Still working on my 1926 Brunswick/Radiola Panatrope. Wondering if anyone knows what finish was used on the cabinet? The walnut veneer is in great shape, but there is a slight faded gray tinge to the finish. I would like to try and save the old finish,instead of replacing it. Thanks.

Henry: I've had good luck with Kramer's antique restorer, but there are others.

Kramer's, like most of them, claim to have a secret formula, handed down from generations. (Thus, the cost.) I suspect that turpentine and linseed oil may be primary ingredients.
Doug

:Still working on my 1926 Brunswick/Radiola Panatrope. Wondering if anyone knows what finish was used on the cabinet? The walnut veneer is in great shape, but there is a slight faded gray tinge to the finish. I would like to try and save the old finish,instead of replacing it. Thanks.

I agree with using the KRAMER's product as I have had a lot of success with it. Don't use the clear blemish remover since it is only for "water rings"/stains. Use the yellow material. Several applications should do it.

Make sure you follow the directions exactly.

For surface scratches, I recommend the Zenith Tibet Almond Stick from www.Rockler.com.

Terry F

DO NOT ... I REPEAT DO NOT USE ANY PRODUCTS THAT HAVE LINSEED OIL....The oil will soak into bare wood and will not come out if you ever want to restore. Also ...linseed oil ..with time ..will get gummy....and then hard leaving a yellowish film/surface.....Also ..dirt will collect on linseed oils surface making radio look worse in the long run. ALSO..there are thos who use products with "Lemmon oil"....Same thing...these products soak into any bare wood and discolor...plus can not be removed...

:Still working on my 1926 Brunswick/Radiola Panatrope. Wondering if anyone knows what finish was used on the cabinet? The walnut veneer is in great shape, but there is a slight faded gray tinge to the finish. I would like to try and save the old finish,instead of replacing it. Thanks.

From that vintage, the finish is probably a "french polish" using shellac (Lacquer came into industrial use in the mid 30's I believe). Your gray tinge is possibly a stain from someone using steel wool on it. Could just be old wax. Shellac is basically flaked cocoon material (from the lac bug) disolved in denatured alcohol. Thus, mineral spirits, which does a nice job removing old wax, should be a fairly safe cleaner to try and remove the gray stain--but try at your own risk, you never know what these old finishes are going to do. If you try cleaning it with denatured alcohol, you will probably remove your original finish. You could try rubbing on a new coat or two of shellac. Shellac disolves itself, so if you want to get any more finish on, you'll have to do a full-blown french polish (which involves adding a lubricant and "spiriting off" the finish at the end). There are many web sites with full descriptions. Its a big job, lots of elbow grease. Probably the safest thing to try would be the retorer products mentioned in your other replies. hope this helps, John.

:Still working on my 1926 Brunswick/Radiola Panatrope. Wondering if anyone knows what finish was used on the cabinet? The walnut veneer is in great shape, but there is a slight faded gray tinge to the finish. I would like to try and save the old finish,instead of replacing it. Thanks.

:Still working on my 1926 Brunswick/Radiola Panatrope. Wondering if anyone knows what finish was used on the cabinet? The walnut veneer is in great shape, but there is a slight faded gray tinge to the finish. I would like to try and save the old finish,instead of replacing it. Thanks.

Henry: I own a 1926 Victor Electrola 9-25 with its original finish in mint condition. I can tell you that it is nitrocellulose lacquer without any doubt. It too is walnut but they applied a step of paste wood filler prior to lacquering to fill in the open pores. I personally refinish about 3 radios monthly using this same technique with excellent results. Lacquers date back to the 1800's and were popular with furniture manufacturers due to their short drying time which lent itself to production schedules. You can apply glazes, tinted fillers, toners, etc. with lacquer as a topcoat and get a final sheen that ranges from dead flat to mirror according to your taste. The oleoresinant finishes including the varnishes, shellacs, and the like tended to yellow over time. By the way, I agree with another responder in that linseed oil DOES NOT EVER DRY. Avoid it at all costs. Good luck.

OK, In general terms, lacquers were invented thousands of years ago in China (earliest were based on tree sap I believe). The "lac" refers to the lac beetle, but modern lacquers of this type are called Shellac. Nitrocellulose lacquers were developed in the early 1920's. They were not widely used in industry until the 1930's. So, it is possible that your finish is either NC lacquer or shellac. By the way, if you ever do use linseed oil, be sure it is "boiled linseed oil"--it has chemical driers that help with the drying problems. hope this helps, John

::Still working on my 1926 Brunswick/Radiola Panatrope. Wondering if anyone knows what finish was used on the cabinet? The walnut veneer is in great shape, but there is a slight faded gray tinge to the finish. I would like to try and save the old finish,instead of replacing it. Thanks.
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:Henry: I own a 1926 Victor Electrola 9-25 with its original finish in mint condition. I can tell you that it is nitrocellulose lacquer without any doubt. It too is walnut but they applied a step of paste wood filler prior to lacquering to fill in the open pores. I personally refinish about 3 radios monthly using this same technique with excellent results. Lacquers date back to the 1800's and were popular with furniture manufacturers due to their short drying time which lent itself to production schedules. You can apply glazes, tinted fillers, toners, etc. with lacquer as a topcoat and get a final sheen that ranges from dead flat to mirror according to your taste. The oleoresinant finishes including the varnishes, shellacs, and the like tended to yellow over time. By the way, I agree with another responder in that linseed oil DOES NOT EVER DRY. Avoid it at all costs. Good luck.