First, so you'll know what I have, the unit is the video (see link below) is VERY close to my "MAGNIFICENT MAGNOVOX" Console!

http://video.aol.com/video-det ... 2195300665

The buttons on the radio tuner in the video are a bit different, BUT the TURNTABLE itself, and the TUBE set up that you see when you take the back panel off the console, is IDENTICAL to mine.

To solve the WOW problem, I tried sanding the edges of the BOTH rubber idler wheels and then re-installed the turntable. Then re-sanded and re-installed again.

I also found that the lubricant at the base of the steel center shaft (proper term?) on the washers and sleeve was black and gunky. So using a cloth i cleaned each part and put a tiny drop of duralube on them (just to test), then re-installed everything. The WOW hasn't changed at all.

So... before going too much further, I'm wondering what each possible factor there is that can cause WOW, besides the idler wheels. I see the product "Re-Grip" Rubber Cleaner & Revitalizer $7.00 - not sure if it really makes old rubber like new?

I guess I'll first need to know the possible problems that can theoretically be the cause of WOW, and then put the problems into some order - and go through each possibility one by one. going after the most likely problem first, etc.

My "Magnificent Magnavox" console is Model Number 2 ST 633 A (not sure if the numbers split up that way, or if they should just run together) and it's "Run 2".I don't have the manual. Thanks to anyone who can help.

:First, so you'll know what I have, the unit is the video (see link below) is VERY close to my "MAGNIFICENT MAGNOVOX" Console!
:
:http://video.aol.com/video-det ... 2195300665
:
:The buttons on the radio tuner in the video are a bit different, BUT the TURNTABLE itself, and the TUBE set up that you see when you take the back panel off the console, is IDENTICAL to mine.
:
:To solve the WOW problem, I tried sanding the edges of the BOTH rubber idler wheels and then re-installed the turntable. Then re-sanded and re-installed again.
:
:I also found that the lubricant at the base of the steel center shaft (proper term?) on the washers and sleeve was black and gunky. So using a cloth i cleaned each part and put a tiny drop of duralube on them (just to test), then re-installed everything. The WOW hasn't changed at all.
:
:So... before going too much further, I'm wondering what each possible factor there is that can cause WOW, besides the idler wheels. I see the product "Re-Grip" Rubber Cleaner & Revitalizer $7.00 - not sure if it really makes old rubber like new?
:
:I guess I'll first need to know the possible problems that can theoretically be the cause of WOW, and then put the problems into some order - and go through each possibility one by one. going after the most likely problem first, etc.
:
:My "Magnificent Magnavox" console is Model Number 2 ST 633 A (not sure if the numbers split up that way, or if they should just run together) and it's "Run 2".I don't have the manual. Thanks to anyone who can help.

Also, there is a Low Frequency HUMMMM for about 3 seconds each time you turn on the turntable and it starts spinning. would that be a Tube or capacitor or ???

thanks again

WOW and flutter , Any lubricant of that vintage is now just road tar..A thorough cleaning of all the turntables parts and linkages are the first order.
Check that the drive motor is OK also. If you sanded the rubber rim driver, you might have slowed/changed the table speed. A new Idler is in order..If the motor has a starting cap -replace. For better advice and tons of expertise in Turntables (Vintage and new)
Please refer to the Audio Asylum..they have both a vinyl section AND a vintage section full of experts to can help.. Good Luck ! ... Adam

It is normal for some phonograph motors to cause a hum in the amplifier when they are first turned on. I doubt that a phono motor has a start-up capacitor, but if it does, of course check its operation and replace if necessary.

-If- the drive wheel on your turntable is of the two part type, that is, a small section on top, and a larger section on the bottom, sanding one without sanding the other will affect the speed. If you sand the small section, you'll slow it down. If you sand the large section, you'll speed it up. If there is any usable rubber on the original wheel, and you wish to sand it, you should put the wheel on a suitable shaft so that it may be spun on a grinding wheel. This will keep rubber removal uniform. Spin the wheel by hand and look for irregularities. Grind the section that seems to be the most irregular, first. Start with the rubber wheel spinning freely with the grinding wheel, with the rubber wheel facing the same direction as the grinding wheel. This will actually remove a slight amount of rubber. Turn the drive wheel ever so slightly to the right or left to remove more rubber. Remove only what you need. Keep the rubber wheel's edge flat against the grinding wheel's edge so that it grinds at a 90 degree angle. After you've finished, fix the speed by removing rubber from whichever part of the drive wheel you didn't grind yet, in small incraments, testing the speed each time. Be sure that the shaft you use (it could be the smooth end of a drill bit, if it is long enough) is oiled with a drop or two of oil, so that no damage is done to the drive wheel bushing. The shaft you choose should fit the drive wheel bushings well. The drive wheel shouldn't be too loose, or else it'll be difficult to grind it true and uniform. When putting the drive wheel back into the phonograph, rub a thin film of oil on the drive wheel's shaft that it rides on when in the phonograph. When testing the drive wheel in the phonograph, be sure that there is NO oil on the rubber surface, on the motor shaft drive surface, or on the turntable drive surface. Clean with alcohol and allow it to dry. Check speed either by strobodisc or by pitch, if you have perfect pitch and know how a song should sound, only after at least 15 minutes of use. Longer is better, because all parts will have expanded and adjusted by then. Turntables with two part idler wheels are more prone to speed changes after they warm up. Double check that there is no oil on the drive surfaces when a speed check is made. When oiling the motor and the drive wheel, it's best to use a stable oil, like 5W-20 or 5W-30. Single weight oils (as they are called....it's misleading) change in viscosity quite a bit as they change in temperature, and thick oils harm good, quick speed in any case. The two oils mentioned above will get your turntable going at the right speed sooner. Another fairly decent oil for phonographs that doesn't seem to slow them down much when cold is 3-in-1 oil.

If you cannot fix the problem and the drive wheel has no usable rubber left, definitely send it in for rebuilding. The cost isn't too much, often around $30. It should last you for many years afterward. www.west-techservices.com is one good option for rebuilding.

T.

thank you Adam

:thank you Adam

It occured to me that any irregular load on the motor - like a trace of rust on the shaft that the idler spins on, could drag on inevitible imperfections on the inside of it's bushing as it turns. If WOW persists, definitely put some attention on making sure all the involved shafts and bushings are not only clear of dried lubricant, but also see about slightly burnishing them to make sure they are free of any "tight spots" that could cause irregular binding. I didn't read this in the other comments and thought it should be mentioned.
Eddie