Well I didnt take note of where the red and dual needle pointer is supposed to be reinstalled at so does it matter where exactly the red needle underneath the brass pointer goes? I have no idea what its even used for. So I just pushed it on in no peticular relation to the dual brass station pointer or in relation to the tuning condenser. the brass pointer is sorta easy, just run the tuning condenser to the full extended positin (knifes all the way out of the condenser base)and push the pointer on perfectly horizontal. I also have no clue what "split second" is or means

Sean: Zenith's "split second" tuning added a second tuning needle pointer, usually red, that is used for logging purposes and fine tuning, especially on the SW bands where you don't have a good band spread. The split-second pointer moves more rapidly than the main tuner, making one circuit of the entire dial while the main dial pointer only moves a short distance. My 5-S-29 has a scale on the dial from 0 to 60 which can be used to make very fine tuning adjustments and note tuning positions for various stations on the short wave bands.
Steve

:Yea thats what I thought, but if you removed the pointers, and didnt note where they are supposed to be, is there a specific reinstallation for the red needle? I just pushed it on with no relation to the tuning condenser or the other needle.
:Sean: Zenith's "split second" tuning added a second tuning needle pointer, usually red, that is used for logging purposes and fine tuning, especially on the SW bands where you don't have a good band spread. The split-second pointer moves more rapidly than the main tuner, making one circuit of the entire dial while the main dial pointer only moves a short distance. My 5-S-29 has a scale on the dial from 0 to 60 which can be used to make very fine tuning adjustments and note tuning positions for various stations on the short wave bands.
:Steve
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Beats me. I don't think it matters much for the red pointer. It's an arbitrary pointer anyway. You might put the red on zero (60), when the main pointer is at the beginning of its range. That would be perpendicular to the main dial pointer at the start of the tuning range. Just be careful taking them on and off. Those pointers are difficult to replace. Just note where the main tuning pointer should be when your tuning gang is fully open and fully closed. I think some of the Zenith's may have spring tension on the pointers in the dial casing, so be careful if yours has that. Might be a problem if things fly apart when you don't expect it.
Steve

Agree with Steve - I looked through the aligning data I had and found nothing about a certain position for the split-second dial. It is likely just a gimick for sales - or, at best, a logging scale. On Zenith radios with flywheel-assisted tuning, there is a flat-wound spring on the shaft of the tuning cap to add some zip to the flywheel assist. If you get that deep into disassembly, take good note of the spring's position so you can replace it when reassemblying. There is an adjustable slip ring on the shaft too - DO NOT tighten it too much for it WILL STRIP the gear wheels. Tighten it loosely enough to allow slippage of the drivetrain only when the indicator reaches either end of the tuning scale.

:Wow ok I will have to check to see if its adjusted correctly, because the sprin gear is sorta stripped at both ends. Suprisingly enoug I guess there is just enough of the gear left to still make it work. So I guess somebody got aggressive with it at one time. So I will have to examine it closer to find the "slip clutch"
:Agree with Steve - I looked through the aligning data I had and found nothing about a certain position for the split-second dial. It is likely just a gimick for sales - or, at best, a logging scale. On Zenith radios with flywheel-assisted tuning, there is a flat-wound spring on the shaft of the tuning cap to add some zip to the flywheel assist. If you get that deep into disassembly, take good note of the spring's position so you can replace it when reassemblying. There is an adjustable slip ring on the shaft too - DO NOT tighten it too much for it WILL STRIP the gear wheels. Tighten it loosely enough to allow slippage of the drivetrain only when the indicator reaches either end of the tuning scale.

::Wow ok I will have to check to see if its adjusted correctly, because the sprin gear is sorta stripped at both ends. Suprisingly enoug I guess there is just enough of the gear left to still make it work. So I guess somebody got aggressive with it at one time. So I will have to examine it closer to find the "slip clutch"
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Sean, I had a set that had the slip clutch too tight and it damaged the gears. I was able to disassemble the dial, take the gears off and GENTLY clean up the damaged teeth with a fine jeweler's file (be very careful - try to straighten up the teeth rather than file them down). I then cleaned and lubricated all the gears (and the posts they fit on), After reassembly, I carefully adjusted the screw on the slip clutch to prevent slippage except at the ends of travel (but do allow easy slippage when at the ends of travel). You DO NOT want to get oil or grease on the slip clutch or on the shaft where it fits. The slip clutch looks like a band of shim metal with screw going through one side of it.

:Ok I will see your properly adjusted slip clutch and raise you one slightly singed fore arm. Slip clutch is now adjusted, arm kinda hurts though. Caution: not paying attention to what your doing might get your arm too close to the 6f6 tube.
:::Wow ok I will have to check to see if its adjusted correctly, because the sprin gear is sorta stripped at both ends. Suprisingly enoug I guess there is just enough of the gear left to still make it work. So I guess somebody got aggressive with it at one time. So I will have to examine it closer to find the "slip clutch"
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:Sean, I had a set that had the slip clutch too tight and it damaged the gears. I was able to disassemble the dial, take the gears off and GENTLY clean up the damaged teeth with a fine jeweler's file (be very careful - try to straighten up the teeth rather than file them down). I then cleaned and lubricated all the gears (and the posts they fit on), After reassembly, I carefully adjusted the screw on the slip clutch to prevent slippage except at the ends of travel (but do allow easy slippage when at the ends of travel). You DO NOT want to get oil or grease on the slip clutch or on the shaft where it fits. The slip clutch looks like a band of shim metal with screw going through one side of it.