Thanks,

Dave

Thanks,

Dave
:I really like those Westinghouse radios. I have never had one though. What size speaker does it use? I have a line here on some brand new Sony speakers That come in the size of 4,5, and 6 inch. 6 ohm for only $3.00 They are of very good quality. The magnet is round but not very big. If you like I could send you a picture of one in 5 inch. See if that is what you are looking for. My E-Mail is in this posting.

Don't know what you are up against but epoxy will hold a speaker in place.

Norm

:Oh .. Okay .. Guess you just need to be inventive. Maybe the use of a cut coffee can for a mounting, solder to speaker frame. I have done that for like mounting an output transformer. Easy to make to shape and put the holes where needed ..

Once had an RCA in the same situation, I merely concentrated on the initial making of a hole in a piece of oak to fit to the rear round magnet assembly on my new 5 inch speaker., then temp tacked it in place with hot glue and then concentrated on the marking on and drawing the required square profile on the block of wood. I then replicated the original units square magnet housing dimensions with multiple saw cuts. I then dry fitted to the chassis and then pulled the unit from the hot glue bonding and then re-epoxied into the cavity. A final locating of the mount holes completed the job. And , in actuality, the precise locating and positioning of those two mounting holes took me the most time. Worked out fine, I even used #1405 Krylon Dull Aluminum spray paint to make the wood look like the original metal. 73's de Edd

H-126 speaker profile:

Thanks,

Dave
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:

: : : : : : : : : : : :Once had an RCA in the same situation, I merely concentrated on the initial making of a hole in a piece of oak :to fit to the rear round magnet assembly on my new 5 inch speaker., then temp tacked it in place with hot : glue and then concentrated on the marking on and drawing the required square profile on the block of wood. :I then replicated the original units square magnet housing dimensions with multiple saw cuts. I then dry fitted : to the chassis and then pulled the unit from the hot glue bonding and then re-epoxied into the cavity. : : :A final locating of the mount holes completed the job. And , in actuality, the precise locating and positioning of : those two mounting holes took me the most time. :Worked out fine, I even used #1405 Krylon Dull Aluminum spray paint to make the wood look like the original :metal. : : : : : : : : :73's de Edd : : : : :

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:H-126 speaker profile:
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Thanks,

Dave
:Dave
:
: Don't know what you are up against but epoxy will hold a speaker in place.
:
:Norm
:
::Oh .. Okay .. Guess you just need to be inventive. Maybe the use of a cut coffee can for a mounting, solder to speaker frame. I have done that for like mounting an output transformer. Easy to make to shape and put the holes where needed ..

That is an easy fix. Why not concentrate on fixing the original speaker?

Syl

Thanks,

Dave
: The old speaker has an uncentered cone that rubs and makes noise. So I cannot use it. Please help if you can.
::
::Thanks,
::
::Dave
:
:That is an easy fix. Why not concentrate on fixing the original speaker?
:
:Syl

Oh, that explains the effort to find a substitute instead of fixing the existing speaker. I missed that in your original post.

How do I go about re-centering the voice coil in a 4" speaker? I have tried but I have never been successful. It's difficult to unstick the edge of the cone from the frame without tearing the cone.

There are at least three different techniques I've used and all work, depending of the source of the problem. A rubbing voice coil can be caused by:

* Warped cone

* Remove the voice coil cap (usually felt) and find where the vc rubs. Wet the cone, from vc to surround portion opposite to the rubbing. Use your fingers, gently, to massage the speaker cone while wet to slightly expand the paper or deform the cone (it shouldn't be visible). Use three small shims of cardstock (1/2" wide, 4" long) and wedge these (equidistant) in the gap to keep the vc centered. Let dry, remove the shims and it should be good.

* Off center vc caused by a bent basket
If the basket has been damaged (dropped), a visual inspection will show where the hit occured

* and can be bent back to shape. Twisting the basket from different angle while feeding audio to
the speaker will prove that. I use a small 3VAC transformer (or 6,3V with an 10 Ohms resistor
in series) to feed low frequency to the speaker for testing purpose. The low 60hz frequency helps
finding the cause of rubbing pretty quickly.

* Off center vc caused by a shifted cone OR spider.

* Using acetone (lacquer thinner may also work) and wetting either the surround OR the spider until
the glue softens. Insert shims as explained in (1.)then let dry.

Hope this helps,
Syl

Thanks for the kind words Bob.

I do not know of any online how-to with pictures. I suspect there may be a few about replacing a complete cone but none I know about fixing them.

I posted an easy how-to on the Philco Phorum about fixing tears on speaker cones without using patches. I wish I had more time to devote to the hobby now.

Syl