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GE HJ-1205 speaker setup and antenna rotation setup
9/16/2008 11:27:57 PMElliott Swanson
Hello all...

I'm working on my first old time radio. I've just purchased new tubes, and it looks like a lot of the resistors and caps have been replaced. I can't figure out how the two speakers were set up. There appears to be no crossover between the 6.5" and 14" speakers, and no wires are currently installed other than two wires tha. Secondly, I'm completely confounded by the thread/pulley assembly that uses the center dial to rotate the large internal antenna, nor am I sure which wires go where between the chassis and the antenna or what the best type of string would be best. There's a detached spring on top of the antenna "drum" that's disconnected-- possibly a stress relief for the rotation??? Any help appreciated.

9/17/2008 2:41:39 PMEdd







Sir Elliott:


Sounds like you might have yourself quite a unit there when you get it going.


I can't figure out how the two speakers were set up. There appears to be no crossover between the 6.5" and 14" speakers, and no wires are currently installed other than two wires tha.


I cant quite lock in on the verbiage there, as to whether the fact is that there is currently no interconnecting wire between the speakers, thus not connecting them together. Or were you thinking 21st century in the respect of a L/C network separating the highs and low frequencies and routing then accordingly?

In this particular case. . . ..circa 1940 technology. . . .it was just an inter connection between the 6 1/2 inch squawker and the 12 inch woofer and then let them do their things.


I made a mark up of the pictorial drawing on the left highlighted area and the schameatic over to the right in its area and the interconnect conditions presented to that “Beam-a-Scope. . . . Loopey Doopey antenna unit. It seems to just be three wires interconnecting between the loop and the chassis connection points. Two of which appear to be just
a small Bakelite washer ended (grip) on 1 large, and 1 small “tube pin” connectors akin to the 2 sizing’s that you might find on an old #80 tube base. Probably the connector on the beam a scope is the female counterpart type of a wafer socket that is accommodating the fitting in of those two pins. And then there is a Fahnestock [Ref1] connector involved for the last connection (picture included, in case you are unfamiliar with one of those)

Additionally, there might be a slight possibility that the three wires might be color coded IF the colors have been retained over the maaannnnny years past. Mainly in accordance as to whether plastic / rubber or cotton wiring was used. If that is the case, I showed the. . . 9 white. . . , 3 orange. . . , and 4 yellow. . . . wiring color codes.


Looking over at the picture of the S1A rear wafer you should see where the wires are connected on the set, as well as the ext antenna wire getting connected to pin 3 of the switch conection.

Since you have the unit to further inspect. . . .while I am blind. . . . the mentioned “spring” might be associated with the electrostatically shielded aspect of the unit and in getting an electrical connection to its shielding or else the spring might be associated with mechanically holding the loop into a set positioning until the loop positioning knob is utilized again.

As far as the stringing of the units loop to its rotating knob, might we assume it to be as simple as restringing a radio dial cord, since it only has to rotate the loop 90 degrees in order to fully differentiate between a E-W versus N-S reception bearing.

[Ref 1]. . . . Fahnestock. . . .now that’s quite a mouthful !. . . .as a young lad, and my attempting to fathom the fine art of electronics in a Pop 15…..hard scrabble, Texas town ?, and having Zeeeero people, with any technical acumen present, I was immediately introduced to binding posts, knurled thumb screw nuts and the “Fathnestock” clip.


Now guess how I handled that latter item , well, none other than pronouncing it as . . . .FATH as in fathom, NES as knees and of course I could handle the STOCK aspect. . . .thus giving forth a three separate words pronunciation of FATH-KNEES-STOCK.

When I eventually got corrected, but only much- much- much- much later, it turned out to be akin to FAWN (the deer) STOCK.

Now. . . . . I’ll bet that you don’t even want to hear about how I later took on the words of Tarzan and Chevrolet !. . . .


Tech Referencing:



73's de Edd





9/18/2008 3:55:45 AMElliott Swanson
Edd, many thanks for the info. I see one sentence was chopped during the upload. The botched sentence should have read "and no wires are currently installed other than two that lead from the metal chassis, and are pretty obviously for the speakers." So what you're saying is that the speakers run in parallel, and all I have to do is split the two wires so they go to both speakers? Currently there are just the two wires coming out of the chassis, and no wires interconnecting the speakers. The setup you show for wiring the antenna looks right-- there are three wires, with a green in the center. But what I can't figure out is how to build the mechanical (string) link between the front center knob, and the top of the antenna drum. The spring I mentioned on the top of the drum is about 1/4 dia and a couple of inches long, wound like a ball point pen spring. One end is connected to the drum, and the other connects to nothing. The antenna drum is designed to rotate for tuning. It's entirely covered with paper, so the internal wiring isn't visible. The Catalin plastic front plate had shrunk a bit, but it was no problem restoring and remounting it a tiny bit lower-- it still covers the face opening just fine, and the tuning and volume wheels line up through it.
9/18/2008 11:01:31 AMEdd








So what you're saying is that the speakers run in parallel, and all I have to do is split the two wires so they go to both speakers?



Correct in one aspect, on the routing of one wire to the smaller speaker and the other wire to the other larger speaker to their unused terminals and the dependence upon the fact of the original wire still being present in order to have the connection being made between the speakers, thus having no speaker inter phasing relationships to have to worry about.

Ya’ don’t wanna have one speaker blowing out and the other one sucking in on the same note. . . .’ya know !

Annnnnndddd . . . . the other mentioned aspect, would be that the speakers are wired in series, not parallel.

Ya got me on that “springy dingy ” wire that you mentioned, the only immediate other thought was if it was connected into the wiring that is on term 3 or the antenna wire proper, it could possibly be there for acting as a bit of a counterpoise whip antenna, in its offering of omni-directional pick up of signal, in case the loop positioning was at a null position on a station.

Use an ohmmeter and check and to see if it connects to any of those connections, excluding the possibility of it connecting to ground [ Terminal 4] and I’m mainly thinking of term 3.

If it connects to ground, its function must be a mechanically oriented aspect.

I have no idea on the rotation aspect of the Beam-o-Scope, but if there is a front chassis shaft with its knob and is dedicated for that function, I would expect a decent size drum on the end of that shaft so that it could be wound with the “dial cord” and then possibly pass over 2 small idler pulleys in enabling a 90 degree directional transition in getting over to the area of the loop antenna where there would be a like sized drum that the cord would be wound around.


If this was dial cord to tuning condenser situation, typically there would be a 1/4 inch shaft interfacing to a 2-3 inch drum on the tuning condenser, such that there is a 6-through 9 gearing down ratio so that some vernier tuning action is derived.
In your case, one would typically only be needing 1 :1 ratio inter-coupling, as a mere 90 degree movement of the loop is all that is needed.

Can you examine that situation even closer or even provide some photos of the two interfacing areas involved?



73's de Edd




9/21/2008 2:30:00 PMElliott Swanson
Edd, I emailed you photos of the inside of the GE Radio, which I hope will make what I'm trying to describe clear. I'd post the pics to the list, but I don't think there's any way to do it...
9/30/2008 7:38:57 PMEdd







Using your referencing photos, looks like all that you need to do is pull out some sacrificial twine / cord / string and try the possibilities shown on the stringing.


We can see the dowel behind the loop rotation knob, and one might start with 1 ½ turns around it and then the ends are routed over to the screw eye pivoting points as shown in order to get the cord down below the chassis mounting plate. Down on the bottom side there should be a llike arrangement of screw eyes in order to make a shift in direction again in order to then get the cord coming in at the same plane as the large drums pulley is rotating on. That might also require in the order of either ½ or 1 ½ turns of each end of the cord around the big pulley.

That large loop pulley is only being required to be turned 90 degrees in order to then be able to differentiate in a 180 degrees of resolution of alignment onto distant stations.

Checking the ratios of the circumferences of the two wheels, confirms several turns of the smaller loop tuner knob, being necessary in order to accomplish that rotational range.

The overall tensioning maintained on the cord is made with the formerly "loosey goosey" spring as is shown.


I think that the turns on the dowel behind the loop tuner knob I specified will be adequate to get proper grip, if you try to put too many turns on that portion, since the knob has to turn several turns, it is possible for the cord to “walk “ to the side of the dowel and flop a turn of the cord over on the adjunct turns and lock down further movement in that direction. I think that the 1 ½ turns will be
the happy medium between the two extreme situations.

That’s why I say “ Ya jus gotta try it out”. . . .then seek out its perfect rigging and log it down for future reference, should it be needed.

Have you figured out the antenna connections with the pictorial info supplied, seems like one is a given, with that green plastic wire seeming to have just been clipped. The other 2 connections being a large connector plugging into the large push in connection affixed to the terminal lug . The Fahnestock connector being the other.

Ref Picture:




73's de Edd




10/1/2008 2:42:35 PMElliott
Edd-- thanks so much (agani)! This looks like a winner to me re hooking the drum antenna up. I'm headed out to Baltimore for a few weeks (I live in Washington State) and getting ready to go may delay trying out the hookup until I return. I did pick up some heavy duty upholstry thread which looks like it will handle the job. More upon return. Elliott


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