I'd like to nondestructively remove the labels from a Silvertone Midget in order to repaint it. Any suggestions how this can be done? I tried steam which only cleaned the label. Acetone had little effect.

John

Hi John, I had some luck soaking them in warm water, one I put in a damp dishwasher over night and it came right off that worked the best. Just make sure the wife knows its in there and doesn't turn the darn thing on. Good Luck, George T.

Thanks, but that didn't work either. I'm starting to think they used a resorcinol glue.

:Hi John, I had some luck soaking them in warm water, one I put in a damp dishwasher over night and it came right off that worked the best. Just make sure the wife knows its in there and doesn't turn the darn thing on. Good Luck, George T.

:Thanks, but that didn't work either. I'm starting to think they used a resorcinol glue.

I remove mine with lacquer thinner. Wet the label, wait 5 minutes, wet again, wait another 5 minutes and use an Olfa blade out of the knife and work slowly giving the blade a 45 degrees angle while rocking the blade under the label -keep the label wet at all time and work in a well ventilated area-. Sandwich the label once removed between two metal plates or glass panes and let dry. Before applying the label to the restored radio, scan for the archives then spray one or two thin coats of satin lacquer (not gloss) to protect the label for years to come. I use Elmer's carpenter glue or a glue pen to reaffix the label to the radio.

Syl

There is a item called GOO GONE sold at Wallmart or other stores that suppose to remove stickers that u put on rear of vehicles. Never really used it myself tho.

I have used cigarette lighter fluid to remove labels from paper where an item has a price sticker on it. The sticker comes off and leaves no residue on the paper.

::Thanks, but that didn't work either. I'm starting to think they used a resorcinol glue.
:
:I remove mine with lacquer thinner. Wet the label, wait 5 minutes, wet again, wait another 5 minutes and use an Olfa blade out of the knife and work slowly giving the blade a 45 degrees angle while rocking the blade under the label -keep the label wet at all time and work in a well ventilated area-. Sandwich the label once removed between two metal plates or glass panes and let dry. Before applying the label to the restored radio, scan for the archives then spray one or two thin coats of satin lacquer (not gloss) to protect the label for years to come. I use Elmer's carpenter glue or a glue pen to reaffix the label to the radio.
:
:Syl

Thanks Syl, the lacquer thinner did the trick. I tried it on the bottom outside sticker which was in bad shape. It didn't hurt it it all. There was still sticky glue on the back after removing it so I didn't dry it between plates. I was afraid it would stick. It came out flat anyhow. Now I feel confident to do the schematic and parts list.

John

:There was still sticky glue on the back after removing it so I didn't dry it between plates. I was afraid it would stick.

Good point. Waxed paper would keep it from sticking but if the label is flat as you experienced, that last step isn't necessary. Glad it worked for you too and thanks for the update.

Dunno if this midget has a metal cabinet, but the one I restored for a friend came out just like an original paint job using Krylon spray paint. Dupli-color (car touch up paint) also works wonder but it is hard to find non-metallic types. I prefer Krylon though being thicker it hides tiny surface scratches on the metal cabinet.

Syl

::There was still sticky glue on the back after removing it so I didn't dry it between plates. I was afraid it would stick.
:
:Good point. Waxed paper would keep it from sticking but if the label is flat as you experienced, that last step isn't necessary. Glad it worked for you too and thanks for the update.
:
:Dunno if this midget has a metal cabinet, but the one I restored for a friend came out just like an original paint job using Krylon spray paint. Dupli-color (car touch up paint) also works wonder but it is hard to find non-metallic types. I prefer Krylon though being thicker it hides tiny surface scratches on the metal cabinet.
:
:Syl

It's metal. It's an 8004 model. I've been thinking about powdercoating it. I've used Krylon on other projects and like it. I guess I could at least try out the color scheme I'm thinking of in Krylon since it's easy to remove.

Maybe this is a sin; the color would be a blue chasis, yellow "Silvertone" logo, and a red dial. Basically Superman colors.

John

:It's metal. It's an 8004 model. I've been thinking about powdercoating it.

mmmm...powder coating...THAT is an idea. If you go ahead I'm interested to see the results. There is a small company in my area offering powder coating. I might be tempted to use it on my next metal cabinet project.

:Maybe this is a sin; the color would be a blue chasis, yellow "Silvertone" logo, and a red dial. Basically Superman colors.

Nah, it is your radio. You can do whatever you want. Besides, it is only a _radio_.

Syl

Hi Johnny, Glad to hear you got the label off. If you ever get one that just won't come off you can always scan and print a copy. I've done that in the past and they come out pretty nice. I had talked to a guy that does powder coating and he did one bakelite radio and said it came out awesome. This guy charges 75 dollars to do one color if they are doing a run of that color. But it cost 150 to have them do a radio with the color of your choice. Powder coating is great if the radio can fetch that kind of money. See Ya

Oh forgot to tell ya if you scan and copy a label it is good to spray a light coat of lacquer over the printing and us a light coat of spray adhesive on the back of the label to stick it to the surface.

:I had talked to a guy that does powder coating and he did one bakelite radio and said it came out awesome.

I'd love to know how he managed to do powder coating on a Bakelite set. It is non-conductive.

Syl

I see your point will have to go by his shop and ask him, very interesting.

John,
Glad you were successful. I'd never tried anything that would wet the label and maybe destroy it. I have used packing tape over the label, trimmed to its edge to salvage the label, then a razor blade scraper under the label to remove it. Salvaged several this way.

marv

:::Thanks, but that didn't work either. I'm starting to think they used a resorcinol glue.
::
::I remove mine with lacquer thinner. Wet the label, wait 5 minutes, wet again, wait another 5 minutes and use an Olfa blade out of the knife and work slowly giving the blade a 45 degrees angle while rocking the blade under the label -keep the label wet at all time and work in a well ventilated area-. Sandwich the label once removed between two metal plates or glass panes and let dry. Before applying the label to the restored radio, scan for the archives then spray one or two thin coats of satin lacquer (not gloss) to protect the label for years to come. I use Elmer's carpenter glue or a glue pen to reaffix the label to the radio.
::
::Syl
:
:Thanks Syl, the lacquer thinner did the trick. I tried it on the bottom outside sticker which was in bad shape. It didn't hurt it it all. There was still sticky glue on the back after removing it so I didn't dry it between plates. I was afraid it would stick. It came out flat anyhow. Now I feel confident to do the schematic and parts list.
:
:John