the neighborhood.