T.
T.
What model Solar is it?
Radiodoc
**************
:AES has a 16 MFD at 800 WVDC. Yeah? Might work?
:
:T.
:Thomas,
:
:What model Solar is it?
:
:Radiodoc
:**************
:
:
:
::AES has a 16 MFD at 800 WVDC. Yeah? Might work?
::
::T.
Here is a picture of a Solar CB-1-60:
Radiodoc
****************
:CB
Looks just like my CB, except put new test leads, but used orig banana plugs and alligator clips after cleaning/polishing them. Refinished everything, but noticed t'nite the hinges are getting rusty and tarnished. Guess I'll have to try my brass electroplating on them.
marv
:Thomas,
:
:Here is a picture of a Solar CB-1-60:
:
:
:
:Radiodoc
:****************
:
:
::CB
I still have the cloth test leads. They're perfect. The cord is cloth, too, though I changed it to a new cloth cord. The original doesn't have the wires separated by cloth. The rubber was starting to rot, and I knew that soon the wires would migrate together, and then BOOM! The wires were fraying dangerously inside of the plug, too. I re-used the original rubber plug on the new cord.
The unit is amazingly sensitive to leakage (leakage that I wouldn't detect with my meter), and is good at rejuvenating electrolytics, too. However, I have one problem. Every .1 MFD cap I own tests at about .08 or .09 MFD. Never higher! All other caps test reasonably close to where they should, whether higher than .1 MFD or lower. I've tried new .1 MFD caps and old ones. I know that .08 to .09 falls in the lower portion of the 10% tolerance, but why do these all fall that low, and none fall exactly at .1? I'm wondering if others find this on their modern digital testers, or if perhaps my bridge adjuster is just inaccurate at this section. It's accurate at this section for other ranges, though. I've tested all components inside of the analyzer, too. The capacitor for this range tests right at .02 MFD, where it should.
My theory is that .1 MFD caps are usually only used as a small RF filter cap, and not usually as anything else. The value isn't too critical, and so manufacturers skimp as low as they can while still staying within tolerance. I can't imagine every manufacturer doing this, though, and so I wonder if instead there is something wrong with the analyzer.
Interesting that this analyzer goes down to 10 MMFD. I put in a 10 MMFD ceramic cap, and sure enough it tested right where it should. It tests variable caps well, too, though they are more practically tested with the test leads, and the test leads add capacitance, which throws off the reading slightly (a 365 MMFD cap read around 400 MMFD). The tester is good at showing up even the smallest shorts. If you turn the leakage control all the way up (400 volts....through a resistor), tiny sparks jump across the plates of the variable capacitor. However, a perfectly acceptable leakage test can be made at setting #1, which uses about 100 volts--more than what most variable caps will ever see.
T.
Can you link us to photos of your analyzer?
Doug
:AES has a 16 MFD at 800 WVDC. Yeah? Might work?
:
:T.
Good to see you're still amongst us, and welcome back to the NA Forum. I have a Solar model CB, but have only replaced the rectifier, restored the case, cleaned it up, and believe it or not, the 6E5 is still good. Its a keepsake, having been used by my deceased brother back in the 50's-60's in his small Radio/TV Repair Enterprise of yesteryear. Rarely use it, except for high voltage tests, because my B & K is more accurate, but batt powered. Keep us posted on any repairs you find necessary in yours. All my restorations are done, and only get more when they occur by chance. Don't shop around for anything specific, mainly because of my economic situation. I still tinker with old/new hardware just to stay busy and active. My most recent endeavor was a small batt powered lighted carousel for my first grandchild. It was made of salvaged parts from hard drives, pc power supplies and other leftover stuff in my shop.
marv
:.......So I got this capacitor analyzer. I've always wanted one, ever since I saw one in a display case at UWM. They're so cool looking in that wooden box and all, and with the attractive dial and two tubes. Peter showed me some more modern cap/inductance testers that are probably better, ready to use, etc. But I had to have this one!!!!!!! .....And it's in really good condition. The guy who sold it plugged it in and said that everything came on. ....So when I got it I figured that I could do the same. .....And I did. It did light up well, and even tested some capacitors reasonably well. The values were somewhat off, but not by too much. However, I did finally have a look inside. Some of the paper caps had been replaced. Only two were left, and one is for the electrolytic testing range, so leakage isn't as critical. ....But I'm going to replace those eventually. The main filter electrolytics, however, are in one of those cardboard box units--the kind that always dries up, sometimes bulges, and you know that it's going to be bad. I tested the unit. Both sections barely deflected the meter, and had about a megohm of leakage. I'm curious as to how the tester could work that way, but evidently it doesn't take much. What I'm even more curious about is what the values are, especially voltage. The transformer puts out 400 volts AC! That equates to 566 volts peak! What on Earth should I use as a filter???????? It doesn't have to be large, of course, since the only power draw is a 6E5 and a voltage divider.
:
:T.
Regarding the analyzer, it's a model CB. I don't have a camera with me right now for posting pictures, but you can find pictures on google. I also printed the manual that's on this site using the booklet feature on my printer. It looks great!! To print all of the even pages, though, I had to turn each one upside-down in the file.
My analzyer seems to be fine. I haven't tested any of the resistors. Both of the remaining paper caps are leaky. I replaced one that's used more, and I'll replace the other some other time. T hey're both huge. One's a .5 and one's a 2.0. Both paper. The 1-V rectifier is rather weak, but works after it reaches full temperature. Funny, because it doesn't look all that used. I've tried rejuvenating it with heavy currents on my tube tester, but that didn't help too much.
The analyzer is fairly accurate. A long time ago Peter gave me a huge stash of old caps (you know how I love to re-stuff caps), and so I pulled some out to test, and also brought out some of my new caps (metalized film). They all tested reasonably well. I can't say that the tester is inaccurate because different caps of the same value all read differently, so I have nothing to accurately judge the tester by (I am assuming that the caps are all off slightly, by their allowable tolerances). I can say that they all test approximately where they should. Some of my new metalized film .1 MFDs test at about .08. The .01 MFD film caps test between .008 and .01 MFD. They all seem to test at or below where they should. The old leaky cap I pulled from the analyzer tests at about .7 instead of .5. A .02 MFD paper cap that was slightly leaky tested at about .03, and flashed the neon light to indicate leakage. I had one old multi-section electrolytic where the 30 MFD was right on, and the 50 section tested at about 60. Another, which was dried up, tested accordingly, with no deflection except when the dial was rotated to 'OPEN'.
As far as the filters are concerned, what I did temporarily is locate an old 20x20 450WVDC from that stash of caps. It needed reforming, but after I reformed it, it had no leakage at all, so I tried it out. I figured that it might have an extra margin of safety built in, but maybe I'm pushing it. At any rate, the tester works perfectly with it, and it doesn't seem to get warm. When I turn the tester off, the eye tube stays lit for a moment or two, indicating that the filter sections are holding a good charge.
The tester sure is awesome looking, and seems to be fairly accurate. I'd like to somehow build an inductance feature into it (without ruining it), but I may just buy one of those modern inductance meters instead.
T.
Also, turns out that the 450 volt electrolytic I am using in the power supply is just fine. At the rectifier cathode I get an even 400 volts. I expected higher, but perhaps there's a bit of voltage drop in the tube. The 1V tube tested out as weak, so who knows. It doesn't get all that warm, really, but it doesn't have much of a load, either. The electrolytic doesn't get warm and doesn't sizzle. The unit has a sort of electrolytic smell to it, though I can't remember if the smell existed before I put in the replacement electrolytic or not.
All in all this is a nice little instrument. It isn't as compact as one of those digital units, but it is good looking and fun to use. I should try it with variable capacitors. That's where it'd be really helpful--using that unknown variable capacitor in a certain project.
T.
:
:Also, turns out that the 450 volt electrolytic I am using in the power supply is just fine. At the rectifier cathode I get an even 400 volts. I expected higher, but perhaps there's a bit of voltage drop in the tube. The 1V tube tested out as weak, so who knows. It doesn't get all that warm, really, but it doesn't have much of a load, either. The electrolytic doesn't get warm and doesn't sizzle. The unit has a sort of electrolytic smell to it, though I can't remember if the smell existed before I put in the replacement electrolytic or not.
:
:All in all this is a nice little instrument. It isn't as compact as one of those digital units, but it is good looking and fun to use. I should try it with variable capacitors. That's where it'd be really helpful--using that unknown variable capacitor in a certain project.
:
:T.
I also found one of these several months ago. This post got me to thinking about it . Dug it out and recapped it. only thing wrong is the transformer does the old snap,crackle,pop+ lots of smoke when powered up. Anyone have any idea as to a replacement transformer?
Merry Christmas
Jon.
The transformer has a 50 volt AC winding, a 400 volt AC winding (no center tap), and a 6.3 volt winding (no more than 1 ampere) for the filaments (model CB). For a model CC there is also a 5.0 volt winding for the rectifier. I'd say that any small transformer with a 400 volt winding (or a 200-0-200 winding) would do, but you also need that 50 volt winding, and it must be a separate winding.
The way that the unit works is via a bridge circuit that works like the hum neutralizer in early radios (where DC is fed to an AC filament via a centralized location, either at a center tapped winding or at the center of two resistors strung across the AC source. In the analyzer you have a potentiometer (the capacitance control) across the 50 volt winding (the winding puts out AC, and is not rectified or filtered). The center (wiper) of the potentiometer is grounded to B-. A pre-seleted capacitance within the analyzer is connected in series with the capacitor you wish to analyze. The two capacitors are also placed across the 50 volt winding. Where they join is connected to the grid of the 6E5. The external capacitance and whether it passes more AC than the internal capacitance or not will determine the balance point in the phase relationship between one side and the other side of the 50 volt AC winding. Unless this balance point is the same as that of the potentiometer, where it is currently set, AC will be sent to the 6E5 grid, causing it to deflect the electrons back and forth very rapidly--too rapidly for you to see, and the target will appear to be fully lit. As you turn the potentiometer (capacitance control), and as you approach the same balance point as the two capacitors, less and less AC will be sent to the grid of the 6E5, and so the deflector will deflect the electrons back and forth less and less. The 6E5 grid is also biased via the bias resistor, which is biased in such a way as to open, or darken, the target area when no signal is present. Once the bridge has been completely neutralized, you will have a fully open target. Where the potentiometer falls indicates your capacitance.
The bridge indicator circuit is NOT voltage critical. All that is necessary is for there to be an AC voltage great enough to fill in the target area when there is imbalance, and a DC bias great enough to darken the target area when no AC signal is present, and, of course, enough DC voltage to light the target. The only reason why you need the 400 volts AC (which, in my tester, which has a weak 1V tube, comes out to 400 volts DC, but should come out somewhat higher with a new tube (possibly)), is to create enough DC voltage to detect leakage in high voltage capacitors, and also to rejuvenate 400+ volt electrolytics (the analyzer will rejuventate electrolytics well!!).
Here are some ideas for you, should you need to replace the transformer:
www.tubesandmore.com sells transformers. However, they only have either 190-0-190 volt transformers (with a 6.3 volt winding), or 400-0-400 volt transformers. They do not seem to have any with a single section 400 volt winding. 190-0-190 would add up to 380 volts, which is fairly adequate. There are some transformers in that category that are quite small.
For the 50 volts AC (which must be a separate winding....cannot be derived from the 400 volt winding), you could either use a divider resistor network across the line cord (which would make for a potential shock hazard between the instrument and a grounded surface), or you could get the smallest 6.3-0-6.3 volt transformer that Radio Shack sells, and connect one of the 6.3 volt windings to the 6.3 volt winding of your power transformer, and then use the 120 volts out of the primary to feed a divider resistor, and obtain your 50 volts AC from that (you could simply connect a resistor or rheostat in series with the capacitance potentiometer, and then connect that across the 120 volt winding, and then adjust your resistance until the voltage across the capacitance potentiometer is 50).
I can't think of anything else right now. You could rewind the original transformer if you are up for that. The units seem to come up on eBay now and then. If you don't mind parting one out, you could put the best of the two together to make a new unit.
The box cleans up well, especially if you strip it with a rag soaked in acetone, and sand out scratches. A fresh coat of clear lacquer looks great with polished chrome. The original instruction manual is on this web site, and if you are good with the booklet feature of your photo program, it prints into a booklet that fits perfectly inside of the tester (be sure to lacquer the pages so that the ink doesn't run).
T.
Well, this guy decided to get rid of his box that he thought was home made, so here's a unit that's pretty much worthless, unless you care to make it a new box.
It's the model CC, which has an extra range. Its transformer will work for both the CC and the CB. You could also just use it in your box, if it will fit. I like the looks of the model CB better, but the model CC is probably more useful (extra range).
T.
:
:Well, this guy decided to get rid of his box that he thought was home made, so here's a unit that's pretty much worthless, unless you care to make it a new box.
:
:It's the model CC, which has an extra range. Its transformer will work for both the CC and the CB. You could also just use it in your box, if it will fit. I like the looks of the model CB better, but the model CC is probably more useful (extra range).
:
:T.
Thomas,
As usual you boggle my mind with your knowledgs-truly spooky.I think you are right to find a unit to salvage a transformer. I dont really need this analyzer, I just love the old diagnostic equipment to go along with my radios. The 6E5 tube checks out fine, but I do not have settings for the 1V tube on either my Precision 920 or my EICO 625. It shows continuity across the heaters so for now I assume its o.k.
Again thanks so much for yoyr help,
Jon.
Regarding the 1V, other than the above test, a simple emissions test as far as the Solar Analyzer is concerned, would simply be to have the unit in operation (with a good functional transformer), and to check for 400+ volts at the cathode. If 400 volts exists, then the tube is doing fine. There isn't much current draw in the tester, so the tube doesn't need to be perfect. You might consider using the adjustments you'd use to test a 6X5. Most likely your tester has settings for a 6X5, a rather common tube.
T.
:
:Regarding the 1V, other than the above test, a simple emissions test as far as the Solar Analyzer is concerned, would simply be to have the unit in operation (with a good functional transformer), and to check for 400+ volts at the cathode. If 400 volts exists, then the tube is doing fine. There isn't much current draw in the tester, so the tube doesn't need to be perfect. You might consider using the adjustments you'd use to test a 6X5. Most likely your tester has settings for a 6X5, a rather common tube.
:
:T.
Thomas,
Your endless depth of information is scary. I will try the 6X5 settings. I have several other 1V's and will compare.
Again,thanks a million
Jon.
T.
T.
If Jon thinks your electronics knowledge is scary...
He should ask you about how GM used some kind of anti-static powder to put in the inner tubes of their cars to help reduce static in the car radio... and how even the wheel bearings have a contact point for static elimination too!..
Not to mention your in-depth knowledge of old wind-up turntables and the spring tension and mechanical rpm speed regulator and even turn-table surface flocking information ad infinitum.
As well as your detailed knowledge of old home movie projectors!
On top of which the fact that you fully rebuilt your daily drive 1951-52 Chevy and probably know more about the mechanics of that car than the shop manual.
Add to this the fact that you are still ONLY in your late 20s!!!!!!!!
Where you ever discovered all that info from is still a mystery to me...lol
If Jon thinks your electronics knowledge is scary...
He should ask you about how GM used some kind of anti-static powder to put in the inner tubes of their cars to help reduce static in the car radio... and how even the wheel bearings have a contact point for static elimination too!..
Not to mention your in-depth knowledge of old wind-up turntables and the spring tension and mechanical rpm speed regulator and even turn-table surface flocking information ad infinitum.
As well as your detailed knowledge of old home movie projectors!
On top of which the fact that you fully rebuilt your daily drive 1951-52 Chevy and probably know more about the mechanics of that car than the shop manual.
Add to this the fact that you are still ONLY in your late 20s!!!!!!!!
Where you ever discovered all that info from is still a mystery to me...lol
Ha!
Yeah. That's pretty awesome about the anti-static powder and the wheel bearing springs and all. I don't have wheel bearing springs. I can't say that I pick up too much static, but my tires are a different rubber than what they used back then. I know that tires usually have a white powder inside straight from the factory. I don't know if they put that in there because everyone has a radio these days (just like almost all cars have radio resistance spark wires), or if it's some sort of rubber protectant. Also, modern tires don't have inner tubes, but then, the powder was put into the tube, not between the tube and the tire.
Thanks for refreshing my memory! It must be the dynamic kind, instead of the static kind.
T.
How do you know if your reference caps are still accurate?
Obviously I can't be absolutely sure about any of the caps, since I'm only using one as a reference to another, but I assume that if they all test out the same, that they probably are what is marked on them.
T.
I've got one (model CB) with a broken neon bulb. Can someone tell me what kind of bulb I need? The bulb has a two contact bayonet base. I'm guessing it might be a NE-48 but I'm not sure.
Thanks,
Keith
::This thing is lots of fun! I pulled out a whole bunch of old electrolytics. Many rejuvenated well, now with no leakage (and the neon leakage lamp is supposed to be very sensitive). Most are right at value. The ones where a hole is blown through the rubber test as open. I had one that tested out fine. However, the manufacturer reversed the color coding. They had orange as the 50 section, and red as the 30. I would have done otherwise myself. Sure enough, the red was actually the 50, and the orange was the 30. I found another electrolytic with a high power factor, which is supposed to be bad for RF filtering purposes (most electrolytics are bad with RF anyway).
::
::Also, turns out that the 450 volt electrolytic I am using in the power supply is just fine. At the rectifier cathode I get an even 400 volts. I expected higher, but perhaps there's a bit of voltage drop in the tube. The 1V tube tested out as weak, so who knows. It doesn't get all that warm, really, but it doesn't have much of a load, either. The electrolytic doesn't get warm and doesn't sizzle. The unit has a sort of electrolytic smell to it, though I can't remember if the smell existed before I put in the replacement electrolytic or not.
::
::All in all this is a nice little instrument. It isn't as compact as one of those digital units, but it is good looking and fun to use. I should try it with variable capacitors. That's where it'd be really helpful--using that unknown variable capacitor in a certain project.
::
::T.
:
:I also found one of these several months ago. This post got me to thinking about it . Dug it out and recapped it. only thing wrong is the transformer does the old snap,crackle,pop+ lots of smoke when powered up. Anyone have any idea as to a replacement transformer?
:Merry Christmas
:Jon.
Keith
:I just saw the thread on Solar capacitor analyzers.
:I've got one (model CB) with a broken neon bulb. Can someone tell me what kind of bulb I need? The bulb has a two contact bayonet base. I'm guessing it might be a NE-48 but I'm not sure.
:Thanks,
:Keith
:::This thing is lots of fun! I pulled out a whole bunch of old electrolytics. Many rejuvenated well, now with no leakage (and the neon leakage lamp is supposed to be very sensitive). Most are right at value. The ones where a hole is blown through the rubber test as open. I had one that tested out fine. However, the manufacturer reversed the color coding. They had orange as the 50 section, and red as the 30. I would have done otherwise myself. Sure enough, the red was actually the 50, and the orange was the 30. I found another electrolytic with a high power factor, which is supposed to be bad for RF filtering purposes (most electrolytics are bad with RF anyway).
:::
:::Also, turns out that the 450 volt electrolytic I am using in the power supply is just fine. At the rectifier cathode I get an even 400 volts. I expected higher, but perhaps there's a bit of voltage drop in the tube. The 1V tube tested out as weak, so who knows. It doesn't get all that warm, really, but it doesn't have much of a load, either. The electrolytic doesn't get warm and doesn't sizzle. The unit has a sort of electrolytic smell to it, though I can't remember if the smell existed before I put in the replacement electrolytic or not.
:::
:::All in all this is a nice little instrument. It isn't as compact as one of those digital units, but it is good looking and fun to use. I should try it with variable capacitors. That's where it'd be really helpful--using that unknown variable capacitor in a certain project.
:::
:::T.
::
::I also found one of these several months ago. This post got me to thinking about it . Dug it out and recapped it. only thing wrong is the transformer does the old snap,crackle,pop+ lots of smoke when powered up. Anyone have any idea as to a replacement transformer?
::Merry Christmas
::Jon.
I pulled the neon bulb in my Solar CB, and it is indeed an NE-48, still working after about 60 yrs
marv
:The previous owner of my Solar tester recapped the unit and wired in a modern neon into the original bayonett base. It works great but the jury rigged bulb looks horrible. I made a pretty good digital reproduction of the instructions that are inside the lid if anyone is interested. Any advice on a replacement bulb?
:Keith
:
::I just saw the thread on Solar capacitor analyzers.
::I've got one (model CB) with a broken neon bulb. Can someone tell me what kind of bulb I need? The bulb has a two contact bayonet base. I'm guessing it might be a NE-48 but I'm not sure.
::Thanks,
::Keith
::::This thing is lots of fun! I pulled out a whole bunch of old electrolytics. Many rejuvenated well, now with no leakage (and the neon leakage lamp is supposed to be very sensitive). Most are right at value. The ones where a hole is blown through the rubber test as open. I had one that tested out fine. However, the manufacturer reversed the color coding. They had orange as the 50 section, and red as the 30. I would have done otherwise myself. Sure enough, the red was actually the 50, and the orange was the 30. I found another electrolytic with a high power factor, which is supposed to be bad for RF filtering purposes (most electrolytics are bad with RF anyway).
::::
::::Also, turns out that the 450 volt electrolytic I am using in the power supply is just fine. At the rectifier cathode I get an even 400 volts. I expected higher, but perhaps there's a bit of voltage drop in the tube. The 1V tube tested out as weak, so who knows. It doesn't get all that warm, really, but it doesn't have much of a load, either. The electrolytic doesn't get warm and doesn't sizzle. The unit has a sort of electrolytic smell to it, though I can't remember if the smell existed before I put in the replacement electrolytic or not.
::::
::::All in all this is a nice little instrument. It isn't as compact as one of those digital units, but it is good looking and fun to use. I should try it with variable capacitors. That's where it'd be really helpful--using that unknown variable capacitor in a certain project.
::::
::::T.
:::
:::I also found one of these several months ago. This post got me to thinking about it . Dug it out and recapped it. only thing wrong is the transformer does the old snap,crackle,pop+ lots of smoke when powered up. Anyone have any idea as to a replacement transformer?
:::Merry Christmas
:::Jon.
I'll try to find a NE-48. This unit looks very cool and is great for finding leaky caps.
Keith
:Keith,
:I pulled the neon bulb in my Solar CB, and it is indeed an NE-48, still working after about 60 yrs
:
:marv
:
::The previous owner of my Solar tester recapped the unit and wired in a modern neon into the original bayonett base. It works great but the jury rigged bulb looks horrible. I made a pretty good digital reproduction of the instructions that are inside the lid if anyone is interested. Any advice on a replacement bulb?
::Keith
::
:::I just saw the thread on Solar capacitor analyzers.
:::I've got one (model CB) with a broken neon bulb. Can someone tell me what kind of bulb I need? The bulb has a two contact bayonet base. I'm guessing it might be a NE-48 but I'm not sure.
:::Thanks,
:::Keith
:::::This thing is lots of fun! I pulled out a whole bunch of old electrolytics. Many rejuvenated well, now with no leakage (and the neon leakage lamp is supposed to be very sensitive). Most are right at value. The ones where a hole is blown through the rubber test as open. I had one that tested out fine. However, the manufacturer reversed the color coding. They had orange as the 50 section, and red as the 30. I would have done otherwise myself. Sure enough, the red was actually the 50, and the orange was the 30. I found another electrolytic with a high power factor, which is supposed to be bad for RF filtering purposes (most electrolytics are bad with RF anyway).
:::::
:::::Also, turns out that the 450 volt electrolytic I am using in the power supply is just fine. At the rectifier cathode I get an even 400 volts. I expected higher, but perhaps there's a bit of voltage drop in the tube. The 1V tube tested out as weak, so who knows. It doesn't get all that warm, really, but it doesn't have much of a load, either. The electrolytic doesn't get warm and doesn't sizzle. The unit has a sort of electrolytic smell to it, though I can't remember if the smell existed before I put in the replacement electrolytic or not.
:::::
:::::All in all this is a nice little instrument. It isn't as compact as one of those digital units, but it is good looking and fun to use. I should try it with variable capacitors. That's where it'd be really helpful--using that unknown variable capacitor in a certain project.
:::::
:::::T.
::::
::::I also found one of these several months ago. This post got me to thinking about it . Dug it out and recapped it. only thing wrong is the transformer does the old snap,crackle,pop+ lots of smoke when powered up. Anyone have any idea as to a replacement transformer?
::::Merry Christmas
::::Jon.