Forum,
After ignoring other's input, decided to short circuit the polishing/buffing/waxing routine of a Bakelite cabinet, and just go for the finish. Started with a nice bath of lacquer thinner to remove all traces of body oil, dust, grime etc. A couple coats of polyurethane should do the job, but revealed unwanted results. Every obvious pattern/color in the Bakelite was magnified 10 fold, resulting in a fractured cabinet appearance, so I quickly wiped it off with another bath of lacquer thinner. So lacquer must be the only answer. Yes, it worked better than the polyurethane, but still requires extra precaution. Are my results unique, or are there others finding similar results refinishing Bakelite? Next time, I'll do the labor of polishing/waxing!!!

marv

Marv,
I've always gotten great results with a cotton buffing wheel and a mild abrasive stick like jeweler's rouge - and have never resorted to painting or lacquering Bakelite. Of course, you have to take precautions that the wheel doesn't snatch the cabinet out of your hand and break it into a pile of squat on the shop floor........

I have always use NOVUS plastic polish with GREAT results Takes a little elbow grease but the results are more than worth it...I have even expoxied a cracked cabinet back together and crack(s) almost dissapear!!!!:

Marv,
:I've always gotten great results with a cotton buffing wheel and a mild abrasive stick like jeweler's rouge - and have never resorted to painting or lacquering Bakelite. Of course, you have to take precautions that the wheel doesn't snatch the cabinet out of your hand and break it into a pile of squat on the shop floor........

Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive set of a few wheels and red and white sticks of compound. Does a standard Dewalt drill have sufficient RPM to use with these?

:Marv,
:I've always gotten great results with a cotton buffing wheel and a mild abrasive stick like jeweler's rouge - and have never resorted to painting or lacquering Bakelite. Of course, you have to take precautions that the wheel doesn't snatch the cabinet out of your hand and break it into a pile of squat on the shop floor........

I have been using Turtlewax Scratch and swirl remover with good results. Then I follow it with a coating of paste wax. Mark from Kalamazoo

:Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive set of a few wheels and red and white sticks of compound. Does a standard Dewalt drill have sufficient RPM to use with these?
:
::Marv
---------------

Possibly, but I think you need a few more RPM's and a bigger buffing wheel to get the optimum results. A stationary motor frees up both hands to hold the cabinet securely. An old washing machine or furnace blower motor works wonderfully and can usually be had for cheap. You will need a threaded arbor to attach the wheel to the motor's shaft (many hardware stores carry them). Good Luck.

Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive set of a few wheels and red and white sticks of compound. Does a standard Dewalt drill have sufficient RPM to use with these?
:
::Marv,
::I've always gotten great results with a cotton buffing wheel and a mild abrasive stick like jeweler's rouge - and have never resorted to painting or lacquering Bakelite. Of course, you have to take precautions that the wheel doesn't snatch the cabinet out of your hand and break it into a pile of squat on the shop floor........

It looks great with a couple coats of lacquer, and primarily to seal the new Philco logo decal. What would I have used to seal the decal, if I'd only polished and waxed it? The lacquer was easier to apply and look good, but still had some strange effects just after application and during drying.

marv

:Forum,
:After ignoring other's input, decided to short circuit the polishing/buffing/waxing routine of a Bakelite cabinet, and just go for the finish. Started with a nice bath of lacquer thinner to remove all traces of body oil, dust, grime etc. A couple coats of polyurethane should do the job, but revealed unwanted results. Every obvious pattern/color in the Bakelite was magnified 10 fold, resulting in a fractured cabinet appearance, so I quickly wiped it off with another bath of lacquer thinner. So lacquer must be the only answer. Yes, it worked better than the polyurethane, but still requires extra precaution. Are my results unique, or are there others finding similar results refinishing Bakelite? Next time, I'll do the labor of polishing/waxing!!!
:
:marv
:
:

It may sound starnge but I have never had less than spectacular results when buffing with French Polish Reviver.

Frank Goddard Doncaster England

:It looks great with a couple coats of lacquer, and primarily to seal the new Philco logo decal. What would I have used to seal the decal, if I'd only polished and waxed it? The lacquer was easier to apply and look good, but still had some strange effects just after application and during drying.
:
:marv
:
::Forum,
::After ignoring other's input, decided to short circuit the polishing/buffing/waxing routine of a Bakelite cabinet, and just go for the finish. Started with a nice bath of lacquer thinner to remove all traces of body oil, dust, grime etc. A couple coats of polyurethane should do the job, but revealed unwanted results. Every obvious pattern/color in the Bakelite was magnified 10 fold, resulting in a fractured cabinet appearance, so I quickly wiped it off with another bath of lacquer thinner. So lacquer must be the only answer. Yes, it worked better than the polyurethane, but still requires extra precaution. Are my results unique, or are there others finding similar results refinishing Bakelite? Next time, I'll do the labor of polishing/waxing!!!
::
::marv
::
::