Hi,

This is a topic on which I read a lot around the WEB and am in some ways more confused than ever :o( I basically have a workshop full of vintage AM/SW receivers and tuners: eg. a Bogen R502, a Crosley Morale Radio, a Hallicrafters S-20R, an Echophone EC-2 etc. I've strung up an insulated long wire external antenna in the basement, which works (kind of).

As it turns out, our roof needs redoing, so I'll soon have an opportunity to get up there. I thought it might be time to upgrade. I've read about 'slinky' aerials, telescoping whips, long wire antenna's with baluns and co-ax in the middle. I've also seen 'Godar' whip antennas/'Jumbo Stick' antennas advertised, as well as various powered, tuned units (e.g. the Kaito Amplified active antennas) which can be located inside (in a cabinet) which cost around $100.

Which to choose? I'd thought of running 85' of insulated wire in one direction just below the sofits of the house (poised on insulators) or running just above the eavestroughs--no changes of wire direction. Or doing the same thing with a slinky; it looks as though there may be a chance of running a wire or slinky along the roof ridge, strung between very short poles. Though we've got plenty of trees here, the wife won't want eyesore wires stretched from the house (can't say a I blame her). I know that a tower with a rotatable multi-band yagi would be ideal, but I'd rather hook up something cheap and cheeful. A powered tunable antenna would be OK if they really WILL work in basements.

As always, many thanks.

You can forget the Yagi. The wavelengths of the AM bands that you're interested are too long for most any kind of tuned antenna.

I use a longwire antenna supported by egg-type insulators at the ends. The higher and longer the better. You can use solid, bare copper or aluminum wire of sufficient strength for the span.
Doug

:Hi,
:
:This is a topic on which I read a lot around the WEB and am in some ways more confused than ever :o( I basically have a workshop full of vintage AM/SW receivers and tuners: eg. a Bogen R502, a Crosley Morale Radio, a Hallicrafters S-20R, an Echophone EC-2 etc. I've strung up an insulated long wire external antenna in the basement, which works (kind of).
:
:As it turns out, our roof needs redoing, so I'll soon have an opportunity to get up there. I thought it might be time to upgrade. I've read about 'slinky' aerials, telescoping whips, long wire antenna's with baluns and co-ax in the middle. I've also seen 'Godar' whip antennas/'Jumbo Stick' antennas advertised, as well as various powered, tuned units (e.g. the Kaito Amplified active antennas) which can be located inside (in a cabinet) which cost around $100.
:
:Which to choose? I'd thought of running 85' of insulated wire in one direction just below the sofits of the house (poised on insulators) or running just above the eavestroughs--no changes of wire direction. Or doing the same thing with a slinky; it looks as though there may be a chance of running a wire or slinky along the roof ridge, strung between very short poles. Though we've got plenty of trees here, the wife won't want eyesore wires stretched from the house (can't say a I blame her). I know that a tower with a rotatable multi-band yagi would be ideal, but I'd rather hook up something cheap and cheeful. A powered tunable antenna would be OK if they really WILL work in basements.
:
:As always, many thanks.

The roof would be much better place than a basement. String a long-wire at the peak and down the side of the house to the window (inverted L).
The attic is good too and the antenna wire won't be affected by weather.
An external un-amplified tuner is good for reducing adjacent noise and interference. Antenna amplifiers just add their own overloading, noise and images. The RF/IF amp stages in the set should be all the amplification that you need. The AVC circuit will cut back the added amplification, making an external device near useless.
Communications receivers usually have an antenna trimmer adjustment on the front panel that 'tunes' the antenna for best signal.

:Hi Walt,

Thanks for that information. A couple of 'left field' questions if I may. Our roof is going to be reshingled shortly, and I was wondering whether it would make any sense to string a straight insulated wire along the roof ridge, with the 'cap' shingles being laid down over the top. We live in a single-story house with a peaked roof and a long, uninterrupted roof ridge.

Where the wire comes out at the end, I could add a lightning arrestor (if needed), and/or a junction box which includes a length of coax or other cable which could lead into the radio. There may be various electronic reasons why this might not work, but it seems plausible. I appreciate that one could not then maintain or alter the antenna once it was covered...

Also, I wonder if one could tap directly into one's eavestroughs; ours are aluminum, and resemble the material multi-array antennas are made from. The eavestrough run around the house could thus work as a very long antenna; I understand that 90 degree changes in direction in the system might cause wave cancellation at various points. Just a thought, which seems plausible but probably has practical and theoretical constraints.

Have a great Sunday,

Leslie

T The roof would be much better place than a basement. String a long-wire at the peak and down the side of the house to the window (inverted L).
: The attic is good too and the antenna wire won't be affected by weather.
: An external un-amplified tuner is good for reducing adjacent noise and interference. Antenna amplifiers just add their own overloading, noise and images. The RF/IF amp stages in the set should be all the amplification that you need. The AVC circuit will cut back the added amplification, making an external device near useless.
: Communications receivers usually have an antenna trimmer adjustment on the front panel that 'tunes' the antenna for best signal.