I stated previously that I am currently electronically restoring a Philco 37-610...(caps..resistors..the usuall) I have been using what I believe to be non-polarized caps for this restoration and previous ones(brand name= IC MPW) ..They do not have any + or - markings on them just the values for example = .1 k630 H 16.. Is it ok to use these through out the radio for smaller values like 1.0 and under?? (for the main caps like 2.0-16mf I know they have to be polarized...
Thanks for your comments
:Hi all..I am still learning..and have been asking allot of question on this MOST HELPFUL SITE!!!
:I stated previously that I am currently electronically restoring a Philco 37-610...(caps..resistors..the usuall) I have been using what I believe to be non-polarized caps for this restoration and previous ones(brand name= IC MPW) ..They do not have any + or - markings on them just the values for example = .1 k630 H 16.. Is it ok to use these through out the radio for smaller values like 1.0 and under?? (for the main caps like 2.0-16mf I know they have to be polarized...
:Thanks for your comments
:
Now you WILL find that filter capacitors in almost ALL radios are typically polarized electrolytic type capacitors.
But that is only because the large capacitance values needed (in the range of 2uf to 12uf for transformer sets and 20uf or even 40uf plus for AC/DC sets) makes it more practical to use an electrolytic cap for it's more reasonable physical size and cost.
One can nowadays quite easily find non-polarized
( Solen brand, for one) capacitors in values of 2uf to 10uf
Remember... a cap of any type will always work ....as long as the value is correct.
However physical size and cost usually dictate the use of the more practical polarized electrolytic type.
GEORGE..sorry you are to late I have radio all back together..before i read your question...look at a schematic
::Hi, are you planning on rebuilding the bakelite blocks? I've recapped and put new resistors in a 37-610. Did a complete restro inside and out. I used a combo of yellow, orange, and a couple safety caps on my set along with a 10 and two 16 mfd electrolytic caps. It plays great just have one problem and that is I have treble and bass but no mid tone. I had a wire that was loose going to the switch but didn't know were to hook it up. One thing I would like to ask you though. On the on/off tone switch, there is a wire that comes off of it and goes to chassis ground the wire is just a few inches long. Could you tell me were it hooks up on the switch and if it is teamed up with another wire. It should hook up on one of two lugs on the side of the switch. Thank You, George.
Sir George T:
On the info needed on the Peeeelco 37-610, and that short wire connection that you mentioned.
In consulting the schematic, it is assuredly the ground connection that is shown connected to the rotor of the tone switch
The photo of the chassis permits one to see that the unit is a rotary control, but no details to whether the unit is built
open style construction or if it is enclosed within a housing , thus precluding examination.
If you consult the enclosed thumbnail, you can see all of the relevant portions of the tone control circuitry placed within
yellow highlighting.
The [A] contact position is of no consequence, as that is a rest position for the conjunctively mechanically
coupled. . . .but totally electrically isolated. . . . power switch, when the set is turned to its off position.
As the tone controls
shaft is rotated CW from its power off position the [B] connection will be grounding out the Capacitive element
of a series R-C high pass filter that is connected to the Loudness Compensation tap of the volume control. That position
will produce the most treble dominant effect that the sets tone control will reproduce. The only treble being
filtered then will be the amount that is being done by the totem pole arrangement of the series .03ufd and .008 ufd units ……..effectively a .006 ufd cap….., that goes from the plate of the 6F6 to ground.
If you now rotate to the [C] position, you will have reinstated the .008 ufd cap into the circuitry of the loudness control circuit
and it will then enhance the bass response of the set when the volume control rotor is used in the proximity of that tap on the volume control.
Loudness Compensation:
The human ears sensitivity is at its greatest at about the 600Hz thru 4,000Hz frequency range, with it down appreciably at the lower bass frequencies, just in case you were wanting to hear some bass on that receiver.
The loudness compensation technique is dependant upon suppressing the highs of the music a bit such that your ear is thinking that the volume is a bit low, so that you will up the volume control setting and thus increase the overall power level such that the lower frequencies now are coming in stronger to your ears, and the perceived bass seems a bit more pronounced.
Fletcher –Munson Chart Ref:
The next position of the tone control would be to the [D] position wherein the .03 ufd cap of the .03 / .008 series pair
is now the only one in circuit and that ups the perceived bass even more.
Soooo if you check out the tone switch, and locate the rotor contact, and confirm its moving to produce closures to the [B] and [D] contact positions, all is well with it. ([C] contact is just a dormant position, where it permits the operation of the loudness compensation effect).
That procedure just might have to be done with an ohmmmeticator, in case the units action is precluded from visual inspection by a housing.
Schematic Thumbnail Reference:
73's de Edd
