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Is there a good wood cabinet guy out there?
1/28/2009 6:08:41 PMBrett
I need some input on the finish of my R-74. The dark walnut areas look to have a curly grain, almost marbled. I thought it might be a different veneer or photo finish but it was just lacquer. How can I reproduce this or do I have to settle for just toning the existing grain. I had veneer damage on the top and side so I elected to do the whole thing. I suppose I could replace the veneer in those areas but I really don’t want to go that route. How do I post pica here? Every time I drag and drop the page closes.
1/28/2009 9:39:51 PMWarren
Bet it looks a bit like the wood on this one

http://oldradioarchives.com/radio.php?radio=8597

1/28/2009 11:20:00 PMBrett
Yes, this is exactly what I have(or had), but it's just regular walnut veneer underneath. It seemed to be just lacquer. I'd post pics, but I don't know how to on this site.
1/29/2009 11:12:33 PMcd


1/28/2009 10:14:00 PMMarv Nuce
Brett/Warren,
Without a close-up, appears to be walnut burl or possibly some other exotic veneer. Some of the old radios had rather exotic painted on finishes, so be sure its actually wood grain and not a painted replica. If its wood veneer, then simply refinishing with a good quality lacquer (no stains) after stripping/sanding would do the job. In another post water was suggested to swell dents/dings, then an iron to dry it. The iron actually creates steam pressure in the cellular structure with the water present, tending to swell the wood structure back to it original shape. Typical stripping does not remove the lacquer from deep dings/dents, and extra care must be exercised to remove it, otherwise water will not sufficiently penetrate the desired area. Normally I sand after every application of this technique, but beware repeated attempts to raise a very severe dent may swell the veneer and its backing wood to the point where you'll actually sand away the veneer, reaching the less than exotic underlay. Do not use a steam iron or large wet cloth, but wet just the area of the dent/ding. Typically deep scratches cannot be removed this way, because the wood fibers/material is missing, and other techniques of filling with colored filler/putty etc will be required. If it's as Warren showed in the picture, thats quite an exciting project.

marv

:I need some input on the finish of my R-74. The dark walnut areas look to have a curly grain, almost marbled. I thought it might be a different veneer or photo finish but it was just lacquer. How can I reproduce this or do I have to settle for just toning the existing grain. I had veneer damage on the top and side so I elected to do the whole thing. I suppose I could replace the veneer in those areas but I really don’t want to go that route. How do I post pica here? Every time I drag and drop the page closes.

1/29/2009 8:45:38 AMSteve - W9DX
Brett: to post an image here, you first have to upload the image to a hosting service or web server somewhere, and post the URL address in your message. There are lots of free picture hosting services, like photobucket. You can show the URL address, or if you follow the instructions in the following link, the picture will appear in your posting. Be sure to resize your image first. See: http://www.nostalgiaair.org/forums/Messages/138/M0051138.htm
Steve
1/31/2009 3:07:30 PMsee if this works

2/2/2009 2:47:37 PMnope, but The Shaaaaaadow knoooows









Found these before and after "318" cabinet , RCAFIN1 comparisons and the smaller sized,frontal trim piece as RCAFIN2,
along with their possible photographer also residing in an adjunct "baspas” album.


SHAZAAAAAAAMM. . . a la Captain Marvel. . .or. . . more likely, GOMER PYLE. . . now-a-days












2/4/2009 4:31:05 PMBrett Sloan
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:Found these before and after "318" cabinet , RCAFIN1 comparisons and the smaller sized,frontal trim piece as RCAFIN2,
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:SHAZAAAAAAAMM. . . a la Captain Marvel. . .or. . . more likely, GOMER PYLE. . . now-a-days
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:The pics are mine but I have no idea who the kid is. I contacted Pond Cove Paint and Mohawk on what to use. I’m looking to use a medium or light brown base coat that covers the grain. Then I want to dry brush the darker walnut over it to duplicate the original finish. I’ve been unable to find anyone who has thus far. All the refinish jobs I seen just used dark walnut toned lacquer. But then whole front of the original was done in opaque toned lacquers that didn’t allow the grain to show though. Decisions, decisions.
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2/8/2009 3:17:15 AMbutch s
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::Found these before and after "318" cabinet , RCAFIN1 comparisons and the smaller sized,frontal trim piece as RCAFIN2,
:: along with their possible photographer also residing in an adjunct "baspas” album.
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::SHAZAAAAAAAMM. . . a la Captain Marvel. . .or. . . more likely, GOMER PYLE. . . now-a-days
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::The pics are mine but I have no idea who the kid is. I contacted Pond Cove Paint and Mohawk on what to use. I’m looking to use a medium or light brown base coat that covers the grain. Then I want to dry brush the darker walnut over it to duplicate the original finish. I’ve been unable to find anyone who has thus far. All the refinish jobs I seen just used dark walnut toned lacquer. But then whole front of the original was done in opaque toned lacquers that didn’t allow the grain to show though. Decisions, decisions.
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i think you could duplicate that look with an good airbrush and toner.butch


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