I just "look a quick took" at the service info that I had on that unit, particularly in the manner in which they
they were handling the dial pointer aspect.
For sure, you at least have the radio to make mechanical confirmations of some of my assumptions , that
are only backed up with one photo that I zoomed up.
Seems that the TOP view that they chose to give was of minimal help in the clarification of the mounting of the
Pointer. . versus a frontal view.. Now to me, it seems that if I was up against the same situation, that I would
be using a short section of 1/4 ----3/8---7/16 diameter tubing that could be slit in its lengthwise dimension
and then have the capability of being spread apart a bit to make a push on friction fit around the stub of that collar
on the center of the tunng condensers frontal pulley.

Then an initial solder tacking on of a bit of ~ #18 bare copper wire that could then be more readily re- fashioned
around into the “guesstimated” shaping and dimension that the provided mock-up drawing suggests.
The drawing leaves the shifting of dimensions as shown, seems if the pointer and tubing are too long they will
touch the frontal bezel before the chassis is fully inserted, once that critical depth is trimmed into, then one can
concentrate on the shaping of the pointer.


NOTE the way that pointer seems to HAVE to come AROUND the center area within the recessed area
and then extend into that hollowed out area.
In order to not bend the pointer , seems like that initial entry of the pointer into its rotational area can be accomplished
if the pointer was placed into its VERY TOP positioning and then place the chassis into the cabinet such that the
pointer then gets lowered downwards into its positioning into that groove. See the gap at the top and the pointer
referencing as is shown in the [YELLOW BOX] markings.
Then, when one rotates the dial and the pointer moves around the dial, it will be protruding over into that channel in
the front dial bezel which it rotates within.

Once you get the dimensions optimized using that "test" wire , you could then move to the replicating of its shaping
and bends onto what looks in the order of an ~1/8 inch width of sheet metal (tin can lid stock) to make your pointer
from it.

Next step would be that fabricated pointer then getting soldered onto the tubing , in place of the trial wire "pointer".
The photo- blow up tends to suggest a RED pointer, [yellow box referencing] but I personally might opt for a nail
polish Red, over coating on that metal myself.

You mentioned the dial stringing info being of some question, but that info is given here on its service info, which
I have also inset into the mock -up.