I'm awaiting receipt of wollensak 1515t, which according to seller works good but has pretty much been sitting in a closet since the late 60's. I'm anticipating that belts, rollers, capstans will need some refurbishing. Have any of you guys ever used the "Rubber Restore" product below? Or do you have any tips for how to go about getting such a unit back into top fitness?
regards,
chris

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=130289492782

http://www.reelprosoundguys.com/RestoreKit.html

Hi Chriss,I just finished up a Wollensak T-1515.They are a surprisingly good sounding machine when all is right.By the way,you are aware that these are two-track stereo machines,and not the modern 4,yes?Also,they record in 1/2 track mono,not stereo.I did try a four track tape in it,but it sounded crappy.Then again,it was an old tape that I borrowed.The t-1515-4 uses the modern format,but also only records in mono.
As far as the three rubber idler wheels go,mine were very dented from contact with the motor pully and fly-wheel.I didn't spend money on re-built or NOS idlers;three idlers cost more than the machines are worth.I chucked them up in a drill press and trued them using a medium grit sharpening stone.You would not believe how nice and smooth they come out.I also did this too the pinch roller.You have to be very careful on the pinch roller,take too much off,it won't grip the tape correctly.
The problem with the chemical products is that they only remove the smallest amount of rubber.The grindstone will get down to some good rubber.You have to be gentle however as you can overheat the rubber and cause it too glaze.If they're cracked and dry,you have to replace them,obviously.
Clean the hell out of the sliding mode switch.This switch seems to be a major cause of most of the nagging problems with the amplifiers.Also,the Sam's photofact gives a procedure for adjusting its actuating arm.If the amp will not work even after cleaning the switch,adjusting this will usually get it going,assuming all else is cool.Invest in many,many Q-Tip and much cleaning fluid,you will need them,believe me.The cooling fan does a nice job of getting dust and dirt into, and onto, everthing inside the case.
Hopefully you will get lucky and the amplifier will not need much as far as caps and resistors go.These have a really shallow cramped chassis and are not pleasant to work on.If you need to replace electrolytics,there is really no room underneath for them.I replaced three coupling caps in mine,but they all tested good at voltage when removed.
One more thing,you may already know this.These machines should really not be used with the current manufacture reel tapes.These tapes have a rather rough coating on the back of the tape and does not do the pressure pads in the Wollensaks(or any other vintage machine that uses said pads) any favors.
Good luck.

:Hi Chriss,I just finished up a Wollensak T-1515.They are a surprisingly good sounding machine when all is right.By the way,you are aware that these are two-track stereo machines,and not the modern 4,yes?Also,they record in 1/2 track mono,not stereo.I did try a four track tape in it,but it sounded crappy.Then again,it was an old tape that I borrowed.The t-1515-4 uses the modern format,but also only records in mono.
: As far as the three rubber idler wheels go,mine were very dented from contact with the motor pully and fly-wheel.I didn't spend money on re-built or NOS idlers;three idlers cost more than the machines are worth.I chucked them up in a drill press and trued them using a medium grit sharpening stone.You would not believe how nice and smooth they come out.I also did this too the pinch roller.You have to be very careful on the pinch roller,take too much off,it won't grip the tape correctly.
: The problem with the chemical products is that they only remove the smallest amount of rubber.The grindstone will get down to some good rubber.You have to be gentle however as you can overheat the rubber and cause it too glaze.If they're cracked and dry,you have to replace them,obviously.
: Clean the hell out of the sliding mode switch.This switch seems to be a major cause of most of the nagging problems with the amplifiers.Also,the Sam's photofact gives a procedure for adjusting its actuating arm.If the amp will not work even after cleaning the switch,adjusting this will usually get it going,assuming all else is cool.Invest in many,many Q-Tip and much cleaning fluid,you will need them,believe me.The cooling fan does a nice job of getting dust and dirt into, and onto, everthing inside the case.
: Hopefully you will get lucky and the amplifier will not need much as far as caps and resistors go.These have a really shallow cramped chassis and are not pleasant to work on.If you need to replace electrolytics,there is really no room underneath for them.I replaced three coupling caps in mine,but they all tested good at voltage when removed.
: One more thing,you may already know this.These machines should really not be used with the current manufacture reel tapes.These tapes have a rather rough coating on the back of the tape and does not do the pressure pads in the Wollensaks(or any other vintage machine that uses said pads) any favors.
: Good luck.

mike, thanks a lot for all the good info. I'm expecting shipment next week at which time, i'll better be able to assess the situation. will keep you posted.
regards,
chris

::Hi Chriss,I just finished up a Wollensak T-1515.They are a surprisingly good sounding machine when all is right.By the way,you are aware that these are two-track stereo machines,and not the modern 4,yes?Also,they record in 1/2 track mono,not stereo.I did try a four track tape in it,but it sounded crappy.Then again,it was an old tape that I borrowed.The t-1515-4 uses the modern format,but also only records in mono.
:: As far as the three rubber idler wheels go,mine were very dented from contact with the motor pully and fly-wheel.I didn't spend money on re-built or NOS idlers;three idlers cost more than the machines are worth.I chucked them up in a drill press and trued them using a medium grit sharpening stone.You would not believe how nice and smooth they come out.I also did this too the pinch roller.You have to be very careful on the pinch roller,take too much off,it won't grip the tape correctly.
:: The problem with the chemical products is that they only remove the smallest amount of rubber.The grindstone will get down to some good rubber.You have to be gentle however as you can overheat the rubber and cause it too glaze.If they're cracked and dry,you have to replace them,obviously.
:: Clean the hell out of the sliding mode switch.This switch seems to be a major cause of most of the nagging problems with the amplifiers.Also,the Sam's photofact gives a procedure for adjusting its actuating arm.If the amp will not work even after cleaning the switch,adjusting this will usually get it going,assuming all else is cool.Invest in many,many Q-Tip and much cleaning fluid,you will need them,believe me.The cooling fan does a nice job of getting dust and dirt into, and onto, everthing inside the case.
:: Hopefully you will get lucky and the amplifier will not need much as far as caps and resistors go.These have a really shallow cramped chassis and are not pleasant to work on.If you need to replace electrolytics,there is really no room underneath for them.I replaced three coupling caps in mine,but they all tested good at voltage when removed.
:: One more thing,you may already know this.These machines should really not be used with the current manufacture reel tapes.These tapes have a rather rough coating on the back of the tape and does not do the pressure pads in the Wollensaks(or any other vintage machine that uses said pads) any favors.
:: Good luck.

Hi Chris,Sounds good.I will keep checking back to see how you make out.Will be glad to help.The worst part for me about doing business on E-Bay was waiting for the box to arrive.I would actually get knots in my stomach not knowing what I was going to see when I opened it.I was given my T-1515,so I was pleasantly surprised that it really wasn't in all that bad a shape.

Speaking of given,my uncle gave me an Akai GX-400D reel to reel today that he found at the dump.It actually works,but does need a lot of TLC.This is considered by many to be the second best machine that Akai ever built.They seem to be very desireable to collectors/audiophiles.It cost over $1000 dollars in 1973 and listed for $1895.Trying to decide what I should do;fix it,have it fixed,or forget it.Damn nice machine,though.Good luck,Mike

hey, mike, yeah, funny, you're exactly right about the feeling of heightened expectation surrounding the imminent arrival of an ebay purchase. this one i have a good feeling about. one owner, presumably upper middle class, if he got it before going off to college in '62. put it away in a closet in '66. i don't really have any electronics knowledge, so i'm hopeful this unit will be in excellent mechanical order and require only some cleaning, light refurbishing. is there a general check list for tape decks like this? that is, working well mechanically, but not playing well (slow, for instance?). over the weekend, I was playing around with a concord 444 deck that i've had a few years; used to work ok, but now ever after cleaning the heads, capstans, etc with rubbing alcohol, it plays slow. would this suggest that the drive belt has slack and needs replacing? any ideas appreciated.

cheers,
chris

:Hi Chris,Sounds good.I will keep checking back to see how you make out.Will be glad to help.The worst part for me about doing business on E-Bay was waiting for the box to arrive.I would actually get knots in my stomach not knowing what I was going to see when I opened it.I was given my T-1515,so I was pleasantly surprised that it really wasn't in all that bad a shape.
:
:Speaking of given,my uncle gave me an Akai GX-400D reel to reel today that he found at the dump.It actually works,but does need a lot of TLC.This is considered by many to be the second best machine that Akai ever built.They seem to be very desireable to collectors/audiophiles.It cost over $1000 dollars in 1973 and listed for $1895.Trying to decide what I should do;fix it,have it fixed,or forget it.Damn nice machine,though.Good luck,Mike

Hi Chris,Unfortunately letting a tape deck sit for decades is about the same as letting a car sit for decades.It won't aquire much ware but it still ages.The Wollensaks have no provisions for disengaging the idlers from the motor pulley and fly-wheel.Therefore yours are probably dented.If it plays you will(or maybe not) here a constant,thump,thump thump.This is why I ground mine.They could also be hard from drying out.This makes the machine run loud,as in a lot of rumbling noise.These rigs are quite quiet when the rubber parts are soft and flexible.
You are not going to want to hear this but,your machine should be completely dissasembled so that you can clean out the old lubricant from the likages.It turns into nasty gunk with age.This also happens to the motor bearings.They are of the sleeve type.You clean them and oil these with preferably turbine oil or even 3-in-one electric motor oil.
Your belts are more than likely streched out.They may still work but not very well for long.It is quite a job to change the main belt.It runs the right hand tape spindle.You have to take the whole machine apart to do it.So you might as well do a thorough job of cleaning and lubing at the same time.The idler wheel shafts must be cleaned and lubed as well.
Cleaning the heads and tape path is ultra important.If the tiny gap in the record/playback head becomes clogged you are usually done for.Dirty heads will also make it sound very bassy even on high speed.Clean the heads with isopropyl alcohol several times and all the associated metal parts.Most technicians will tell you not to use alcohol on the pich roller.They use Windex mostly or even a cleaner especially for rubber.You must demagnetize the heads as well.You can buy a demagnetizer pretty cheap.Clean the felt pressure pads very,very carefully.If you go crazy,they will come right off the holders.The only part of the head that is important is the upper.The bottom head is the second channel for playback of two-track stereo tapes(you sure this is the straight 1515 and not the 1515-4?).This is useless for the most part today,you are unlikely to come across two-track tapes.I didn't even bother to put the pre-amp tube for this channel back in the amp.It was grossly microphonic anyway.
Depending on how much you actually plan to use this thing will determine whether you really want to do a cleaning/overhaul.Taking these apart is definately not for the faint of heart,but if you take your time and have the Sam's photfact or the Wollensak service manual at hand,it's not all that bad.
Lastly,in my opinion,if the electronics appear to work well,beyond cleaning of contacts,pots,and switches,leave it alone.If you have never replaced capacitors or resistors, this is not the rig to learn on.It is far too cramped for a newbie especially with little or no soldering experience.Keep me updated.Later,Mike

mike, thanks so much for the thoughtful trove of information and suggestions on the wollensak. In fact, i'm keen on trying all (short of replacing capacitors/resistors) of what you've suggested, even if it takes some time. I do plan on using the unit regularly -- for a family oral history project I've conceived. Incidentally, the unit I'm awaiting shipment on is the 1515-4. One last thing, with regards belts, is there a place on the Net for getting replacement belts for these rigs. As you point out, I'll likely need a replacement for this unit, and I also need one for that Concord 444 I mentioned in my last post -- that would be a 5 1/2 inch belt.
thanks.
regards,
chris

:Hi Chris,Unfortunately letting a tape deck sit for decades is about the same as letting a car sit for decades.It won't aquire much ware but it still ages.The Wollensaks have no provisions for disengaging the idlers from the motor pulley and fly-wheel.Therefore yours are probably dented.If it plays you will(or maybe not) here a constant,thump,thump thump.This is why I ground mine.They could also be hard from drying out.This makes the machine run loud,as in a lot of rumbling noise.These rigs are quite quiet when the rubber parts are soft and flexible.
: You are not going to want to hear this but,your machine should be completely dissasembled so that you can clean out the old lubricant from the likages.It turns into nasty gunk with age.This also happens to the motor bearings.They are of the sleeve type.You clean them and oil these with preferably turbine oil or even 3-in-one electric motor oil.
: Your belts are more than likely streched out.They may still work but not very well for long.It is quite a job to change the main belt.It runs the right hand tape spindle.You have to take the whole machine apart to do it.So you might as well do a thorough job of cleaning and lubing at the same time.The idler wheel shafts must be cleaned and lubed as well.
: Cleaning the heads and tape path is ultra important.If the tiny gap in the record/playback head becomes clogged you are usually done for.Dirty heads will also make it sound very bassy even on high speed.Clean the heads with isopropyl alcohol several times and all the associated metal parts.Most technicians will tell you not to use alcohol on the pich roller.They use Windex mostly or even a cleaner especially for rubber.You must demagnetize the heads as well.You can buy a demagnetizer pretty cheap.Clean the felt pressure pads very,very carefully.If you go crazy,they will come right off the holders.The only part of the head that is important is the upper.The bottom head is the second channel for playback of two-track stereo tapes(you sure this is the straight 1515 and not the 1515-4?).This is useless for the most part today,you are unlikely to come across two-track tapes.I didn't even bother to put the pre-amp tube for this channel back in the amp.It was grossly microphonic anyway.
: Depending on how much you actually plan to use this thing will determine whether you really want to do a cleaning/overhaul.Taking these apart is definately not for the faint of heart,but if you take your time and have the Sam's photfact or the Wollensak service manual at hand,it's not all that bad.
: Lastly,in my opinion,if the electronics appear to work well,beyond cleaning of contacts,pots,and switches,leave it alone.If you have never replaced capacitors or resistors, this is not the rig to learn on.It is far too cramped for a newbie especially with little or no soldering experience.Keep me updated.Later,Mike

Hi Chris,That's great that yours is the four tracker.The Sam's photo-fact applies to that model much more closely(in fact,exactly) than the straight 1515.There is only a year or so between them,but I found many differences electrically,mechanics are pretty much identical except for head configuration.The high frequency response is also slightly better than the earlier model.
You can get the belts at Ken's electronics.I can give you specifics on them if you wish.I did not get them from him myself,as he has a rather high minimum order for those like me who don't use credit cards and rather confusing ordering policies.I got them from Adam's Manufacturing,boy was that a mistake.He really stuck it to me on the large round main belt,twice as much as Ken's.He said that the 10.5 inch tape counter belt was no longer available,so talked me into a 9.8.,against my better judgement.He claimed with the rather small cross section it would stretch very easily.WRONG.It is a very rugged belt.I kept working it over the course of several days and got it to relax enough to use it.However,in his defense:he has a no questions asked return policy on everything he sells.I could have returned it,but I have PRB's master list and nothing else he could get would have fit any better.
Ken's also has the idler wheels in stock,if you decide to go that route.They were somewhere between $35 to $50 each with yours for trade-in.He also rebuilds them for a certain price.There are others who rebuild more cheaply.
If you don't have the Sam's Photofact I can e-mail it to you,just put up your addy.
Another thing,before you go ripping and tearing,take beaucoup photos with a digital camera if you have one.This saved my arse many times when I forgot where this or that part belonged.Common sense,you probably already had this thought.
At the risk of boring others with this,or for convenience,we can continue with this by e-mail if you prefer.Makes no difference to me,I check in here every day anyways.Good luck,Mike
P.S...Found out more about the Akai.It is one of only 200 made,mine being number 66-SWEEEEET!!

yeah, mike, good, idea... shoot me an email at cdennehy2000@yahoo.com. we can take this back and forth off line.. until, i get into the actual refurbishing of the unit, which I presume would hold interest to members of the forum.
regards,
chris

Hi Chris,That's great that yours is the four tracker.The Sam's photo-fact applies to that model much more closely(in fact,exactly) than the straight 1515.There is only a year or so between them,but I found many differences electrically,mechanics are pretty much identical except for head configuration.The high frequency response is also slightly better than the earlier model.
:You can get the belts at Ken's electronics.I can give you specifics on them if you wish.I did not get them from him myself,as he has a rather high minimum order for those like me who don't use credit cards and rather confusing ordering policies.I got them from Adam's Manufacturing,boy was that a mistake.He really stuck it to me on the large round main belt,twice as much as Ken's.He said that the 10.5 inch tape counter belt was no longer available,so talked me into a 9.8.,against my better judgement.He claimed with the rather small cross section it would stretch very easily.WRONG.It is a very rugged belt.I kept working it over the course of several days and got it to relax enough to use it.However,in his defense:he has a no questions asked return policy on everything he sells.I could have returned it,but I have PRB's master list and nothing else he could get would have fit any better.
:Ken's also has the idler wheels in stock,if you decide to go that route.They were somewhere between $35 to $50 each with yours for trade-in.He also rebuilds them for a certain price.There are others who rebuild more cheaply.
:If you don't have the Sam's Photofact I can e-mail it to you,just put up your addy.
:Another thing,before you go ripping and tearing,take beaucoup photos with a digital camera if you have one.This saved my arse many times when I forgot where this or that part belonged.Common sense,you probably already had this thought.
:At the risk of boring others with this,or for convenience,we can continue with this by e-mail if you prefer.Makes no difference to me,I check in here every day anyways.Good luck,Mike
: P.S...Found out more about the Akai.It is one of only 200 made,mine being number 66-SWEEEEET!!
:
:

mike, incidentally, i forgot to add -- nice find/pick-up, that Akai. Yeah, reel to reels are pretty much out there for the taking. Electronic dinosaurs... even more so than tube radio stuff. I got one last month, a soncy tc-377, off of the local NJ freecyle. very clean. mechanically working, but plays very low and barely records. heads dirty? needs demagnetizing?

i Chris,Sounds good.I will keep checking back to see how you make out.Will be glad to help.The worst part for me about doing business on E-Bay was waiting for the box to arrive.I would actually get knots in my stomach not knowing what I was going to see when I opened it.I was given my T-1515,so I was pleasantly surprised that it really wasn't in all that bad a shape.
:
:Speaking of given,my uncle gave me an Akai GX-400D reel to reel today that he found at the dump.It actually works,but does need a lot of TLC.This is considered by many to be the second best machine that Akai ever built.They seem to be very desireable to collectors/audiophiles.It cost over $1000 dollars in 1973 and listed for $1895.Trying to decide what I should do;fix it,have it fixed,or forget it.Damn nice machine,though.Good luck,Mike