Thanks Walt, I unsoldered the three leads from the volume control part and put my ohmmeter to them. One leg on the end has no continuity to either center leg or other end leg.

You will have to take it apart. The legs are crimped to the disk. Be careful and try to crimp it again from the sides, then top to bottom.

For now, you can forget the taps, they only work with that super duper tone circuit, put in a regular volume control, and finish the rest of the radio. The control can, IMHO, be repaired, but you might have to get some conductive paint to repair the tap that doesn't measure to the rest of the pot.
Otherwise, that looks like a really good performing radio, what with the push-pull output and a few other things I see on the schematic.
Lewis

If I just replace it for now could I use a 1Meg?

Though your radio would work with virtual taps, they are not the same as an actual tapped volume control. The actual taps affect the audio as the wiper approaches and passes them. This would not happen with a virtual tap, though your radio would work.

If you do decide to go with the virtual tap method, construct a string of resistors that electrically equals the original volume control's resistance, including the position of the taps. You can either try this attached between the two end terminals of your new volume control, or between the high and the center terminals of your control (the high terminal is where the signal is fed in from the IF transformer). I have a feeling that the latter approach will create an effect more in keeping with the original control, but I may be wrong.

Another thing to consider is that paralleling resistance with the volume control will effectively reduce the resistance of the volume control, which tends to reduce bass response. If, for instance, the radio originally called for a tapped 1 meg volume control, you might consider trying a string of resistors equalling 2 megohms in parallel with a 2 megohm volume control, as opposed to a string of resistors equalling 1 megohm in parallel with a 1 megohm control. Try it and see which one you like better. Increasing the resistances of the virtual tap circuit might reduce effectiveness of the circuit, so it might not be possible to do this.

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As was suggested, conductive paint can be used to make repairs to the original control. Go to an automotive store and purchase a rear window defogger repair kit. If the bad spots are on the actual wiper surface, a repair will create a flat spot (where no change takes place), but the control will otherwise function well.

It is best to disassemble a poorly working control and to have a look inside. If the terminals do not have continuity, but the resistance material otherwise looks fine, try squeezing the rivets gently with a pliers. If there is a crack in the resistance material, defogger repair paint will help here. If the wiper isn't making proper contact with the resistance material, remove the C clip from the shaft and remove the wiper (somewhat difficult--requires two sharp screw drivers....don't stab yourself!!). Bend the wiper(s) down so that there is slightly more contact. Don't over-do it or you'll wear out the resistance material prematurely. Reassemble the wiper assembly without inserting the clip. Check operation. Be sure that no sharp edges on the wiper dig into the resistance material. If they do, bend the wiper appropriately or file the sharp edges so that only smooth round surfaces touch the resistance material.

Finally, before the final assembly, apply a thin film of di-electric grease to the resistance material. Apply some to the wiper shaft, too. Reassemble the control. Check operation with your meter. Then replace the C clip once it is affirmative that the control works properly. Tighten the C clip with a pliers.

T.

Thanks, I took it all apart and it just isn't making contact where the one leg is bent over onto the conductive strip. Crimping it down more does nothing. When I took the back off there was a small metal cylinder just floating around inside and I have no idea where it should go. Seems like it would have been used for a stop but don't see where it lived.

That cylinder looking thing is the part that rides the disk. It belongs on the wiper arm, and is held in place by the wipers spring action when the shaft is back in place, and together again. For the open leg you could try what I think is called " Ackwadac " don't know how that's really spelled. But it the flat black paint you would find on a CRT glass bell used for grounding. A dab of that from leg to disk will make connection again. You should be able to find this from some radio supply store. It's cheap too.

If you still can't figure out where the cylinder thingie goes, e-mail one (or some) of us some clear pictures. You can e-mail someone by dragging your mouse over their name, to the upper left of their post (while you're reading it). If it turns light blue, then they left their e-mail.

T.

73's de Edd