Home  Resources  References  Tubes  Forums  Links  Support 
Charging a car battery with a power supply
3/3/2008 8:05:26 PMDave Froehlich
Hello All,
I have a 20 amp variable DC power supply. I was using a small commercial battery charger to charge my 6 and 12 volt car batteries. But I seem to have misplaced it. I heard that I could do the same thing but better with my 20 amp power supply. Do I set the voltage to 7 or 7.5 for charging the 6 volt battery? Do I set the power supply to 13 or 14 volts when charging the 12 volt battery? Is it ok to charge the battery this way?

Thanks,

Dave

3/3/2008 8:22:55 PMTonyJ
Not sure about the 6 volt battery, but most vehicle alternators charge the 12 volt battery at about 13.8 volts. I believe you may want to look into limiting the current though so you don't potentially overcharge it.

:Hello All,
: I have a 20 amp variable DC power supply. I was using a small commercial battery charger to charge my 6 and 12 volt car batteries. But I seem to have misplaced it. I heard that I could do the same thing but better with my 20 amp power supply. Do I set the voltage to 7 or 7.5 for charging the 6 volt battery? Do I set the power supply to 13 or 14 volts when charging the 12 volt battery? Is it ok to charge the battery this way?
:
:Thanks,
:
:Dave

3/3/2008 9:17:19 PMThomas Dermody
An automobile charging circuit will supply whatever current is needed. The only thing that tapers off current to the battery in an automobile charging circuit is the battery itself. If you were to short out the battery, the generator would supply full current to the short (and, of course, the battery would probably self distruct because of being shorted).

Proper charging voltage for a 6 volt battery is between 7.0 and 7.7 volts, with 7.4 volts being preferred (according to Delco Remy), and for a 12 volt the range is from about 13.4 to 14.2, with about 13.8 being preferred. Strangely enough the volt meters on modern cars often have 16 volts included in the "normal" range. I'd hardly call 16 volts normal. I also don't understand why cars can't have both voltage and current meters. Why does it always have to be one or the other? Both would be helpful, though with the obsolescence of mechanical voltage regulators, not so necessary.

T.

3/4/2008 4:31:06 AMbills
Dave
it is not as simple as a fixed voltage.
here is a cut and paste of some helpful info.

Battery Charging
Battery charging takes place in 3 basic stages: Bulk, Absorption, and Float.

Bulk Charge - The first stage of 3-stage battery charging. Current is sent to batteries at the maximum safe rate they will accept until voltage rises to near (80-90%) full charge level. Voltages at this stage typically range from 10.5 volts to 15 volts. There is no "correct" voltage for bulk charging, but there may be limits on the maximum current that the battery and/or wiring can take.

Absorption Charge: The 2nd stage of 3-stage battery charging. Voltage remains constant and current gradually tapers off as internal resistance increases during charging. It is during this stage that the charger puts out maximum voltage. Voltages at this stage are typically around 14.2 to 15.5 volts.

Float Charge: The 3rd stage of 3-stage battery charging. After batteries reach full charge, charging voltage is reduced to a lower level (typically 12.8 to 13.2) to reduce gassing and prolong battery life. This is often referred to as a maintenance or trickle charge, since it's main purpose is to keep an already charged battery from discharging. PWM, or "pulse width modulation" accomplishes the same thing. In PWM, the controller or charger senses tiny voltage drops in the battery and sends very short charging cycles (pulses) to the battery. This may occur several hundred times per minute. It is called "pulse width" because the width of the pulses may vary from a few microseconds to several seconds. Note that for long term float service, such as backup power systems that are seldom discharged, the float voltage should be around 13.02 to 13.20 volts.

Chargers: Most garage and consumer (automotive) type battery chargers are bulk charge only, and have little (if any) voltage regulation. They are fine for a quick boost to low batteries, but not to leave on for long periods. Among the regulated chargers, there are the voltage regulated ones, such as Iota Engineering and Todd, which keep a constant regulated voltage on the batteries. If these are set to the correct voltages for your batteries, they will keep the batteries charged without damage. These are sometimes called "taper charge" - as if that is a selling point. What taper charge really means is that as the battery gets charged up, the voltage goes up, so the amps out of the charger goes down. They charge OK, but a charger rated at 20 amps may only be supplying 5 amps when the batteries are 80% charged. To get around this, Statpower (and maybe others?) have come out with "smart", or multi-stage chargers. These use a variable voltage to keep the charging amps much more constant for faster charging.

3/4/2008 4:43:01 AMbills
More info.
A cut and paste from windsun.com

Battery Charging Voltages and Currents:

Most flooded batteries should be charged at no more than the "C/8" rate for any sustained period. "C/8" is the battery capacity at the 20-hour rate divided by 8. For a 220 AH battery, this would equal 26 Amps. Gelled cells should be charged at no more than the C/20 rate, or 5% of their amp-hour capacity. The Concorde AGM batteries are a special case - the can be charged at up the the Cx4 rate, or 400% of the capacity for the bulk charge cycle. However, since very few battery cables can take that much current, we don't recommend you try this at home. To avoid cable overheating, you should stick to C/4 or less.

Charging at 15.5 volts will give you a 100% charge on Lead-Acid batteries. Once the charging voltage reaches 2.583 volts per cell, charging should stop or be reduced to a trickle charge. Note that flooded batteries MUST bubble (gas) somewhat to insure a full charge, and to mix the electrolyte. Float voltage for Lead-Acid batteries should be about 2.15 to 2.23 volts per cell, or about 12.9-13.4 volts for a 12 volt battery. At higher temperatures (over 85 degrees F) this should be reduced to about 2.10 volts per cell.

3/4/2008 1:26:59 PMThomas Dermody
Actually automobile charging circuits maintain a very steady voltage to the battery. Mechanical type regulators would feed a bit more to the battery when cold, since a cold battery requires more voltage to charge than a warm one. I am not sure if modern voltage regulators do this or not. I know that in my car the bulbs start out a bit on the bright side when it's cold outside, and then they dim down to normal brilliance. My original mechanical type regulator was not to be adjusted until after at least 15 minutes of use because of this. Its temperature had to be normalized.

T.



© 1989-2025, Nostalgia Air