It's got to be kinda comical (kinda like the keystone kops) following what I'm up to.
I had this set fused (in line and center tap) but it must have been it's time to go. While I was tuning an 18mc signal it just up and fried the 6.3vac windings.
I just replaced a power transformer on a zenith 10S589 and I seemed to have quite a time getting the right one.
This time I'm asking for help from all who would be interested in helping me get it right the first time.
I can't read the HVac numbers on the NA schematic from where I'm at (at work). But the wattage rating on the schematic says 80 + 30. I guess the extra 30 is for the phonograph, but I don't know that.
I remember reading around 345 on a speaker pin, and 290 on another but that's just ballpark figures. When I get home tonight I can find out the HVAC on my 5Y4G.
The 10S589 had two 6X5's and I could rewire that one in a heartbeat, but this one is a little different so any 'which pin to hook it to' info would also be greatly appreciated...
yours truly,
Elmer Fudd (Neal)
:Hello all,
:
:It's got to be kinda comical (kinda like the keystone kops) following what I'm up to.
:
:I had this set fused (in line and center tap) but it must have been it's time to go. While I was tuning an 18mc signal it just up and fried the 6.3vac windings.
:
:I just replaced a power transformer on a zenith 10S589 and I seemed to have quite a time getting the right one.
:
:This time I'm asking for help from all who would be interested in helping me get it right the first time.
:
:I can't read the HVac numbers on the NA schematic from where I'm at (at work). But the wattage rating on the schematic says 80 + 30. I guess the extra 30 is for the phonograph, but I don't know that.
:
:I remember reading around 345 on a speaker pin, and 290 on another but that's just ballpark figures. When I get home tonight I can find out the HVAC on my 5Y4G.
:
:The 10S589 had two 6X5's and I could rewire that one in a heartbeat, but this one is a little different so any 'which pin to hook it to' info would also be greatly appreciated...
:
:yours truly,
:
:Elmer Fudd (Neal)
:5Y4G needs a 5 volt filament voltage of at least 2 amps (pins 7 & 8). 305vac is the plate voltage on pins 3 and 5 with load. Hammond has a calculator guide to help choose the right transformer at: http://www.hammondmfg.com/pdf/5c007.pdf or technical questions can be sent to Mark Mercer: mjm@hammondmfg.com. This one should be easier than your 6X5's.
:Steve
Hey ! you’re not going to have ANY “munny” left for Christmas, if you keep going thru those powering transformers like you seem to have been doing lately, plus you also need to incorporate tandem utilization of fusing along with a smoke alarm.
I remember posting this for a like voltage requirement some time back and all of its parameters still seem to fit that ~300VAC threshold needed, so you might look into the sourcing of these transformers if still in stock and particularly the shipping mode.
Data Repeat:
Many moons ago, on the first time I went to that huge transformer site, I came up with one jammedalltogethgerlongtextfile, PLUS I didn't want print out 60 pages of ~ 600 transformers...sooooo... I transposed that inventory into Excel spreadsheet to achieve fast sorting and selection capabilities.
I plugged your requirements into the file and these units came up, with the priciest case being the top listed NEW ..eets a virgin..transformer at a $26 price and all of the other possible compatibles being below that ….and down to as low as ~$12 Amellican Dollah.
The mounting profile dimensions are being given just before the pricing.
ADDITIONALLY, a unit should meet the weight requirement of the USPS special flat rate box to also save money in that shipping respect:
A knock down Flat Rate [BOX FRB1]is free and only costs $ 8.95 to ship, and is 11" x 8 1/2" x 5 1/2" with a 70# weight limit…WHEEEEE… very good for heavy items.
>http://www.oldradioparts.com/2a23efl.txt
T-formers list:
73's de Edd
Thanks for all the data. What I really need is to improve my soldering skills. I've only been soldering for 35 years now but my right hand shakes a bit (PD). When I got home from work last night I was toying with the idea of disconnecting the shorted 6.3 winding and seeing if I could get it to work off of a separate 6.3ct transformer. I was tracing my filament circuit and the first one I came to had a solder splash shorting it to the tube ground. When I cleared the short my transformer came back to life. It was something just short of a miracle, because I had a 2" diameter transformer wax puddle on my bench and I certainly did hear that frying bacon sound.
But I've been playing it all day and it's not getting hot so I guess I've dodged another bullet.
We're back to the resistor/capacitor issue.
I'd really like to know how that .00025uf got put in where a 50pf should have been. And how a 1k got in place of a 22k. It wasn't so burned up that I had any doubts about the brown and the black. It could have been a 10k or a 100k. I guess it's all a mute issue now. I have the correct values in now.
What I need to fix is how my 18mc signal cuts in and out while I'm aligning it. I can get a strong signal but it drops off suddenly with the slightest tweak of the tweaker. And you can pick and choose which signal you want to hone in on. I've changer out the trimmer allready.
Have a great day and thanks for the transformer info. It will come in handy.
Neal
:
You may want to consider building a dim-bulb device to plug your radios into while testing. It is basically a light bulb (50 to 75 watt or so) in series with the input of the radio. You can use a polarized extension cord, cut the hot side wire and connect into a lamp socket. If the radio has a serious problem the light bulb will burn brightly and limit the current into the radio. If it burns dimly probably no serious problem. It can possibly save an expensive power transformer.
Radiodoc
**************
::Edd,
:
:Thanks for all the data. What I really need is to improve my soldering skills. I've only been soldering for 35 years now but my right hand shakes a bit (PD). When I got home from work last night I was toying with the idea of disconnecting the shorted 6.3 winding and seeing if I could get it to work off of a separate 6.3ct transformer. I was tracing my filament circuit and the first one I came to had a solder splash shorting it to the tube ground. When I cleared the short my transformer came back to life. It was something just short of a miracle, because I had a 2" diameter transformer wax puddle on my bench and I certainly did hear that frying bacon sound.
:
:But I've been playing it all day and it's not getting hot so I guess I've dodged another bullet.
:
:We're back to the resistor/capacitor issue.
:I'd really like to know how that .00025uf got put in where a 50pf should have been. And how a 1k got in place of a 22k. It wasn't so burned up that I had any doubts about the brown and the black. It could have been a 10k or a 100k. I guess it's all a mute issue now. I have the correct values in now.
:
:What I need to fix is how my 18mc signal cuts in and out while I'm aligning it. I can get a strong signal but it drops off suddenly with the slightest tweak of the tweaker. And you can pick and choose which signal you want to hone in on. I've changer out the trimmer allready.
:
:Have a great day and thanks for the transformer info. It will come in handy.
:
:Neal
:
:
:
::
Nom,
:
:You may want to consider building a dim-bulb device to plug your radios into while testing. It is basically a light bulb (50 to 75 watt or so) in series with the input of the radio. You can use a polarized extension cord, cut the hot side wire and connect into a lamp socket. If the radio has a serious problem the light bulb will burn brightly and limit the current into the radio. If it burns dimly probably no serious problem. It can possibly save an expensive power transformer.
:
:Radiodoc
:**************
:
:
:::Edd,
::
::Thanks for all the data. What I really need is to improve my soldering skills. I've only been soldering for 35 years now but my right hand shakes a bit (PD). When I got home from work last night I was toying with the idea of disconnecting the shorted 6.3 winding and seeing if I could get it to work off of a separate 6.3ct transformer. I was tracing my filament circuit and the first one I came to had a solder splash shorting it to the tube ground. When I cleared the short my transformer came back to life. It was something just short of a miracle, because I had a 2" diameter transformer wax puddle on my bench and I certainly did hear that frying bacon sound.
::
::But I've been playing it all day and it's not getting hot so I guess I've dodged another bullet.
::
::We're back to the resistor/capacitor issue.
::I'd really like to know how that .00025uf got put in where a 50pf should have been. And how a 1k got in place of a 22k. It wasn't so burned up that I had any doubts about the brown and the black. It could have been a 10k or a 100k. I guess it's all a mute issue now. I have the correct values in now.
::
::What I need to fix is how my 18mc signal cuts in and out while I'm aligning it. I can get a strong signal but it drops off suddenly with the slightest tweak of the tweaker. And you can pick and choose which signal you want to hone in on. I've changer out the trimmer allready.
::
::Have a great day and thanks for the transformer info. It will come in handy.
::
::Neal
::
::
::
:::