: I have a soldering iron model 105-A1 made by Wassco Glo-melt Div of American Electrical eater Co in Detroit. Looks like late 30's or 40's with a 50 or 15 W output cloth covered cords. Soldering iron head is the question. It has cork insulation with concentric louvers for cooling. the head owever does not heat up. It has two copper looking electrodes coming our of it that almost touch at the end. When lace on a metal objectthe unti conducts and you cn feel a slight vibration like using a weller gun. It looks complete and I can't see how it was used unless it was soldering some kind of resittive material lke nichrome. Any Idesa on what it is or isn't? Thanks DWG
Hi David,
: i cant answer your question, but i found an American Beauty (same company?) Temperature Regulating stand for soldering irons that appears to be about the same age as you say.
: Looking at the nameplate it's cat. # 475 made by American Electrical Heater Company also located in Detroit. It has a bakelite base with a hammertone stand and solid copper tray, adjustment for heat on the bottom, a recepticle for the iron and a gold/black quality woven cloth cord. It's in mint condition and as the name implies "a beauty"..
: I dont even use it, it's too nice.
: Just wondering if you get any responses to your query does anyone have any brief information on the company? The plug appears to indicate just pre or a few years post war style. Just curious, but no big deal . Saw it sitting in a junk shop and couldnt resist!
: Thanks in advance.
: davep.
:
: : I have a soldering iron model 105-A1 made by Wassco Glo-melt Div of American Electrical eater Co in Detroit. Looks like late 30's or 40's with a 50 or 15 W output cloth covered cords. Soldering iron head is the question. It has cork insulation with concentric louvers for cooling. the head owever does not heat up. It has two copper looking electrodes coming our of it that almost touch at the end. When lace on a metal objectthe unti conducts and you cn feel a slight vibration like using a weller gun. It looks complete and I can't see how it was used unless it was soldering some kind of resittive material lke nichrome. Any Idesa on what it is or isn't? Thanks DWG
Because the heat is generated from the resistance in within the contact zone between the two points of the tip, there is little heat generated outside of that contact zone.
If you have ever felt the heat in a wire that has shorted a car battery, this is the same sort of effect.
You will not get a penny very hot, but if you wanted to solder a series of 22 guage wires vertically from one side of the penny; in the manner of a faraday shield; you would use the resistance solderingiron. You could place your wires 1/64 of an inch apart, without disturbing those you have already soldered into place. That was what those units were designed for.
If you want a larger example, take a length of 14 guage copper, and form a "tip" for yor Weller soldering gun- now cut that tip. You can now solder a 1/4 inch wide strip of brass to a large plate of brass merely by placing one side of the cut tip in contact with each side of the two pieces of brass. Your current is flowing only through the fusion zone, you do not have so much about deformation, dislodging other previously soldered items, etc.
It is actually quite ideal for service repair of thin PC boards, as your zoneof heat is concentrated in the area where you want the solder, and no where else.
: ditto with mine doesn't look like it was ever used. Will let ou know if I find out any other information. The interesting thing about this is that I don'g think it generates any heat on it own. Unless these two pins are very resisitive the heat has to come from the target. Until I fidledwith it the tips had no heat marks, now the have a 1/8 inch darkened area which I think came from the target (a penny).:
:
: Hi David,
: : i cant answer your question, but i found an American Beauty (same company?) Temperature Regulating stand for soldering irons that appears to be about the same age as you say.
: : Looking at the nameplate it's cat. # 475 made by American Electrical Heater Company also located in Detroit. It has a bakelite base with a hammertone stand and solid copper tray, adjustment for heat on the bottom, a recepticle for the iron and a gold/black quality woven cloth cord. It's in mint condition and as the name implies "a beauty"..
: : I dont even use it, it's too nice.
: : Just wondering if you get any responses to your query does anyone have any brief information on the company? The plug appears to indicate just pre or a few years post war style. Just curious, but no big deal . Saw it sitting in a junk shop and couldnt resist!
: : Thanks in advance.
: : davep.
:
: :
: : : I have a soldering iron model 105-A1 made by Wassco Glo-melt Div of American Electrical eater Co in Detroit. Looks like late 30's or 40's with a 50 or 15 W output cloth covered cords. Soldering iron head is the question. It has cork insulation with concentric louvers for cooling. the head owever does not heat up. It has two copper looking electrodes coming our of it that almost touch at the end. When lace on a metal objectthe unti conducts and you cn feel a slight vibration like using a weller gun. It looks complete and I can't see how it was used unless it was soldering some kind of resittive material lke nichrome. Any Idesa on what it is or isn't? Thanks DWG
: Because the heat is generated from the resistance in within the contact zone between the two points of the tip, there is little heat generated outside of that contact zone.
: If you have ever felt the heat in a wire that has shorted a car battery, this is the same sort of effect.
: You will not get a penny very hot, but if you wanted to solder a series of 22 guage wires vertically from one side of the penny; in the manner of a faraday shield; you would use the resistance solderingiron. You could place your wires 1/64 of an inch apart, without disturbing those you have already soldered into place. That was what those units were designed for.
: If you want a larger example, take a length of 14 guage copper, and form a "tip" for yor Weller soldering gun- now cut that tip. You can now solder a 1/4 inch wide strip of brass to a large plate of brass merely by placing one side of the cut tip in contact with each side of the two pieces of brass. Your current is flowing only through the fusion zone, you do not have so much about deformation, dislodging other previously soldered items, etc.
: It is actually quite ideal for service repair of thin PC boards, as your zoneof heat is concentrated in the area where you want the solder, and no where else.
:
: : ditto with mine doesn't look like it was ever used. Will let ou know if I find out any other information. The interesting thing about this is that I don'g think it generates any heat on it own. Unless these two pins are very resisitive the heat has to come from the target. Until I fidledwith it the tips had no heat marks, now the have a 1/8 inch darkened area which I think came from the target (a penny).:
: :
: : Hi David,
: : : i cant answer your question, but i found an American Beauty (same company?) Temperature Regulating stand for soldering irons that appears to be about the same age as you say.
: : : Looking at the nameplate it's cat. # 475 made by American Electrical Heater Company also located in Detroit. It has a bakelite base with a hammertone stand and solid copper tray, adjustment for heat on the bottom, a recepticle for the iron and a gold/black quality woven cloth cord. It's in mint condition and as the name implies "a beauty"..
: : : I dont even use it, it's too nice.
: : : Just wondering if you get any responses to your query does anyone have any brief information on the company? The plug appears to indicate just pre or a few years post war style. Just curious, but no big deal . Saw it sitting in a junk shop and couldnt resist!
: : : Thanks in advance.
: : : davep.
: :
: : :
: : : : I have a soldering iron model 105-A1 made by Wassco Glo-melt Div of American Electrical eater Co in Detroit. Looks like late 30's or 40's with a 50 or 15 W output cloth covered cords. Soldering iron head is the question. It has cork insulation with concentric louvers for cooling. the head owever does not heat up. It has two copper looking electrodes coming our of it that almost touch at the end. When lace on a metal objectthe unti conducts and you cn feel a slight vibration like using a weller gun. It looks complete and I can't see how it was used unless it was soldering some kind of resittive material lke nichrome. Any Idesa on what it is or isn't? Thanks DWG
:: Most of the small ones do not have high wattage ratings.
:
:: Because the heat is generated from the resistance in within the contact zone between the two points of the tip, there is little heat generated outside of that contact zone.
:
:: If you have ever felt the heat in a wire that has shorted a car battery, this is the same sort of effect.
:
:: You will not get a penny very hot, but if you wanted to solder a series of 22 guage wires vertically from one side of the penny; in the manner of a faraday shield; you would use the resistance solderingiron. You could place your wires 1/64 of an inch apart, without disturbing those you have already soldered into place. That was what those units were designed for.
:
:: If you want a larger example, take a length of 14 guage copper, and form a "tip" for yor Weller soldering gun- now cut that tip. You can now solder a 1/4 inch wide strip of brass to a large plate of brass merely by placing one side of the cut tip in contact with each side of the two pieces of brass. Your current is flowing only through the fusion zone, you do not have so much about deformation, dislodging other previously soldered items, etc.
:
:: It is actually quite ideal for service repair of thin PC boards, as your zoneof heat is concentrated in the area where you want the solder, and no where else.
:
:
::
:: : ditto with mine doesn't look like it was ever used. Will let ou know if I find out any other information. The interesting thing about this is that I don'g think it generates any heat on it own. Unless these two pins are very resisitive the heat has to come from the target. Until I fidledwith it the tips had no heat marks, now the have a 1/8 inch darkened area which I think came from the target (a penny).:
:
:: :
:: : Hi David,
:: : : i cant answer your question, but i found an American Beauty (same company?) Temperature Regulating stand for soldering irons that appears to be about the same age as you say.
:: : : Looking at the nameplate it's cat. # 475 made by American Electrical Heater Company also located in Detroit. It has a bakelite base with a hammertone stand and solid copper tray, adjustment for heat on the bottom, a recepticle for the iron and a gold/black quality woven cloth cord. It's in mint condition and as the name implies "a beauty"..
:: : : I dont even use it, it's too nice.
:: : : Just wondering if you get any responses to your query does anyone have any brief information on the company? The plug appears to indicate just pre or a few years post war style. Just curious, but no big deal . Saw it sitting in a junk shop and couldnt resist!
:: : : Thanks in advance.
:: : : davep.
:
:: :
:: : :
:: : : : I have a soldering iron model 105-A1 made by Wassco Glo-melt Div of American Electrical eater Co in Detroit. Looks like late 30's or 40's with a 50 or 15 W output cloth covered cords. Soldering iron head is the question. It has cork insulation with concentric louvers for cooling. the head owever does not heat up. It has two copper looking electrodes coming our of it that almost touch at the end. When lace on a metal objectthe unti conducts and you cn feel a slight vibration like using a weller gun. It looks complete and I can't see how it was used unless it was soldering some kind of resittive material lke nichrome. Any Idesa on what it is or isn't? Thanks DWG
:
:
Here is a number from Electronic Industry Telephone Directory, 313-794-2608. There are several other companies with similar names.
Norm
:I'm wondering if anyone can provide me with contact information for a supplier, or for American Electrical Heater Co., for replacement tips for the soldering iron.
:
::: Most of the small ones do not have high wattage ratings.
::
::: Because the heat is generated from the resistance in within the contact zone between the two points of the tip, there is little heat generated outside of that contact zone.
::
::: If you have ever felt the heat in a wire that has shorted a car battery, this is the same sort of effect.
::
::: You will not get a penny very hot, but if you wanted to solder a series of 22 guage wires vertically from one side of the penny; in the manner of a faraday shield; you would use the resistance solderingiron. You could place your wires 1/64 of an inch apart, without disturbing those you have already soldered into place. That was what those units were designed for.
::
::: If you want a larger example, take a length of 14 guage copper, and form a "tip" for yor Weller soldering gun- now cut that tip. You can now solder a 1/4 inch wide strip of brass to a large plate of brass merely by placing one side of the cut tip in contact with each side of the two pieces of brass. Your current is flowing only through the fusion zone, you do not have so much about deformation, dislodging other previously soldered items, etc.
::
::: It is actually quite ideal for service repair of thin PC boards, as your zoneof heat is concentrated in the area where you want the solder, and no where else.
::
::
:::
::: : ditto with mine doesn't look like it was ever used. Will let ou know if I find out any other information. The interesting thing about this is that I don'g think it generates any heat on it own. Unless these two pins are very resisitive the heat has to come from the target. Until I fidledwith it the tips had no heat marks, now the have a 1/8 inch darkened area which I think came from the target (a penny).:
::
::: :
::: : Hi David,
::: : : i cant answer your question, but i found an American Beauty (same company?) Temperature Regulating stand for soldering irons that appears to be about the same age as you say.
::: : : Looking at the nameplate it's cat. # 475 made by American Electrical Heater Company also located in Detroit. It has a bakelite base with a hammertone stand and solid copper tray, adjustment for heat on the bottom, a recepticle for the iron and a gold/black quality woven cloth cord. It's in mint condition and as the name implies "a beauty"..
::: : : I dont even use it, it's too nice.
::: : : Just wondering if you get any responses to your query does anyone have any brief information on the company? The plug appears to indicate just pre or a few years post war style. Just curious, but no big deal . Saw it sitting in a junk shop and couldnt resist!
::: : : Thanks in advance.
::: : : davep.
::
::: :
::: : :
::: : : : I have a soldering iron model 105-A1 made by Wassco Glo-melt Div of American Electrical eater Co in Detroit. Looks like late 30's or 40's with a 50 or 15 W output cloth covered cords. Soldering iron head is the question. It has cork insulation with concentric louvers for cooling. the head owever does not heat up. It has two copper looking electrodes coming our of it that almost touch at the end. When lace on a metal objectthe unti conducts and you cn feel a slight vibration like using a weller gun. It looks complete and I can't see how it was used unless it was soldering some kind of resittive material lke nichrome. Any Idesa on what it is or isn't? Thanks DWG
::
::
: i cant answer your question, but i found an American Beauty (same company?) Temperature Regulating stand for soldering irons that appears to be about the same age as you say.
: Looking at the nameplate it's cat. # 475 made by American Electrical Heater Company also located in Detroit. It has a bakelite base with a hammertone stand and solid copper tray, adjustment for heat on the bottom, a recepticle for the iron and a gold/black quality woven cloth cord. It's in mint condition and as the name implies "a beauty"..
: I dont even use it, it's too nice.
: Just wondering if you get any responses to your query does anyone have any brief information on the company? The plug appears to indicate just pre or a few years post war style. Just curious, but no big deal . Saw it sitting in a junk shop and couldnt resist!
: Thanks in advance.
: davep.
:
: : I have a soldering iron model 105-A1 made by Wassco Glo-melt Div of American Electrical eater Co in Detroit. Looks like late 30's or 40's with a 50 or 15 W output cloth covered cords. Soldering iron head is the question. It has cork insulation with concentric louvers for cooling. the head owever does not heat up. It has two copper looking electrodes coming our of it that almost touch at the end. When lace on a metal objectthe unti conducts and you cn feel a slight vibration like using a weller gun. It looks complete and I can't see how it was used unless it was soldering some kind of resittive material lke nichrome. Any Idesa on what it is or isn't? Thanks DWG
I have an American Beauty soldering tool cat number B2000 without a electric supply cord. The tool and 3 tips are in excelent condition but can not be used without the cord. Where may one obtain such a cord? Any ideas?
It sounds like the unit is in good working condition. Usually you would use that where you need precise application of heat for soldering- such as a brass locomotive.
Essentially, if you do not have a "ground wire", what you would do with the two tips, is place both in contact with a conductive material that you are soldering. In the case where you are soldering a detail part onto a brass locomotive (for example), you would place the detail part in the spot where you are going to attach it, place the two tips in contact with that part, turn on the power, and apply your solder- typically right under the location of where the prods are located.
That type of unit is ideal because your heat is primarily under the tips, and you are not heating the whole piece.
: I have a soldering iron model 105-A1 made by Wassco Glo-melt Div of American Electrical eater Co in Detroit. Looks like late 30's or 40's with a 50 or 15 W output cloth covered cords. Soldering iron head is the question. It has cork insulation with concentric louvers for cooling. the head owever does not heat up. It has two copper looking electrodes coming our of it that almost touch at the end. When lace on a metal objectthe unti conducts and you cn feel a slight vibration like using a weller gun. It looks complete and I can't see how it was used unless it was soldering some kind of resittive material lke nichrome. Any Idesa on what it is or isn't? Thanks DWG